5w20 or 5w30

[corneileous]

I bought my 2019 5.7 classic 3 weeks ago. Has 12,000 miles and I did an oil change with 5w20 conventional oil with the mopar spec. I'm wondering if i should stick with 5w20 or switch to 5w30 eventually. Either way I'd probably stick with non-synthetic.

I’ve always ran 5w20 with no issues. Of course, Ive never ran just plain ole conventional oil, either. I’ve always ran a top-tier full synthetic. The old 2008 I had, ran full synthetic Mobil 1 in it that was changed every 4500 to 5,000 miles and my new 18 gets the Pennzoil ultra premium since it’s MS 63 whatever it is Chrysler approved and Mobil 1 isn’t.


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[Midnight Storm]

Thanks for your valuable contribution.
I had never heard of Prolong... thought that was a men's ****** product...LOL

A quick search of amazon for Prolong shows that all of their products have 4.5 to 5 stars... so apparently many people are satisfied with it. I will stick with my Motorkote... as I mentioned it has a strong following with truckers and I have had good luck with it including a Toyota engine that I ran (accidently) with no oil for 16 miles in stop and go traffic without a problem.
I haave 89K on my 14 hemi and no lifter noise yet.

People don’t write reviews 5-10 years later after buying the item.

 

[corneileous]

I will never understand peoples' compulsion to defy the manufacturer's recommendation on oil.

Do you think they are trying to sabotage you with a deliberately wrong recommendation? Do you have a concept in your mind that oil quality is directly correlated with viscosity and more is always better? If the manufacturer recommends round tires do you find square ones to spite them?

I'm trying to understand what's happening here..

I don’t know, I wouldn’t put it past them. Auto manufacturers aren’t really in the business to have you keep a vehicle for a very long time; they’re in the business to sell vehicles. But they’re also out for fuel economy numbers too. If a 5W 20 engine oil gives you a little bit better fuel mileage then that’s what they’re going to recommend.


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[chrisbh17]

I don’t know, I wouldn’t put it past them. Auto manufacturers aren’t really in the business to have you keep a vehicle for a very long time; they’re in the business to sell vehicles. But they’re also out for fuel economy numbers too. If a 5W 20 engine oil gives you a little bit better fuel mileage then that’s what they’re going to recommend.


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Toyota was (still is?) in the middle of changing from 0W-20 to 0W-16. The engines have not changed, they are just using 0W-16 in place of 0W-20.

If that doesnt stink of "anything for CAFE" then I dont know what does.

 

[corneileous]

Id use the 5w20 if i were you at least until im out of warranty, then its fair game to use other stuff. If a dealer wants to bust your balls they could not honor the warranty if you dont use the proper oil

They could per se, but it’s really not up to the dealer, it’s up to the manufacture. But because of the Magnussen Moss act, they can’t just bust your balls because you used a 30 weight oil. They’d have to prove it was the weight of your oil that caused whatever problem you have with your motor to get warranty work done on your truck.

But if you’re like me who has lifetime warranty, it’s kind of a gray area when Mopar MVP says I have to use what’s recommended. But then again, it doesn’t say that I have to; it just says recommended so, even once my lifetime warranty kicks in after the five-year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty is up and I have a motor issue from using 5W 30(if I was using that), I would think that my lifetime warranty would also have to prove that the heavier oil was indeed the problem.

I don’t know, since I’ve never had a problem running an oil that the manufacturer recommends, with all that is been sad all this with Forum about using 5W 20 in these 5.7 hemi‘s, I would probably switch to 5W 30 after my regular manufacture warranty was up but since I’ve got lifetime warranty on my truck, I’m going to keep using 5W 20 but I’m going to use as top-tier of oil as I can because I just don’t believe in using semi-synthetic, lower-grade oil nor do I support upwards of 10,000 like oil changes.



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[dls56]

Frequent oil changes keeping your oil relatively clean is also a great stop gap measure regardless of the weight IMHO. Full synthetic and a new filter every time for me.
I enjoy the great oil debates!

