5w-30 in a MDS hemi?

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RamDiver

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I knew there were some here that cannot fit the larger diameter filters.

Why exactly doesn't it fit on your truck? Do you have a 4x4?

On mine, I have to tip it to get it up in there. I prefill my filters, and I have to pour some off so it doesn't spill when I'm finagling with it.

The diameter of the filter makes fitment just near impossible.
I'm not sure if the 4x4 makes any difference, but yes it is.

To be honest, a stealership tech demonstrated how it wouldn't fit, I wasn't in the mood to play with it on that occasion. I had planned to try it for myself at a local shop where I've known the owner for years. Unfortunately, he suddenly had enough and retired about 2 months ago.

IIRC, the diameter is just slightly larger than a 10575. Somewhere I have a spreadsheet I created with all the specs of about 6 or 7 filters.

You would make a serious mess prefilling filters to install on my truck. :cool:

.
 

Wild one

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I knew there were some here that cannot fit the larger diameter filters.

Why exactly doesn't it fit on your truck? Do you have a 4x4?

On mine, I have to tip it to get it up in there. I prefill my filters, and I have to pour some off so it doesn't spill when I'm finagling with it.
If the truck is new enough to have the add on oil heater/cooler,it seems like the add on sandwich plate moves the filter mount down enough,the bigger filters don't fit Ed.
 

Ken226

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Is there something different on the 14+ 8 speed trucks?

My 2013 6 speed has plenty of room for the bigger filters.

The space for the filter has never been a concern. There's even room for the socket wrench, extension and the 3 claw style oil filter wrench I use to remove the filter.

Our Durango's also has plenty of room for the bigger filters, but I hate how the filter goes on at a 45* angle.
 

mikeru

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Is there something different on the 14+ 8 speed trucks?

My 2013 6 speed has plenty of room for the bigger filters.

The space for the filter has never been a concern. There's even room for the socket wrench, extension and the 3 claw style oil filter wrench I use to remove the filter.

Our Durango's also has plenty of room for the bigger filters, but I hate how the filter goes on at a 45* angle.
Is your truck 4wd or 2wd? I've read it makes a difference as far as oil filter clearance goes.
 

HEMIMANN

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I knew there were some here that cannot fit the larger diameter filters.

Why exactly doesn't it fit on your truck? Do you have a 4x4?

On mine, I have to tip it to get it up in there. I prefill my filters, and I have to pour some off so it doesn't spill when I'm finagling with it.

I have the heavy duty Ram 2500, MY 2017 and 6.4L Hemi engine. The oil filter adapter is a 90 degree angle that turns the oil filter horizontal forward, pointing toward the radiator. It is right next to the lower molded radiator hose. You'd have to re-route the lower hose to fit a larger diameter oil filter (RP 20-820 or Fram XG2).

So I use mid size RP 20-500 or Fram FE 10575
 

MrBonez

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If you need to add Lucas or other junk to your oil, then your oil ain't good enough IMHO.

That's why I run HPL. Fully formulated, best in class oil you can find.

Adding Lucas to your oil just means you're diluting the other stuff in the ad pack, ending up with a less quality oil.
There are two reasons why I'm using Lucas as I am right now.
One is because I've always used it in the S10 (Over 28 years) and it's got over 300,000 on the clock, still runs great too with plenty of power for what it is and doesn't use oil between oil changes.
I don't call Lucas "Junk" if it's used correctly, the truck is proof that it lives up to what it claims to do and although I understand your reasons why you won't run it, in my case it's proven itself effective enough.

I won't argue though about the quality of other oils that could be ran in it like what you're using, if it works go with it is all I can say.... Which is what I'm doing here myself and I'm running Castrol Edge 5w-20w with it at a 90/10 mix so there isn't alot of it in there anyway.

As for switching to a thicker oil next time I'll probrably do that because this engine has over 200,000 on it and I know internal tolerances aren't the same (Looser) as it was due to simple wear over time.

As for my primary purpose of getting a little more oil pressure at idle when it's hot, that worked out great which is reason # 2.

