P0303 Question

[Greg8444]

not likely, it isnt a cam issue, we have paper on it- metallurgy tested worn cam, the metal is fine. It is a lubrication issue, my guess is both additive issue and flow issue combined. The issue will follow with the new engine as well, they use cores from old hemi's. Crates wont help either, those are the engines that are currently failing on the board. Two things will help, develop a lubrication strategy we have on the board, search hemi tick, or be part of the larger group that for whatever reason don't have this issue. Nobody knows how many cams are gonna fail, but unprofessional guess would be about 10%. I would consider warranty when deciding because of this issue.

Thanks again for the info. I'll definitely look into the lubrication strategy- I've always used full syn 5W-20 and changed oil & filter at 5k (+/- a few), figured that would be sufficient.

 

[Burla]

Filtration flow and efficiency, additives within oil formulas, and viscosity are all things to consider. Depends how far down the rabbit hole you feel like going here at ram forum. Or you could just use redline 5w30 and a royal purple 20-820, I have not found anything better. You can go longer with the oci to offset costs. I'd rather have filtration, protection and flow then clean oil. As far as clean or dirty oil, no lab judges oil this way, but rather TAN or TBN, those set an interval. Insolubles would be of interest, but even at 10k miles most oils with good filters do not have much here. If you felt so motivated look at blackstone oil thread.

 

[Burn2k12Ram]

Filtration flow and efficiency, additives within oil formulas, and viscosity are all things to consider. Depends how far down the rabbit hole you feel like going here at ram forum. Or you could just use redline 5w30 and a royal purple 20-820, I have not found anything better. You can go longer with the oci to offset costs. I'd rather have filtration, protection and flow then clean oil. As far as clean or dirty oil, no lab judges oil this way, but rather TAN or TBN, those set an interval. Insolubles would be of interest, but even at 10k miles most oils with good filters do not have much here. If you felt so motivated look at blackstone oil thread.

Where are you finding the RP 20-820 filter? Show it unavailable on Amazon

 

[Burla]

amazon usually, can try rp direct.

 

[Burla]

20-500 is another popular one, on sale 12 bucks.

 

[Burn2k12Ram]

20-500 is another popular one, on sale 12 bucks.

Awesome. Is that one just as good as the 20-820

 

[Burla]

I never used it, but some ram members like it more.

 

[phil g]

I have the PO301. This morning I made my appointment to get the cam and lifters looked at and replaced. I got 2 quotes, one for $5000 and one for $3000. I've done all the other part swaps as well as checking the injector.

 

[Sur5er]

Any idea how much time I might have? Gotta figure out a plan- crash it, trade it, rebuild it or put in a crate motor.

It's been going on for a few months, less than the last oil change around 3800 miles ago. It doesn't always do it under load yet, just sometimes.

The more you run the engine, the more potential for damage from FOD. Try an oil analysis with Blackstone to get an idea of how much material if floating around. If rebuild, make sure to have the block cleaned, oil passages rooted out and cam bearings replaced.

 

[El Huapo]

If I had a hemi in my truck, I think I'd put a big magnet on the bottom of the oil pan, just in case---unless there's already one from the factory? Just a stray thought, but it might make a cam change do the fix OK instead of a complete engine swap.

 

[Papa Bill]

2012 5.7L with 117k miles. Replaced the plugs only, no coils, last fall, around 15k miles ago.

Recently it's started throwing a P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire). It doesn't throw this code while driving "normally" but it will happen when going uphill or under harder-than-normal acceleration (I'm not a leadfoot unless I'm in AZ in a rental Challenger). It's ALWAYS the #3 cylinder.

Assuming it was the coil pack, I replaced that but it's still doing it. I supposed it's possible I got a bad coil pack. I suppose it's also possible that one of the plugs went bad. But both those scenarios seem unlikely.

I do have AlfaOBD, if there are any better diagnostic tools than just the standard app that came with the OBD dongle I bought.

I've heard something like this could be an early indication of cam failure (I really hope that's not the case). The fact that it's always the #3 cylinder makes me thing it wouldn't be a cam/crank sensor.

