What winch do I need?

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diymirage

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Good morning guys

I am hoping I buy a winch for the truck this Friday

The truck is a '17 2500 SLT, 5.7 so about 7000 pounds?

Add a plow to it and we're looking at 8k

Now, the vision I have is to have a winch I can leave in the bed and pop on when needed

The three scenarios I see where I might need is is when I slide of the pad when plowing and get stuck in the soft grass, when I slide off the road after hitting some black ice, or when I pass pass by some girl (sorry, ladies, but so far it has always been a girl) who slid off into the ditch

Most of those scenarios I see the winch being operated from the rear of my truck, but I intend to figure out a front hitch mount and simply mount the winch to a cradle that goes in the reciever...that was I can mount it in the front or the back

Now, having said this, what winch do I need?

Is there a rule of thumb for capacity vs vehicle weight ?

I Don't see me using this more then a few times a year, so I don't need the top of the line, but at the same time, I need it to work when I need it

Oh, having used a steel cable winch on an ATV once, I'm thinking nylon rope will be more hassle free, am I right or are they not up to what I want to do with it?
 

tron67j

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The only advice I have is use a multiple of 1.3 to calculate the winch pulling power. So if you are thinking 8,000 pounds of weight, account for the resistance of mud and snow by multiplying that by at keast 1.3, which equals 11,000 pounds of pulling power (rounded up). So aim for something a bit higher to not max out your winch. Good luck!
 

rzr6-4

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I have very limited experience with winches, but my main concern with getting our old honda rubicon stuck what that it had a winch, but it was cable. You could get yourself out but had to deal with the punishment of the frayed cable stabbing you the entire time. I would probly roll the dice on a synthetic.

I saw someone on here with a power wagon with a factory winch w/ synthetic rope, I think he pulled his out every 6 months or something like that to oil it, helping to keep it in good shape.
 

62Blazer

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I would probably say a 12,000 lb. winch would handle anything. However a smaller 9k version would probably be plenty for most of the circumstances you would be in. If you have just have the front tires hung up off the side of a parking lot or slid into a slick ditch it doesn't require the force of the entire weight of the truck to get it going again.
You probably already have taken this into consideration, but a 12k winch on a cradle weighs a LOT. I would expect over 100 lbs. If you are stuck down in a snow filled ditch it would be pretty fun to fish an 100 lb. chunk out of the bed and get it hooked up to the receiver.
You will also need some pretty serious power cables to hook up to at the back of the truck. A 12k winch can pull upwards of 400 amps.
Big price difference in winches, such as between a Harbor Freight version and a something like a Warn. Things to look at are cable length and power draw. Cheaper versions often come with a lot less cable length and the motors pull more power because they are not as efficient.
 

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My thinking might be screwed up go with the biggest you can settle on for cost and fitment. Better to have too much than enough. Which works harder, a winch at near max or one that is only at 50%? When I had the Jeeps, 1.5x was the "norm" and I sent synthetic all the way. There was discussions on using a winch cover to protect the synthetic line from UV and overall damage.
 
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diymirage

diymirage

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I would probably say a 12,000 lb. winch would handle anything. However a smaller 9k version would probably be plenty for most of the circumstances you would be in. If you have just have the front tires hung up off the side of a parking lot or slid into a slick ditch it doesn't require the force of the entire weight of the truck to get it going again.
You probably already have taken this into consideration, but a 12k winch on a cradle weighs a LOT. I would expect over 100 lbs. If you are stuck down in a snow filled ditch it would be pretty fun to fish an 100 lb. chunk out of the bed and get it hooked up to the receiver.
You will also need some pretty serious power cables to hook up to at the back of the truck. A 12k winch can pull upwards of 400 amps.
Big price difference in winches, such as between a Harbor Freight version and a something like a Warn. Things to look at are cable length and power draw. Cheaper versions often come with a lot less cable length and the motors pull more power because they are not as efficient.
I had not given weight much of a though, Thanks for pointing that out

The truck is set up for a rear plow, so in the back end I got a great plug in point
 

Docwagon1776

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You're going to mount it and unmount it as needed, it sounds like, so weight matters. Remember you aren't trying to lift the truck vertically and you can always rig pullies to multiple the force. If you're willing to take the time to rig better, you can get by with less powerful equipment.

I learned this for heavy recovery, like pulling a tank off something that high centered it, but the same applies to using any "underpowered" winch to make it more effective.