Yes - One day (After my shop is built) I'll need to check on an oil filter setup for this one and I do like the dual filter setup Wild One has, but would prefer it to be more of an oil cooler type setup instead of a straightup dual filter thing.
 

RamDiver

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The difference is the Power steering VS that pos electric steering rack ;) My 2012 has tons of room :cool:

On my Warlock IIRC, the threaded fitting is just too close to the block.

I can twist and turn the filter along the path to get it next to the threaded fitting but the XG2 is just a couple of mm too wide to line up.

If my area wasn't so hot and bug infested, I would crawl under and scope it out.

That's not happening for at least a couple of months. :cool:

.
 
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ramffml

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I don't call Lucas "Junk" if it's used correctly, the truck is proof that it lives up to what it claims to do and although I understand your reasons why you won't run it, in my case it's proven itself effective enough.

Your truck could still be living despite Lucas, not because of it. That's a possibility that needs to be considered. Or it could be having no effect.

Just as one example: HPL has several different products that all use very high doses of moly. Except their Euro entry line which uses boron instead of moly. Their CEO came right out and said: "we couldn't use moly due to a chemistry clash with the ad pack we're using in the Euro product". So guys who pour Lubeguard into HPL Euro, well at that point they're making the oil perform worse, they're not enhancing it.

Another example, does Lucas contain any silicon? If not, pouring that into something like HPL will reduce the antifoaming properties of the oil. The hemi takes 7 qts, you only give it 6 (or whatever) and fill the rest with Lucas, that means you're reducing the ratio of silicon, and whatever other goodies they got going on to make it a top choice.

There might be cases where an oil is improved with a product like Lucas, but it could just as easily make it worse. :shrug:
 

Wild one

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Way back when mine was still stock,i had no issues with the 20-820 fitting,and that was when it still had the front diff in it,and it's also an electric rack truck.The only guys i've heard of having issues with the 20-820 fitting on a 1500,are the trucks with Rams pissy little oil heater/cooler,that moves the filters mounting face closer to the crossmember.I don't think it has anything to do with the electric rack or whether it's a 4X4
 

MrBonez

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Your truck could still be living despite Lucas, not because of it. That's a possibility that needs to be considered. Or it could be having no effect.

Just as one example: HPL has several different products that all use very high doses of moly. Except their Euro entry line which uses boron instead of moly. Their CEO came right out and said: "we couldn't use moly due to a chemistry clash with the ad pack we're using in the Euro product". So guys who pour Lubeguard into HPL Euro, well at that point they're making the oil perform worse, they're not enhancing it.

Another example, does Lucas contain any silicon? If not, pouring that into something like HPL will reduce the antifoaming properties of the oil. The hemi takes 7 qts, you only give it 6 (or whatever) and fill the rest with Lucas, that means you're reducing the ratio of silicon, and whatever other goodies they got going on to make it a top choice.

There might be cases where an oil is improved with a product like Lucas, but it could just as easily make it worse. :shrug:
You have some good points, expressing these possibilites as to why or why not and I will say myself the oil it's used with does have an effect.

You are correct it could be doing nothing of benefit or maybe even making things worse.

However with the history I have with it that covers almost 30 years, surely you can understand why I'm not hesitant to use it at all - BTW I will admit 4.3's are known to run for a very long stretch of miles, 300,000 to 400,000 miles with no major problems isn't too uncommon for them as long as you keep up with maintenance due for it.

It's not a matter of simply subbing a quart because you then have too much for the 90/10 ratio to be correct in a Hemi since it holds 7qts (224oz) of oil total when filled..... But if wanting to go with a 85/15 mix ratio, that's about right since 6 quarts is 192oz anyway and 15% of the full 224oz (7qts) is 190.4 oz, that is truly right for stepping it up by 5% on the mix.

I'm not aware of Lucas having stuff like Silicon in it and it does say it does not contain Teflon, Sulphur or Chlorine.
BTW the bottle's directions says to use an 80/20 mix but I believe for engines that run lighter weight oils like 0w-20w, that's simply too much and using only 10% instead of 20% is a good ratio for engines with such tight tolerances - Which is why I'm only using it as a 90/10 mix rato anyway.

