Sound Check, er sanity check

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S0CAL

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I welcome some feedback (pun intended) on my audio setup. I am thinking of upgrading my speakers, as the mids are seemingly weak. Volume is definltely not an issue, neither are highs and lows. Here is my current setup:
I fully dynamat'd the cab and I ran 16ga oxygen-free speaker wire to all the doors. I have my dash speakers connected directly to the HU, everything else powered by the amp.

I was thinking of losing the dashspeakers altogether. I am thinking of moving to JL audio across the board, and putting these in:
  • rear component - JL C3-600 6 1/2"
  • front component - JL C2-600 6" and running the component's tweeter in the dash speaker locations with some backstrapping, and of course running new speaker wire from the door to the dash.

The crossovers will fit inside the door panel near the speaker, but I don't want to modify the panel for the flush mount tweeters. Fortunately, the rears allow the tweeter to sit right on top of the woofer. So only the fronts need to be done.

OK, should I go component?? Is everything else sub-par? I don't need volume, don't need bass, I want clarity, and a fuller range.

Do I need a DSP like the Audio Control DS-810?

Uggh...
 

adrianp89

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You have some great equipment. With that being said, your speakers are easily the weakest link of the system.

You have high class amplifier, a great subwoofer set up and entry level speakers. I would take out the fronts completely. Leave the rear because they don't matter. Run the rear speakers off head unit power. Get a pair of nice components and run them bridged off the PDX. Once you get this done, then look into a dsp.

Now the million dollar question... whats your budget to upgrade?
 

TomT

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If you’re open to used equipment, I can make you a good deal on my previous system.

Hertz Hi-Energy 3 way components, Hertz 6.5” coaxials, Audison Bit One DSP.
 

Dodge This

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I agree with needing better speakers. Go with the JL's over Kicker any day. You can use adapter plates to put the 6.5" components in the front doors.

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-82-6901-Universal-Speaker-Adaptor/dp/B0007WQ8XE

For the rear doors, I'd either run a good set of 2-way 6x9s or disconnect them, because if you just keep the stock speakers and run them off of the head unit, you'll never hear them over the amplified front speakers.
 
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S0CAL

S0CAL

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You have some great equipment. With that being said, your speakers are easily the weakest link of the system.

You have high class amplifier, a great subwoofer set up and entry level speakers. I would take out the fronts completely. Leave the rear because they don't matter. Run the rear speakers off head unit power. Get a pair of nice components and run them bridged off the PDX. Once you get this done, then look into a dsp.

Now the million dollar question... whats your budget to upgrade?
That is good advice. I was definitely thinking of doing the fronts first anyway. <$1K. Part of the rationale for the rear speakers is I have a couple teenagers rockin out back there. :cool:
 
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S0CAL

S0CAL

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I agree with needing better speakers. Go with the JL's over Kicker any day. You can use adapter plates to put the 6.5" components in the front doors.

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-82-6901-Universal-Speaker-Adaptor/dp/B0007WQ8XE

For the rear doors, I'd either run a good set of 2-way 6x9s or disconnect them, because if you just keep the stock speakers and run them off of the head unit, you'll never hear them over the amplified front speakers.
Yeah, only the dash speakers today are connected to the HU. Fronts are rears are connected to the amp. I could do that, run 2-ways in the rear for sure.

I just know I don't want to simply update like-for-like speakers in my setup. This needs a transformation, hence the move to component up front. Thanks for tip on keeping 6x9s in the rear.
 
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S0CAL

S0CAL

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If you’re open to used equipment, I can make you a good deal on my previous system.

Hertz Hi-Energy 3 way components, Hertz 6.5” coaxials, Audison Bit One DSP.
shoot me a PM, Tom. Let's take a look.
 

Eestee70

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IMHO, I think were you fall short is not having a DSP. That opens up the world of tuning. TomT has some good equipment for sale. Also for your budget of 1k for fronts you can definitely get some top shelf components, morel, hertz, audio frog, dynaudio, focal, just to name a few. Keep in mind with a DSP I would recommend running an active setup.
 

TomT

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Here’s some pics.0EA87780-90B3-4E81-AF95-7456BABD4DAE.jpeg EB9C4B0E-F260-4AD5-B7E9-2A6412E0D041.jpeg AEB059F8-1706-442F-A805-6C3AC09DAD42.jpeg 6B11ADBA-0F99-4599-9566-6FC8F6425B6A.jpeg
 

adrianp89

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I don't know he is selling for but it is probably under your budget. If that doesn't work, I at 1k budget I would go with AudioFrog drivers.
 

autokraftgt

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Toms gear is nice stuff. Really nice stuff. Warning...dsp’s are not a plug and play deal (i hate auto-tune like ms8’s do lol)
You’ll need a good tune to your system once everything is powered up. Tuning is an art. A bad tune can make the best speakers sound like crap so you had better find a good local tuner or educate yourself on the matter. I love tuning. Like mentioned before, your speakers are the weakest link. Nice components, good install, and a solid tune will absolutely blow your current set up out of the water. Seriously, night and day difference. But...it has to be tuned appropriately. Level matched, phase checked, appropriate xover points, intelligent slope settings, and accurate time alignment. If all this is done,,,,you can throw the back door speakers in the lake. You wont need them, you won’t want them screwing up the musical nirvana that’s going on up front. Dont worry about your friends in the back seat... you/they won’t even realize the rear speakers are gone. TRUST ME.
 

Graygoose

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Toms gear is nice stuff. Really nice stuff. Warning...dsp’s are not a plug and play deal (i hate auto-tune like ms8’s do lol)
You’ll need a good tune to your system once everything is powered up. Tuning is an art. A bad tune can make the best speakers sound like crap so you had better find a good local tuner or educate yourself on the matter. I love tuning. Like mentioned before, your speakers are the weakest link. Nice components, good install, and a solid tune will absolutely blow your current set up out of the water. Seriously, night and day difference. But...it has to be tuned appropriately. Level matched, phase checked, appropriate xover points, intelligent slope settings, and accurate time alignment. If all this is done,,,,you can throw the back door speakers in the lake. You wont need them, you won’t want them screwing up the musical nirvana that’s going on up front. Dont worry about your friends in the back seat... you/they won’t even realize the rear speakers are gone. TRUST ME.
true, don't worry so much about the rear passengers, if they don't like the audio back there, they should have drove...not rode.
 

Eestee70

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^^^^i wish I could like post 13 & 14 100 times. I can also tell if someone has no clue about accurate sound reproduction. I just say 3 little letters and they look puzzled. RTA
 

Witch

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I am one of the guys that has no clue what i am talking baout, trying to learn for an upcoming build I am doing

Here is a good source for car audio tools, the RTA is almost 5 bills ....... :(

https://www.dandftooldrawer.com/
 

Eestee70

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I am one of the guys that has no clue what i am talking baout, trying to learn for an upcoming build I am doing

Here is a good source for car audio tools, the RTA is almost 5 bills ....... :(
Which RTA are you referring to
 

Eestee70

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8E62651E-30AD-48FB-AC8A-D391EF291C57.png 5E53BD78-6946-43A4-8B8C-2068D22F7BEE.png Yes they do. Audio control SA-4100 or the SA-4140. RTA. It also checks SPL levels, phase, and a few other things.
Only downfall is that it only works on apple products. They sell it at Crutchfield for $270
 

Witch

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That looks pretty cool
 
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