AlfaOBD

[likes2build]

Can you post a link on where to get them?

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@AllMoparParts.com , Benny is a vendor here on the forum. He's the best at getting anything you might want or need.

 

[Gixxer750]

Just to update if anyone else is looking at this in the future..deleted the pairing from phone to mx+ and repaired but it still couldn't find mx+ on the alfa app. Then I saw Cliffs post and tried the reset button on the mx+ and then they were able to communicate. So thank you for the help there! I'm using my gf's android since I have an iphone, and forgot she has gotten a new phone since the last time I used mx+ and alfa.

Back to my original problem @Gixxer750 I did the 15 second test of the lights and saw the same results as when I'm using the truck. All other lights work, drivers low beam on at 50% strength at best, I can notice this at night especially if I am behind another truck with a clean tailgate, looks like my truck is winking but you can still see some light coming from the drivers side. I didn't see where to find/verify the voltage that you were talking about, I forgot how extensive these menus are to make changes or check things, would you be able to point out roughly where I can check the voltage?

For now I've switched my drl from the low beam to the parking lights, so at least people can't call padiddle against me during the daytime.

I'm looked back a few posts, you do have the projector housings correct? The target output voltage (makes it constant, no PWM) no flicker) settings are all cbc-xxxxxxxx settings, the screens hot posted has the settings as you would come to them upside down, so you'll scroll down to the bottom shots then they will be followed by the ones above. If it wasn't confusing enough lol. My phone doesn't show a scroll bar so thats as good as I can do. If you still don't find it let me know. And if it doesn't work, I think the problem is inside the projector eye. I have a spare here I can send you pictures off to compare if need be. There is a metal "flap" in there. It may be engaged/disengaged?

 

[Jimmy07]

I'm looked back a few posts, you do have the projector housings correct? The target output voltage (makes it constant, no PWM) no flicker) settings are all cbc-xxxxxxxx settings

View attachment 215546

Changing the target voltage doesn’t turn off the PWM. It just changes the duty cycle of the PWM. Setting VehConfig 3 High intensity discharge headlamps to yes will disable PWM on the low beam circuits.

 

[Cwrong]

I have probably missed it skimming through. Since the OBD MX isnt available what OBD adapter should I get to use AlfaOBD in my vehicles?

 

[alpinegreenneon]

OBDLinkMX+ from scantool.net
Looks like they were backordered until the 16th so as of today they are available.

 

[MADDOG]

Reading the service manual, I got a kick out of this:

"The EMIC also provides a turn signal ON warning that will generate repetitive chimes to indicate that a turn signal has been active continuously for 1.6 kilometers (1 mile) with the vehicle speed greater than 22 kilometers-per-hour (15 miles-per-hour)."

Now I want to test that

In the old Cadillacs we called that the "Geezer Buzzer".

 

[jmckeejr]

So I am trying to get my 4 digit pin from dealer and have a question. They can get me the pin (saying they need to pull radio and get numbers from it as it's an upgrade 8.4 from 5 inch). They said the pin would be associated with that radio but do I need to get pin associated with my factory radio instead? I'm basically just wanting to see if I can set tpms to match my tires and I guess the pin needed for that.

 

[Jimmy07]

So I am trying to get my 4 digit pin from dealer and have a question. They can get me the pin (saying they need to pull radio and get numbers from it as it's an upgrade 8.4 from 5 inch). They said the pin would be associated with that radio but do I need to get pin associated with my factory radio instead? I'm basically just wanting to see if I can set tpms to match my tires and I guess the pin needed for that.

They’re confused on what you want. They are referring to the 4 digit radio anti theft code, which they would need the serial number off the back of the radio for. This has nothing to do with the RF Hub PIN number. Tell them you want a “key code inquiry” that contains the PIN for programming fobs.

 

[jmckeejr]

They’re confused on what you want. They are referring to the 4 digit radio anti theft code, which they would need the serial number off the back of the radio for. This has nothing to do with the RF Hub PIN number. Tell them you want a “key code inquiry” that contains the PIN for programming fobs.

Thanks. I'll have to start over on Monday when they're back in the office. They didn't have too much trouble getting the anti theft code (although they did all why I wanted it), do hopefully they will get the key code for me.

 

[likes2build]

They’re confused on what you want. They are referring to the 4 digit radio anti theft code, which they would need the serial number off the back of the radio for. This has nothing to do with the RF Hub PIN number. Tell them you want a “key code inquiry” that contains the PIN for programming fobs.

@jmckeejr iirc it's the parts department who can provide you with the "key code inquiry" page. That's where I got mine.

 

[TylerC]

It appears that there is no definite answer on whether you need to use 500/500 or 1000 it's just whatever your truck needs to see. No you don't need to use any resistors to the ground. Just ground pin 11 or if it's already populated just go under the fuse box on the front end module (big light grey/clay colored connector) find pin 5 and ground it from there. A little easier to access.

Yes you'll need to get your 4 digit pin from the dealer or the Chrysler pin puller app should work on 2019 classic. Linked below is step by step instructions on what you need to set and how to reset the rf hub with alfaobd.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xQvdHVTgRwKQRKSBh1K2rkCqg5dlpSi0


2018 Ram 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman

1500ram12 - IF i am understanding this right, and i'm no wizard so bear with me- I am in the process of a ton of mods to a 14 Tradesman RC . I canabalized a 14 CC Sport and transferred missing wires connector by connector, pin for pin. (seats-doors-mirrors-OH Console)
When i got to the hood latch wires, there is already a wire in the cavity for where the purple wire runs to the White BCM connector - the Black BCM connector is not populated.
Neither side is running through the FCM or they are not in the proper positions to be hood latch signal.
My question is this- IF i run the wiring through the FCM as i have both sides, and connect to the Black connector and then TAP into the White BCM connector wire, will it function normally?

