iam_canadian22
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no issues running only fronts or backs, many just get the fronts
Bilstein 5100 leveling shocks verus Coil Spacer Reviewed Ram 1500
- Thread starter Burla
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OP
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You only need two front leveling shocks 5100's and they should run between 110 to 125 dollars each, so the entire kit is 250 max. You will need an alignment, and I would suggest one level down from the top. The shocks use your factory spring, there is nothing else to buy. I am not doing anything with my back shocks, just leaving the OEM shocks for now.
gumbellion
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cool thanks.
I found a "Kit" thats sold by a parts dealer up here in canada and for the 2 front shocks its 250 plus shipping
Or for the kit its 380 plus shipping and thats the 2 front and 2 rear. Is it worth the extra probably 150 to get the rear shocks or should i just stick with the front. I actually dont want the back of the truck to be any higher or it will get to be a PITA for the Mrs to put anything in there. and if i skip the extra 150 i will put it into something else on the truck like new headlights
I found a "Kit" thats sold by a parts dealer up here in canada and for the 2 front shocks its 250 plus shipping
Or for the kit its 380 plus shipping and thats the 2 front and 2 rear. Is it worth the extra probably 150 to get the rear shocks or should i just stick with the front. I actually dont want the back of the truck to be any higher or it will get to be a PITA for the Mrs to put anything in there. and if i skip the extra 150 i will put it into something else on the truck like new headlights
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I tend to be a penny pincher and a problem solver, so I usually ask myself is this worth it or not. For me replacing the OEM back shock is not worth it, but that is just my opinion on that. I will replace it when it wears out. The shop is replacing the axle/cv and dropping it to second position, I will update probably tomorrow after I get a chance to drive it a while and take a pic on a level surface.
lowfast
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Fair enough, I tend to be the same. Replace parts when they wear out. However, my expeience on multiple vehicles with suspension, in particular shocks, is that a matched pair front and rear tend to perform much better than a hodgepodge and are susually work the extra coin. So much so that I had Bilsteins custom built and valved front and rear for my previous F150 street truck. It was more money than I wanted to spend but in the end it was worth every penny to have a truck that rode, lowered mind you, better than stock and could take corners better than most sport sedans.
The good thing is that the rears are an easy upgrade. I say do the fronts now, try it out and if you feel the rear ride needs "fix'n" you can always pick up a matching pair for the back.
cableguy_hd
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alright I got my email with the tracking# for my 5100's. Should be here first of next week. Question---- Do you have to compress to spring during the install to achieve the lift?
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Where did you order your 5100's?
cableguy_hd
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SHOCKWHAREHOUSE.COM on 3/19....
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Thanks. Just placed an order with them in hopes they have them in stock now.
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Be Prepared to be F'n blown away with a customer service story....
So Les Shuab first set the truck 2 levels down just to get a visual on it, he said it was way too low, so they took the shocks off again and set it one level down. Replaced the axle with a killer axle shaft better then the ones that come rusty from the factory, and realigned it, for free. Dudes, this is not the first time les Shuab in Rhonert park has giving me great service. I had to have some radius arm bushings and I called everyone in 3 towns, and was priced between $450 and believe it or not $1600. Shuab did it with poly lifetime bushings for $167. These guys are for real, so shot out to them for great work and fixing it with no questions asked and an apology no less.
OK, so I have been beating my truck all afternoon testing all of this stuff. With the new level just a 1/2 inch down, the vibration when in 4wd is gone! Gunned it around 50 times in 4wd and couldn't get but one faint hint one time of a vibration. So I can't say enough I recommend like so many others just go one step down. As you can see on the tape (sorry for the blurr) but it is only 1/2 inch or so lower then top level. I will take a picture of the truck when I get around to it, but it absolutely looks just as level as it did on the other setting. You would really have to look hard to see any hint it is not level.
The truck didn't drive noticeably different by changing the level, but of course it didn't have the vibration. I will drive for a while like 6 months and report back. But so far this is an amazing level and consider have Les Shuab do yours, they stand behind their stuff. I feel bad because this must have been a total loss for them replacing my axle shaft, but they have my loyalty and will be getting my tires/wheels from them as soon as I upgrade.
Love these bilstein 5100s, go get u some and don't use those crappy coil spacers!!!
