Please help

[Atcer2018]

Not to get in the middle of any disagreements but by the OP original comment his no crank condition started after plugs, wires and battery. Bad/wrong plugs and wires won’t stop the engine from turning over but the battery will. Maybe the battery was hooked up backwards and something fried but we don’t know from the information given. The battery is the first place to start and work out from there.

 

[mikeru]

Fine, educate me

How would plugs or ignition coils prevent an engine from turning over?

No need to get defensive. Obviously those items alone wouldn't cause a no crank condition. But we don't know what else he may have done while changing those things.

Mike can defend his own statements...But take a hard look at the OP. There are so many bits of information missing that there is LITERALLY no telling WHAT he's done to get the no-start, and that list can be endless. For all we know, he could have poured gasoline down the intake to prime it, and hydro-locked the damn thing....Yea, ridiculous, but again, take a look at the OP.

Thanks Scott, you nailed it. The OP mentioned doing work on several things. We obviously didn't see any of it, and have no way of knowing if he affected something he didn't mention. All we can do is go off his symptoms and what he said he did. I'm still waiting to hear back from him on what he found when he checked the fuses/relays.

 

[timbo6723]

Fine, educate me

How would plugs or ignition coils prevent an engine from turning over?

I replaced all of those things... it was turning over before I replaced all of that. It stopped turning over when I replaced the battery and ignition coils, plugs and wires

 

[timbo6723]

Not to get in the middle of any disagreements but by the OP original comment his no crank condition started after plugs, wires and battery. Bad/wrong plugs and wires won’t stop the engine from turning over but the battery will. Maybe the battery was hooked up backwards and something fried but we don’t know from the so that's,information given. The battery is the first place to start and work out from there.

Omg, you think the battery maybe hooked up backwards? First off they aren't, because the negative won't even reach the positive terminal, so that's silly.

 

[timbo6723]

Not to get in the middle of any disagreements but by the OP original comment his no crank condition started after plugs, wires and battery. Bad/wrong plugs and wires won’t stop the engine from turning over but the battery will. Maybe the battery was hooked up backwards and something fried but we don’t know from the information given. The battery is the first place to start and work out from there.

It started and had a code for a bad coil. Not knowing how to pick which one, you replaced them all and the battery. What a can of worms.... It was starting, now it isn't. Work backwards - Is new battery defective? Possible, but not probable. Are your connections correct? Why did you disconnect the MAF? Tell me you didn't leave the plastic caps on the battery posts when you put the cables on.....

No caps, lol. Unplugged the MAP to remove the throttle body cover to access the 7 and 8 piston coils

 

[timbo6723]

my statement was "the only thing on the list" (and that is the list of things the OP told us he had replaced) that can make a truck not turn over is the battery"

i guess, following youre reasoning, the OP could have decided to put in taller sparkplugs to make sure the spark reaches all the way down to the bottom of the cylinder, and now it acts as a TDC stop...that is about the only way i can see an item on that list that is not the battery stopping the engine from turning over, but that would be grasping at straws

Not longer plugs

 

[timbo6723]

Did you check the battery connections? If they are loose that could cause your issue.

They are tight

 

[timbo6723]

Yes

No need to get defensive. Obviously those items alone wouldn't cause a no crank condition. But we don't know what else he may have done while changing those things.
.

Thanks Scott, you nailed it. The OP mentioned doing work on several things. We obviously didn't see any of it, and have no way of knowing if he affected something he didn't mention. All we can do is go off his symptoms and what he said he did. I'm still waiting to hear back from him on what he found when he checked the fuses/relays.

I have no multimeter at the moment. Those relays shouldn't have any continuity right?

 

[timbo6723]

No need to get defensive. Obviously those items alone wouldn't cause a no crank condition. But we don't know what else he may have done while changing those things.


Thanks Scott, you nailed it. The OP mentioned doing work on several things. We obviously didn't see any of it, and have no way of knowing if he affected something he didn't mention. All we can do is go off his symptoms and what he said he did. I'm still waiting to hear back from him on what he found when he checked the fuses/relays.

No multimeter at the moment.

 

[fitteenhundred]

Timbo. Do yourself a favor and take the battery to get tested before you go any deeper into it. I know it's new but it wouldn't be the first time.

 

[Wild one]

Is the truck actually in park,and did you try to boost it?

 

[timbo6723]

Timbo. Do yourself a favor and take the battery to get tested before you go any deeper into it. I know it's new but it wouldn't be the first time.

True, this is new replacement. It's a 4 year free replacement battery, not prorated

 

[timbo6723]

Grab yourself a voltmeter and tell us what the battery read across the terminals

It might be as simple as a dead battery

(I'd suggest jumping it, but im guessing it's parked face first into a garage)

It's in my friend's yard

 

[timbo6723]

Is the truck actually in park,and did you try to boost it?

It's in park. Haven't tried to boost

 

[timbo6723]

Starter motor trigger wire all intact and making solid connection?

Yep

 

[diymirage]

It's in my friend's yard

so you can drive another vehicle up to it and try to jump start it?

that would be my first move

 

[Evarelamen]

My name is Tim. I own a 2010 ram 1500 quad ST, 4.7 liter. Engine light came on so I took it to autozone and got a bad ignition coil, but they failed to tell me the exact cylinder. So, I have replaced them all, along with all 16 plugs and wires. I replaced the battery as well. All new. Now the engine will not even turn over. We heard click in and around the fuse block. So could there be a fuse or relay bad?? We have tapped on the starter but still nothing. Could it be the fuse to the starter solenoid? Or maybe one of the 3 ASD relays? Aby suggestions? I would hugely appreciate the insight. Thank you and have a blessed day.

you said you replaced the plugs. I assume spark plugs, if so, did you gap them to the specified gap to your vehicle? I had this issue on a vehicle back then and this was the verdict.

 

[Hagar1]

My name is Tim. I own a 2010 ram 1500 quad ST, 4.7 liter. Engine light came on so I took it to autozone and got a bad ignition coil, but they failed to tell me the exact cylinder. So, I have replaced them all, along with all 16 plugs and wires. I replaced the battery as well. All new. Now the engine will not even turn over. We heard click in and around the fuse block. So could there be a fuse or relay bad?? We have tapped on the starter but still nothing. Could it be the fuse to the starter solenoid? Or maybe one of the 3 ASD relays? Aby suggestions? I would hugely appreciate the insight. Thank you and have a blessed day.

Did you clean the battery cable ends? They can get a build up of corrosion. Over the years I've seen that problem catch a lot of people.

 

[truck2014]

When vehicles don't crank ,its almost always the battery . He cranks one day ,replaces the battery ,no crank. I think all this suspense could end with at least a jump start to see . Or take a simple voltmeter , and see what the battery reads , or a load test .

Not trying to raise the ire of the OP , but end the suspense here ,and check that battery .

 

[Marshall]

Re. meters, if you are on Ohms, and put your probes across 12v , you will cook the meter or blow the fuse in the meter if it has one. better to use DC Volt . AC is for house voltage.

Better to use the meter to follow voltage from battery that should show over 12.4 volt sitting and about 14v with motor running. Easy way is to check for 12 volt at the starter when some one hits the key, or use long leads on the meter so you can see it when you try to start.

Battery check is first thing, just because its new , don't mean its good.
If you have another battery in something , switch it and try again.