Possible lifter/cam failure

[WadXpress]

2014 Ram 1500 77k miles
Full synthetic PUP since new
Always used 91 or 93 octane
I've been getting P0306 code. I tried swapping plugs and coil to a different cylinder and drove 50 feet and it threw the code again. So I believe my next step is pulling the valve cover and checking to see if the valves open up on cylinder 6 as much as the others.

I talked to a local shop flyin Ryan recommended and they think I should do a motor swap instead of a cam swap if their is a lifter/cam failure since they don't know how far metal shavings have gotten. I understand the thinking in 10k miles I don't want to have to replace the motor or top end again.
Which route would you guys go? Thanks for any advice

 

[WadXpress]

Cylinder 6 spark plugs

 

[Fast69Mopar]

2014 Ram 1500 77k miles
Full synthetic PUP since new
Always used 91 or 93 octane
I've been getting P0306 code. I tried swapping plugs and coil to a different cylinder and drove 50 feet and it threw the code again. So I believe my next step is pulling the valve cover and checking to see if the valves open up on cylinder 6 as much as the others.

I talked to a local shop flyin Ryan recommended and they think I should do a motor swap instead of a cam swap if their is a lifter/cam failure since they don't know how far metal shavings have gotten. I understand the thinking in 10k miles I don't want to have to replace the motor or top end again.
Which route would you guys go? Thanks for any advice

There is no reason to throw away a good motor with a bad cam and lifters. You will already have the heads off to access the lifters. Pull the oil pan and inspect the crank and bearings for metal intrusion and go from there.

Worst case scenario you pull the motor and disassemble, hot tank cleaning at the machine shop and repair/replace any parts with damage or unacceptable wear.

 

[Ludville1]

In my case with 158K on the engine, I would for sure do an engine swap. So far no problems, and the truck runs really strong.

 

[Burla]

DYI cam thread.

You have to be specific about prices they would want motor swap versus cam/lifters job. Since you don't have to take engine out, I have to imagine a cam job would be way less. No way to know how the cam was worn, it seams like most of these show smoothed out lobes where I wouldn't worry too much about the metal. Others where the needle bearings fail have chunks of metal. It is likely either way you have been having some metal rolling around and your engine has worked just fine, only when the cam wore to a point it barely touched lifter roller did you throw a code. My vote would be cam and lifters, but yeah there is some risk. See if the dyi is a possibility, costs way less for that one.

I bet with such low miles pistons are good as is. Maybe boroscope the chamber, maybe sea foam it. Look into hemi tick threads for a lubrication strategy as well, wont do much good this time but with new cam try something different.

 

[grizzstang]

If it turns out you need a cam and lifters I would do that if there are no other issues with the motor.

Were you running 5W20 PUP in your truck?

 

[HEMIMANN]

Absolutely try to assess motor condition 1st.....did you stop running immediately after lifter / cam failure? Or did you thump it for awhile. That determines likelihood of internal damage, and borescoping is necessary to confirm.

Cam and lifter replacement is 1/2 cost of entire engine. I have not seen failure reports on anything else on Hemi engines, so inspection is key. $4,500 versus $9,000 is a big deal. I presume it's no longer under warranty after 7 years (unless you had an extended lifetime warranty).

Also I don't recall other PUP lifter failures. With only 80 ppm moly, I assume this wasn't enough. Which is why many of us have gone to Red Line for the extra moly and clinginess of the ester base oil. And no excess idling.

 

[Treburkulosis]

How long has the tick be there? Lets start there. Burla knows his stuff. I got the tick for a little bit around 63k and I did seafoam in the crank case for 100 miles at 60mph followed by switching to Castrol edge with a puralator boss filter. I am at 140k and never again has it returned. Oil pressure is excellent and it pulls so well. Lots of power in that motor.

 

[PoMansRam]

Are you the original owner? Sounds like you kept up on maintenance and it's not like it's been ticking/tapping forever and giving the misfire code. Plus it's only got 77K on it. I'd do like suggested. Inspect what you can and swap the cam and lifters.

