cam and lifter replacement gone wrong !!!

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Ricks Ram

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So the timing was off one link and I fixed that. Two of the MDS lifter in the wrong spot and I fixed that. Still have a tick on the passenger side of the truck. I know its not the manifold cause i replaced it 2 weeks ago and checked bolts again today. All is good. Looks like my next mess up was the oil. Mobil one synthetic 5w-20. Will order some redline today and put it in one i get it. The truck runs stronger than it ever has and all codes are gone. I let it set for 20mins running then drove around for about 30 mins. So bottom line truck runs great just have to stop the tick now.
That sucks to replace the lifters just to have them make noise. I've had it happen on occasion and it's frustrating to say the least.

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Dtdub34

Dtdub34

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That sucks to replace the lifters just to have them make noise. I've had it happen on occasion and it's frustrating to say the least.

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On your occasions did oil change help or did you have to do something else?
 

Ricks Ram

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On your occasions did oil change help or did you have to do something else?
This didn't happen on a Hemi. It happened on some other engines I have done in the past. So far my 14 Hemi has been ok....knock on wood. As far as the oil change goes if you're sure that everything is installed correctly I wold give it a shot. The Redline has helped others with the Hemi Tick so you never know.

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koliunia

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I'm chasing some wierd tick on my hemi. Replaced exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets, no change. Then replaced lifters last week,( lifters haven't failed ) had similar noise to yours for 20 seconds on my first startup. Then it went away. Unfortunately my original tick is still there, now I'm leaning toward leaky/ cloged injectors since it's only happening on a acceleration
 

tidefan1967

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I'm chasing some wierd tick on my hemi. Replaced exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets, no change. Then replaced lifters last week,( lifters haven't failed ) had similar noise to yours for 20 seconds on my first startup. Then it went away. Unfortunately my original tick is still there, now I'm leaning toward leaky/ cloged injectors since it's only happening on a acceleration
You replaced the lifters? How did the cam look and how many miles are on it?
 
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Dtdub34

Dtdub34

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I'm chasing some wierd tick on my hemi. Replaced exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets, no change. Then replaced lifters last week,( lifters haven't failed ) had similar noise to yours for 20 seconds on my first startup. Then it went away. Unfortunately my original tick is still there, now I'm leaning toward leaky/ cloged injectors since it's only happening on a acceleration



Did you replace the cam too? Was the old lifters messed up when you pulled them out ?
 

jws123

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Check the push rods on Pass side make sure they are clicked into rocker arms I had one slightly popped out when I redid mine making valve noise. I didnt noticed when I installed and it ran bad sounded just like this lol.
 
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Dtdub34

Dtdub34

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well I did the redline oil 5w-30 and royal purple filter and still have the tick !!! No codes and the truck is running great.
 

Dan98

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Hello everyone. If this is wrong place to post or a repeat please point me in the right direction. Anyways I did the cam and lifters replacement due to cylinder 5 misfire and that lifter was trash and cam lobe gone. After replacement its running rough and I have ticking on the other side of the motor. I really think I set the timing wrong. And the ticking could be a bad lifter or I put a MSD one in the wrong place. Has anyone else had this problem?
Your right lifters don't just get oil from crank sling they receive most of the oil from up top off the cam and head draining back to the pan
That's what your hemi isn't designed to do so your left with crank sling picked up on drain back. Good luck with redline hope it helps but the fact of the matter is poor block designs bottom line Chang out block or keep keeping on

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Dtdub34

Dtdub34

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I'm at 1000 miles with red line oil and rp oil filter and still have ticking. Either I did something wrong or just got a bad set of lifters. Truck is running good. Idle is just a touch rough and I mean just a bit not 100% smooth, but has great power and no codes at all.
 

Burla

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I'm at 1000 miles with red line oil and rp oil filter and still have ticking. Either I did something wrong or just got a bad set of lifters. Truck is running good. Idle is just a touch rough and I mean just a bit not 100% smooth, but has great power and no codes at all.

thanks for update, can you post a video of warm idle using youtube or something like that? If so put recorder under truck, or have you already done that? Are you sure it isn't exhaust bolts? Sometimes the tolerances are such that lubrication cant help, but lets rule out other things.

At some point you might do a uoa see how bad the issue is or isnt.
 

Wild one

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I'm at 1000 miles with red line oil and rp oil filter and still have ticking. Either I did something wrong or just got a bad set of lifters. Truck is running good. Idle is just a touch rough and I mean just a bit not 100% smooth, but has great power and no codes at all.

