Shorties / LTs

[Pull Ya]

Where are you located...

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Just east of Austin Tx
Jay

 

[daveray9]

I'm in MA as well and from what I've heard if you get long tubes you may not pass smog, even if you put cats on. They look for the factory cats.

I'm looking at headers as well but am likely going to go with JBA silver ceramic shorties to be safe.

Let me know where you end up getting your shorties... Im shopping around now. I figure with the MA inspections .. LTs arent worth the risk. I just posted this for everyone else opinion.

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[seabrook]

When mine breaks I’m going t do Jeep srt8 manifolds- they area an exact replacement for our manifold plus they r cheap

 

[Buddy]

On Hookers website their shorty headers for our trucks look like stock manifold but in stainless steel. They would eliminate any future bolt issues over stock, but I wonder if there would be even 5 hp with them?? Doubt it. Probably easiest to change out over all aftermarket headers, they are like logs, no tubes all over. At least they are kinda cheap too. Guess just for bolt issues with these.

 

[RLJ10X]

Give Matt @ Moe's a call. That's what I did. I think I got JBAs in stainless. My dealership put them on.

Shortys were the right choice for me. I don't race. They're simple and realitivly inexpensive. I'll never have a broken bolt/leaky manifold. They'll pass any inspection anywhere. My truck can be sold in any state. +8HP, I'll take that!

 

[daveray9]

Give Matt @ Moe's a call. That's what I did. I think I got JBAs in stainless. My dealership put them on.

Shortys were the right choice for me. I don't race. They're simple and realitivly inexpensive. I'll never have a broken bolt/leaky manifold. They'll pass any inspection anywhere. My truck can be sold in any state. +8HP, I'll take that!

And didn't bother with the ceramic coating like everyone is talking about? How are they holding up?
I'm all about simple, and just don't wanna deal with the bolts again, I plan on keeping the truck for another 100k (she is only at 80k now)

 

[RLJ10X]

Dave, I didn't do ceramic coating.

I went out in the garage a minute ago. The Headers are hard to see, and impossible to get a good iPhone photo from above. The front pipe is a smooth even light brown, probably from the heat. On some of the others, they're still pretty silver. I think they're about a year and a half old.

I'd buy them again. Matt will treat you right.

 

[joshuaeb09]

On Hookers website their shorty headers for our trucks look like stock manifold but in stainless steel. They would eliminate any future bolt issues over stock, but I wonder if there would be even 5 hp with them?? Doubt it. Probably easiest to change out over all aftermarket headers, they are like logs, no tubes all over. At least they are kinda cheap too. Guess just for bolt issues with these.

They actually don't look too bad for a basic tubular manifold and should at-least flow a little better than stock without snapping bolts. This might be exactly what people like my father are looking for staying within the foot print of the stock logs without the warping issues.

 

[Gary's Hemi]

When mine breaks I’m going t do Jeep srt8 manifolds- they area an exact replacement for our manifold plus they r cheap

The Jeep SRT manifolds do bolt up to the heads but dont line up with the y pipe. The y pipe will need to be reworked to line up with the SRT manifolds. Not horrible but not an exact replacement

 

[slacadjuster]

Depends if you actually want any noticeable performance gains. My understanding is that the vast majority of people that put shorties on looking for gains regret not going LTs.

I've got JBA LT and have no issues with brake line proximity. Lines can always be wrapped and/or pushed out of the way. I think I've only seen one, MAYBE two people on here that were concerned with brake line proximity, but were able to figure something out.

What's the difference between LT headers and shorties??

 

[Wild one]

What's the difference between LT headers and shorties??

LT stands for "long tube" header,differance is the length of the headers primary tubes

 

[Gary's Hemi]

A good, lengthy but good video on how each style header works. Watch videos on scavenging & choose what you want based off that & your budget & you application(meaning what is the truck used for & what are you goals)

 

[Ram04]

Very hard to find any real good info on headers any more. Everyone talks about LT vs shorty and no one talks about What size Primary pipes the headers are!

LT vs shorty;

Put the Correct shorty's on and you will increase performance > the Wrong size LT's!

Dial in the correct LT's and you will have max gains right where you want them according to your build goals.

Street/ tow vehicle

Wkd warrior

All out Race truck.

This illustration is the simplest explanation of the difference in header designs.

If your truck is a daily driver and you want to improve its drivability with added low end TQ plus added HP you would be looking for a shorty with 1 1/2" primary's and no greater than 1 5/8". Any larger than that and you will begin to lose bottom end as the primary size begins to move the power curve up and beyond your normal operating window.

I believe the best header Period, would be LT's with the first 8" 1 1/2" then 1 5/8 the rest of the way. This for a non internally modded 5.7l daily driver/ tow vehicle.

