Replace Cam and Lifters or New/Reman Engine?

[lonelyowl7]

Hi, I have a 2012 Ram 2500 with 230k miles, that had a pretty bad ticking and some codes: P0306 P0456 P0300 P1524.

I decided to immediately pull the valve cover rather than swapping coils or anything, I knew the manifolds had been recently replaced, so I knew it wasn't that. Pulled the passenger valve cover and cylinder 6 intake pushrod was bent pretty bad(picture). The exhaust pushrod/rocker is also pretty loose.

I then pulled off the intake manifold and pulled the vvt solenoid to check if there was metal, and there was a small amount of metal(picture).

I'm looking for advice on whether I should just replace the lifters, cam, pushrod, etc. or replace the engine with a new/reman engine; and where a good place to get an engine would be? I see powertrain products has reman ones for $4k and lowest I could find from a Mopar site is $5,600 for a ram.

I've heard the way dodge/ram decides is if there is any metal in the vvt solenoid screen, but also seen people on forums say it's fine, just do a couple frequent oil changes.

Also, the one code P1524, says it has to do with low oil pressure, and the engine has 230k miles, so is it worth just replacing the cam and lifters if it possible oil pressure problems, and has high mileage.

Any input would be great, thanks!

 

[04fxdwgi]

If deciding to do a major repair (cam, lifters and associated parts and gaskets) on an engine with metal particles floating around in it, low oil pressure and 230k miles, unless you are planning on a complete rebuild on the old one to replace the 230k mile rings, pistons, bearings and do a valve job, would almost 100% jump on the reman engine.

In the long run, the reman may be cheaper with a warranty.

 

[Wild one]

Hi, I have a 2012 Ram 2500 with 230k miles, that had a pretty bad ticking and some codes: P0306 P0456 P0300 P1524.

I decided to immediately pull the valve cover rather than swapping coils or anything, I knew the manifolds had been recently replaced, so I knew it wasn't that. Pulled the passenger valve cover and cylinder 6 intake pushrod was bent pretty bad(picture). The exhaust pushrod/rocker is also pretty loose.

I then pulled off the intake manifold and pulled the vvt solenoid to check if there was metal, and there was a small amount of metal(picture).

I'm looking for advice on whether I should just replace the lifters, cam, pushrod, etc. or replace the engine with a new/reman engine; and where a good place to get an engine would be? I see powertrain products has reman ones for $4k and lowest I could find from a Mopar site is $5,600 for a ram.

I've heard the way dodge/ram decides is if there is any metal in the vvt solenoid screen, but also seen people on forums say it's fine, just do a couple frequent oil changes.

Also, the one code P1524, says it has to do with low oil pressure, and the engine has 230k miles, so is it worth just replacing the cam and lifters if it possible oil pressure problems, and has high mileage.

Any input would be great, thanks!

Those are some pretty big chunks of metal on the VVT screen,i'd replace the engine,especially if it has 230K on it.
I agree with 04,the reman might be your cheaper option in the long run

 

[lonelyowl7]

If deciding to do a major repair (cam, lifters and associated parts and gaskets) on an engine with metal particles floating around in it, low oil pressure and 230k miles, unless you are planning on a complete rebuild on the old one to replace the 230k mile rings, pistons, bearings and do a valve job, would almost 100% jump on the reman engine.

In the long run, the reman may be cheaper with a warranty.

Those are some pretty big chunks of metal on the VVT screen,i'd replace the engine,especially if it has 230K on it.
I agree with 04,the reman might be your cheaper option in the long run

Thanks for the replies!

That's what I'm leaning towards, a reman/new engine.

Do you guys have any recommendations on where to source one?

I was researching the powertrain products place, they seemed to have good reviews, but then I found a bunch of complaints saying they're pretty bad when trying to get warrantied if there's problems with the engine.

There's jasper, but seemed like on the forums, people either love them or hate them, and I think they were more expensive than the Mopar one I found.

Also, what components should I replace when replacing the long block?

It looks like dodge recommends if there was a "catastrophic engine failure" to replace the intake manifold. Would this be considered under that?

Thanks again for the help!!

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for the replies!

That's what I'm leaning towards, a reman/new engine.

Do you guys have any recommendations on where to source one?

I was researching the powertrain products place, they seemed to have good reviews, but then I found a bunch of complaints saying they're pretty bad when trying to get warrantied if there's problems with the engine.

