Thinking about a system

[14hemiexpress]

I have been planing on building a system for my ram for a while now. So far I have picked out a few items and would like to get some feedback on them.
1- I like my stock u connect 5.0 so I would be keeping that.
2- Upgrade dash speakers to kicker 41ksc354 3 1/2's
3- Pioneer TS-A1305C 5 1/4 component system ( with the scosche adapters brackets to mount the 5 1/4 and the tweeters in factory location)
4- Pioneer GM-A4604 4 channel amp 40x4 rms with speaker level inputs.
5- I currently own a Rockford fosgate mono amp with dual sub outlets running apox 250 rms (had it for a while and don't remember power ratings but it ran 2 low end jbl 12s very we'll.)
6- Kicker compR 8" dual 4 ohm sub-40CWR84
7- Home built mdf box for under the rear seat.
8- lci2 LOC for the fosgate amp.

How I plan on running the system. I plan on extending all the factory door speakers to the pioneer amp, from there I will jump the front speaker inputs to the lci2. I will use the lci2 for my remote out to both amps. All grounds will be tied to seat mount. I am not certain how I am going to run my power cable for both amps. I am debating running a capacitor or not, I am not sure if I will need the extra boost from one or not. If I run a capacitor can I just run a single 4 gauge in and 2 4 gauge out, or will I need to still run a distribution box inline with the capacitor? If I don't run a capacitor in the system I will just wire up a power distribution box. To power my lci2 I will jump something like a 12 or 14ga wire from the block or one of the amps. Is there any faults in my plan or is it pretty solid? This will be my first "real" build I have built sub boxes and added subs to a system but nothing this sophisticated they have mostly been just overwhelming bass I want a real system something that is crisp and can deliver a punch.

And Speaker wire is 16ga wire thick enough to go from my amp to the component system's delivering 40 rms per line.

 

[Etroze86]

I would run the 6 1/2 pioneer componets and make the most out of the room you have in the doors or if you can fit them the kicker 6x9 components. Run 0 gauge wire as it will give you room to expand later if you want and run a fused distrobution block. I am a fan of the ones from KNUKoncepts. Last multiamp system you will need a little more capable LOC and would recommend stepping up to the LC7i as it will give you enough outputs to run both amps with no daisy chaining.

Edit: disregard the LC7i I didn't read that you were going to use the High level inputs on the pioneer amp.

 

[PX8]

X2 on the 6 1/2. 4 gauge worked fine for the 60X4 + 250X1 amp I ran but with multiple amps I like the idea of the 0 too. Find a good firewall connector, I can't for the life of me think of what they are called that way you'll stay water proof into the cab. If you haven't already bought the 40X4 amp I would step up to at least 60 personally based upon the door speakers you buy. Filling sound in from the back will be pretty tough if not impossible so if you like you can just go with 6X9's in the back, that "fit" Fit is the key word because depth is limited.

 

[14hemiexpress]

Thanks for the input! Can I fit a 6 1/2 component with a tweeter in the door in the factory location? (Here is the a pic of the adapter I would like to use if possible) I would rather not cut new holes to mount the tweeters. I already have a 4 gauge wire kit left over from the last system. How about the capacitor does the ram have the electrical system to handle both amps with out dimming the lights? I had a caliber srt4 that I ran the 250x1 in and didn't have any issues with the lights dimming just wondering how much more the 40x4 would pull?

And a grommet will be used at the fire wall

 

[Etroze86]

You can run the tweeter in the dash and nix the 3.5s. Also no need for a Cap those are just bandaids for poor electrical anyways.

 

[PX8]

I think you'd be a lot happier with relocating the tweets. If you are just going to go with that bracket you might as well find 6X9's that you like. Everyone is pretty high on the mopars. They are kickers. Actually everyone pretty much likes all of those as an budget upgrade.

As far as the cap. Completely unnessary in my opinion. Excuse all of the grammer and spelling mistakes. playing at work

 

[14hemiexpress]

From what I have read the 3.5 make a big difference. I'm not doubting y'all's views. Were would I run the rear tweeters if I put the front in the dash? I like the simplicity of not making modifications to the truck, that's why I like that bracket so much. I am glad that the ram has good enough electrical systems to not need a capacitor.

 

[Etroze86]

Wouldn't bother with replacing rear speakers as you can't hear them anyways. but if you are set on doing it just run the tweets in the stock location in the rear.