Since those are not available, 1 5/8" LT's would be the next best thing for over all performance gains on a stock longblock 5.7l. (Original MP LT's are 1 5/8") 1 3/4" will work, but are already to large and you will get more gain higher up where they will be of seldom good use. 1 7/8 are All out 600+HP Race headers and should only be used for larger displacement engines, supercharged applications or highly modded (Cam/Heads/ect) engines.

Should also mention that anything larger than 2 1/2" midpipes will again, move the powerband higher and rob valuable TQ where you need it most.

So when asking what header to run, you really need to ask yourself what you want to use your truck for?

Once you've answered that Q, then choosing the correct set of headers becomes easier.

With all of the larger LT's out there, it's getting harder to find a good set of LT's for a daily driver, so the 1 5/8" shorty's or 1 1/2" if you can find them are the better choice

 

[seabrook]

The Jeep SRT manifolds do bolt up to the heads but dont line up with the y pipe. The y pipe will need to be reworked to line up with the SRT manifolds. Not horrible but not an exact replacement

Ohhh ok

 

[daveray9]

Very hard to find any real good info on headers any more. Everyone talks about LT vs shorty and no one talks about What size Primary pipes the headers are!

LT vs shorty;

Put the Correct shorty's on and you will increase performance > the Wrong size LT's!

Dial in the correct LT's and you will have max gains right where you want them according to your build goals.

Street/ tow vehicle

Wkd warrior

All out Race truck.

This illustration is the simplest explanation of the difference in header designs.

If your truck is a daily driver and you want to improve its drivability with added low end TQ plus added HP you would be looking for a shorty with 1 1/2" primary's and no greater than 1 5/8". Any larger than that and you will begin to lose bottom end as the primary size begins to move the power curve up and beyond your normal operating window.

I believe the best header Period, would be LT's with the first 8" 1 1/2" then 1 5/8 the rest of the way. This for a non internally modded 5.7l daily driver/ tow vehicle.

Since those are not available, 1 5/8" LT's would be the next best thing for over all performance gains on a stock longblock 5.7l. (Original MP LT's are 1 5/8") 1 3/4" will work, but are already to large and you will get more gain higher up where they will be of seldom good use. 1 7/8 are All out 600+HP Race headers and should only be used for larger displacement engines, supercharged applications or highly modded (Cam/Heads/ect) engines.

Should also mention that anything larger than 2 1/2" midpipes will again, move the powerband higher and rob valuable TQ where you need it most.

So when asking what header to run, you really need to ask yourself what you want to use your truck for?

Once you've answered that Q, then choosing the correct set of headers becomes easier.

With all of the larger LT's out there, it's getting harder to find a good set of LT's for a daily driver, so the 1 5/8" shorty's or 1 1/2" if you can find them are the better choice

View attachment 150114

Awewome info, thank you. Will be shopping for shorties today.

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[Wahrsuul]

Yup, that's what I'm looking for - daily driver and I want to get rid of the stock manifolds. I'd been figuring on shorties with a new y-pipe.

 

[jknappen]

Just looking for shorties to replace my manifolds so I am not replcing the bolts down the road. Truck has 400 miles or so. It’s new. What are good options for ceramic coated shorties? Will these headers bolt up to the factory exhaust? Will they throw codes?

 

[Ram04]

If I were buying shorty's for my 04 5.7 right now, I would prob get the flowtech ceramic 1 1/2" primary's as they have a nice straight forward design to them and the 1 1/2" primary's would give Max low end TQ while the short length would still allow upper HP gains beyond the stock exhaust mani's. 2 1/2" collectors which is what you want for a mild street driver.

2 1/2" mid pipe and high flow cats or simply merge the 2 1/2" pipe to the factory cats which would open them up a bit. Then 3" single or dual 2 1/4 - 2 1/2" after that.

Second choice being the JBA Cat4wards, only because they are 1 5/8" and I would have to see their dyno sheet where it shows 24TQ gain @ 2100 rpm. They claim that, but dyno graph only starts at 3600rpm or something stupid like that and that concerns me.

 

[Ram04]

Unfortunately, I can't find a nice straight forward design for your year of Ram. The LT's are fairly straight forward, but for some reason the shorty's are all twisted. Add to that Flowtech makes theirs 1 3/4" now and my first choice would have to be the JBA's with 1 5/8" primaries.



1 5/8" is fine for this style of header because it will need the larger primary size to overcome all of the twists and bends they have in it.

 

[Ram04]

This is a nice style set of shorty's from JBA for the 3rd gen. Really whish they came in 1 1/2" primary size and I prob wouldn't be looking at LT's as I am.

They claim 21-24 more TQ @ 2100rpm which sounds Great, but the dyno they post doesn't show that gain

I contacted them and asked for the dyno plot that shows the 2100rpm gains and never got a response. So def unsettling when a Co. won't even answer your Q's...….