Regearing..

[Derek Powers]

Thought about going from 4.10 to 4.56. Moes has all parts to do both diffs for about $1,000. Problem is I am having trouble finding someone to install "my" parts. Yet they are quoting me about $3500. Seems a little steep. What's everyone else paying?

 

[Mountaineer83]

I have been quoted $2300 including taxes for 4.88 here in WV. And that includes the parts and labor.

 

[mtofell]

I also got quoted around $2300. I don't think you want anything to do with bringing in parts. You are then responsible for correct/completeness. If I remember right the rear is pretty straightforward but there is some confusion/difficulty or special parts for the front that can make the job a bit difficult.

 

[GsRAM]

Wow, 2300 , all in for both diffs is a great price!

I usually figure 1500/axle to have that done.

Also, I don't know what tires the op is running, but going from the 10s to the 56s may not be a big enough difference for the cost, you may want to go to 4.88s. Stock tires the 56s are a good choice

 

[Mountaineer83]

I was shocked at the price honestly. They quoted me $150 higher for AAM 5.13 front and back. I'm just afraid to go that low with only 34" tires. I did check a couple different shops, but thos guy has solid 5 star reviews. He is a driveline specialist.

 

[G. Mcpherson]

Check out C&M Gear for F & Rr Sets. AAM for my 4.10's plus Bearing kits was 842.00. Found a shop install 1300.00.

 

[Derek Powers]

Through Moe's I can get both sets plus complete installation kits for around $1000 which I'm fine with. It's the $2500 in labor that I'm not.

I'm running 295/65/20

 

[Tumbleweed]

I've had quite a bit of work done on my Jeep at Drive Train Specialists, DTS. They have 2 locations. https://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/
I highly recommend them.

 

[crash68]

I've had quite a bit of work done on my Jeep at Drive Train Specialists, DTS. They have 2 locations. https://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/
I highly recommend them.

My buddy had a custom built axle for his van from FTS on Groesbeck many years ago. The axle looked like came from the factory, he put over 100K miles on it.

 

[Ratket]

4:10”s to 4:56....

You might as well just light that cash on fire. Do your self a favor- and run the numbers through a gear calculator for the 4:10”s and the 4:56 gears. The change is so minimal that you likely wouldn’t notice it let alone pick up any performance. I recommend 4.88 or 5.13”s.

 

[FlatbedHemi]

I was told by my installers that 5.13s would require a new carrier for the front axel. Thats why I went 4.88s. I dont regret a thing.

 

[68PowerWagon]

I was told by my installers that 5.13s would require a new carrier for the front axel. Thats why I went 4.88s. I dont regret a thing.

Flatbed did you move up in tire size too? I am now starting to question if I should go with the 4.88's over the 4.56's. I am staying with stock tire size but tow heavy.

 

[McBroom]

Flatbed did you move up in tire size too? I am now starting to question if I should go with the 4.88's over the 4.56's. I am staying with stock tire size but tow heavy.

Stick with the 4.56 gears it'll be best for your application.

Blue Mule

 

[FlatbedHemi]

Flatbed did you move up in tire size too? I am now starting to question if I should go with the 4.88's over the 4.56's. I am staying with stock tire size but tow heavy.

I went up to a 34" tire before the swap. Factory tires are around 33", so it wasnt much of an increase. I actually think that my truck would like more RPM because it seems to cruise easier at 75 than 70. Thinking that 5.13s might have been a better choice, but they required a different carrier so I didnt go that low. In any case, I think you would be fine with the stock tires on 4.88s.

 

[Mountaineer83]

I have 4.10 as well and have 34" tires as opposed to the factory 33.5" tires. I am going at 4.88 because I tow heavy.

The 4.56 isn't going to give you enough of a difference to justify the cost in my opinion. Try driving your truck with 5th gear selected on the +/- button. This will simulate driving with the 5.13 gears. The 4.88 set will be about 100-150 rpm lower so you can get an idea of what you would be looking at.

Ultimately, it is your decision and a big one at that. I've read, re-read, posted, calculated, cried tears of frustration, re-calculated and drove my gear guy crazy over 4.88 vs 5.13. It's a big chunk of change so make sure you get exactly what fits your needs and what will make you happy.


Btw, I'm in WV, so the terrain makes me need and want the lower gearing. In Georgia and Florida, I was content with my 4.10s pulling my 5th wheel. It is about 14k lbs loaded and rolling just for a comparison.

 

[FlatbedHemi]

I have 4.10 as well and have 34" tires as opposed to the factory 33.5" tires. I am going at 4.88 because I tow heavy.

The 4.56 isn't going to give you enough of a difference to justify the cost in my opinion. Try driving your truck with 5th gear selected on the +/- button. This will simulate driving with the 5.13 gears. The 4.88 set will be about 100-150 rpm lower so you can get an idea of what you would be looking at.

Ultimately, it is your decision and a big one at that. I've read, re-read, posted, calculated, cried tears of frustration, re-calculated and drove my gear guy crazy over 4.88 vs 5.13. It's a big chunk of change so make sure you get exactly what fits your needs and what will make you happy.


Btw, I'm in WV, so the terrain makes me need and want the lower gearing. In Georgia and Florida, I was content with my 4.10s pulling my 5th wheel. It is about 14k lbs loaded and rolling just for a comparison.

FWIW, my gear guy told me that 5.13s would require a new carrier in the front, which ups the cost. Thats why I went 4.88 instead of 5.13.

 

[Mountaineer83]

That definitely makes a difference! I'm pretty set on 4.88. Just got about $200 more to save. I've traded so many cars since I have been married, I'm banned from expensive upgrades unless I save the money up. Plus she makes double my salary, guess she can win that battle!

 

[GsRAM]

That definitely makes a difference! I'm pretty set on 4.88. Just got about $200 more to save. I've traded so many cars since I have been married, I'm banned from expensive upgrades unless I save the money up. Plus she makes double my salary, guess she can win that battle!

Lol! No question, man! Happy wife, happy life!

 

[GsRAM]

Good info on the gears guys. I plan on keeping my truck 10+ years so at some point I may go down this road. I don't tow heavy or often and I have stock tires and no plans to go bigger, but I know those steeper gears would greatly improve the overall drivability of my truck, even unloaded, empty.

I believe at 74 I'm around 1800 or so rpm in 6th, so I'm not sure how much rpm increase I'd have, probably 2200 at least I'm thinking, still not very high for a hemi

 

[68PowerWagon]

I was told by my installers that 5.13s would require a new carrier for the front axel. Thats why I went 4.88s. I dont regret a thing.

I am getting a little nervous about my installer. He is stating that I will need a new carrier for the front axle with the 4.56's? From what I have read on here that isn't correct. This place has done a lot of gear swaps & have been in business for over 50 years but I am still getting worried.