troutspinner’s Budget SQ 2014 Crew Cab Build

[BradKnob]

I already know a 3 way active setup and DSP will find its way into the future budget.

dammit boy!!! I like the way u think. And you will soon find out that this dark road to audiophile worthy sound never ends.



Good job on the wiring also. That will def come In handy. I have a mechanism in my brain that won't allow me to think that far down the road

 

[popjim52]

Cant wait to hear about your results......

 

[troutspinner]

The results are in! But! A DOA amp has got me in the dumps. . I was able to make all of my final connections today, turned the truck on and was rewarded with music! For 10 seconds and then the amp blew its fuses.

I checked all of my wiring, ins and outs were fine, power and ground were solid. I disconnected all ins and outs with the exception of 1 in (auto sense turn on), replaced the fuses, turned on the ignition and the same thing, fuses blew again.

Nonetheless, I tied my HU wires into my new speakers in the back of the cab and they sound really good. I filled out an RMA for a replacement. Oddly enough, I've read of another reviewer having this same issue, I wonder if I got his return!

Stay tuned!

 

[BradKnob]

Wow dude. That's gotta be so damn annoying. Where u buy the amp from?

 

[troutspinner]

Sonicelectronix. And yes it is, especially because I kept thinking "what did I screw up". I know my wiring is good, I know I have no grounding issues, no chafing issues, I know that everything currently works. When you can get something to turn on for a few seconds before a fuse blows you wonder what is screwed up on your end.

I can't wait to get some watts to those speakers. I got to listen to them for about 30 minutes this evening, they are very detailed and the stage height is quite nice just running off stock.

 

[troutspinner]

Just a post about how I got the signals from my HU for my amp with high inputs. I went to the back of the HU and used posi-lock connectors at the harness. I then ran these lines from the front of the vehicle to the rear. From that point, I have control to go high into an amp, a DSP or a LOC. If ever I want to remove the equipment from my truck, I can just unscrew one side of the posi-lock connector and re-attach the existing wire.

While I do not like cutting into factory wiring, there is no harness available yet for our vehicles with a 8.4a/8.4an. I did research getting the connectors on my own and building my own harness, it is achievable but I would have to buy the connectors, the pins, a tool to crimp the pins, etc. and it was cost prohibitive.

Here is a pic of the result. Notice the heat shrink "nub" with the zip tie on it. Those are the existing wires that I could reconnect should I ever need.

I really like these posi-lock connectors. They are really strong, re-usable and make quite a nice connection. Look at the photo below how the wire forms around a conical pin, pretty nice connection.

 

[Cummins H.O.]

What did you think of those posi-lock connectors?

 

[autokraftgt]

Just a post about how I got the signals from my HU for my amp with high inputs. I went to the back of the HU and used posi-lock connectors at the harness. I then ran these lines from the front of the vehicle to the rear. From that point, I have control to go high into an amp, a DSP or a LOC. If ever I want to remove the equipment from my truck, I can just unscrew one side of the posi-lock connector and re-attach the existing wire.

While I do not like cutting into factory wiring, there is no harness available yet for our vehicles with a 8.4a/8.4an. I did research getting the connectors on my own and building my own harness, it is achievable but I would have to buy the connectors, the pins, a tool to crimp the pins, etc. and it was cost prohibitive.

Here is a pic of the result. Notice the heat shrink "nub" with the zip tie on it. Those are the existing wires that I could reconnect should I ever need.

I really like these posi-lock connectors. They are really strong, re-usable and make quite a nice connection. Look at the photo below how the wire forms around a conical pin, pretty nice connection.

This will help A LOT of people...thanks for sharing the details with pics!
Hope your amp replacement is smooth sailing and in a timely matter....I know how that goes

 

[troutspinner]

What did you think of those posi-lock connectors?

I did comment above the last photo. Bottom line, the best solution I've ever used making stereo connections. I am a fan of solder and shrink tube but after using these, the ease, solid connection and speed, they can't be beat.

Here is another testament angle. Saturday after I finished up working on the truck. I sat down at the computer and ordered two more packs of connectors. I have no need for them now but I want them on hand for any future possibilities.

 

[troutspinner]

Sonicelectronix got back to me first thing this morning with the RMA process. Unfortunately, they do not have any more in stock and will not be receiving any others as the product has been discontinued. That sucks but they also let me RMA the sub amp I received from them as well as it affects my equipment needs because the amp handled the high inputs, x-overs and output to the sub amp.

So now here I sit, I've already shipped off the equipment wondering what my approach should be. Any recommendations?

A 5 channel amp would fit the bill quite nicely but I am a priss when it comes to x-overs because I know my ears like a 24db x-over. The only amp I've found with x-overs that high were the JBL that is discontinued or the JL Audio HD900/5 and there is no way I am spending that amount!

Wants and needs I guess. Any 5 channel amp would do I guess if I used an LCQ or something but if you have suggestions, please suggest!

On the bright side, my Fox Box showed up today. Looks like a well built unit.

 

[Etroze86]

Oh that's a tall order there definetly not many amps out there with a 24db well not that's affordable. What were your power needs again I'm going to do some digging see what I can find for you.

 

[troutspinner]

Oh that's a tall order there definetly not many amps out there with a 24db well not that's affordable. What were your power needs again I'm going to do some digging see what I can find for you.

60 RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohm - though I would prefer 75-100 for a little wiggle room. Each channel is powering Focal 165 Access AS or AC.

300 RMS x 1 @ 4 Ohm for a 10" JL Audio 10W03-4. This I am sure I could be happy at 200 Watts.

Thanks for your help.

 

[troutspinner]

I Think I will post the same thing over at DIYMA. No disrespect, just more eyes, more help.

 

[Bkhsvt]

Check out the alpine pdx v9
100x4 and 500x1
I know the price is less than the jl amp by far...i like mine. Small, powerful and efficient

 

[Etroze86]

For the 24db filter I wasn't really able to find anything so that leaves you with whatever amp you would like to run.

 

[troutspinner]

Check out the alpine pdx v9
100x4 and 500x1
I know the price is less than the jl amp by far...i like mine. Small, powerful and efficient

Thank you for the suggestion. I was eyeing the next model down PDR-V75. The V9 is a little more than I wanted, a little overkill in power for sub and more than I want to spend at this time. The PDR-V75 however is right in line with the costs of the amps I just sent back.

Stats are not as good as the V9 but that's what a budget gets. But the PDR is nothing to sneeze at either, should be fine and get me where I want to be. With a coupon code it's at $333 with tax and shipping. Not too bad.

 

[Etroze86]

Be apposed to a skar audio 5 channel?

 

[troutspinner]

Be apposed to a skar audio 5 channel?

I did look at them etroze. I want class D in the smallest form factor I can find. PDR it is.

 

[Etroze86]

Good call can't say I've heard anything bad about the new pdr's

 

[Bkhsvt]

Good pick. Alpine makes great amps!