There's jasper, but seemed like on the forums, people either love them or hate them, and I think they were more expensive than the Mopar one I found.

Also, what components should I replace when replacing the long block?

It looks like dodge recommends if there was a "catastrophic engine failure" to replace the intake manifold. Would this be considered under that?

Thanks again for the help!!

A cam usually doesn't require an intake manifold replacement.It's usually if a piston lets go they want you replace the intake. Have you looked on your local market place etc,for a low milege take out engine,i know here i can usually find a take out engine that's either new or very low milege,like with less then 600 miles on one.

 

[Wild one]

Hi, I have a 2012 Ram 2500 with 230k miles, that had a pretty bad ticking and some codes: P0306 P0456 P0300 P1524.

I decided to immediately pull the valve cover rather than swapping coils or anything, I knew the manifolds had been recently replaced, so I knew it wasn't that. Pulled the passenger valve cover and cylinder 6 intake pushrod was bent pretty bad(picture). The exhaust pushrod/rocker is also pretty loose.

I then pulled off the intake manifold and pulled the vvt solenoid to check if there was metal, and there was a small amount of metal(picture).

I'm looking for advice on whether I should just replace the lifters, cam, pushrod, etc. or replace the engine with a new/reman engine; and where a good place to get an engine would be? I see powertrain products has reman ones for $4k and lowest I could find from a Mopar site is $5,600 for a ram.

I've heard the way dodge/ram decides is if there is any metal in the vvt solenoid screen, but also seen people on forums say it's fine, just do a couple frequent oil changes.

Also, the one code P1524, says it has to do with low oil pressure, and the engine has 230k miles, so is it worth just replacing the cam and lifters if it possible oil pressure problems, and has high mileage.

Any input would be great, thanks!

MMX sells new OEM crate engines that are a complete drop-in

5.7L HEMI TRUCK Crate Engine

5.7L HEMI TRUCK Crate Engine

www.modernmusclextreme.com

 

[Marshall]

I think you will find bent valves in there , so would need heads done as well,
I have never bought a reman. so have no option on that .
If you like the truck don't cheap out on crap.

 

[Dusty]

You could replace the valve train components and still have a low oil pressure problem unless you go for a pump and all new bearings (assuming the crank isn't damaged). Then again, what bent that push rod that badly?

Close inspection may find other things that will cause loss of sleep unless they are addressed.

If you have access to a GOOD local engine rebuilder, that might be an option. People I know have not had good luck with Jasper.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 118490 miles.

 

[lonelyowl7]

Thanks for all the input!

I came across a forum post on another forum about swapping to a 6.4, and how it was relatively simple. So I may be going that route.

A 6.4 long block from Mopar is actually cheaper than the 5.7, but with the 6.4 I have to get it tuned so the 6.4 runs good so it's going to cost only a little more. But this being a work truck, it would be good to have some extra grunt.

And yea I'm pretty much set on its not worth just replacing the cam and lifters, when there is most likely more damage inside the motor.

Just curious, what do yall think the bent pushrod is from? A lifter siezing in a high position, or cam being ground down so the pushrod modeled to somewhere lower than where it sits in the rocker arm and hit that? How would it have hit the piston?

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for all the input!

I came across a forum post on another forum about swapping to a 6.4, and how it was relatively simple. So I may be going that route.

A 6.4 long block from Mopar is actually cheaper than the 5.7, but with the 6.4 I have to get it tuned so the 6.4 runs good so it's going to cost only a little more. But this being a work truck, it would be good to have some extra grunt.

And yea I'm pretty much set on its not worth just replacing the cam and lifters, when there is most likely more damage inside the motor.

Just curious, what do yall think the bent pushrod is from? A lifter siezing in a high position, or cam being ground down so the pushrod modeled to somewhere lower than where it sits in the rocker arm and hit that? How would it have hit the piston?

If the cams ground down enough or the lifter broke,the pushrod could of fell out of place,and then bent on the next lifter rotation

 

[SDFireman]

I have a 2011 Dodge 2500 with 5.7 that developed a major tick. Exhaust manifolds replaced years ago. 150k miles. I am interested in the 6.4 swap but not up for experimenting. Need to get the truck on the road. I do not have the ability to do it myself. Here is the question- is the 6.4 conversion documented well enough to do it? If not, who is the reman company of choice? Thanks.