 

[Marshall]

This don't really apply to the southern US, but does up here, take different oils, 0-30, 10-30 5/20 or what ever, Reg and syth.
Put in a plastic cup, freeze, and try pouring out, usally at -30 or colder, huge difference.
I think more engines are hurt with cold start, and the oil will not flow, than heat. Race motors are a different breed ,
As far as building trucks to fail so you have to buy a new one, what a bunch of Bull.
How long would a company stay around if that is the case?

 

[corneileous]

This don't really apply to the southern US, but does up here, take different oils, 0-30, 10-30 5/20 or what ever, Reg and syth.
Put in a plastic cup, freeze, and try pouring out, usally at -30 or colder, huge difference.
I think more engines are hurt with cold start, and the oil will not flow, than heat. Race motors are a different breed ,
As far as building trucks to fail so you have to buy a new one, what a bunch of Bull.
How long would a company stay around if that is the case?

I don’t think they build em to fail, I just think they would never admit that to be the case. I mean c’mon, you really think they have longevity in mind when they “recommend” a low grade semi synthetic motor oil that’s fairly lightweight for a big 400 horse V8, to be changed at upwards of 10,000 miles at the helm of a probably cheaply made filter with a piece of paper for a filter media? And not only that but, in my opinion, a highly technical eight speed transmission that they claim is a “lifetime fill” with no maintenance schedule?


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[pacofortacos]

Guaranteed passing EPA and CAFE standards trumps all other considerations - engineering for durability that will exceed the warranty period by several hundred thousand miles is not a very iimportant consideration.

Then throw in "cost of ownership" to be high on the comparison charts vs. other makes and you end up pushing the boundaries of durability.
Low Cost of ownership = high mile oil change intervals, lifetime fills, etc.

I would be willing to bet, "lifetime" = 10 yrs/100,000 miles which is the same as the prorate specs for the Mopar Lifetime warranty.

 

[Marshall]

BTW , I run full synthetic for the last 25? yrs in the last 4 1/2tons Rams/dodge's 5/20in the 5.7L
l did run full syth. in the tractor I run in the winter, and the big truck, that damn thing would take 35 liters of oil.
When it got to -30, I could not start the 855C, the tractor would start, if the fuel would flow.
have never had a motor go , O, forgot about the ford ranger that I had to change the T chain and transmission on, cold shed middle of winter on a couple of bridge timbers, the trany cost more than the truck did.
Back in the old days most stuff was run on straight 30w, that stuff was like grease when real cold.
I have a 85 1500 dodge 360ci with about 400K on it and still runs and looks great

 

[kurek]

I find it hilarious that following the actual instructions that come with the machine has become a controversial position. You guys put milk in your ramen because it says add water?

 

[ilovemyramlaremie]

All of sudden the engineers don’t know what they talking about, and joe blow is the master expert on engine oil

 

[chrisbh17]

The problem is that the engineers get overruled by the bean counters.

For all we know the FCA engineers are shaking their heads right now as the bean counters force thinner and thinner oils on customers.

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[pacofortacos]

And all are overruled by the Feds. Nothing and I mean nothing happens if it doesn't pass EPA a close second is CAFE, then $, then comes NHV and overall performance - long term (over 100k miles) durability is pretty far down the list.

Also the truth is, very few original owners/buyers of new vehicles will own them up to 100k miles - there is a reason most warranties are 3/36 and it isn't because all autos fall apart after that.

1/3 of all owners keep their autos less than 3 yrs.
The average after that is 6-7 yrs.

 

[Hookedup87]

Hey everyone. Been reading a lot of threads like these where guys are debating about what weight oil to use. I love my truck, and want to do the right thing when it comes to lubrication, but, doesn’t the MDS system we are all blessed with, sarcastic, engage and disengage off oil pressure? Changing to a 0w20 or 30 or to a 5w30 from the recommended 5w20 affect how the MDS functions?

 

[CYSTemrebel]

And all are overruled by the Feds. Nothing and I mean nothing happens if it doesn't pass EPA a close second is CAFE, then $, then comes NHV and overall performance - long term (over 100k miles) durability is pretty far down the list.

Also the truth is, very few original owners/buyers of new vehicles will own them up to 100k miles - there is a reason most warranties are 3/36 and it isn't because all autos fall apart after that.

1/3 of all owners keep their autos less than 3 yrs.
The average after that is 6-7 yrs.

