Supercharger whine question

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St. Charles, AR.
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Hemi 5.7
Looking to get a ripp supercharger in the near future for my 2012 ram and I've been wondering if anyone has this supercharger? Does it whine a lot? I've been thinking about adding another set of pulleys, one attached to a functioning pulley and another as an idler, then tightening the belt until it whines. This will all be for a short period of time, just to see if I'll like it or not. But back to the ripp, what all comes with the kit I must also ask?
 

Burla

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Google ripp supercharger and check all the video's, there are a ton of them.
 

charonblk07

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It's a centrifugal supercharger... it will whine, the V3 is not as bad as a straight cut supercharger, but it's still there.
 

meadows

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im pretty sure the whine hes referring to is the kenne bell/maggie whine. a procharger does this but sounds more like a jet than a whine.
 

BlackRamHemi

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Ditto, definitely a "Jet" engine sound
...My Ripp doesn't whine nearly as loud as a roots/screw type supercharger, but it is noticeable...
you also hear the sound of the blow-off valve that gives it a whistle sound when it's not in boost.

(My buddy MGRAM's youtube, not mine)

RIPP supercharged Ram with ARH headers - YouTube
 
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BlkRamRt

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The kenne bell whine is loud. I wish they would bring something out for the rams.
 

BlackRamHemi

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Roots/Screw type superchargers deliver WAY more low end Torque
...which equal bad news for the already weak-ass Ram transmissions.

The only way to go is with a Centrifugal unit (Vortec/Procharger ,or a Turbo (IMHO) for a Ram Truck.

That way power delivery increase is more gradual as engine rpm climbs steadily.


BTW, when it comes to forced induction and Ram transmissions

ANYONE considering adding boost better be prepared to spend some serious coin
...just buying a $5k supercharger "kit" is just enough to get you in trouble.

Pushing close to 500WHP will be closer to $10k-$11k all said and done,
and that's only if you DIY install everything. (been there done that)

Beside the extra cost of a custom "built" transmission ($3k)
You'll want to factor in another $1k for a good triple disc Torque Converter
another $600-$1200 for headers/gaskets/bolts...preferably with no cat's to open up your exhaust.
allow another $500 for a good water/**** kit for cooler pistons (piston insurance policy required due to narrow ring lands on stock Hemi pistons)
a triple gauge pod ($100) for Wide Band, Fuel Pressure and Boost gauges. ($500-$800) weld **** for WB sensor, fuel rail adapter needed for FP sensor.

You don't have to do the E-Fan mod, but to me it made things much easier ($100-$200 depending on model)
Stock clutch fan and shroud have to be removed for crank pin, brackets and new belt install anyway, so may as well do the swap.

..you also need to buy a set of 1 stage cooler spark plugs..$100 for 16
You'll need about 13 quarts of ATF+4 trans fluid as well ..$100-$150 (if you do the trans/TC swap)

My original stock trans only lasted 2 months under Boost.
(10' RCSB 4x4 daily driver with a 2800 stall that was abused for 3 years, 22k miles before boost.)

My custom built L&M trans smoked the OD clutches inside a week under Boost (8psi)
Likely because I run an ATS 3000 stall TC, didn't have the proper tuning in time and didn't use a "Quick Learn" program.

I will be rebuilding it myself with new OD clutch packs from Mike at L&M as soon as the snow melts.
..and will rebuild my old stock trans with almost new clutch pack from one of Mike's old cores at the same time.

If I wasn't doing all the work myself and had to pay someone,
I'd likely be into this for over $15k so far
 
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charonblk07

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There's also a big difference between the straight and helical cut gears. I've got straight cut and a local car member has a helical, mine's noisy as hell compared to his. It's less of a whine and more of a marbles in a crusher sound.
 

BlackRamHemi

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There's also a big difference between the straight and helical cut gears. I've got straight cut and a local car member has a helical, mine's noisy as hell compared to his. It's less of a whine and more of a marbles in a crusher sound.

Saw (or rather "heard") that noise on YouTube:

Supercharged 2008 Dodge Ram 5.7 Hemi ProCharger - YouTube

How can you tell when something is going south on a ProCharger with all that noise going on?

I also found a vid of KarateMan's Ram with a Magnuson (ATS tranny eater),
You can almost hear the supercharger whine under all that tire squealing...

09 super charged Hemi - YouTube
 

BlkRamRt

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Roots/Screw type superchargers deliver WAY more low end Torque
...which equal bad news for the already weak-ass Ram transmissions.

The only way to go is with a Centrifugal unit (Vortec/Procharger ,or a Turbo (IMHO) for a Ram Truck.

That way power delivery increase is more gradual as engine rpm climbs steadily.


BTW, when it comes to forced induction and Ram transmissions

ANYONE considering adding boost better be prepared to spend some serious coin
...just buying a $5k supercharger "kit" is just enough to get you in trouble.

Pushing close to 500WHP will be closer to $10k-$11k all said and done,
and that's only if you DIY install everything. (been there done that)

Beside the extra cost of a custom "built" transmission ($3k)
You'll want to factor in another $1k for a good triple disc Torque Converter
another $600-$1200 for headers/gaskets/bolts...preferably with no cat's to open up your exhaust.
allow another $500 for a good water/**** kit for cooler pistons (piston insurance policy required due to narrow ring lands on stock Hemi pistons)
a triple gauge pod ($100) for Wide Band, Fuel Pressure and Boost gauges. ($500-$800)

You don't have to do the E-Fan mod, but to me it made things much easier ($100-$200 depending on mode;)

..you also need to buy a set of 1 stage cooler spark plugs..$100
You'll need about 13 quarts of ATF+4 trans fluid as well ..$100-$150 (if you do the tranny/TC swap)

My original stock trans only lasted 2 months under Boost.
(10' RCSB 4x4 daily driver with a 2800 stall that was abused for 3 years, 22k miles ( before boost)

My custom built L&M trans smoked the OD clutches inside a week
because I didn't have the proper tuning in time and didn't use a "Quick Learn" program.