 

[stevenP]

Going to a 6.4 might open up another can of worms. Tranny mounting, and engine accessories might not the same. Getting a ecm tuned, these days might not be legal as the vehicle will no longer conform to its OEM emissions. Last time I looked dodge had their own crate engines that were pretty reasonable too.

 

[Ken226]

The Mopar MDS deleted 5.7 Hemi long block from MMX is a pretty decent deal, compared to Jasper.

Getting an engine with known good NEW OEM brand lifters and cam has a lot to recommend itself and is worth some extra money. Before you order a reman engine from Jasper or the like, call them up and ask what brand of cam and lifters they use, and whether they are NEW or used.. I bet the answer, or lack thereof, will help with your decision.

I'm not sure what a remanufactured engine from Jasper costs, but i doubt it's much cheaper than this:

5.7L HEMI NON-MDS Truck Engine Long Block

5.7L HEMI NON-MDS Truck Engine Long Block

www.modernmusclextreme.com

 

[Wild one]

Going to a 6.4 might open up another can of worms. Tranny mounting, and engine accessories might not the same. Getting a ecm tuned, these days might not be legal as the vehicle will no longer conform to its OEM emissions. Last time I looked dodge had their won crate engines that were pretty reasonable too.

It's a direct swap,you reuse the 5.7 timing cover oil pan/oil pick-up tube etc,and it's a bolt in,will require tuning though. I don't think emissions testing can tell what size the engine is.
A 5.7 and 6.4 are identical as far as external dimensions go,internally the 6.4 is bigger.
A few guys who've done the 6.4 truck engine swap are getting noticable better milege,even the guys doing the higher compression car 6.4 swap are reporting better milege numbers,only downside is the higher compression car 6.4 requires at a min 91 octane fuel,and is even happier if you feed them 93 or 94 octane,while the truck 6.4 will live all day long on 87

 

[KansasArt]

Is 93 or 94 octane available at regular gas stations? Locally I can get 91 all day long.

 

[Wild one]

Is 93 or 94 octane available at regular gas stations? Locally I can get 91 all day long.

It's not hard to get either 93 or 94 where i am.I ran the wifes 6.4 Challenger on 94,and it was happier on it,then it was on 91

 

[Ken226]

Seems relevant

Why Jasper Engines Are Junk

Here at #WiggysGarage we tell it how it is no sugarcoating! Why Jasper Engines and Transmissions are Junk: A Mechanic's Revelation🚨 **Wiggy's Garage Speaks...

youtube.com

 

[Hagar1]

Hi, I have a 2012 Ram 2500 with 230k miles, that had a pretty bad ticking and some codes: P0306 P0456 P0300 P1524.

I decided to immediately pull the valve cover rather than swapping coils or anything, I knew the manifolds had been recently replaced, so I knew it wasn't that. Pulled the passenger valve cover and cylinder 6 intake pushrod was bent pretty bad(picture). The exhaust pushrod/rocker is also pretty loose.

I then pulled off the intake manifold and pulled the vvt solenoid to check if there was metal, and there was a small amount of metal(picture).

I'm looking for advice on whether I should just replace the lifters, cam, pushrod, etc. or replace the engine with a new/reman engine; and where a good place to get an engine would be? I see powertrain products has reman ones for $4k and lowest I could find from a Mopar site is $5,600 for a ram.

I've heard the way dodge/ram decides is if there is any metal in the vvt solenoid screen, but also seen people on forums say it's fine, just do a couple frequent oil changes.

Also, the one code P1524, says it has to do with low oil pressure, and the engine has 230k miles, so is it worth just replacing the cam and lifters if it possible oil pressure problems, and has high mileage.

Any input would be great, thanks!

If there is significant metal in the VVT solenoid, a reman engine might be the best route to take.
Having said that, I tore down an engine that didn't have any metal in that solenoid despite the total absence of one cam lobe. So it is sort of a crap shoot.
IF you go with the cam, lifters and associated parts you need to make sure that all the oil galleries are clean ............. those metal particles went someplace. Take a close look at the oil gallery where the front main bolt goes through when you have the oil pump off.

 

[EdGs]

Why do alot of people join and post for help, then just disappear?

It really doesn't take much to make a simple post to follow up on an issue.