Synthetic vs Ester-Synthetic

[mtwofeathers]

Rumor is, royal purple gets rid of hemi tick.

Rumor is they still destroy themselves.

 

[Farmer Fran]

That’s pretty much my oci. I also use penzoil ultra platinum With a a fram ultra filter I’m my hemi 1500. Some guys use redline 0-30 as their trucks have the hemi tick and have found their tick either eliminated or greatly reduced. My hemi remains quite and problem free, but only 47000 miles. thus far no reason to change or explore other options. My uneducated opinion is many of the lifter cam failures are caused by extended drain intervals. That’s why I was asking about your oci.

To be clear, so I do not get flamed, these are estimated - I have the in my log so it might have been 505, 998, ... not right on the 1000, 5000

 

[huntergreen]

To be clear, so I do not get flamed, these are estimated - I have the in my log so it might have been 505, 998, ... not right on the 1000, 5000

Lol, same here. by the way, I’m sitting here a bit envious of your challenger ! Lol

 

[Matt92037]

Maybe you should work on spelling and grammar before moving onto numbers

being the spelling and grammar police is the lowest form of forum participation……

 

[mtwofeathers]

Here is part 1 of an article I WROTE several years ago for Sport Rider Magazine which is a motorcycle magazine. It is aimed at motorcycles but it does have a lot of info that may answer the basic questions on the differences in Group III. IV and V oils

Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 1

Editor's Note: This is Part One of a special Sport Rider comparison test, where we unlock the mysteries and debunk some of the myths of motor oil. We examine just what goes into motor oil, why those ingredients are there and what it means for your engine. In the next issue, Part Two will feature...

www.cycleworld.com

I have a S&S knucklehead on a custom frame. I can not use a synthetic oil in it. I also have number 376 V-Rod from the first year run. Of course right now it still has the original synthetic oil in it. Bike only has 75 miles on it. And when my kids ever get it after I die, I hope they keep it like it is for another 15 years. That V-Rod is worth 3 times what I paid for it now. Since its a Porsche design, I can see how the newer oils would be better. But that other bike and engine just don't care for synthetic oil. Most of them too thin, not to mention the older clutch system needs a special lube which is the same oil in the engine side. And it all goes into the same oil tank. They are separated while running but its the same oil back and forth.

My shovelhead every once in a while will burp a few ounces on the ground, some call it bad, but it is the nature of that beast before the pump started to suck it down.

 

[mtwofeathers]

being the spelling and grammar police is the lowest form of forum participation……

Very true, one has to accept, that using a phone can screw up a bunch of words for sure.

 

[smiley]

I did not see any glaring grammatical or spelling mistakes lol.

He can’t spell statistics but I am not trying to be that guy so I just kept scrolling. I knew what he meant.

 

[smiley]

I am cheap so I usually use group 3 synthetics. I do splurge and get Redline for the differentials.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

being the spelling and grammar police is the lowest form of forum participation……

Pointing out the above is lower.

 

[HEMIMANN]

I am cheap so I usually use group 3 synthetics. I do splurge and get Redline for the differentials.

Actually, this makes sense outside of being "cheap". Engine oil needs changing more frequently regardless due to byproducts of combustion piston blowby. Non of the other lubricated components has combustion. Modern engines are more sensitive to contaminants due to use of engine oil as a hydraulic oil for VVT, MDS, etc., so they really shouldn't be run to 20,000 miles anymore with a Group IV or V oil. Since we're changing engine oil @ ~ 5,000 miles, there isn't any benefit with Group IV or V engine oils.

For less contaminated components like transmissions, differentials, and transfer cases, the opposite is true. They become contaminated much more slowly (from atmospheric moisture, metal wear shavings, atmospheric dust) so can run much longer OCI's. These benefit from Group IV and V synthetics, obviously, that last longer than Group III's.

Even so, Group III's are very good lubricants and perform well for average use. Those that tow heavy or run hot or cold frequently benefit from Group IV & V.

 

[smiley]

I agree!

 

[Elkman]

At least with regard to diesel motor oil the Red Line is pretty good with its additive mix and far superior to Amsoil which is among the worst. When it comes to current motor oils that meet the SAE specifications there is no significant difference in performance.

People seem unaware that when lead was no longer being added to gasoline the engine life more than doubled with no need to improve the metal alloys or the lubricants. In 2017 the new oils being introduced had been thoroughly tested by ALL the engine manufacturers for years with hundreds of thousands of engine hours.

Fleet operators with hundreds or even thousands of vehicles being managed know better than to get sucked in by the marketing hype of the oil and filter companies.

Want to maximize oil lubrication then invest in a block heater in cold country and avoid short trips.

 

[Roger3]

Alright with all the choices for oil and all the threads I can’t seem to find the weight of oil or whatever. 10w30 lol. Any help? I’m considering the royal purple amsoil redline .

 

[Burla]

Alright with all the choices for oil and all the threads I can’t seem to find the weight of oil or whatever. 10w30 lol. Any help? I’m considering the royal purple amsoil redline .

the manu says 5w20, ram forum members also like 0w30 or 5w30. The only place I'd consider 10w30 is the left coast or florida or maybe deep south. Any of those 3 oils are good choices depending on what you are looking for.

 

[Treburkulosis]

Ok guys the time has come my oil question. Im currently running 5 w 20 Castrol edge and its done very well in my engine. Its creeping up on 145k and I noticed that the oil pressure is about 5-10 psi lower then normal lately. I am doing a oil change this weekend on it. @Burla what do you think? I would like to to be 55 psi, but its around 45-50 hot currently. Not bad, but I constantly watch my gauges. Keep running the Castrol edge since its worked, switch to a better filter? I run the puralator boss and its also been good to me. What do you think? I am starting a new job tomorrow, so it will be on the road more and a lot of traffic in the evening. Morning wont be bad. Idling in traffic is what I worry about knowing how that effects the Hemi.

 

[Burla]

5w30 and try a new filter. I'd investigate more, maybe do a uoa, if it is true and you are down 10psi, something is up. Next time you have a good warm idle, post the psi. Many causes for low psi, thin oil is a big one. In this one particular case you may opt for rp 10-48 instead of larger one.

 

[HEMIMANN]

@Treburkulosis - could be a worn oil pump / seal as well. In the realm of possibilities @ 145k miles. All our generations have conventional, mechanical-drive gerotor oil pumps. Not very pricey to replace.

 

[Treburkulosis]

5w30 and try a new filter. I'd investigate more, maybe do a uoa, if it is true and you are down 10psi, something is up. Next time you have a good warm idle, post the psi. Many causes for low psi, thin oil is a big one. In this one particular case you may opt for rp 10-48 instead of larger one.

What’s the best filter right now? I’ll give 5w30 a go. Redline any better in this case. It’s been Castrol edge for almost 100k tonight it was fine.

 

[Treburkulosis]

@Treburkulosis - could be a worn oil pump / seal as well. In the realm of possibilities @ 145k miles. All our generations have conventional, mechanical-drive gerotor oil pumps. Not very pricey to replace.

Ive never had a pump get weak at 145k. It’s also my first ram. I might just sea foam it it’s been 12k since it’s last time. It’s not that big of a change, just a notable change. It’s also at 4.5k miles.

 

[Burla]

What’s the best filter right now? I’ll give 5w30 a go. Redline any better in this case. It’s been Castrol edge for almost 100k tonight it was fine.

Base oils or EP additives wont help psi, and I prefer RP filters. Viscosity is the only concern, so you can always go thicker.