...and I have kept mine since I bought it new in 08 and intend on keeping it for another ten at least and probably until I cannot drive in ten more years when a mandatory re-test is required. It has been scheduled right now for a full body job and paint by a professional. I do this. Buy a new vehicle and keep it forever. Paint and body work every ten years or whenever it is required. Shoot! It is like marriage, takes a long time to get to know the intricacies of the other party. I am still learning things about my truck after almost 12 years. I have a history accuracy of knowing when specific components fail by experiential application. I replace major components like I did the whole front end when the OEM wear out, with after market high quality ones. Current ones have nipples at joints so they can be lubricated. I keep improving the truck as time goes by and the wheel well pinch joint defect will be another thing eliminated. I do not understand you guys who always buy new ones every few years but that is your thing to do. I take the money saved and buy other things, for example, a new Husqvarna TE300i weighing a little over 200 pounds with 56 HP. Load it on the back tray, and take off to the sticks often for a several day getaway using the truck/camper as a base to operate from on a trail system I can access big cities or boondock villages if I desire. But it is up to you guys, I just attach to a truck and that is it, I do not want to ever replace it.

 

[FaceDeAce]

2004 Ram 1500 Hemi. Moderate "truck" work use. Hauling, towing, as well as daily driver.

In canada. I have 4 seasons.

- Fall, which is 1 month or less. Late September to halloween. 5w20.GTX UC
- Winter, which is 9 months long. Mid September through end of May. 5w20 GTX UC
- spring which is 2 weeks long. Mid May. 5w20 GTX UC
- summer which is 1 month. July. 5w30 GTX UC

Depending on when the oil change comes due, it gets what is listed above. I change at every 5,000 km, regardless of what oil is in it. Timing works out that 90% of the time the truck has 5w20 in it. I have used many different brands and grades over the years in this engine. Mobil 1 being the aboslute worst oil to put in this engine nowadays, imho. M1 had its days in the early years. The sun set on M1 15 years ago. Though good adv has kept it alive. There are so many other much better options now. However do what you will. I have settled on what this truck here seems to like the best which is Castrol GTX UltraClean 5w20. There are no ill effects. Runs great. Smooth. Quiet. Has 230,000 km on it and still runs as good, even better, than the day I bought it.

..

 

[pacofortacos]

It doesn't really affect it much at all.

...and I have kept mine since I bought it new in 08 and intend on keeping it for another ten at least and probably until I cannot drive in ten more years when a mandatory re-test is required. It has been scheduled right now for a full body job and paint by a professional. I do this. Buy a new vehicle and keep it forever. Paint and body work every ten years or whenever it is required. Shoot! It is like marriage, takes a long time to get to know the intricacies of the other party. I am still learning things about my truck after almost 12 years. I have a history accuracy of knowing when specific components fail by experiential application. I replace major components like I did the whole front end when the OEM wear out, with after market high quality ones. Current ones have nipples at joints so they can be lubricated. I keep improving the truck as time goes by and the wheel well pinch joint defect will be another thing eliminated. I do not understand you guys who always buy new ones every few years but that is your thing to do. I take the money saved and buy other things, for example, a new Husqvarna TE300i weighing a little over 200 pounds with 56 HP. Load it on the back tray, and take off to the sticks often for a several day getaway using the truck/camper as a base to operate from on a trail system I can access big cities or boondock villages if I desire. But it is up to you guys, I just attach to a truck and that is it, I do not want to ever replace it.

I am the same way, the last truck was a 2001 and I would have kept it, but the wife and son were just get a new one.
This one has a lifetime warranty, so I don't have to worry about the no garage to work on it situation.

 

[Burla]

5w20 GTX UC

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[boblonben]

You can speculate all day on which is bettern(5w20 or 5w30) on the hemi but uoa reveals the truth.


Here in Canada, at -20c, i haven't experienced any piston slap or knock at cold starts. Will continue with pup5w30. I dont drive enough miles in a year to swap 5w20 in the winter and 5w30 in the summer.

5W-20 is what you should use, year 'round. For all of us to do the same . Way to much brain cells burned on this subject when the real answer sis right in front of most all of us, NO real reasons to do any different than the 5W-20, ever.