Gearhead383
Junior Member
Just got the update as well.
So did I. Went out to the truck and everything seems to be working now.
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Just got the update as well.
It's times like this I'm glad I manually update my Android apps...
Hey boss did u change out the wiring for the ac?Got my Laramie interior swapped in and now that AlfaOBD is back up everything is working like a champ! Huge thanks to Mike with M2Mods!
I'll be wiring in the Laramie door panels this weekend with the ambient lighting.
Now to get my center seat wrapped in matching black leather!
Not too shabby for a tradesman born truck.
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So I wanted to blow $30 and "test" the "Enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights" toggle in the Body controller. So I bought the absolute cheapest set of bulbs and ballasts with no harnesses, capacitors, resistors or other "smoothing" devices. What I bought was the worst of the worst crap -- just to see if the $300 kits from all the fancy RAM vendors are now 100% unecessary for compatibility reasons.
My preliminary findings -- The $300+ kits are now unnecessary with alfaobd.
My simple test -- find a ballast small enough to stuff in the case and close the dust cover without modifying. No cutting, grommets, mounting, etc... Just shove the stuff in and call it done.
It works. It just works. You can go with any cheapie crap HID kit (AND take the inherent risk that the ballast will fail in 6 hours, LOL) and run with it if you choose. I'm attaching pictures -- very basic.
This is something I would have never thought possible with a 2013+ RAM truck.
I really don't think the fancy HID vendors with their "5th gen super GT can-bus" ballasts (roll eyes), super duper wiring harnesses (that look like something from the dark ages), capacitors and resistors want us to know that for $49 worth of software we can shut down the bulb out checking (by enabling High Intensity Discharge Lights) and just run with it. That would really take a bite out of their business model.
Something to think about. Alfaobd appears to be a game-changer for the HID market itself (NOT just LED's).
Sure you can buy the expensive kits for their inherent quality -- where it exists -- but not because you HAVE TO BUY them to circumvent PWM and Circuit disabling -- any more!
I do have one question for my LED headlight friends -- we know enabling LED on the other circuits (FOG, Reverse, license plate, etc....) disables PWM. Does it do the same for the LOW-BEAM circuit? OR does "enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights" disable PWM AND bulb out resistance or JUST bulb out resistance? If it's the latter, I'd do them in tandem and be sure that PWM isn't hitting my ballast... If I had LED bulbs to test, I'd set it for enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights but NOT enable LED Low Beams. Then run the LED's and view through my phones camera photo-sensor and see if the LED's are cycling. IF they are, those with HID's might want to do both to be sure that PWM isn't still hitting their ballast even though the HID setting has turned off the bulb out warning.
-Guzzler
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@Hemi395 Thank you for that little lesson, I just changed my selection to manual.
Anyone got a write up on how to do DRLs? And where to find the PIN
Cargo cam enabled!....now, just gotta get a new brake light with camera. Projects, projects, projects...
Alfa was telling me that it could not make the changes, turned the key off for a few minutes and magically....it appeared. 2013 Power Wagons are weird....
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Its in the very first post under known working...also another post about using your turn signals as DRLs...I have my foglights set up.
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Can anyone with air suspension tell me what options are available using this program?
Yes the OEM cargo cam third brake lights are definitely expensive new and they are hard to find used. STecoD and I got lucky and got a tip on a couple of used ones for about $100 less than a new one so that helped a little. I Installed the cargo cam harness from deer guy at M2mods and it works great.I just tackled the cargo camera. It’s a fairly expensive upgrade unless you can find a deal on the brake light. I thought I did, but when I got the brake light it didn’t have the camera in it. Not that big of deal, I’ll just pick up an used oem tailgate camera on the cheap. Camera showed up today and didn’t really fit right, but by removing the mounting tabs I got it in the brake light. Put the brake light back in and fired up the truck and the image was upside down. I was able to track down the right part number for the camera and it’s a little over $200 for a new one. Some lessons are learned the hard way.
Its in the very first post under known working...also another post about using your turn signals as DRLs...I have my foglights set up.
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