Toe seems off but alignment is perfect?

[HStone33]

So I’ve been noticing that my 2010 has a slight pull to the left lately and when I came home today it looked like the tire is cocked out a little only on the driver side when the steering wheel is straight. I’ve had the alignment checked multiple times since I lifted it 6 months ago and it always comes out fine. But when I drive it, it seems the wheel really wants to follow the path of the driver side tire. so to go straight I have the steering wheel at about 1 o’clock. I checked the tie rods and I’m able to rotate them by hand pretty easily, I’ve heard that’s bad. What is this mysterious cause if the alignment is okay?

 

[McBroom]

Can you post up more pictures of the suspension? IE
About 5 or 6 ft from the bumper with the steering wheel straight.
The A arms,cv joint angles,drag link,pitman arm, everything related to the suspension system.
How much lift did you put on?
Check tire pressure?
How are the roads that you typically drive on?
Does it do this 100% of the time or intermittent?

Blue Mule

 

[HStone33]

I’ll snag the suspension pics here in a little. I did a 4” Superlift with Bilsteins set at 1.8”. All the tire pressures are the same. It does it constantly, on rougher roads it’s usually is a bit worse and some bump steer occurs. It’s nothing that I’m thinking is gonna kill me or compromise my safety but I just like everything to be the closest to stock it can be. I know lifted applications definitely reduce steering performance due to large tires, wheels, etc.

 

[HStone33]

Can you post up more pictures of the suspension? IE
About 5 or 6 ft from the bumper with the steering wheel straight.
The A arms,cv joint angles,drag link,pitman arm, everything related to the suspension system.
How much lift did you put on?
Check tire pressure?
How are the roads that you typically drive on?
Does it do this 100% of the time or intermittent?

Blue Mule

I’m not sure on the right angle for the drag link or the pitman arms, any advice? But I did notice that my rack seems to have a leak so I’m sure that along with the tie rods seeming pretty worn could have a big part to play in this, correct?

 

[HStone33]

While I was out there I also measured the difference in the tie rod lengths and passenger side seems to be about 3/8 longer than the driver.

 

[McBroom]

Bils @ 1.8 or did you mean 2.8?
@JB1 is the resident suspension expert. But the tierods are most likely the culprit. I dont think that 1 being that 3/8" difference is gonna be the main problem.
When you were looking at the tie rods did you notice any up n down movement?
Are they the serviceable kind? Have a grease fitting on it.
If you jack the wheel up is there any play/abnormal movement??


Blue Mule

 

[JayLeonard]

That top pic looks funky to me. Looks like the right side tire is taking a turn.

 

[Lyle Longboat]

What size tires? I have this problem as well. I’m running 37” mud tires and have several alignments done this past year (2019). Each shop has given the perfect alignment, however only one has informed me that due to the larger tires and the 6” lift, the tires set to factory specs (as Fabtech lifts require) and that if they were to make the tires “straight” they argument would be way off. I suppose it compensating for the larger tires. The 6” lifts say to run 35” tops. Not sure if this is your issue or not. All my tires run well and are wearing evenly. I also run my tires at 24 PSI front and 26 Rear cold, unless I’m towing.

 

[Livinalittle]

This could be a stupid question but i'm going to throw it out there anyway; just for educations sake.

If your steering wheel needs to be at 1 o'clock to drive straight and your toe is in spec, could you not bring the drivers side tie rod in one turn and add a turn to the pass side without effecting the toe? If the test drive shows it needs more just repeat?

 

[HStone33]

Bils @ 1.8 or did you mean 2.8?
@JB1 is the resident suspension expert. But the tierods are most likely the culprit. I dont think that 1 being that 3/8" difference is gonna be the main problem.
When you were looking at the tie rods did you notice any up n down movement?
Are they the serviceable kind? Have a grease fitting on it.
If you jack the wheel up is there any play/abnormal movement??


Blue Mule

Looking at the pic I think they’re on the 2.1 setting because you can see three unused rings? I’m ashamed because I put them on myself and I can’t remember for the life of me. There’s no up and down movement I checked that. One just flops left and right essentially and the other has a little more sturdiness but not much. They are not the serviceable kind so I would most likely replace them with one. There’s isn’t any abnormal movement vertically but there’s a tiny bit of play horizontally. No squeak or noise in ball joint.

 

[HStone33]

What size tires? I have this problem as well. I’m running 37” mud tires and have several alignments done this past year (2019). Each shop has given the perfect alignment, however only one has informed me that due to the larger tires and the 6” lift, the tires set to factory specs (as Fabtech lifts require) and that if they were to make the tires “straight” they argument would be way off. I suppose it compensating for the larger tires. The 6” lifts say to run 35” tops. Not sure if this is your issue or not. All my tires run well and are wearing evenly. I also run my tires at 24 PSI front and 26 Rear cold, unless I’m towing.

I’m running 35x12.50x20. I run my tires much higher. Around 32-35, I tow constantly.

 

[HStone33]

This could be a stupid question but i'm going to throw it out there anyway; just for the educations sake.

If your steering wheel needs to be at 1 o'clock to drive straight and your tow is in spec, could you not bring the drivers side tie rod in one turn and add a turn to the pass side without effecting the toe? If the test drive shows it needs more just repeat?

I was thinking this but I was afraid to tweak it myself. I know toe is easy to do and fix but I didn’t wanna start throwing wrenches on stuff before asking. I definitely wouldn’t of thought to also do the passenger side.

 

[Gary2]

Air Pressure is probably too low for a truck weighing what they do. Also a couple times I had a pull no one could figure out and was told to switch the front tires side to side left on right and right on left and it did work. I have no clue why but it did. Camber can cause a pull if the setting don't match on each side. Caster on the right front should be slightly higher than the left also but on a straight axle that is already built into it

 

[HStone33]

Air Pressure is too low or a truck weighing what they do. Also a couple times I had a pull no one could figure out and was told to switch the front tires side to side left on right and right on left and it did work. I have no clue why but it did. Camber can cause a pull if the setting don't match on each side. Caster on the right front should be slightly higher than the left also but on a straight axle that is already built into it

Pressure matches all around but I guess I can try bumping it up. The tire swap is a good idea too, I’ll do that tomorrow. I have the old print out of the last alignment so I’ll check the specs compared to what you said. Appreciate it!

 

[Lyle Longboat]

One of the shops here in Canada, crappy tire, tried switching my front tires around with no success. My steering wheel is a little cocked to the left when driving straight.
Going with bigger tires has its down falls. lol

 

[HStone33]

One of the shops here in Canada, crappy tire, tried switching my front tires around with no success. My steering wheel is a little cocked to the left when driving straight.
Going with bigger tires has its down falls. lol

I agree completely haha. Last thing I wanna do is ruin a set of tires because we all know how fun it is paying for those.

 

[Lyle Longboat]

I’m going to 35”S on 24”S I think. Getting tired of paying out cash due to the 37”S. Look nice and work off road great, but I’m not out every week and use as a daily from time to time.