Uconnect 8.4 to Hi level input on Amp (Non Alpine)

[trivium91]

Hi guys i realize this has probably been a big topic for years and specifically since the new head units now need a load (resistors) to output signal to the speakers level outputs. I picked up a Net audio t harness and soldered some pigtails to go directly to my amp. Im using a HERTZ Dpower4 4 channel amp (No subs) with the factory wiring. I also upgraded the door speakers in the front to the mopar kickers since i dont have the alpine upgraded system. Loving the sound with my new HERTZ amp and you dont even need subs. At any rate the amp has an auto on feature when you use the Hi-level inputs however my issue is the Uconnect will not allow my amp to turn off! for some reason it's putting out a signal to the speaker outputs all the time that is causing my amp to not want to turn off. I pulled the radio fuse (which is not in the fuse box BTW but inline) just to confirm and sure enough the AMP turns off. Is there any reason the uconnect is putting out a speaker level signal? Also is there a workaround for this? I would hate to install a switch on my amp and have to turn it off and on every single time. If i use an LOC will it fix this issue? Im thinking that the only reason the amp wont turn off is because it has a very sensitive Auto turn on/off feature and there is a small amount of voltage that the Uconnect is putting out.

 

[88ROOK]

check the switch(if there is one) on the amp to make sure its not on low input. if it is, switch to high input and i bet it turns off

 

[TomT]

One possible way would be to turn off the auto-sense feature and instead wire a relay to the 12v remote turn-on lead on the amp. I have my work done at a shop so I can't give you details on exactly how to do that.

 

[88ROOK]

personal preference i would use the fosgate DSR1 and all problems fixed

 

[adrianp89]

Just run a remote wire to switch 12v....

 

[trivium91]

Yeah so the issue i have is there is not a switch to turn off the Auto sense...perhaps there is a jumper in the amp somewhere if i take it apart? It was the only amp that was small enough to fit in the compartment above the glove box right next to the head unit that actually had good specs (i removed the plastic cubby with the light permanently to house the amp. )

I could also just get a line out converter but does anyone know if these work since they also have built in amp turn on features...not sure if i would fair better with that. Sucks as i already soldered all the connections to the harness all nice and put heatshrink. The last alternative is to run a 12V relay inline of the fused 12V power and bring in a 12V ignition to trigger it on if thats at all possible.

Not sure why the Uconnect is running a signal to the speaker outputs even when its off. I've reset it and tried playing around with the settings and its the same...still wont allow the amp to turn off.

 

[adrianp89]

I pulled the manual - switch to LOC and go to RCA jacks and run a remote line to the amp. Or just switch amps... the Kicker PXA300.4 is smaller and puts out more power.

 

[trivium91]

I pulled the manual - switch to LOC and go to RCA jacks and run a remote line to the amp. Or just switch amps... the Kicker PXA300.4 is smaller and puts out more power.

Yeah i can do that but wouldn't it be easier to run a relay to just cut the power to the amp via the trigger 12V? Its cheaper than a Line out converter and likely easier since i wont have to resolder the T harness i bought? Also less wiring since i can likely do everything under the hood.

 

[adrianp89]

If you feel comfortable sending 20A through the relay... go for it. I have never done it - so I can't speak to that, but I would go with what is tried and true.

 

[trivium91]

If you feel comfortable sending 20A through the relay... go for it. I have never done it - so I can't speak to that, but I would go with what is tried and true.

Well it would be a separate Relay and i can just solder the wires directly to it...so not tapping into the fuse box except for the trigger power/ignition power. I should be able to wedge a small wire between the fuse blades.

 

[adrianp89]

I am not sure what you mean. If are cutting the main power to the amp, you would need your ACC trigger on 85, 86 on ground, 30 on your 12v from battery and then 87 to the amplifier.

 

[trivium91]

I am not sure what you mean. If are cutting the main power to the amp, you would need your ACC trigger on 85, 86 on ground, 30 on your 12v from battery and then 87 to the amplifier.

Yup thats what i was looking for, that should work perfect. Im powering off the battery anyways so i can do everything under the hood instead of ripping apart the dash again.