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[Moparornocar0346]

So started raining my area today. Rained really hard. So I was sitting at an idle and it started to spit and sputter and sounded like a jet plane it was sucking so much air threw the intake. Ok well threw it in park it idled up drove it to the store threw it in park again and don’t the same exact thing. I noticed as I was driving it, it really seemed sluggish. No codes or something. New map sensor so far. Any ideas at all?


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[Shadow_Death]

So started raining my area today. Rained really hard. So I was sitting at an idle and it started to spit and sputter and sounded like a jet plane it was sucking so much air threw the intake. Ok well threw it in park it idled up drove it to the store threw it in park again and don’t the same exact thing. I noticed as I was driving it, it really seemed sluggish. No codes or something. New map sensor so far. Any ideas at all?


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Have you replaced your TPS, if so where did you get it? I had similar issues. Mine missfired so bad it was undrivable. So I replaced it. Also when was the last time you did a tune-up? A cracked distributor cap can do the same thing.

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[Fast69Mopar]

When you said it sounded like a jet sucking air through the intake, what you are hearing is the idle air control motor going to the maximum steps and allowing as much air to enter the throttle body and engine to keep it running. With your year model, when I see a complaint from a customer like yours that started when it was raining, the first thing I check for is the age of the plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. If the cap is just the slightest bit cracked in any location it can allow moisture to enter the distributor and cause erratic spark. I also check for any vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and I check the intake manifolds valley pan to see if its pushed out and causing a leak too.

To check the intake manifolds valley pan gasket, remove the breather hose from the air cleaner housing that is on the right side of the engine. One end is connected to the air cleaner assembly on that is mounted on top of the throttle body and the other end is connected to the valve cover. Once you remove the breather hose, place your thumb over the end of it and hold it for a few seconds and then remove your thumb. If you hear a loud vacuum being pulled down the breather hose you can assume the valley pan gasket is pushed out and leaking. There will always be a small amount of vacuum on this breather hose but you will recognize what I am talking about. If you hold your thumb over the hose for 10 seconds and just start to feel a vacuum being pulled against your thumb then the gasket is in decent shape. If its pushed out in any spot you will feel a large vacuum being pulled against your thumb.

I would do these small things first before spending money on any parts. Do a little bit of diagnostics and dont shoot from the hip.

 

[Moparornocar0346]

When you said it sounded like a jet sucking air through the intake, what you are hearing is the idle air control motor going to the maximum steps and allowing as much air to enter the throttle body and engine to keep it running. With your year model, when I see a complaint from a customer like yours that started when it was raining, the first thing I check for is the age of the plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. If the cap is just the slightest bit cracked in any location it can allow moisture to enter the distributor and cause erratic spark. I also check for any vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and I check the intake manifolds valley pan to see if its pushed out and causing a leak too.

To check the intake manifolds valley pan gasket, remove the breather hose from the air cleaner housing that is on the right side of the engine. One end is connected to the air cleaner assembly on that is mounted on top of the throttle body and the other end is connected to the valve cover. Once you remove the breather hose, place your thumb over the end of it and hold it for a few seconds and then remove your thumb. If you hear a loud vacuum being pulled down the breather hose you can assume the valley pan gasket is pushed out and leaking. There will always be a small amount of vacuum on this breather hose but you will recognize what I am talking about. If you hold your thumb over the hose for 10 seconds and just start to feel a vacuum being pulled against your thumb then the gasket is in decent shape. If its pushed out in any spot you will feel a large vacuum being pulled against your thumb.

I would do these small things first before spending money on any parts. Do a little bit of diagnostics and dont shoot from the hip.

Well I just done the Hughes pan and gaskets a few months ago. Imma check my cap and rotor first to see what it looks like. It don’t this once before but it didn’t do it as bad. This time it actually died and when I started it back it was fine.


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[Fast69Mopar]

Good for you using the Hughes setup on the intake. It is a quality piece and I have had such good luck with their products over the years. Definitely take a moment to inspect the wires, cap and rotor for any signs of breaking down. There is one other thing I would do since you said it felt sluggish while driving. I missed this part in your OP about it feeling sluggish. I was a little tired. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the fuel rail and see what you get for fuel pressure by turning the key on (do not start) and then monitor the fuel pressure after you start the engine. Your fuel pressure should be 49psi +/- 5 psi.

 

[Moparornocar0346]

Good for you using the Hughes setup on the intake. It is a quality piece and I have had such good luck with their products over the years. Definitely take a moment to inspect the wires, cap and rotor for any signs of breaking down. There is one other thing I would do since you said it felt sluggish while driving. I missed this part in your OP about it feeling sluggish. I was a little tired. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the fuel rail and see what you get for fuel pressure by turning the key on (do not start) and then monitor the fuel pressure after you start the engine. Your fuel pressure should be 49psi +/- 5 psi.