My guess is that shop you went to figures it's easier and less changes of issues/come-backs by doing an whole engine swap.

 

[burner71]

do you actually feel the truck act up when it throws the code?
ive seen errant misfire codes that werent actual misfires at all and had them tuned out.

 

[Hemi395]

Pull the VVT solenoid and see if there's metal in there. If not you're generally good to repair the cam/lifters. If there's metal in there it's recommended you change the whole motor...

 

[WadXpress]

I can feel the motor shaking from the misfire.

I am the original owner

I didn’t know about this being a issue til I came back to the forum. I thought it was just time for plugs or a bad coil pack, so I have driven it some including a trip from Vegas to San Jose and back for work. The engine light and code would clear itself so I didn’t think it was anything major.

 

[Burla]

It is fatal, just a matter of time. It is rare where the cam fails right away, you will get a mis fire here and there, especially when oil is hot. One of these days, likely soon, the cam lob will be worn to nub and it wont hit the lifter. It is a rather large known issue with the hemi, the fact the ride was rough will mis fire, you better plan on doing this soon if you need this as a daily. Sorry for your troubles..

 

[Burla]

Now that your truck is old, use a ram forum lubrication strategy. Things to consider, heavy EP additive oils, high viscosity and better base oils. It is too late to try now, but if if are interested, let me know and I will provide you the links. So far knock woods ten years we have not needed any cams in a group of guys with hemi tick, is that something or what? 100's of rams, somewhere between 1 and 2 hundred ram forum members with hemi tick, no cam fails, knock wood.

 

[WadXpress]

@Burla I will definitely get with you about oil and additives. I know about the thread but it is huge.

I don’t want this issue again obviously. What do you guys think I should do if I swap the motor their are a few option.

a local machine shop will put a 5.7 short block together for 2500 bucks plus aftermarket cam/lifter kit and whatever else I need I’d be in to the Motor 5k

just go buy a junkyard 5.7 low miles about 3k

I did see a low mile 6.4 BGE from a Ram 2500 for 5500 a few hours from me. From some stuff I’ve read it doesn’t seem like a bad swap.
I don’t have the room to do the work so I would have to find a shop to do it. So their will also be that cost

 

[WadXpress]

Do the 6.4 BGE motors have any known issues? Would you go with the truck motor over the car 6.4?
The truck BGE I found has 7k miles for 5500

 

[Burla]

These threads are specific and much shorter. Wow that 5k offer sounds really good to be honest, are they reputable? Looks like machine shop for the win, any miles warranty with that? even 12 mos that would be solid.

Redline killed tick poll.

Lubegard killed tick Poll.

 

[WadXpress]

These threads are specific and much shorter. Wow that 5k offer sounds really good to be honest, are they reputable? Looks like machine shop for the win, any miles warranty with that? even 12 mos that would be solid.

Redline killed tick poll.

Lubegard killed tick Poll.

I talked to him about building the short block he quoted 2500. Use my heads. A cam kit with lifters and everything I need like gaskets head bolts etc from FRP for example was 1900. So I think 5k is a good approximation. The shop has been in Vegas a long time. Lasvegasmachineshop.com

 

[HEMIMANN]

Do the 6.4 BGE motors have any known issues? Would you go with the truck motor over the car 6.4?
The truck BGE I found has 7k miles for 5500

6.4 same issue, same lifters as 5.7. You need truck 6.4 - it has some features set up for low end torque under heavy load.

 

[pastorjeep]

My cam went at 143K. I was a 3k oil change guy and had gotten that far without issue and then the miss showed up. Budget and transportation didn't allow me to do anything but flush the engine and put it back together (full RR in 24hr) with new cam and lifters. I noticed that every one of the cam lobes had plating flaking off and have concluded it is not the lifters failing but the cam itself that then eats the lifters. Lots of brake clean and clean out the oil pan then startup oil and change after 2-3 days of normal driving then at 500 miles and again at 1k. I am at 10k on repair and she runs great. I am using 15w40 full syn. Hoping the diesel high pressure additives help. Pull your valve cover and you will see if one rocker is not moving the same.