So Les Shuab first set the truck 2 levels down just to get a visual on it, he said it was way too low, so they took the shocks off again and set it one level down. Replaced the axle with a killer axle shaft better then the ones that come rusty from the factory, and realigned it, for free. Dudes, this is not the first time les Shuab in Rhonert park has giving me great service. I had to have some radius arm bushings and I called everyone in 3 towns, and was priced between $450 and believe it or not $1600. Shuab did it with poly lifetime bushings for $167. These guys are for real, so shot out to them for great work and fixing it with no questions asked and an apology no less.
OK, so I have been beating my truck all afternoon testing all of this stuff. With the new level just a 1/2 inch down, the vibration when in 4wd is gone! Gunned it around 50 times in 4wd and couldn't get but one faint hint one time of a vibration. So I can't say enough I recommend like so many others just go one step down. As you can see on the tape (sorry for the blurr) but it is only 1/2 inch or so lower then top level. I will take a picture of the truck when I get around to it, but it absolutely looks just as level as it did on the other setting. You would really have to look hard to see any hint it is not level.
The truck didn't drive noticeably different by changing the level, but of course it didn't have the vibration. I will drive for a while like 6 months and report back. But so far this is an amazing level and consider have Les Shuab do yours, they stand behind their stuff. I feel bad because this must have been a total loss for them replacing my axle shaft, but they have my loyalty and will be getting my tires/wheels from them as soon as I upgrade.
Love these bilstein 5100s, go get u some and don't use those crappy coil spacers!!!
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I don't know if I put it in this thread, but here was the measurement on the highest level of the 5100's and stock tires. Compare this to the pic above, it is only 1/2 difference but with no vibrations. So unless you are going huge with tires, just opt for 1 level down!
Post # 16 had the measurements, add the latest measurement and the 5100's are about 1/2 lower then the back on highest setting, and one inch lower with the setting on second setting- but this is for a truck with a heavy front bumper, I imagine that adds at least 1/2 of drop. have your wife sit on your truck is she is around 150 pounds or so, and that is what I'm carrying around.Absent a 200 plus pound bumper, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was exactly level.
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Post # 16 had the measurements, add the latest measurement and the 5100's are about 1/2 lower then the back on highest setting, and one inch lower with the setting on second setting- but this is for a truck with a heavy front bumper, I imagine that adds at least 1/2 of drop. have your wife sit on your truck is she is around 150 pounds or so, and that is what I'm carrying around.Absent a 200 plus pound bumper, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was exactly level.
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cableguy_hd
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I planned on doing 1 down from max
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I found an EASY way to tighten the upper shock nut.
Put a 22mm socket in a pair of vice grips and clamp the socket tight. Put the socket over the upper shock nut. Insert a 6mm allen wrench into the top hole of the Bilstein. Use both tools together to tighten the nut.
You can even do this with everything already mounted inside the truck. You'll know when you get it tight enough because the allen wrench will get difficult to turn.
SO....if you have a little knocking noise in the front after your Bilstein install....give this a shot.
Paul
Put a 22mm socket in a pair of vice grips and clamp the socket tight. Put the socket over the upper shock nut. Insert a 6mm allen wrench into the top hole of the Bilstein. Use both tools together to tighten the nut.
You can even do this with everything already mounted inside the truck. You'll know when you get it tight enough because the allen wrench will get difficult to turn.
SO....if you have a little knocking noise in the front after your Bilstein install....give this a shot.
Paul
cableguy_hd
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which set up was easier to reinstall... the spacers or the bils? since you did both on your truck. I got my bils in today and am stoked about it. just got to find a trustworthy shop to do it and that hard around these parts
Appauldd
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Both require about the same effort to get in or out. The spacers are a bit easier because you don't have to disassemble the coil over.
The Bilsteins are a bit more difficult because of the necessity to take the stock shocks apart.
The Bilsteins are a bit more difficult because of the necessity to take the stock shocks apart.
cableguy_hd
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thanks.
aIIan
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So just to clarify, the right part number for a '14 15OO is 24-187367 right?
How much of a pain in the ass are they to install?
Will I need to realign if going from stock to leveled using 5100s?
I went to too many shops to count trying to get the alignment right on my Tundra after adding spacers.
How much of a pain in the ass are they to install?
Will I need to realign if going from stock to leveled using 5100s?
I went to too many shops to count trying to get the alignment right on my Tundra after adding spacers.
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After my spacers my truck pulled right all the time, had to leave my hand on the wheel to drive straight. My theory was that the coil was not compressed equally on both sides, that the bend in the coil was on different levels. Now, it drives straight as an arrow, but yes you will need alignment. As for install, I believe you need a tool to set the level. For 80 bucks les shuab or similar will do it I'm sure.
I dont know part number.
I dont know part number.