Ok will do this evening. Will keep u posted what the results r. Thanks for ur help man appreciate it


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[Fast69Mopar]

Excellent. Take your time and you will find the culprit. Post back what you find.

 

[Moparornocar0346]

Excellent. Take your time and you will find the culprit. Post back what you find.

Hey man could u take a look at this for me and tell me what u think




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[SportRam00]

I notice a couple of things... Your fuel trims are way lean (-24% total fuel trim... not good should be under 5-10% total) and your MAP reading is low. I think the MAP should read around 18-20" HG at idle. I noticed you just replace your MAP in your 1st post. Did the problem happen before or after you replaced that sensor?

How are your O2 sensors reading? Are they fluctuating at all between <.5v and 1v? If too much fuel is getting past it, it will lean the engine out. This could be caused by leaking fuel injectors.

I would do a fuel pressure test as noted above to make sure you don't have a leaking injector. If you clamp the hose of the fuel pressure tester to pinch off the hose between the fuel pump and the tester gauge this should allow you to see how well the fuel rail and injectors hold pressure (with the engine off of course). The fuel rail/injectors should hold operating pressure for a few minutes at least. If you notice the pressure is bleeding off, you might have a sticky injector or two.

You can rent a fuel test rig at your local parts store.

 

[Moparornocar0346]

I notice a couple of things... Your fuel trims are way lean (-24% total fuel trim... not good should be under 5-10% total) and your MAP reading is low. I think the MAP should read around 18-20" HG at idle. I noticed you just replace your MAP in your 1st post. Did the problem happen before or after you replaced that sensor?

How are your O2 sensors reading? Are they fluctuating at all between <.5v and 1v? If too much fuel is getting past it, it will lean the engine out. This could be caused by leaking fuel injectors.

I would do a fuel pressure test as noted above to make sure you don't have a leaking injector. If you clamp the hose of the fuel pressure tester to pinch off the hose between the fuel pump and the tester gauge this should allow you to see how well the fuel rail and injectors hold pressure (with the engine off of course). The fuel rail/injectors should hold operating pressure for a few minutes at least. If you notice the pressure is bleeding off, you might have a sticky injector or two.

You can rent a fuel test rig at your local parts store.

The problem was before I replaced the map. Both of my o2 r in the negative reAdings.


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[Moparornocar0346]

I notice a couple of things... Your fuel trims are way lean (-24% total fuel trim... not good should be under 5-10% total) and your MAP reading is low. I think the MAP should read around 18-20" HG at idle. I noticed you just replace your MAP in your 1st post. Did the problem happen before or after you replaced that sensor?

How are your O2 sensors reading? Are they fluctuating at all between <.5v and 1v? If too much fuel is getting past it, it will lean the engine out. This could be caused by leaking fuel injectors.

I would do a fuel pressure test as noted above to make sure you don't have a leaking injector. If you clamp the hose of the fuel pressure tester to pinch off the hose between the fuel pump and the tester gauge this should allow you to see how well the fuel rail and injectors hold pressure (with the engine off of course). The fuel rail/injectors should hold operating pressure for a few minutes at least. If you notice the pressure is bleeding off, you might have a sticky injector or two.

You can rent a fuel test rig at your local parts store.

And also I did do a plenum job a few months back but I didn’t have the funds to replace the o2s I’d say they ain’t working as they should from being fouled from the oil


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[SportRam00]

Was it consuming oil through the plenum? If so that would also create problems with oil fouling the upstream O2 and possibly your spark plugs. If your scanner does live data, you should see the upstream/pre-cat O2 sensor moving between <.5v to 1v. The downstream/post cat 02 should not fluctuate as much because that one just monitors your cat efficiency. If your upstream O2 is staying flat and it's coated with oil, I would replace it. May as well do both at that point.

However, as was stated earlier I would test your fuel pressures also, just to be certain your injectors are working properly. Good O2 sensors can run a couple of bucks. I think the recommend brand of O2 is either Desno or NGK. If I recall, I don't think Bosch are recommended and our trucks can be picky about them. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me, or you could just do a search around here and find out.

Might be a good idea pull your spark plugs and check to see if they are oil fouled.

Its tempting to start throwing parts at a problem, but run a few tests before spending your hard earned $ on parts.

 

[SportRam00]

Oh and since you replaced the MAP, I would double check the tiny rubber elbow the connects it to the TB to make sure it seated properly and not cracked. The 18-20" HG reading is at sea level BTW... It won't read as high if you're at a higher elevation.

 

[Moparornocar0346]

Oh and since you replaced the MAP, I would double check the tiny rubber elbow the connects it to the TB to make sure it seated properly and not cracked. The 18-20" HG reading is at sea level BTW... It won't read as high if you're at a higher elevation.

Right i replaced the elbow as well when I done the map lol


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