Just a simple example that would require two snatch blocks and sufficient line: Imagine the black line is your bumper. A snatch block is attached to the recovery point represented by the black dot on the left and your winch is the black dot on the right. The snatch block with the "W" attached is hooked to whatever anchor you are using (tree, etc) and then the red arrow head would ideally be hooked to a different tree nearby to spread out the force, but if it's a big sturdy boi and you trust it, it could be the same anchor point.

532px-Pulley1a.svg.png

This is *usually* overkill for truck winches but you can rig several pullies together and even a hand winch will move your truck. You are trading required pulling force for time, basically, so you can move more weight but it'll move slower as a given length of line pulled in will move the vehicle a shorter distance with each added wheel in the pulley system.

*SO* this doesn't answer your question, but gives you another decision point to consider before making your choice if you want/need a heavy winch (or a powered winch at all vs a hand winch).
 
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diymirage

diymirage

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You're going to mount it and unmount it as needed, it sounds like, so weight matters. Remember you aren't trying to lift the truck vertically and you can always rig pullies to multiple the force. If you're willing to take the time to rig better, you can get by with less powerful equipment.

I learned this for heavy recovery, like pulling a tank off something that high centered it, but the same applies to using any "underpowered" winch to make it more effective.

Just a simple example that would require two snatch blocks and sufficient line: Imagine the black line is your bumper. A snatch block is attached to the recovery point represented by the black dot on the left and your winch is the black dot on the right. The snatch block with the "W" attached is hooked to whatever anchor you are using (tree, etc) and then the red arrow head would ideally be hooked to a different tree nearby to spread out the force, but if it's a big sturdy boi and you trust it, it could be the same anchor point.

View attachment 576119

This is *usually* overkill for truck winches but you can rig several pullies together and even a hand winch will move your truck. You are trading required pulling force for time, basically, so you can move more weight but it'll move slower as a given length of line pulled in will move the vehicle a shorter distance with each added wheel in the pulley system.

*SO* this doesn't answer your question, but gives you another decision point to consider before making your choice if you want/need a heavy winch (or a powered winch at all vs a hand winch).
Thanks, I had not given snatch blocks much thought (though I mentioned it to the wife when we discussed this this morning)

They are in essence simple tackle blocks as have been used for ages to multiply force in farm and seafaring

From what little research I have done, I've found most 13500 pound winches come with 80-85 foot of line and weigh between 50 and 60 lbs

In essence, this whole winch deal is like my EDC, I hope to never need it but if I do I need to know it will work
 

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I know they have 4x4 clubs in mich, I think we got mud is from there, or Utah, I forget, good group not as active as they once were. You should find a group that does mudding and see what it takes to pull a truck out of the mud. Winch is pulling weight straight that isn't stuck, when you need to pull a truck out of mud even 2-3ft deep, your plan ain't gonna work. It is the weight your truck puts on the wire through the mud or if you are lucky pop you out of the mud, 7k good for a small truck maybe. Get the best brand you can as well like Warn or maybe super winch or whatever guys are saying these days. You really need to find someone that has pulled something out of mud to show you, hell they probably will do it for the fun of it.


Have a back up tow strap although I will tell you my strap is worn to the nub, I don't wheel anymore but still use that strap all the time every summer to pull cut logs up the hill. I will see if I can see the brand later, I kinda doubt it, but those tow straps are no joke. The back up is because if you ever snap it you know the truck needs to be dug on before trying again, the suction effect of a truck in the mud is no joke, use good equipment. Now we were always in places where tow trucks didn't go, when we lost a truck like snapping a drive line or something, we would have to tow it to the road for a tow truck to get it. Now if you plan on always being near established roads and tow trucks are a call away, then you could use the lesser choices and save some coin.
 

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If it helps, RAM uses a Warn Zeon 12-S winch on the Power Wagon. That's a pull capacity of 12,000 pounds with synthetic rope.
 

Docwagon1776

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Thanks, I had not given snatch blocks much thought (though I mentioned it to the wife when we discussed this this morning)

They are in essence simple tackle blocks as have been used for ages to multiply force in farm and seafaring

From what little research I have done, I've found most 13500 pound winches come with 80-85 foot of line and weigh between 50 and 60 lbs

In essence, this whole winch deal is like my EDC, I hope to never need it but if I do I need to know it will work

When I was debating on Raptor vs Tremor vs Power Wagon, I looked in to temporary winch solutions in case I went with the Fords. Tremor now has an OEM winch option, but didn't then and the Raptor doesn't since all that weight in front of the axle would kind of be antithesis to the Raptor's design philosophy.