I will be rebuilding it myself with new OD clutch packs as soon as the snow melts.

If I wasn't doing all the work myself and had to pay someone,
I'd likely be into this for over $15k so far

you just made me not want a supercharger...lol
 

rustydagger

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I'm thinking about waiting until after my 100k mile warranty is up, then rebuilding the engine and transmission when something starts to die. Then getting a blower and/or cam and heads. By that time prices should be down and tuning should be better mapped out.
 

charonblk07

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I'm thinking about waiting until after my 100k mile warranty is up, then rebuilding the engine and transmission when something starts to die. Then getting a blower and/or cam and heads. By that time prices should be down and tuning should be better mapped out.

Sorry, prices won't come down. New superchargers don't change in price unless you get a killer sale. If you go used that's another story but you never know the condition of the headunit. I bought a used P1SC and it's got a nice oil leak, sadly I have to get a D1SC now :nutkick:
 

rustydagger

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Sorry, prices won't come down. New superchargers don't change in price unless you get a killer sale. If you go used that's another story but you never know the condition of the headunit. I bought a used P1SC and it's got a nice oil leak, sadly I have to get a D1SC now :nutkick:

Good to know! It'll be easier without payments for sure :p I would be afraid of used ones also. Thanks for the input.
 

USNVet

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Roots/Screw type superchargers deliver WAY more low end Torque
...which equal bad news for the already weak-ass Ram transmissions.

The only way to go is with a Centrifugal unit (Vortec/Procharger ,or a Turbo (IMHO) for a Ram Truck.

That way power delivery increase is more gradual as engine rpm climbs steadily.


BTW, when it comes to forced induction and Ram transmissions

ANYONE considering adding boost better be prepared to spend some serious coin
...just buying a $5k supercharger "kit" is just enough to get you in trouble.

Pushing close to 500WHP will be closer to $10k-$11k all said and done,
and that's only if you DIY install everything. (been there done that)

Beside the extra cost of a custom "built" transmission ($3k)
You'll want to factor in another $1k for a good triple disc Torque Converter
another $600-$1200 for headers/gaskets/bolts...preferably with no cat's to open up your exhaust.
allow another $500 for a good water/**** kit for cooler pistons (piston insurance policy required due to narrow ring lands on stock Hemi pistons)
a triple gauge pod ($100) for Wide Band, Fuel Pressure and Boost gauges. ($500-$800) weld **** for WB sensor, fuel rail adapter needed for FP sensor.

You don't have to do the E-Fan mod, but to me it made things much easier ($100-$200 depending on model)
Stock clutch fan and shroud have to be removed for crank pin, brackets and new belt install anyway, so may as well do the swap.

..you also need to buy a set of 1 stage cooler spark plugs..$100 for 16
You'll need about 13 quarts of ATF+4 trans fluid as well ..$100-$150 (if you do the trans/TC swap)

My original stock trans only lasted 2 months under Boost.
(10' RCSB 4x4 daily driver with a 2800 stall that was abused for 3 years, 22k miles before boost.)

My custom built L&M trans smoked the OD clutches inside a week under Boost (8psi)
Likely because I run an ATS 3000 stall TC, didn't have the proper tuning in time and didn't use a "Quick Learn" program.

I will be rebuilding it myself with new OD clutch packs from Mike at L&M as soon as the snow melts.
..and will rebuild my old stock trans with almost new clutch pack from one of Mike's old cores at the same time.

If I wasn't doing all the work myself and had to pay someone,
I'd likely be into this for over $15k so far

Exactly what he said...(my tally so far)
$5000 for the RIPP kit, gauge pod, and autometer gauges
$1500 for the install

$4000 for L&M transmission and ATS tripple disc TC
$2000 for Stainless Works LT headers and performance exhaust
$1500 for install

$400 for AIS water/**** kit
$300 in bolts, fluids, gaskets, and plugs

So, BRH hit the nail on the head at close to 15K paying someone else to do the labor! Didn't you smoke that trans running the stock RIPP tuning? I have about 100 "break-in" miles to go on my L&M transmission.
 

charonblk07

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Doing it right, and doing right the first time can be expensive, just like the others have said. I'm afraid to tally up my drivetrain costs. I'll give it a swing though.

$3000 forged 349 short block + shipping
$2800 L&M trans
$400 Circle-D TC
$2600 P1SC system, used no intercooler, piping, or tune
$400 remote tuning
$600 intercooler & piping
$1400 ARH 1 7/8" LT headers
$1500 install (shop space rental)

$450 dual catch can + vac pump setup
$1300 misc parts
$1600 custom exhaust + parts
$1100 oil leak repairs and alignment

This doesn't include the cost of the ported heads and intake manifold from my old truck. I'll be 20K in just in drivetrain alone by the time I'm done, and that's with me doing all the work myself except the exhaust.

Damn, i did that in 1 year :uhoh2: Nobody tell my wife! Crap, this means I'm in about $30-32K on the truck since Dec '12... and I'm not done yet :evillol:
 

HEMI-PWRD

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My supercharger does whine. It was not very noticeable at first with headers, no cats and flow master. I can hear it now with a Magnaflow muffler.

The whine will not be as loud as the Ford Harleys or Ford lightnings.
 
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