Synthetic Oil

[Burla]

kyle, you wanna hear my argument for 0w20 in the 6.4? Now that 0w30 looks less scary?

 

[U&A]

kyle, you wanna hear my argument for 0w20 in the 6.4? Now that 0w30 looks less scary?

Ok.....yes[emoji16]

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

those will be popular with 5g.

Friend of mine that works for a power company says he’s only seen 5G just a few times and they’ve only been in really big cities.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Hemi395]

I bet that 0w30 will be thicker then most 0w40's when it comes time to do that uoa, especially because it's base oils. Redline 0w30 on the line of being 40 weight, all other 0w40's on line of being a 30 weight, yes? You know why they made it 0w40, it is about skirting api rules, not about film strength, if it was about film strength fca would have spec'd it. FCA spec is basically a 30 weight oil, it just says 0w40 The swing difference will end up having much more useless particles rolling around 0w40 versus 0w30, and when you get that piston slap, you are going to say dang it Burla.

corey any uoa's on the 0w30 redline yet? Are you planning on any?

I have one from a couple years ago when I had high copper so I don't think that's a fair result of RL 0w30. I do plan on running one next spring after the coming winter run of 0w30...

 

[U&A]

I have one from a couple years ago when I had high copper so I don't think that's a fair result of RL 0w30. I do plan on running one next spring after the coming winter run of 0w30...

Your last analysis was absolutely amazing so it’s gonna be hard to beat it.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Hemi395]

Friend of mine that works for a power company says he’s only seen 5G just a few times and they’ve only been in really big cities.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

They're putting them in around here, they look like big paint cans in the top of poles. We had a whole safety meeting on what to do if we have to climb a pole with a 5g antenna on it. Pretty scary ****, they can cause microwave burns up to 10ft away....

 

[U&A]

They're putting them in around here, they look like big paint cans in the top of poles. We had a whole safety meeting on what to do if we have to climb a pole with a 5g antenna on it. Pretty scary ****, they can cause microwave burns up to 10ft away....

Yup,

And from what I’ve heard recently on ham news Is some companies are actually considering using it over fiber optic.

Radio waves are about as fast as the speed of light and fiber optic I think is less than half of that.

Correct me if I’m wrong on the fiber optic info


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Burla]

Ok.....yes[emoji16]

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Took the bait

We know 20 weight has been keeping hemi's running great except for lifters and cam lobes. But, we now know about the lack of lubrication and that additives such as moly ease tick, thus protecting lifters. Low viscosity can both coat lifters and bring said additives better then higher viscosity.

Now, we largely think cold piston slap is harmless because of the GM example. But are you convinced fca quality is similar to the GM engines famous for piston slap? The rocking back and forth of pistons can lead to rings not seated right over time, depending on how bad the pistons are scuffed let's us know there could be downward pressure downstream. Sound familiar? Piston slap can be doing to connecting rods what tick is doing to cam lobes, this is an unkown.

In conclusion, we lose nothing by running 20 weight because film strength is not the issue, additives are. It is those heavier oils that bring up piston slap the worse, the net is full of mechanics suggesting low viscosity synthetic oil to deal with piston slap, and by ignoring piston slap to treat lifters that don't need viscosity but additives, we are shooting ourselves in the foot before taking a hike.

 

[Burla]

They're putting them in around here, they look like big paint cans in the top of poles. We had a whole safety meeting on what to do if we have to climb a pole with a 5g antenna on it. Pretty scary ****, they can cause microwave burns up to 10ft away....

you gonna order like 4 of kyles hats?

 

[U&A]

Took the bait

We know 20 weight has been keeping hemi's running great except for lifters and cam lobes. But, we now know about the lack of lubrication and that additives such as moly ease tick, thus protecting lifters. Low viscosity can both coat lifters and bring said additives better then higher viscosity.

Now, we largely think cold piston slap is harmless because of the GM example. But are you convinced fca quality is similar to the GM engines famous for piston slap? The rocking back and forth of pistons can lead to rings not seated right over time, depending on how bad the pistons are scuffed let's us know there could be downward pressure downstream. Sound familiar? Piston slap can be doing to connecting rods what tick is doing to cam lobes, this is an unkown.

In conclusion, we lose nothing by running 20 weight because film strength is not the issue, additives are. It is those heavier oils that bring up piston slap the worse, the net is full of mechanics suggesting low viscosity synthetic oil to deal with piston slap, and by ignoring piston slap to treat lifters that don't need viscosity but additives, we are shooting ourselves in the foot before taking a hike.

Good explanation Mike.

Thank you.

Also. Im never going hiking with you


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Beagler]

Took me some time to read lots of this but here I am in the same boat as most. Fill you in on my story. Bought the 17 Ram 5.7 new. Run smooth as ever until after the first oil change with the PUP 5/20 Full Syn. Started getting the clicking at start up then goes away. Next oil change went to the PUP 5/30 and it has been doing well with the 5/30 for a couple changes now until about the 50k mile mark. Ticking has been coming back so I Figured I would try something different. Bought a gallon of the RL 5/30 and told the fella at Firestone to add in 3 quarts of PUP 5/30 with the Redline. Well as usual still had the tick right after the oil change but noticed it was worse. Checked back with Firestone and they put PUP 5/20 in instead of 5/30. Damn tards. Well I got a bottle of Lubeguard on the way and going to pour some in and see how good this product does.

Question for yall. If checking the oil level after sitting all night and it's dead on the top full line of the dipstick how many OZ's of the lubeguard would you add from the 15oz bottle??

