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Might want to consider 0w30 or 0w40. As tolerances widen thicker oil slows engines using oil. You cleaned your rings with that strategy, so you might have some gaps or peaks/valleys on your rings that thinner oil slips through easier. Your in Canada, I think all you guys should be on winter rated oils. And oh yeah thicker oils protect metal better.
What oil were you running before? 5w30 or 5w20? If you say 5w20, its good that you're in Ontario. Otherwise you would have faced many a Hemi tick by now.
For Hemi? Keep tick at bay?
Potentially with the ester content, would require some further experimenting @Hemi395 . I suspect its a TMP polyol ester in the 10-12% concentration range. PAO/GTL for the rest. Its a heavy shear stable 30 to at 12.2 cst IIRC
Honestly this seems to be about as universal of an oil as there is! It doesnt have an API donut but mobil says it passes SP engine tests so it doesnt meet SP but its good for LSPI despite having 1700ppm calcium. Loaded with top euro approvals to including mb229.52 which has an LSPI test
I always ran 5w20 on this engine and always did 5000-6000 oci. Ive never had any lifter issues or any noisy rocker arms or lifters. When I gave restore and protect a go for recomended 4 minimum oci's it definitely made a noticeable smoother running engine and the oil came out cleaner and each time i drained it and while I kept an eye on it in my catch can.
Ok so what is the difference from a 5w20 to 0w30 or 0w40 ?
The answer as it pertains to an engine is complicated, as in the fact the oil pump is an equalizer, it moves nearly the same amount of oil in a pressurized system no matter what weight. All winter rated products are synthetic and are best effort oils by manu's. If you look at cst viscosity numbers on stat sheets you can see 0w40's operating visc, and the ones near 12.5 in simple terms are basically 30 weights or more correct 5w30 most of the time in the sump. 0w30 usually carries very desirable specs like Porsche or BMW or Merc and they will shear even less then those super class 0w40's, so if you pick a good 0w30 it can actually be thicker then 0w40 at the time you send a sample to Blackstone. 20 weight is just thin oil, not a lot of cushioning your metal parts. The better the film of an oil can be film strength by oil or EP additives and some aw additives, the more protection of metal. It is complicated because some of these AW/EP additives actually encourage wear, but it is "good wear", the film sacrifices itself and takes some high points on the metal with it.
Its only 80 but 300ppm boron. Its been around for a while but was hard to find. They released it to autozone a few years ago but was expensive. Id say a year or so ago it hit walmart and its cheap
No MoDTC is a type of moly. Boron is a multifuctional additive, i believe it has antiwear, EP, and antioxidant capabilities. Theres also borate esters which may be what this is, im not to well versed on the ins and outs of boron in lubricants. It depletes with use as well, i believe over the course of an OCI its chemical makeup changes and is no longer detectable as boron. I forget the science behind it. Its activated at a much lower temp than moly and zddp. Redline also uses a good amount of boron, AMSOIL uses like 400ppm. The SN redline euro oils used 500ppm
