Wheel Bearing

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04fxdwgi

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On the ball joint, they are not indexed. It's just a tapered stud.

On the front wheels being in an odd position when lowered, that is normal. When wheels hang free, due to the geometry of the front end, they will they tilt inwards. When lowered, they hit the ground in an odd angle and will straighten out as soon as the vehicle moves.
 
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Orange_Ram

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On the ball joint, they are not indexed. It's just a tapered stud.

On the front wheels being in an odd position when lowered, that is normal. When wheels hang free, due to the geometry of the front end, they will they tilt inwards. When lowered, they hit the ground in an odd angle and will straighten out as soon as the vehicle moves.
ok thats good to know so the 200 degrees doesnt matter as much? and thanks I was worried I missed something causing that weird stance.
 

EdGs

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I'm the farthest thing from being an 'expert', but I would think the 200° extra might make a difference, but ashas been said, it is a tapered stud to begin with.

In the scheme of things, an extra 200° would correspond to ~1/2+ turn of the castle nut. But, if if the cotter pin is already in place, ???
 
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Orange_Ram

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First full update:
Alright guys yesterday Easter Sunday , I drove the truck for 20ish miles. Drove better especially at higher speeds, a lot of bumps and still did good with no noise. Today on my way to work the truck was driving good then started pulling to the left and the steering wheel started vibrating again. At certain bumps or cracks in the road truck would go pull to the right a bit which is unusual. On the way back home the problem was consistent and once I got home I checked both wheels and recorded to get some opinions. (if the videos are not able to be opened or played I can take screenshots and post it)

FIXED:
https://youtube.com/shorts/FQaQ1mmybu4?feature=share (balljoints)
https://youtube.com/shorts/XFJt15w5wy4 (driver side)
https://youtube.com/shorts/_nVPKzhHEHA?feature=share (passenger side)


-Are the lower ball joints suppose to look like that? Could it cause a problems?
-It wont let me post another video but the first picture is the driver side wheel which is the wheel bearing i just replaced. At 9 and 3 it moves a bit but theres no noise from the wheel bearing that i can tell. The inner tie rod does move a little when i do move the wheel at the 9 and 3.
-the second image is from the passenger side wheel and at 9 and 3 it does move a little but the tie rod does have a little more play than the driver side. I do plan on replacing this wheel bearing as well soon. Could this be an inner tie rod issue?


I do plan on going over the wheel bearing I just replaced to see if anything looks out of place. Since i have a 6 inch BDS kit, are there aftermarket inner and outer tie rods designed for this lift? I will appreciate any help given.
 

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Orange_Ram

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I'm the farthest thing from being an 'expert', but I would think the 200° extra might make a difference, but ashas been said, it is a tapered stud to begin with.

In the scheme of things, an extra 200° would correspond to ~1/2+ turn of the castle nut. But, if if the cotter pin is already in place, ???
yes the cotter pin in already in place but since I will most likely take wheel bearing apart this weekend , i will plan on doing the full torque time just to be safe.
 

Wild one

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First full update:
Alright guys yesterday Easter Sunday , I drove the truck for 20ish miles. Drove better especially at higher speeds, a lot of bumps and still did good with no noise. Today on my way to work the truck was driving good then started pulling to the left and the steering wheel started vibrating again. At certain bumps or cracks in the road truck would go pull to the right a bit which is unusual. On the way back home the problem was consistent and once I got home I checked both wheels and recorded to get some opinions. (if the videos are not able to be opened or played I can take screenshots and post it)

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui...attid=2AC49E0A-9886-4DC4-B474-BB0B99CF2AC4&zw

-Are the lower ball joints suppose to look like that? Could it cause a problems?
-It wont let me post another video but the first picture is the driver side wheel which is the wheel bearing i just replaced. At 9 and 3 it moves a bit but theres no noise from the wheel bearing that i can tell. The inner tie rod does move a little when i do move the wheel at the 9 and 3.
-the second image is from the passenger side wheel and at 9 and 3 it does move a little but the tie rod does have a little more play than the driver side. I do plan on replacing this wheel bearing as well soon. Could this be an inner tie rod issue?


I do plan on going over the wheel bearing I just replaced to see if anything looks out of place. Since i have a 6 inch BDS kit, are there aftermarket inner and outer tie rods designed for this lift? I will appreciate any help given.
Video doesn't work for me. Upload it to YouTube then put a link to the youtube video on here.
 