Any thoughts on what else might be going on? I have an appt at my local shop on Monday, but I'd like to have a better clue before going in there.

Thanks in advance.

Get ready for a new engine. I have a 2014 1500 with 130k and all the same symptoms on #5. Ran okay if not under a load. Finally got worse. Turned out to be a failed lifter ended up breaking a lift Rod and ruined the cam. Dealer was the only show in town that could replace the engine. Took 5 days and $12,455.30.

 

[Dusty]

Before reacting to assumption because of commonality of symptom, it might be worth having the proper diagnostics performed, especially if there is no valve noise currently present. The only 'bad' lifter and cam pronouncement I'm personally aware of turned out to be a bad fuel injector for a P0304 misfire.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 71163 miles

 

[demonram]

2012 5.7L with 117k miles. Replaced the plugs only, no coils, last fall, around 15k miles ago.

Recently it's started throwing a P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire). It doesn't throw this code while driving "normally" but it will happen when going uphill or under harder-than-normal acceleration (I'm not a leadfoot unless I'm in AZ in a rental Challenger). It's ALWAYS the #3 cylinder.

Assuming it was the coil pack, I replaced that but it's still doing it. I supposed it's possible I got a bad coil pack. I suppose it's also possible that one of the plugs went bad. But both those scenarios seem unlikely.

I do have AlfaOBD, if there are any better diagnostic tools than just the standard app that came with the OBD dongle I bought.

I've heard something like this could be an early indication of cam failure (I really hope that's not the case). The fact that it's always the #3 cylinder makes me thing it wouldn't be a cam/crank sensor.

Any thoughts on what else might be going on? I have an appt at my local shop on Monday, but I'd like to have a better clue before going in there.

Thanks in advance.

Cam lobe wiped out. Gonna need a new cam and lifters. Make sure they run something through it to wash out the metal shavings, use a good oil and filter when you get it back, a lot of members on this site use Royal Purple, Amsoil, several other brands. Look for the oil recommendations on here.

 

[demonram]

Check the oil control valve, this is what the dealer uses to detect if your engine can get a cam swap or needs to be replaced, if there is metal shavings all over this valve, get a new engine, whatever brand suits your fancy. If no metal shavings, consider the risk of a cam swap- before the latest crisis it was usually 3800 out the door with a new cam/lifters and surrounding parts. They don't have to remove the engine. Anyone's guess what this will cost now, maybe 5k. I imagine engine swaps have also gone up 20% plus or better.

That's most likely how they determined mine. RamCares replaced the cam and lifters in my truck if I would pay a 10% co-pay. Heck yeah. My part was a little over $300.00. No problem since then.

 

[demonram]

If I had a hemi in my truck, I think I'd put a big magnet on the bottom of the oil pan, just in case---unless there's already one from the factory? Just a stray thought, but it might make a cam change do the fix OK instead of a complete engine swap.

You can also get an oil pan drain plug with a magnet on the end of it. I check it every time I change the oil.

 

[demonram]

Before reacting to assumption because of commonality of symptom, it might be worth having the proper diagnostics performed, especially if there is no valve noise currently present. The only 'bad' lifter and cam pronouncement I'm personally aware of turned out to be a bad fuel injector for a P0304 misfire.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 71163 miles

Absolutely have diagnostics done, but when mine failed, there was never any sound, before or after failure.

 

[Burla]

That's most likely how they determined mine. RamCares replaced the cam and lifters in my truck if I would pay a 10% co-pay. Heck yeah. My part was a little over $300.00. No problem since then.

were you out of warranty?

 

[demonram]

I saw where someone recommended a Jasper engine. Go to their website and check everything they do to the Hemi to make it more dependable. I personally was impressed with the work they mention.

 

[DILLIGAF]

You want a dependable HEMI you need to build it yourself and run a custom tune. Its literally a job you can do in your driveway in 3-4 Days. Tons of us on here have done it with great success.

 

[demonram]

You want a dependable HEMI you need to build it yourself and run a custom tune. Its literally a job you can do in your driveway in 3-4 Days. Tons of us on here have done it with great success.

And there is always that option.