Spark plug change interval?

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Docwagon1776

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I have a 2012, which originally came with copper plugs and a 32,000 mile interval for changes. FCA changed the recommendation to iridium, but I don't know when.

The plugs I had installed at 32,000 miles are: MOPAR SPLZFR5C11

The parts department told me they were "nickel" plugs. On this site: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ram,2012,1500,5.7l+v8,1502255,ignition,spark+plug,7212 it comes up as "Ruthenium" whatever that is.

I am at 65,000 miles so if it's the old style plugs it's time for a change, but the dealership wants nearly $400 now with the new plugs and I'm not super excited to contort myself around to do the driver's side ones myself. Can anyone advise what the recommended interval is for the above part number?
 

Firetruck41

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I'm not entirely sure, as I've seen some conflicting info, but I have seen reference to the fact that if you upgrade from cooper to iridium, you may need to upgrade the coil packs as well, which is expensive. I'm going to have to figure out the best path forward for my high miles 2010 soon. Sorry, I'm not much help!
 

daveray9

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BWL

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The new style plugs are a 65,000 mile interval to my knowledge. At least that's my understanding as I was told 100,000 kms. I've had 0 issue getting that many miles out of the copper ones though so if worried I'd stick to the original. The reports of guys getting a cel after upgrading seems like most have no issue, but some do. I believe the new style need a gap adjustment if using the original coil packs. Pulling wheels and liners is much easier access. On a related note. Who knows the torque spec for installation. Hate to strip a head or have one work its way out.
 
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Docwagon1776

Docwagon1776

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I have a 2012, they are nickel. Ram switched to iridium halfway through 2013..

What would they have installed in 2017, as that's when the above part number was installed on my truck. I get that it's a doable job, but I have nerve damage and get serious pain and spasms if I stretch the wrong way.
 

Burla

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The answer for nkg is 30k mile interval, although most seam fine much longer. Take your time dyi.
 

CVX20

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Check the owners handbook that came with it.It'll tell you what to use for your year and when to change it.When the manufacturers change types of plugs there's more to it than just throwing in a different type.Things like fuel mapping and timing advance etc....
 

daveray9

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What would they have installed in 2017, as that's when the above part number was installed on my truck. I get that it's a doable job, but I have nerve damage and get serious pain and spasms if I stretch the wrong way.
Im assuming ngk iridium? Those are 100k I think, but not 100% sure. Someone will chime in. I get the nerve damage thing, I strongly suggest going in from the fender liner and popping the tire then.

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Kraftei

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I did mine from the top. Took about 3 hours start to finish. I strongly suggest you do them yourself as a flat rate mechanic can do more harm then good.

Some helpful information

1) Gap the plugs, don't rely on what you get
2) Apply never seize
3) Blow the holes out before removing old plugs otherwise debris fulls into the engine, if you have leaking valve covers fix that first before removing plugs. * common cause of engine damage by not following these steps
4) Use electronic torque wrench 13 foot pounds, 15 with superchargers
5) Use dielectric grease on the electric connectors, boot ends and where they connect in the valve covers

IMG_3379.jpg

IMG_3380.jpg
 

Wild one

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I did mine from the top. Took about 3 hours start to finish. I strongly suggest you do them yourself as a flat rate mechanic can do more harm then good.

Some helpful information

1) Gap the plugs, don't rely on what you get
2) Apply never seize
3) Blow the holes out before removing old plugs otherwise debris fulls into the engine, if you have leaking valve covers fix that first before removing plugs. * common cause of engine damage by not following these steps
4) Use electronic torque wrench 13 foot pounds, 15 with superchargers
5) Use dielectric grease on the electric connectors, boot ends and where they connect in the valve covers

If you don't have one of these sockets and plan on changing anymore plugs ,it's well worth picking one up,i also find having an 1.5" or 1.75" 3/8"extension handy to with the socket.

https://www.amazon.ca/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK
 

Octane

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I changed out my coppers for iridiums and they are good for 100k.About 1.25 hrs diy labor.I've heard of some saying changing out coils but I never do.Dealer didnt seem to think it was necessary either.Factory coils are pretty good coils.Actually I didnt think it was too bad to change plugs Take your time and put a thick blanket on top of motor to lay across is what I did.
 
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Docwagon1776

Docwagon1776

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Check the owners handbook that came with it.It'll tell you what to use for your year and when to change it.When the manufacturers change types of plugs there's more to it than just throwing in a different type.Things like fuel mapping and timing advance etc....

I know what it came with and what the original recommendation is. My question is when did FCA change the recommendation to iridium, and with the part number in my OP does my truck *now* have Iridium or still have copper/nickel?
 

Wild one

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I know what it came with and what the original recommendation is. My question is when did FCA change the recommendation to iridium, and with the part number in my OP does my truck *now* have Iridium or still have copper/nickel?

Pull one front plug and see what you have,that'd be the obvious answer to me,lol
They started using irridiums about MY13 if i remember right.The plugs in your link look to be copper. Easy way to tell is look at the diameter of the center electrode,copper plugs will have a big diameter electrode,while irridium or platium plugs will have a tiny almost needle like center electrode.
 

Loudram

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For me I remove the plugs with a standard spark plug socket because the plugs gets stuck in it and it's easy to pull out. I install the new plug using a piece of hose to ensure I don't cross thread the plug. I turn it in until it stops and carefully tighten it down using a regular deep socket and torque wrench. That works for me and yes definitely blow out the spark plug wells before you pull the old plugs out.
 

DILLIGAF

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I do mine Every 2 years. The easiest way is thru the wheel wells. Also a 4 lift and 1.5" body lift sure helps a lot :) . Install those first...

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Bigskyroadglide

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My 11 was 30k intervals. At a 100k, I bought the iridiums on RockAuto for $165 for the set of 16 and changed the coils to 15 model year coils.

I now have 149,000 on my truck, with iridium plugs and don't expect to change them again to 200,000

I've had no issues & no lights on the dash. I run an i3 Diablo sport tuner with a 91 tune and I get 18 mi to the gallon.

You can use the iridiums in the truck however I do suggest you upgrade your coils to 15 or better.

Cheap out if you want but I figured it was easy insurance
 

rotwiler

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Had mine in my 2013 hemi Ram changed out at 45k, my 13 Ram is still the 6 speed and copper plugs. I noticed a big difference in smoothness and better power after the spark plugs change, but they looked ok. I have a mobile mechanic guy I use, for repairs I don't feel like doing since his prices are good, paid him $140 to replace plugs and install my front brake rotors and pads, took him about 2 hours to do both. Was only his second time doing plug change on a Ram, but he said was pretty easy, I know I don't want to climb in there to do them. I think mid 2013 when they switched to the 8 speed is when they started putting iridium plugs in.
 
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