What to look for on a bad 65RFE valve body

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TheEnder

TheEnder

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great pic, man I hate that thing. However, ender has 500k on this tranny, hard to complain about anything.

exactly, it’s a POS thermostat but it’s whatever i guess. She’s lasted a long while.


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Hemi395

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exactly, it’s a POS thermostat but it’s whatever i guess. She’s lasted a long while.


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Yeah in your case I'd leave well enough alone[emoji106] Just something to keep in mind that can get stuck shut and overheat the trans...
 

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Yeah in your case I'd leave well enough alone[emoji106] Just something to keep in mind that can get stuck shut and overheat the trans...

I think he said his trans hit like 220f the other day. Id dump that thing and maybe forget about the t stat if it were me. I don't maybe I misread it.
 
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TheEnder

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Today the worst happened.

I started up the truck with the windows down because it was hot and i wanted to wait for the engine to warm up to turn the A/C on.

I put the truck into drive, immediately hear an extremely loud solenoid buzz, thought nothing of it, went around the block, and as soon as it tried to shift into 2nd, it went into limp home mode with a check engine light and would rev freely without acceleration, but i only went around the block so i was able to get home quickly without needing help.

I have either 3 codes or 4, i forgot if it was one or the other.

I got a Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio

Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor / Switch B Circuit Range Performance

Transmission Fluid Pressure Low

I had to drive up a incline to get into my driveway and it got up it, but once i tried to get up closer to my house the truck moved backwards and the engine revved to 1.2K RPMs with no movement.


I have yet to drop the pan for the (5th) time now but judging from the fluid alone i don’t see anything (knock on wood.) It’s bright red still. Did the seller give me a bad SP? I was reading up on the Gear 2 incorrect ratio and it says it could be a bad SP, i don’t think it’s mechanical as i’ve never had an issue with 2nd gear.


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TheEnder

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Would this have something to do with the Line Pressure Booster?


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I would pull the line booster off, clear the codes, and see what happens then. If it drives normally after that it's something to do with the booster. If it goes right into limp mode I would say it's a bad solenoid pack...
 
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TheEnder

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I would pull the line booster off, clear the codes, and see what happens then. If it drives normally after that it's something to do with the booster. If it goes right into limp mode I would say it's a bad solenoid pack...

Okay, will do, my only question is if the solenoid pack is bad and i drive on it with low line pressure won’t that completely destroy the internals?


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Okay, will do, my only question is if the solenoid pack is bad and i drive on it with low line pressure won’t that completely destroy the internals?


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I'm honestly not sure. But if it's a bad SP it I believe it should go into limp mode almost instantly...
 
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TheEnder

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I'm honestly not sure. But if it's a bad SP it I believe it should go into limp mode almost instantly...

I’m thinking that too, i’m gonna disconnect the LPB and then go into reverse and drive without actually moving the truck, and see if it sends any codes.


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Burla

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Today the worst happened.

I started up the truck with the windows down because it was hot and i wanted to wait for the engine to warm up to turn the A/C on.

I put the truck into drive, immediately hear an extremely loud solenoid buzz, thought nothing of it, went around the block, and as soon as it tried to shift into 2nd, it went into limp home mode with a check engine light and would rev freely without acceleration, but i only went around the block so i was able to get home quickly without needing help.

I have either 3 codes or 4, i forgot if it was one or the other.

I got a Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio

Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor / Switch B Circuit Range Performance

Transmission Fluid Pressure Low

I had to drive up a incline to get into my driveway and it got up it, but once i tried to get up closer to my house the truck moved backwards and the engine revved to 1.2K RPMs with no movement.


I have yet to drop the pan for the (5th) time now but judging from the fluid alone i don’t see anything (knock on wood.) It’s bright red still. Did the seller give me a bad SP? I was reading up on the Gear 2 incorrect ratio and it says it could be a bad SP, i don’t think it’s mechanical as i’ve never had an issue with 2nd gear.


Sent from Blue Onyx

Did you change spin on filter? If so are you confident you didnt put it on too tight. Kind of why I wanted the new VB to be put on with new SP, could be leakage.

Driving on low oil pressure is high risk behavior.

So you have 2 solenoids? Simple, get the right VB and put the other SP on it. Sorry this continues.

Did you try driving in tow haul?
 
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TheEnder

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Did you change spin on filter? If so are you confident you didnt put it on too tight. Kind of why I wanted the new VB to be put on with new SP, could be leakage.

I changed the spin on filter and i’m 100% sure it’s not too tight. I’m thinking leakage too, but it was fine yesterday, and i don’t think it’ll just randomly blow overnight with the engine off though.


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TheEnder

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Did you change spin on filter? If so are you confident you didnt put it on too tight. Kind of why I wanted the new VB to be put on with new SP, could be leakage.

Driving on low oil pressure is high risk behavior.

Exactly in regards of the high risk.


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Was it fine when you started the truck, and later when warm the issue started?
 
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TheEnder

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Was it fine when you started the truck, and later when warm the issue started?

It was fine before it shifted into second. It jolted when it attempted to, and then kept attempting to shift into 2nd, and then went into limp home immediately, with the engine being able to rev freely and the truck not moving at all.


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Was it fine when you started the truck, and later when warm the issue started?

The solenoids are extremely loud which is making me think the seller gave me a bad SP, the other one had a sound that had the same tone and same duration each time it was put into drive but this SP takes around 5 seconds for the buzzing sound to stop and it’s a sound that gets louder and changes pitch.


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Burla

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Exactly in regards of the high risk.


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name it and it's at risk, torque converter- clutch packs, hot spots, etc etc.
 

Burla

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It was fine before it shifted into second. It jolted when it attempted to, and then kept attempting to shift into 2nd, and then went into limp home immediately, with the engine being able to rev freely and the truck not moving at all.


Sent from Blue Onyx

second gear when it was COLD this issue happened?

you have the second solenoid pack yes?
 

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