Question about 35s

[jgruberman]

I've heard several people with the bilsteins and a 1/4" or 10 mm spacer running 35s with no rub . It's a bit of a stuffed wheel well look but it seems to work .
If bills maxed out ( top ring @ +2.8" ) makes your front too high just install a .75"-1.0" coil spacer in the back to achieve level

I would put them all around to keep the height proportionate, or more so than only the fronts being installed.

 

[R.L.K.]

I would put them all around to keep the height proportionate, or more so than only the fronts being installed.

Bilsteins in the back provide no lift .

To adjust lift in the back to suffice a more accurate level it's spacers above the coil springs or air bags inside the coils to my knowledge.

 

[jgruberman]

Bilsteins in the back provide no lift .

To adjust lift in the back to suffice a more accurate level it's spacers above the coil springs or air bags inside the coils to my knowledge.

So then when I put them in the front and they are maxed at 2.8... Is that 2.8" lift?

 

[R.L.K.]

So then when I put them in the front and they are maxed at 2.8... Is that 2.8" lift?

Yes ! I got 2.75" out of mine , people say they settle , mine hasn't in over 6000 miles .
These bilstein 5100s do provide lift to the front , and are primarily used to level your truck .
These 4th gen Rams typically have 2-3 inches of rake ( ass end high )

Bilstein does make shocks for the rear and a good shock imo , but they don't lift the rear .
Hope this helps !

 

[jgruberman]

Yes ! I got 2.75" out of mine , people say the settle , mine hasn't in over 6000 miles .
These bilstein 5100s do provide lift to the front , and are primarily used to level your truck .
These 4th gen Rams typically have 2-3 inches of rake ( ass end high )

Bilstein does make sons for the rear and a good shock imo , but they don't lift the rear .
Hope this helps !

Yes, thank you... That helps. I think I will do some 2" coil spacers in the back to keep some rake because I know the rake is good for MPG.

 

[jgruberman]

Also where are you guys getting these 5100 adjustables for $120-$150 a pair? Everywhere I call they are $130 EACH!!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WO15F4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AN.MwbHK7PNRR

 

[R.L.K.]

I've notice ZERO diff in my mpgs with my bills @ +2.8 and no spacers in the back . This was a concern of mine as well , even with long road trips on the interstate I've noticed no mpg change and I watch my mpgs like a hawk . Nothing wrong with spacers in the back , I'm actually thinking of installing 1.0"spacers so when I'm pulling my boat I'm still level .

 

[jgruberman]

I've notice ZERO diff in my mpgs with my bills @ +2.8 and no spacers in the back . This was a concern of mine as well , even with long road trips on the interstate I've noticed no mpg change and I watch my mpgs like a hawk . Nothing wrong with spacers in the back , I'm actually thinking of installing 1.0"spacers so when I'm pulling my boat I'm still level .

What size tires?

 

[R.L.K.]

I have stockers

 

[jgruberman]

I have stockers

Got a pic of the height with stock tires? Would love to see...

 

[R.L.K.]

If you want to install bilsteins, I recommend to watch this , it's not super informative but gets you the info you need . Pretty simple job 4 out of 10 imo if your a DIY er

Go to post #1 to see the video


http://www.ramforum.com/showthread.php?t=73602

Watch "How to install a lift kit on a 2014 RAM 1500 4x4 (Bilstein 5100 - front)" on Y

 

[jgruberman]

Thank you.. Looks good. I wonder how it would look with 33s

 

[R.L.K.]

Looks great with 33s , you can fit 35s with with a 10 mm wheel spacer on stock rims with no rubbing . The 35s look a bit stuffed imo.
I've heard some say they didn't require the 10 mm spacer .

 

[jgruberman]

Right. But to the point of someone earlier saying it affected MPG... Which I'm sure it does... No wonder if 33s has a lesser decrease on MPG

 

[R.L.K.]

Right. But to the point of someone earlier saying it affected MPG... Which I'm sure it does... No wonder if 33s has a lesser decrease on MPG

Mpgs will most definitely be effected!

