Piston Slap - Oil suggestions

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Mockers

Mockers

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You have a block heater so don't get why did you would not put it on a timer to come one a few hours before first engine start up of the day? When I lived in the cold Midwest I always parked my both wife's car an my truck in a garage and I still put both block heaters on a timer during the winter time...
Garage is heated so don’t need to plug it in.
 

raptors_67

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I have had the issue you are describing in my 2014 1500 since 170,000KM about 5 years ago, cylinder number 1 presumably a wrist pin issue or slightly collapsed piston, not piston slap (slap would change or disappear after warmup). Odometer just rolled past 334,*** last week. I have been running 10W-40 for the last year or so with 0 problems. Makes a slight difference in the loudness. I have a new engine sitting on the engine stand waiting for this one to die but at this rate I'll be changing it before this motor gives up i'm sure. I've towed a 9,000lb RV with this motor for the entire duration I have owned the truck and it still keeps running. The "slapping" sound does go away once past about 1500rpm but it's quite loud at idle.
 

Gary Fields

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Been using 5W-30 for last 2 years. Makes motor quieter to start and idle. Don't see any real difference in performance. I guess I'm old but still believe 20 weight is too thing for a motor in a Texas summer. Back in the 80's and 90's it was 10W-40 and 20W-50 and never had an oil problem.
 

Trashy2121

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Narrow down the problem before opting for a new engine. Let the truck cool and try to wiggle the exhaust manifold bolts. If any are loose then you have an exhaust leak. If those aren't bad, check for a ruined cam or lifter failure. Compression test will show cam failure if you have 1 or more cylinders that build compression slower than the rest. Last, pull the valve covers and wiggle the rocker arms up and down, not side to side. If you have a real loose rocker then you have a failed lifter. These tests will only cost you a couple of hours in the driveway, $30 for fresh valve cover seals and rental on a compression test kit.
 

inuyasha-rules

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Been using 5W-30 for last 2 years.

Back in the 80's and 90's it was 10W-40 and 20W-50 and never had an oil problem.
I've been running mobile 1 euro 0w40 for a year and a half. Oil pressure is 60-65psi cold, and 50 warm, no mds problems and it's a bit quieter than 5w20. I was worried about cold weather, but it was fine all the way down to -35 in the winter.
 

nascar72

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Hi all, New to the forum and looking for advise.

2014 Ram 1500 - 138,000km.

I have the hemi tick. its louder at cold start and gets quieter as it warms up. Dealer confirmed it is not exhaust manifolds or lifters/cam. but is bottom end so potentially bad wrist pin / piston slap. They said not repairable and needs a new motor.

I have read that if it is piston slap the engine could still be ok for years. not sure if this is true.

question, I see some changed their oil to Redline 5w 30 or 0w 30 which quiets their engines. dealer told me to only use 5w 20 otherwise I would get an error code on the dash from the MDS?

would changing to redline 5w 30 or 0w 30 help the piston slap and not throw and error code?
Have had 2 hemis so far. One was my '03 1500 and my actual '08 2500 and noticed both having piston slapping dissappearing as engine warms up...and NO it is NOT my exhaust manifolds leaking just to be clear. In my '03 1500 I ran 5w30 synthetic in wintertime and 10w30 synthetic in summertime. Bought it at 150k and sold it at 210k without any issues. My 2500 I bought it back in '21 with 112k and now up to 167k run on 5w30 PUP with Wix XP filter year round. Oil changed every 8k. Used to be a GM guy as GM v6s fwd cars will start producing piston slapping as early as 30k in many cases. And guess what...never had any issues either. Just don't beat the crap out of it on cold starts untill it reaches normal op temps, try not to go past 8-10k on oil changes and filters and you'll be just fine.
 

Mr300

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I know from experience that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum will stop the piston slap
I was using Quaker State High Mileage in My 2015 with 168,000 miles
Cold start piston slap every morning. Lasted about 3 seconds then nothing the rest of the day.
Last 3 oil changes were Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
Zero piston slap for 9 months now.
Quietest 5.7 you will ever hear.
 
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Question on compression testing. remove coil packs, remove 1 of the 2 spark plugs, remove fuel pump fuse install compression test kit, open throttle body and crank for 10 seconds. am I missing anything else?
 
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Wild one

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Question on compression testing. remove coil packs, remove 1 of the 2 spark plugs, remove fuel pump fuse install compression test kit, open throttle body and crank for 10 seconds. am I missing anything else?
Pull the starter relay and jump it instead.You don't have to worry about anything getting power like coil packs if you jump the starter relay,as the key stays off,bonus is everything can be done under the hood.
 
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Mockers

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I was using a stethoscope to hear all over the engine. when I put it on the drivers side next to each of the 4 coil packs I can hear the ticking. could this be noise from the rocker arms on that side?
 

Wild one

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I was using a stethoscope to hear all over the engine. when I put it on the drivers side next to each of the 4 coil packs I can hear the ticking. could this be noise from the rocker arms on that side?
Could also be injectors as they tick
 

Ken226

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Pull the starter relay and jump it instead.You don't have to worry about anything getting power like coil packs if you jump the starter relay,as the key stays off,bonus is everything can be done under the hood.

Awhile back I bought some of these cheap relays on Amazon for 7$


I gutted one, soldered some wires to the pins on the inside and filled it with epoxy. The other end connects to a momentary switch in a 3d printed handle. It's a little much when I could do the same thing with a paperclip, but it works well and the wires are long enough that I can use it from anywhere around the engine bay.IMG_20250321_162300997.jpg

Though, the cheap parts store type crimp-on terminals are the same size as the relay terminals, so it would work about as well to just crimp terminals to the end the wires, and plug the terminals into the correct slots.
 

Wild one

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Awhile back I bought some of these cheap relays on Amazon for 7$


I gutted one, soldered some wires to the pins on the inside and filled it with epoxy. The other end connects to a momentary switch in a 3d printed handle. It's a little much when I could do the same thing with a paperclip, but it works well and the wires are long enough that I can use it from anywhere around the engine bay.View attachment 563297

Though, the cheap parts store type crimp-on terminals are the same size as the relay terminals, so it would work about as well to just crimp terminals to the end the wires, and plug the terminals into the correct slots.
Check out post #26 Ken. I've even got a few modded relays for kicking in the fans when i'm at the track,lol

 

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Ken226

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Check out post #26 Ken. I've even got a few modded relays for kicking in the fans when i'm at the track,lol


Yea, it's pretty handy for checking compression, amongst other things. I'll have to browse the garage forum more often, that's the first time i've seen that tools thread.
 

Hardracer

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Ha!...never heard of codes being thrown from oil viscosty but I guess anythings possible...
Im not believing that.
Is there an actual code for thicker oil?maybe something down the line that would be effected by thicker oil?variable solenoid thingy?...
I just went brain dead again and I even had that item changed...dammit,friggin CRS again.
 
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