Speaking of foaming:
Additives like Silicon would be diluted by the ratio/amount used (I'd think) so there is definite agreement there.

Oil foaming itself isn't a really big deal as long as the vehicle is driven often enough, and for long enough each time it's driven to boil out moisture from the oil and from inside the crankcase too.

This foaming/snotty effect is mostly seen on engines/equipment that's kept/stored outdoors and I call it oil "Snot" because that's what it looks like on the stick or under the oil fill cap.
My truck's engine never had oil snot in it because I always drive it enough to boil off moisture that causes oil snot to appear in the first place. Usually about 10-20 miles driven every two weeks is enough to mostly counter the formation of it but that's for here....
Other places may or may not require more runtime because it's mostly due to climate conditions of where the vehicle is and how they change, esp come Springtime which is the worst for it.

If you have it stored indoors it's more manageable BUT that depends if it's in a fully enclosed area or just stuffed in a barn somewhere - Climate controlled storage is always best and will literally stop it from happening.
 

ramffml

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Oil foaming itself isn't a really big deal as long as the vehicle is driven often enough, and for long enough each time it's driven to boil out moisture from the oil and from inside the crankcase too.

Antifoaming is critical during engine runtime, it's not about moisture in the oil, v|rgin oil with no engine runtime can foam. Foam means air, which means no separation between parts; you don't want foaming oil in your bearings. Oil can look perfectly fine in the pan, with no moisture, you can't tell by looking at it when it's not being used that an oil foams in operation.

I'll try to find the video back that Lakespeed did where he showed perfectly beautiful oil in a test tube, that foamed when being shaken/stirred/used, and then returns to normal when the test stops.
 

RamDiver

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Antifoaming is critical during engine runtime, it's not about moisture in the oil, v|rgin oil with no engine runtime can foam. Foam means air, which means no separation between parts; you don't want foaming oil in your bearings. Oil can look perfectly fine in the pan, with no moisture, you can't tell by looking at it when it's not being used that an oil foams in operation.

I'll try to find the video back that Lakespeed did where he showed perfectly beautiful oil in a test tube, that foamed when being shaken/stirred/used, and then returns to normal when the test stops.

Could we just state that foaming creates air gaps in the lubrication process and significantly reduces the volume of lubricant available in the tight spaces between metal surfaces? :cool:

.
 

Daw14

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5w30 redline for past 8 years , only tick is from the injectors.

Ran PUP for a while early on , however once I tried the redline I never looked back. Although I did jump from 5-20 to 5-30 , don’t recall any pressure change , but it got really quite.
 

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5w30 redline for past 8 years , only tick is from the injectors.

Ran PUP for a while early on , however once I tried the redline I never looked back. Although I did jump from 5-20 to 5-30 , don’t recall any pressure change , but it got really quite.

Mine jumped, bare minimum of 10psi, but to be fair I went from PUP 5w-20 (not real high visc anyway) and Mopar paper filter, to Redline 5w-30 with RP 20-820 synthetic filter at the same time.

Also very quiet, until lately. I swear I can hear my exhaust manifolds again, only at first start of the day, otherwise whisper quiet, and so smooth my FM antenna doesn't wiggle at warm idle. No miss, no codes, happy camper!
 

Curmudgeon

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Could we just state that foaming creates air gaps in the lubrication process and significantly reduces the volume of lubricant available in the tight spaces between metal surfaces? :cool:

.

Air is bad, bro, that's why we have a PCV valve to let it out! :Big Laugh:
 

Curmudgeon

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Antifoaming is critical during engine runtime, it's not about moisture in the oil, v|rgin oil with no engine runtime can foam. Foam means air, which means no separation between parts; you don't want foaming oil in your bearings. Oil can look perfectly fine in the pan, with no moisture, you can't tell by looking at it when it's not being used that an oil foams in operation.

I'll try to find the video back that Lakespeed did where he showed perfectly beautiful oil in a test tube, that foamed when being shaken/stirred/used, and then returns to normal when the test stops.


I remember that video, and I think I found it. It's over 32 minutes long but if you fast forward to about 26:00 or 26:15 and start watching, he shows the foaming demonstration...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeNLVUdoBU0&t=24s
 
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