Trick to folding seat down

[MarshRam]

It's a qbomb box for 12s.

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Yep, exact same box I have. My build thread, linked in signature has the precise washers I used. You did do all 4 corners, right? I'll take a peak at my truck when I get home today and see if I can observe any difference in the way the box rests and clearance compared to your pics.

 

[AngryRams]

Do you have a crew cab? Year? Mine is quad and 2015

Yep, exact same box I have. My build thread, linked in signature has the precise washers I used. You did do all 4 corners, right? I'll take a peak at my truck when I get home today and see if I can observe any difference in the way the box rests and clearance compared to your pics.

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[MarshRam]

Do you have a crew cab? Year? Mine is quad and 2015

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Yeah, I do have a crew cab, 2014.

 

[AngryRams]

Yeah, I do have a crew cab, 2014.

The box is meant for a crew cab 02-2014 [emoji23]

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[McBroom]

Do you have a crew cab? Year? Mine is quad and 2015

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18 2500 4x4 offroad CC Blue Streak Pearl.
I'll be doing the fold down mod today

I Love my 18 Ram 2500 4x4 CC U.S.M.C.(ret) CPL

 

[AngryRams]

18 2500 4x4 offroad CC Blue Streak Pearl.
I'll be doing the fold down mod today

I Love my 18 Ram 2500 4x4 CC U.S.M.C.(ret) CPL

Hopefully it's not like my truck... Which just had to be different.. SMH... I'm gonna do the amp rack as soon as I get my 4 or 5 channel... Haven't decided yet and mount em... Then putting it back down.

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[McBroom]

Hopefully it's not like my truck... Which just had to be different.. SMH... I'm gonna do the amp rack as soon as I get my 4 or 5 channel... Haven't decided yet and mount em... Then putting it back down.

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I'm doing mine so that I can put the tackle box under the seat along with my 300 blackout.

I Love my 18 Ram 2500 4x4 CC U.S.M.C.(ret) CPL

 

[MarshRam]

The box is meant for a crew cab 02-2014 [emoji23]

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I could be wrong, but I would not think that would make a difference on your clearance issue. As the box steps down and thins out from front to back, it looks like front bolts are lined up under the second step of your box. I'll check mine for you tonight and see if I am lined up the same.

 

[AngryRams]

I could be wrong, but I would not think that would make a difference on your clearance issue. As the box steps down and thins out from front to back, it looks like front bolts are lined up under the second step of your box. I'll check mine for you tonight and see if I am lined up the same.

Yeah, who knows... My ride seems to just have subtle differences

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[MarshRam]

I don't know. We are lined up the same. Must have something to do with the height or some other small.difference in the back.

Here are some pics from mine for reference and a few observations.

Seat folded down completely. Yours appears it should go down a little more. I might suggest ensuring your raise height is approximately 3/4" on all 4 corners, no lower, no higher. Yes, the seat does touch the box, but it is down completely, so the box is not supporting the seat or passenger in it. Nobody can sit in it and potentially damage my speaker.





Here is a pic of the box slightly moving up out of the cubbys and no longer sitting flush. It will fall flush when I lift the seat. This is when the seat is folded down completely. It is the rear of the seat causing this, where no weight from a passenger would interfere, so no issues.

Everything looks level. I might also suggest you look and see if the back of the box on each corner are resting on the floor and don't have the large white electrical connector between them. Those need to be moved to the side.


Build thread link, all the info is in posts from April 8th.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/marshrams-murdered-2014-slt.117936/

Hope you can get it sorted out. I like the box, sounds great.

 

[AngryRams]

It won't fold completely because the box is resting on both front and back part of the bracket for the seat...

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[MarshRam]

Well, that sucks. Either model or year or both must have about 1/8 difference or so between the bracket and seat.

I don't think they have specs right on those boxes anyway. Who knows, your mold could be slightly thicker than mine. Shop I bought it from said it would fit without the seat mod. When they told me that they thought they were doing my entire install, I decided against. Not sure what their plan was going to be when they found out they were wrong, seat was cocked almost 45 degrees, nobody was going to be able to sit on that. I guess I would have got a phone call, "uhh, we got a problem" lol...

 

[AngryRams]

Well, that sucks. Either model or year or both must have about 1/8 difference or so between the bracket and seat.