 

[1500ram12]

1500ram12 - IF i am understanding this right, and i'm no wizard so bear with me- I am in the process of a ton of mods to a 14 Tradesman RC . I canabalized a 14 CC Sport and transferred missing wires connector by connector, pin for pin. (seats-doors-mirrors-OH Console)
When i got to the hood latch wires, there is already a wire in the cavity for where the purple wire runs to the White BCM connector - the Black BCM connector is not populated.
Neither side is running through the FCM or they are not in the proper positions to be hood latch signal.
My question is this- IF i run the wiring through the FCM as i have both sides, and connect to the Black connector and then TAP into the White BCM connector wire, will it function normally?

Since you have a 14 it's not as simple. I'm not a 100 percent sure on this, you'll have to find the keyless entry thread to see if you can use a different 17/18 rf hub and new 17+ fobs. If you can then adding the remote start will be simple. Otherwise you'll need the 13-14 rf hub that allows remote start, and the antenna, then you can follow the same process. I'm not sure if alfaobd will program 13-16 truck's for remote start yet. I've really haven't been paying attention lately. A lot of other projects going on right now


2018 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman

 

[BosManG]

obdlink mx+

 

[BosManG]

What OBD adapter are you using?

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obdlink mx+

 

[TylerC]

I purchased the rf hub and keys for a 14, the antennas came with the raft of parts i got from the 14 ( it was full load) im not overly concerned on the enabling part yet....
I'm just trying to sort the wiring fir the hood latch as that one connector fir the bcm ( i believe it is c4) had the wire already in it....
From what I can discern from the diagrams it is 5 or .5 volt supply.
I'm wondering if I can run the other side through the FCM and down to C1 connector & then Tap into the 2nd side that goes to the C4 connect and have the circuit correct?

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[TylerC]

obdlink mx+

I have the OBD MX+

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[Jimmy07]

I purchased the rf hub and keys for a 14, the antennas came with the raft of parts i got from the 14 ( it was full load) im not overly concerned on the enabling part yet....
I'm just trying to sort the wiring fir the hood latch as that one connector fir the bcm ( i believe it is c4) had the wire already in it....
From what I can discern from the diagrams it is 5 or .5 volt supply.
I'm wondering if I can run the other side through the FCM and down to C1 connector & then Tap into the 2nd side that goes to the C4 connect and have the circuit correct?

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If you are running the wire exactly like factory, you’ll take the hood ajar switch sense wire (pin 1 on the hood latch connector), and run it to pin 5 on both halves of the front end module connector, then straight to pin 11 on the BCM C1 connector. Run the return wire (pin 2 on the hood latch connector) into pin 6 on both halves of the front end module connector, then straight to pin 23 on the BCM C4 connector. OR...just ground the hood latch return wire straight to the nearest chassis metal, and run the hood latch sense wire straight to pin 11 on the BCM C1 connector, bypassing the front end module connector altogether.

I know you’re not worried about enabling the features just yet, but if you are using the RF Hub and fobs from another truck, you’ll also need to use the PCM from the same truck. This is because AlfaOBD can’t get the secret key information from your current PCM transferred to an RF Hub that already contains secret key information from another truck’s PCM.

 

[TylerC]

Hey Jimmy, [emoji4] thanks! I have actually purchased a new RF hub & keys for when that time comes.
Pin 11 on C1 is not populated yet on my truck but pin 23 on C4 is, there in lies my confusion as neither of the FCM terminals are populated.

Can i tap the wire into the wire that is currently in C4 23?

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[SLWKAT]

Hey hope you guys dont kind if a non Ram owner crashes the party. But you just might be able to help.

I have a 2015 Dodge Challenger SRT 392. I bought an MX+ and got the Alfa software the other day and checked the BCM log on my car.

It would appear for some reason the previous owner changed the Special Package to Big Horn.

I am wondering if you guys typically change the trucks to Big Horn to get a particular "thing" to work.

I also pulled the BCM log from my Buddy's stock SRT 392 and his (Brad's) says SRT Premium.

The special package and the Dynamic Tire Circumference are the only two things that appear to be different.

I have attached both the logs in case anyone wants to look at them.

Would greatly appreciate any input/thought on why someone would change to Big Horn.

ThanksView attachment Mark's 2015 SRT 392.pdfView attachment Brad's 2015 SRT 392 Challenger.pdf

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[Jimmy07]

Hey Jimmy, [emoji4] thanks! I have actually purchased a new RF hub & keys for when that time comes.
Pin 11 on C1 is not populated yet on my truck but pin 23 on C4 is, there in lies my confusion as neither of the FCM terminals are populated.

Can i tap the wire into the wire that is currently in C4 23?

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Yes, you can tap into it. The reason that wire is there at pin 23 on the C4 BCM connector, and not at the front end connector at all, is because that wire is also used for the outside air temperature sensor return in the driver side mirror. This is only the case on trucks like yours, that are equipped with basic mirrors and without power door locks and windows.