BUT the amount is ABSOLUTELY based on your driving style and terrain.

For instance I live in the mountains of Tn. I average 20 mpg evic / 19 hand calculated for all around driving , I have a buddy who has the same truck as I do he gets 16 mpg on a good day !
He and I swapped vehicles for three days he got 15.2mpg avg in my truck I got 21.3 mpg in his we both drove aprox 350 miles in the same terrain .

Driving style goes a long way , me I drive like a blue haired granny on Sunday . My buddy drives like he's late everyday ( he will never drive my truck again lol)

Another variable some people do not take into consideration is larger diameter tires go further with each full revolution ; therfore, the odometer is inaccurate because it is calibrated for 31.5" stock tires not 33, 34 , 35+" tires

 

[R.L.K.]

Right. But to the point of someone earlier saying it affected MPG... Which I'm sure it does... No wonder if 33s has a lesser decrease on MPG

Me personally, I'd probably only loose 3mpg or less with 35s ( driving style )
The thing that kills the mpgs is the weight @ the hub .
The power it takes to get the extra weight turning initially cost you mpgs & the extra power it takes to increase speed at any given speed also cost you mpgs .
With that said , it only takes a few pounds at the hub to see a difference. So when choosing aftermarket wheels and larger tires consider this . The wheels (aluminum or steel) weighs more than the added rubber . So for weight @ the hub a 17-18" wheel will save weight verses a 20+" wheel . In return you get a little better mpg and more low end tq. and more acceleration power for passing .

If you plan on lifting your truck in the future keep in mind some lift kits recommend an 18" or larger wheel due to their aftermarket steering knuckles and such may rub on a smaller diameter wheel .
I want 17 " wheels , but I'll likely go with 18s because I will be lifting my truck .

Hope this helps!

 

[jgruberman]

Me personally, I'd probably only loose 3mpg or less with 35s ( driving style )
The thing that kills the mpgs is the weight @ the hub .
The power it takes to get the extra weight turning initially cost you mpgs & the extra power it takes to increase speed at any given speed also cost you mpgs .
With that said , it only takes a few pounds at the hub to see a difference. So when choosing aftermarket wheels and larger tires consider this . The wheels (aluminum or steel) weighs more than the added rubber . So for weight @ the hub a 17-18" wheel will save weight verses a 20+" wheel . In return you get a little better mpg and more low end tq. and more acceleration power for passing .

If you plan on lifting your truck in the future keep in mind some lift kits recommend an 18" or larger wheel due to their aftermarket steering knuckles and such may rub on a smaller diameter wheel .
I want 17 " wheels , but I'll likely go with 18s because I will be lifting my truck .

Hope this helps!

I'm going to keep the stock wheels for now, and perhaps in the future when I upgrade wheels (after tires are done), I'll consider a very light set of wheels to offset the weight of the larger tires.

I'm moving soon closer to work which will save me 120 miles daily... I'll wait until after I move to start these upgrades

 

[xrsman]

I used one route that I frequent to determine my mpg loss. I went from 24 mpg US before the lift and tires to about 20 mpg, give it take 0.5 mpg.

I drive pretty efficiently, 90 kmh on cruise.

Always count on losing more so you're not disappointed when you see the drop.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

 

[M4GN1F1C3NT]

It wont fit if your running 35s on a stock OEM wheel bc the tire wall with rub the control arm and you would need to cut the fender walls which not many ppl would be willing to do. But if you run and aftermarket wheels with an agressive offset you would be able to fit without using wheel spacers which are bad for your wheel hub. All from personal experience with same issue

 

[jgruberman]

It wont fit if your running 35s on a stock OEM wheel bc the tire wall with rub the control arm and you would need to cut the fender walls which not many ppl would be willing to do. But if you run and aftermarket wheels with an agressive offset you would be able to fit without using wheel spacers which are bad for your wheel hub. All from personal experience with same issue

Define "aggressive" offset? I don't have a huge amount of experience with offsets and that aspect of wheels. I would like to go without spacers if possible since I had spacers on my old truck and they caused me nothing but problems...