Grams

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yes the cotter pin in already in place but since I will most likely take wheel bearing apart this weekend , i will plan on doing the full torque time just to be safe.
I’m glad to see you plan to torque it properly, because YES….. It IS a BIG DEAL. The procedure is designed to achieve torque based upon a “starting point of 40 ft lbs….. because of the Taper.

PS: As an example, another participant (different forum in which I participate) now has difficulty locating a part for his classic car….someone previous had failed to properly torque the tie-rod to the steering knuckle and it “wallowed-out” the “taper” cone-shaped receptacle in that knuckle…which he cannot find due to obsolescence. A new tie rod cannot “fix” the problem.
 
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04fxdwgi

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Wow, is that front end loose. No wonder you are getting a wobble.

Up and own play is usually ball joints.
Side to side play is usually steering components
Play in any direction is usually wheel bearings.

Control arms add a 4th dynamic of play if they are bad.
 
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Dusty

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Saturday update:
Just finished replacing the wheel bearing about 2 hours ago. It was almost a 6 hour process. Taking the wheel hub mounting bolts was a pain and a half. Couldnt take any pictures of the after since it was night time. But these are the before pictures. A lot of rust as you can see. Took care of most of it. A couple things in mind still.
-I torque everything down. The only doubt was the upper ball joint. I tried to tighten it to the same spot it was before I took it off and the torque is 40 ft lb + 200 degrees but I forgot the extra 200 degrees. Is that a big issue?
-When bring the truck down from the jack stands, I noticed the front wheels where kind of leaning inwards but after I turned the truck on to see if the ABS light would come on, the wheels straighten it out a bit. I cannot put my figure on what could be causing it. Do I need to get it aligned again? Could it be a tire problem?
In addition, I will take the truck out for a drive tomorrow to see how it feels and take more pictures.
For a 2009 living in the Northeast, that amount of rust looks pretty normal.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 149573 miles.
 
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Orange_Ram

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Doooooood, do not drive that anymore. Your tire should not be wobbling around like that when nothing else is moving. Take the tires off and start inspecting. Looks like your lugs nuts are loose or something.
yea mane that thing look crazy, but I did take both front tires of lug nuts were tight since I ALWAYS torque em down to 130 ft lb. The studs on the passenger side does look kinda **** but I plan on replacing that wheel bearing either way. One big thing was that the driver side tire had inner tire wear and the other one had outter tire wear which is baffling.
 
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Orange_Ram

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I’m glad to see you plan to torque it properly, because YES….. It IS a BIG DEAL. The procedure is designed to achieve torque based upon a “starting point of 40 ft lbs….. because of the Taper.

PS: As an example, another participant (different forum in which I participate) now has difficulty locating a part for his classic car….someone previous had failed to properly torque the tie-rod to the steering knuckle and it “wallowed-out” the “taper” cone-shaped receptacle in that knuckle…which he cannot find due to obsolescence. A new tie rod cannot “fix” the problem.
ok thanks for the info. I double check everything is torque correctly this time around... fortunately nothing crazy happened
 
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Orange_Ram

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Wow, is that front end loose. No wonder you are getting a wobble.

Up and own play is usually ball joints.
Side to side play is usually steering components
Play in any direction is usually wheel bearings.

Control arms add a 4th dynamic of play if they are bad.
yea good thing as of right now is just steering component. i might pop out the outter tie rod when replacing the wheel bearing to make more space, is there a way I can check if they need replacement as well?
 
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Orange_Ram

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For a 2009 living in the Northeast, that amount of rust looks pretty normal.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 149573 miles.
yea i hate it here..
 

olyelr

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yea mane that thing look crazy, but I did take both front tires of lug nuts were tight since I ALWAYS torque em down to 130 ft lb. The studs on the passenger side does look kinda **** but I plan on replacing that wheel bearing either way. One big thing was that the driver side tire had inner tire wear and the other one had outter tire wear which is baffling.
Odd tire wear is baffling you?! Your tires are flopping around…of course you have odd tire wear!
 
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Orange_Ram

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Update:
Took out the wheel bearing that I just installed on the driver said. Torque everything correctly now, but still saw play in the steering area, looks like I will need to do inner and outer tie rods. I was looking at the UCA and I might need to replaced it sometime this year, I was looking at JBA and Core 4x4, which one would work for a bds 6 inch?

I did noticed the balljoints look like they need to be greased. What type of grease do ya recommend using?
 

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