I don't think they have specs right on those boxes anyway. Who knows, your mold could be slightly thicker than mine. Shop I bought it from said it would fit without the seat mod. When they told me that they thought they were doing my entire install, I decided against. Not sure what their plan was going to be when they found out they were wrong, seat was cocked almost 45 degrees, nobody was going to be able to sit on that. I guess I would have got a phone call, "uhh, we got a problem" lol...

Lol

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[gofishn]

cut your back clips or holders. search the forum for pics on exactly where to tim. Must cut ever so lightly into the white p lastic that covers the metal hooks.

 

[AngryRams]

cut your back clips or holders. search the forum for pics on exactly where to tim. Must cut ever so lightly into the white p lastic that covers the metal hooks.

I just saw a post on that.

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[Roaster]

I am having the same issue on my 2018 except I haven't tried raising the seat yet. I cut the clips in the back probably about a quarter inch into the white plastic and the seat still won't come forward without loosening the seat bolts and raising it up a bit.

 

[gofishn]

I am having the same issue on my 2018 except I haven't tried raising the seat yet. I cut the clips in the back probably about a quarter inch into the white plastic and the seat still won't come forward without loosening the seat bolts and raising it up a bit.

then you need to a little higher.

the purpose of the spacers under the seat, is so when you lift the bottom of the seat, the seat back also rises and clears the clasp , mounted on the back wall. the other way to have the metal hooks, on the back of the seat itself, clear the clasp mounted to the back wall, is for the hooks themselves to be trimmed enough, so when the bottom seat lifts up, the hooks can clear the back wall mounting.

either way will work. benefit of the spacer under the seat bolts is it can be undone and none the wiser. trimming the seat back hooks is not reversible.

also, benefit of raising the seat bottom by spacers is now there is more room under the seat, when it is down position, for sunshades and the like. however, if doing the spacers, I would recommend buying replacement seat bolts that are slightly longer than OEM so the seat is secured, to the floor of the cab, as designed.

In case of catastrophe, if given a choice between the seat coming undone, by the rear of the seat moving forward, while the seat base is still anchored to the cabs floor by bolts, or the seat base coming undone from the cab floor itself, I know which one I would prefer. if the seat back should come forward, the seat belts would help to restrain any passenger and the seat back itself. If the entire set becomes detached from the floor, acct too short bolts, all bets are off.

Hence the suggestion for replacing the OEM bolts, with longer versions, if using spacers.

 

[McBroom]

then you need to a little higher.

the purpose of the spacers under the seat, is so when you lift the bottom of the seat, the seat back also rises and clears the clasp , mounted on the back wall. the other way to have the metal hooks, on the back of the seat itself, clear the clasp mounted to the back wall, is for the hooks themselves to be trimmed enough, so when the bottom seat lifts up, the hooks can clear the back wall mounting.

either way will work. benefit of the spacer under the seat bolts is it can be undone and none the wiser. trimming the seat back hooks is not reversible.

also, benefit of raising the seat bottom by spacers is now there is more room under the seat, when it is down position, for sunshades and the like. however, if doing the spacers, I would recommend buying replacement seat bolts that are slightly longer than OEM so the seat is secured, to the floor of the cab, as designed.

In case of catastrophe, if given a choice between the seat coming undone, by the rear of the seat moving forward, while the seat base is still anchored to the cabs floor by bolts, or the seat base coming undone from the cab floor itself, I know which one I would prefer. if the seat back should come forward, the seat belts would help to restrain any passenger and the seat back itself. If the entire set becomes detached from the floor, acct too short bolts, all bets are off.

Hence the suggestion for replacing the OEM bolts, with longer versions, if using spacers.

Want needed on my 18

I Love my 18 Ram 2500 4x4 CC U.S.M.C.(ret) CPL

 

[muddy12]

On my 2012, I only had to cut the brackets flush with the plastic. (Comes out to right at 5/8” removed)

The back stays latched unless the seat bottom is in exactly this position.

I had tried spacers, but spacers caused latching issues with the storage lids.
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[PaPa_Brewskey]

I'm just curious here. My Owners manual shows the "Fold Down back seat" as an option, showing release latches for the catches on the back wall. Are these Latches available, and can they be swapped out? Would that be a viable option to raising and shaving?