 

[Burla]

With what we know now thanks to Justin driving the conversation that led to massive posts on it, 0w30 may be to cold states to what 5w30 is to warm states, a very special formula, one that can fight piston slap and hemi tick. DEpending on how bad the slap, could I be convinced to run 0w20 redline in a 6.4, I would have to say yes. The oil pump will keep the psi close, which is our film strength anyway. I might at least try and back it up with a uoa.

 

[Burla]

Took me some time to read lots of this but here I am in the same boat as most. Fill you in on my story. Bought the 17 Ram 5.7 new. Run smooth as ever until after the first oil change with the PUP 5/20 Full Syn. Started getting the clicking at start up then goes away. Next oil change went to the PUP 5/30 and it has been doing well with the 5/30 for a couple changes now until about the 50k mile mark. Ticking has been coming back so I Figured I would try something different. Bought a gallon of the RL 5/30 and told the fella at Firestone to add in 3 quarts of PUP 5/30 with the Redline. Well as usual still had the tick right after the oil change but noticed it was worse. Checked back with Firestone and they put PUP 5/20 in instead of 5/30. Damn tards. Well I got a bottle of Lubeguard on the way and going to pour some in and see how good this product does.

Question for yall. If checking the oil level after sitting all night and it's dead on the top full line of the dipstick how many OZ's of the lubeguard would you add from the 15oz bottle??

the entire bottle no problem, sounds like you have 7 quarts exactly, most of us run 7.5 or myself runs 8 quarts. no prob, let us know if any change at all, and you have to give moly a chance to plate. Do you have a garage? might want to dyi.

 

[Hemi395]

you gonna order like 4 of kyles hats?

Nah just going to find a better job[emoji23]

 

[Burla]

amen

my favorite show these days is homestead rescue. the decision to go off grid is looking like a smart move these days. Bug out, get out of rat race, and live in peace.

my closest friend came over last night to give me an update on his steel building he put on twenty fertile acres of CA land. Trusses are up, all he needs now is to skin it. It's cool the seller sends the order in pieces, so he built it over time, it took two months to get foundation and frame up, if he would have insulation and skin stored who knows what shape it would be in. So now that trusses are up, he can get the skin and insulation up, he will have it done in a month. $30k, 50x100 steel building. He has no trees to speak of on land but the olive trees he will plant, zero fire danger. Offgrid with zero risk of fire and 20 acres, life is good man.

 

[Beagler]

the entire bottle no problem, sounds like you have 7 quarts exactly, most of us run 7.5 or myself runs 8 quarts. no prob, let us know if any change at all, and you have to give moly a chance to plate. Do you have a garage? might want to dyi.

No don't have a garage but I will use the whole bottle and see how well it does. Right now it's doing that quick slap clatter and then ticking at initial crank up. Once it has run about 25-30 seconds it's pretty smooth. Just hate hearing that initial tick. 30w is certainly better than the 20w in these trucks.

I just had Fedex drop it off so went ahead and put it in. Just as a test I only put 7oz in it just to see what a small amount of this stuff would do. Might add the remainder later but want to see first. Will keep you updated on the results of the Lubeguard.

 

[Team Horner]

Argh....before my head explodes...

My plan has always been to run RL 0W-40 in my '18 PW. After reading the posts from the last couple of days, I was starting to lean toward 0W-30 instead....but being in NJ I'm now considering 0W-30 instead to deal with the colder winter months.

The truck is primarily used to tow my 18' bass boat so it's nothing serious.

So what's the official recommendation - RL 0W-40, 5W-30, or 0W-30???

 

[Burla]

This is the rule, as thick as you can up to 5w40 and avoid piston slap. Especially a truck that tows.

We don't know what weight will make your truck get slap, maybe it wont. Some guys slap on 5w30, and even on 0w30 just less pronounced. If you are not having hemi tick, I like 0w40 PUP as a strategy, good moly and a more friendly viscosity and formula for piston slap. PUP is two full points thinner then redline 0w40, and with great moly, and will even shear off that number. If someone is going to use a 40 weight redline, I say 5w40 or go home with it. So we cant really say one size fits all man, because it doesn't. You need to make a plan, hopefully it keep slap away in the cold and tick away in the hot.

So do you have any tick? Did you have piston slap last year? What oil did you tun last year? This might help us.

 

[dexter]

Argh....before my head explodes...

My plan has always been to run RL 0W-40 in my '18 PW. After reading the posts from the last couple of days, I was starting to lean toward 0W-30 instead....but being in NJ I'm now considering 0W-30 instead to deal with the colder winter months.

The truck is primarily used to tow my 18' bass boat so it's nothing serious.

So what's the official recommendation - RL 0W-40, 5W-30, or 0W-30???

Winter!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they are both 0W!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why would you go thinner?

RL 40 also has more moly then RL 30!

 

[Team Horner]

This is the rule, as thick as you can up to 5w40 and avoid piston slap. Especially a truck that tows.

We don't know what weight will make your truck get slap, maybe it wont. Some guys slap on 5w30, and even on 0w30 just less pronounced. If you are not having hemi tick, I like 0w40 PUP as a strategy, good moly and a more friendly viscosity and formula for piston slap. PUP is two full points thinner then redline 0w40, and with great moly, and will even shear off that number. If someone is going to use a 40 weight redline, I say 5w40 or go home with it. So we cant really say one size fits all man, because it doesn't. You need to make a plan, hopefully it keep slap away in the cold and tick away in the hot.

So do you have any tick? Did you have piston slap last year? What oil did you tun last year? This might help us.

Understood. I bought the truck new in August 2019 as a leftover. Still on the factory fill, but coming up on the first change based both on time and mileage. No tick. No slap.

With the all the quarantine that NJ had for the first part of the year, it hasn't seen much use this year. Hell, the boat is still winterized from last fall.