BFGoodrich KO2's

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RobGreen

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I currently have some Nitto Trail Grapplers on my 2015 Dodge Ram, but sadly it's time to replace them. I am looking at the BFGoodrich KO2's and wanted to see what everyone's thought is on them...
 

BriamH

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I have them as well as a few of my friends. All of us are pleased with the performance and longevity of KO2's. It seems most people either love or hate the tires they currently own.
 

Burla

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I'm pretty loyal to bfg white letter out always. I'd say unless there is an overwhelming reason to get load E bfg's, Id opt for something a little more soft. I just got mine from Costco less then a grand.

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RLJ10X

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When Side Biters came out, I was so jealous. But now that everybody has Side Biters, I like my slick sided white letter tires better. Old school.

The only criticism I have, and it's a minor one, is that they ride a bit firm. But when I air down to 33 psi cold, they ride ok. Be careful driving thru wet grass. You'll leave a trench. Don't ask...
 

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dhay13

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My son had them on his 2018 2500. Got about 55,000 miles out of them. He was off pavement quite a bit for his job and had got stuck 3x in 2 months with the factory Firestones. He got the K02's and never got stuck again. His company paid for those tires but the next set was on him so he bought cheaper ones then recently traded it in. But he loved them and wanted another set
 

ram1500rsm

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I had them in the RAM in 37x12.5x17 D rated and now I do have them in 315/70/17 C rated. Bought another set for my Jeep as well not long ago in 315/70/17 E rated. Best tires I’ve ever ran and I’ve ran a bunch of other brands in AT or MT.
 

corneileous

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I had a set in the stock 20 inch size on my 2018 1500 Limited but only 10 months after buying them I got rid of them simply because they made my ride too rough because they’re an eight ply tire which I wasn’t really aware of at the time I bought them so since I don’t off-road at all to even come close to justifying that stout of a true off-road tire, it was a mistake for me buying them because I only got them for looks and primarily for good traction on snow and ice for whenever we do have any kind of a snow or ice storm down here in Oklahoma.

if you’re in the same boat I am, I would look elsewhere but if you actually do take your truck off road and you’re taking it places where even the street version of an off-road tire would get chewed up, these are definitely the tires for you and worth every penny.
 

Burla

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Just to expand I have had many regular rated bfg's, don't really even remember the rating probably C, and when I was a young man wheeled like a champ even on oem replacement size. The last set I went up in load rating, still like the tire but the ride is a little firm. Perfect if you need it, but I carry 2k pounds in the bed maybe once a year, occasionally rock or dirt loads, and for that few times I would have rather had a lower rating tire. It has zip to do with BFG, my go to tire since 1996, but rather the rating. And load E tires minimum air pressure is higher then C max air pressure, or close, so you can't even adjust the pressure. I believe the lowest E can go is 45psi, but I'm not 100 on that and too lazy to go look, ha. These ratings are across the board, not brand related, but ply related. I know I have many benefits to load E that I am riding, but ride comfort aint one of them.

Tire-Load-Chart-02?wid=1000&hei=555.jpg
 

62Blazer

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I had two sets on my previous Chevy 2500HD and loved them for daily driving and light to moderate off-road (what you usually expect from a stockish fullsize truck) and some heavier towing. Ran everything from the stock pure street tires, mud radials, and hybrids on that truck and the BFG AT's were the best by far. The first set had around 50k on them and still had some life left, only replaced them because I found an almost new set of them mounted on aftermarket rims for sale in the classified for a good price.
 

62Blazer

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Just to expand I have had many regular rated bfg's, don't really even remember the rating probably C, and when I was a young man wheeled like a champ even on oem replacement size. The last set I went up in load rating, still like the tire but the ride is a little firm. Perfect if you need it, but I carry 2k pounds in the bed maybe once a year, occasionally rock or dirt loads, and for that few times I would have rather had a lower rating tire. It has zip to do with BFG, my go to tire since 1996, but rather the rating. And load E tires minimum air pressure is higher then C max air pressure, or close, so you can't even adjust the pressure. I believe the lowest E can go is 45psi, but I'm not 100 on that and too lazy to go look, ha. These ratings are across the board, not brand related, but ply related. I know I have many benefits to load E that I am riding, but ride comfort aint one of them.