 

[BlkRamRt]

I agree on 0 gauge wire along with the 6 1/2 for a little more output. With everything you listed its a great start minus the capacitor "dont waist your time". Only thing I would recommend is do it right the first time so you dont have to waist more time and money trying to fix it later on "its happening to me as we speak"...lol

 

[14hemiexpress]

I agree on 0 gauge wire along with the 6 1/2 for a little more output. With everything you listed its a great start minus the capacitor "dont waist your time". Only thing I would recommend is do it right the first time so you dont have to waist more time and money trying to fix it later on "its happening to me as we speak"...lol

I hate redoing stuff that's the worst especially when it costs you more money.
Both amps recommend a 8 gauge power wires is 0 really necessary? The 0 gauge kits are expensive I like going over kill 90% of the time but I don't want to spend more on a wiring kit than I did in my amps. I won't be expanding the system the only other amp setup I would go to would be a 5 channel 50x4 300x1.

 

[14hemiexpress]

I found a set of infinity primus PR6500CS 6 1/2 components for my price range. They use the same bracket as the 5 1/4s.

 

[Etroze86]

KNUKoncepts wire they also have a dual 4 gauge kit and very resonable for price.

 

[BlkRamRt]

Since you wont use power hungry equipment 4 gauge would be good. KNUKoncepts has some good wiring also Shok Industriies would be another competitor.

 

[14hemiexpress]

I already have a 4 gauge kit I'm not sure of the brand but i had no problems out of it. I will just have to add a distribution box and get few extra feet of 4 gauge for grounds. I am pretty set there. How are the primus series speaker are they decent? I haven't her of them before I have used the reference series and they were good speakers good quality nice and crisp.

 

[14hemiexpress]

I have done some research going off to not putting a lot of effort into the rear speakers I found a pioneer 2 channel 60x2 with speaker inputs and the infinity primus 6 1/2 are rated up to 60, and then I found a pair of kicker 3 way kicker 6x9 that fit my budget. So if I go that way I will save about $50 on the amp and the time wiring up all the inputs and taping the speaker lines. I can take that 50 and add a little sound deadening around the speakers. I also plan using the foam inserts behind all the speakers.

Also JVC makes a pair of 6x9 4 way speakers that fit the rear door. What is the difference between 4 way and 3 way I understand the 3 way I'm just not sure what is added with the 4 ways.

 

[charonblk07]

Don't buy a kit, just pick up a distribution block with a 0-gauge input and go to a local welding shop and buy 1/0 welding cable, that stuff will handle all the power you can imagine and cost 1/4 less than a kit from an audio company will. Then use the 8-gauge you have from your last kit to go from the distribution block to the amps. Here's one of the distribution blocks I picked up for my original build, only $25 and easily accessible for fuses. There are others out there that are cheaper.

 

[john94si]

0 gauge is a total waste for your setup. 4g is plenty.

I would run a single LOC or change out your headunit. I just changed my5.0 out last week with a pioneer 4000nex. I love it.

 

[14hemiexpress]

Don't buy a kit, just pick up a distribution block with a 0-gauge input and go to a local welding shop and buy 1/0 welding cable, that stuff will handle all the power you can imagine and cost 1/4 less than a kit from an audio company will. Then use the 8-gauge you have from your last kit to go from the distribution block to the amps. Here's one of the distribution blocks I picked up for my original build, only $25 and easily accessible for fuses. There are others out there that are cheaper.

That's a pretty nice distribution box compared to the ones on crutchfield. I will probably pick up all the speakers there and buy the rest off amazon. Are the back speakers in a quad cab worth amplifying? I for sure want to stay below $600 on this build. With a 4 channel amp, 1 8in sub, 1 set of 6 1/2 components, 1 pair of 6x9's, and a pair of 3 1/2 I'm up to $480 I still have to build to box, get a little of power wire, speaker wire, and a distribution box. So it's money crunching time. But I'm only doing it, if it'll be worth it.

Edit: gotta add in the $100 lci2 so my budget is tight

 

[BlkRamRt]

Leave the rear alone and keep the factory speakers. Not like you sit back there anyways....lol

 

[14hemiexpress]

So 3 1/2's for the dash (pretty set on them) infinity 6 1/2 components front door pioneer 2 channel 60x2 to power the front doors a 8 in sub, lci2 line out converter.