One thing that came up a lot was to be real careful on angles if you're using a trailer hitch as a rear mounting point since they (and the tongue insert) aren't designed with strong lateral forces in mind.

Then add in the need to run power cables, figure out how to store it and not be concerned about theft when on the road and the truck was unattended for long periods of time at trailheads, etc. I'd thought to go manual winch and recovery boards which would likely have done me for anything I was likely to need as long as I wasn't in a hurry. I'd envisioned having two side by side to make it easier to ratchet and to reduce strain on each, but it was all theorycraft and I went with the PW so I can't say if I would have regretted that or not.
 
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diymirage

diymirage

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When I was debating on Raptor vs Tremor vs Power Wagon, I looked in to temporary winch solutions in case I went with the Fords. Tremor now has an OEM winch option, but didn't then and the Raptor doesn't since all that weight in front of the axle would kind of be antithesis to the Raptor's design philosophy.

One thing that came up a lot was to be real careful on angles if you're using a trailer hitch as a rear mounting point since they (and the tongue insert) aren't designed with strong lateral forces in mind.

Then add in the need to run power cables, figure out how to store it and not be concerned about theft when on the road and the truck was unattended for long periods of time at trailheads, etc. I'd thought to go manual winch and recovery boards which would likely have done me for anything I was likely to need as long as I wasn't in a hurry. I'd envisioned having two side by side to make it easier to ratchet and to reduce strain on each, but it was all theorycraft and I went with the PW so I can't say if I would have regretted that or not.
i will definitely have some recovery boards in there too

the winch would spend all of its "non operational" lifetime floating around in the bed

the power cable isnt an issue, it is there for the rear plow allready
 
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diymirage

diymirage

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Ritchie_Rich

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One that you can heft in and out of a receiver (assuming) under adverse circumstances. Probably will weigh 60-100lbs or so.
 

tron67j

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Lots of great advice here, and that comment on the lateral issue brings back a memory where a truck off the side of a logging trail needed to be winched back up. The side pull from the winch on the front bumper hitch caused frame damage. A tow vehicle with a mechanical advantage of different connection points would have been better.
 

Dean2

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My 2500 now has a Warn 16,500 lb winch with synthetic rope. My previous had a 10,000, and any amount of stuck needed 1 or 2 snatch blocks due to weight and drag. I carry 300 feet of extension cable and 5 snatch blocks plus tree straps and shackles.

This was the first winch, a Champion 16,000 with steel cable. It was inexpensive but I did not like the way it worked, slow line speed, wouldn't free spool properly etc. I went back to Warn, even though it was almost 3 times the price. I have always had Warns on my vehicles and never had issues. One of them I still have, is a 40 year old 8274 that is on a 1500 and the 30 year old 10,000 lb on my other 2500.

1764094843779.jpeg

If you have a plow on the front, permanently mount the winch on the back. With three snatch blocks and a couple of tree straps, you can easily pull the PU forward if you want to.

This is a front mounted winch, for rear mount just reverse the rigging.

1764094620759.png


Everybody thinks a receiver mounted winch is a great idea because you can use it front or back, doesn't work. Any hard side pull you will quickly see why. Receivers are meant to withstand straight forward and back force, side force not a good thing.
 
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62Blazer

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I think 50-60 lbs. is on the light side. Warn lists their 12k winches between 85-133 lbs. and Harbor Freight lists their 12k at 85 lbs. That also doesn't include the weight of the cradle. Big difference between 50 lbs. and 100 lbs.!
I've been off-roading/trailriding for 30 years on everything from ATV's, SxS's, and fullsize trucks. My fullsize Chevy off-road truck weighs 6,000 lbs. (1-ton axles with lockers, 40" tires, etc...) and has a 9k winch on it. Granted I don't go muddin' so it's not buried over the axles, but it has been stuck in ruts and other situations many times and a single line pull from the 9k has always gotten me out. I do carry a snatch block but have never had to use it (also have a snatch block I carry in the SxS and have never used it).
I did recommend a 12k winch, but will also say that for the OP's situation I just can't see them ever needing some dramatic amount of line pull. Not like they are swamp running and will bury the truck up the bumpers or be high centered on rocks in the middle of the Rubicon trail.
Regardless somebody should be familiar with the proper rigging and setup of a winch. Different angles and setups can make a big difference in how effective a winch is and how it pulls. For example only pulling out 10' of cable and running it at a sharp angle really reduces the pulling the power.
 
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