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This comment mentions a minimum air pressure for a tire. I have never heard of a tire, or tire manufacturer, ever listing a "minimum" air pressure for a tire. They always have a maximum air pressure as shown in the chart, but no minimum. If you can provide a link to any chart or notation I would be interested to see it. Many of these tire manufacturers will show load inflation tables that show how much load they can carry and lower pressures. Not uncommon for them to have an E-rated tires with an 80 psi max have load ratings all the way down to 35 or so psi.
 

ram1500rsm

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Check the TRA tables and match what you need to be the same as factory. Or find your GAWR and match your tire PSI with TRA table to match or exceed that value. Max inflation is just that, don't exceed max inflation. In my Express max GAWR on the rear or front is 3900lbs. That means i just need tires able to support 1950lbs at max load.
If you want to use a similar factory approach according to your door sticker, then your tires must match or exceed 2601lbs if P on factory size or 2341lbs if they're LT's same size or bigger size.

Using this TRA table as an example and match what you have to find what you need PSI wise. https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf

I run 36psi in my KO2 C rated 315/70/17, more than enough lbs support at that PSI (2565lbs) to exceed what the factory thought the truck needed and definetely more than enough to support weight in the bed with the axels holding everything they can at max. (2565x2=5130 at 36 psi, the axel can hold 3900lbs max)

I ran my 37 KO2's D rated at 32psi. (2584lbs per tire)

No issues with a harsh ride, but i don't run 50psi and i also have Kings in my suspension so some may say that's cheating :). KO2's in 315/70/17 C rated are NOT as plush as other C rated tires. This was a tire designed for the Ford Raptor truck and there are 3 plies on the sidewall on this size, feels literally the same as a 315/70/17 tires E rated.
 

Burla

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The "recommended" minimum tire psi increases 15psi for each letter from c to f.
 
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Not going to top the G2 in overall performance from any other A/T tire, but you can try. Some have certain characteristics that are subjective, just like lubrication the market is massive and flooded with quality choices that essentially do the same.
 
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I run KO2 on my PW and Wrangler, both "E" rated and they work great for me. They are quiet, smooth, and have excellent road manors. Off-road, they are really great for anything but mud. The suck in mud, but I hate mud and try and avoid it.

On the Wrangler, I run them at about 24-26psi all the time unless I air down. This provides a good ride and great traction.

On the PW, I am running them at 40psi front, 35psi rear for now. I dropped 5psi every couple of days until I like the way the tire budged a little and the tread pattern on the ground. I am thinking to try about 37 front, 32 rear next but this may not be enough pressure for the PW's weight.
 

62Blazer

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The "recommended" minimum tire psi increases 15psi for each letter from c to f.
Maybe what you are talking about are the recommended pressures for the OEM tires that are listed on every car or truck. That is assuming the vehicle is at GVW or GAWR (max weight that vehicle is designed to carry). I've never heard of a minimum pressure required for a tire or that is increases by 15 psi for each letter. Just depends on the load inflation tables of the tire. For example it's pretty common on a heavy duty pickup with E rated 80 psi max tires to have 80 psi recommended for the rear tires. Obviously if you are running the truck empty you don't need anywhere close to 80 psi in the rear tires, but for liability reasons the manufacturer wants max psi.
 

Burla

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Well, I guess we can ignore our TPMS and run it low. In fact, after this chat I think I'm going to go lower because I have my tire cel n all the time anyhow, I just opted out of TPMS's.
 

62Blazer

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Well, I guess we can ignore our TPMS and run it low. In fact, after this chat I think I'm going to go lower because I have my tire cel n all the time anyhow, I just opted out of TPMS's.
Mine has been on since about a week after buying it. Running E-rated tires at the max 65 psi makes for a rough ride, poor wear, and poor traction especially in the rear when running empty. Running 45 psi front and 35 psi rear on E rated 35x12.50R17s for the last 10k miles. Occasionally pull a 4k lb. trailer for long distances and don't bother adjusting PSI, but will pump up the rears if pulling my 8k-9k lb. trailer for longer distances on the highway.
 
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