For ***** and giggles if you have a stethascope put it on each injector ,if nothing else run your fingers over each injector while it's running.Just throwing an idea at you to try,as it's not uncommon for a bad injector to be noisy and tick almost like a lifter.The fact it runs a bit rough at idle,could be an indication of a injector going south on you.
 

Burla

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I cant replay that video from other day, did you take it down? Can you get up a warm idle recording from under truck?
 
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Dtdub34

Dtdub34

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Watch "2012 ram 1500. 1000 miles with redline still have tick" on YouTube
 
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Dtdub34

Dtdub34

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Video is of cold start then fast forward and I move the camera around a bit.
 

MOPAR78

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I've read this twice and I must be missing something. If that lifter was trash and cam lobe gone, Isn't the motor trashed with the leftover metal of the trashed lifter and lobe ground down?
 

Dan98

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The motor is trash to start with. I would think the metal pieces dropped in the pan with the small amount return oil that you get with those hemi. Lifter bores might be scared.

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Dtdub34

Dtdub34

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I've read this twice and I must be missing something. If that lifter was trash and cam lobe gone, Isn't the motor trashed with the leftover metal of the trashed lifter and lobe ground down?

I don't think so. There are tons of people and mechanics that have replaced the cam and lifter and everything is fine after that. I don't know for sure.
 

WY.Ram

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The motor is trash to start with. I would think the metal pieces dropped in the pan with the small amount return oil that you get with those hemi. Lifter bores might be scared.

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From where are you coming up w this crap? If you wanna help. Great. If you wanna troll and throw worthless commentary with opinions which are obviously not borne from experience, I think there's a "Hunter Biden is boss.cn" site you should go post there.



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WY.Ram

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@Dtdub34 i think someone mentioned a stethoscope already but I will reiterate, a mechanics stethoscope or automotive stethoscope can be of help right now. They start at $8 on Amazon and the one I have found useful is the long ended attachment. "There is no through hole", the ear pieces block out engine noise and by gently touching suspected parts or areas it can help locate sometimes. Worth the low cost.

I'll keep the majority of my focus on the valve train since you have scoured over your truck, but dble check the injectors and for exhaust leaks. I'd get a good light and put eyes all over your exhaust looking for that tell-tale sign of black deposits at a leaky location.

I recently pulled my heads and lifters for a cam swap and headwork, (90k mi, developed a serious tick while driving which faded immediately, but this was on the table anyway, so..)

Have you run your engine with valve covers off and checked for any indication of the tick? Tick will be louder. With engine running place your finger (with glove on) or stethoscope carefully on each rocker arm? Be super careful obviously, don't get sucked into the fan. You should feel the tick when you land on that rocker.

Could be a pushrod like you mentioned above, not only bent but worn. Out of 16 rods I found the end of only one worn. 15 looked damn near brand new but one was worn. See pushrod pic. Obviously won't see that but you'd feel it if it were the tic, bent is definitely an option also.

When you pulled your rocker rail did you do it with a "retorque method" in a pattern or just pull the bolts all the way out, one by one? I understand by pulling all the way out one at a time there is a good chance to bend that rail. Or by installing the bolts the same way, either could and probably would result in bent rail/a bent rod.

If you get to pulling the rocker rail take the opportunity to make sure the center hole on every pushrod is clear for oil flow. This is actually the path from which the lifters receive most of their lubrication. Partially plugged or plugged may result in tick.

The push rods are reused, correct? I hate to suggest throwing more money at parts without a positive i.d. but if I were going to do that this is where I'd do it. New push rods to go with that new cam and new lifters.

Lifters - obviously this would suck to have to go this deep but ya can't stop the hunt now; reason you really wanna make sure he tick is not somewhere else.

Once this deep pull em, every one and check for hydraulic pressure being retained by the lifter. If any aren't hard as rock I personally would replace. They may not necessarily be bad but its not holding pressure I don't want be back under the heads tomorrow or hearing a tick so I'm changing em. You might very well find a couple mds lifters that have bleed off. Im not an mds expert but am strongly opinionated thats mds is snake oil and I'm going mds delete every chance I get. Will need a tuner to modify engine controls but replacing 8 mds lifters. Which really sucks because now your under both heads not just the ticky one. But MDS is a call you make, not me. If you have flat mds lifter (s) find a specialist and ask how you can be assured that little pos is pumping up when the engines running, because you gotta tick and a culprit.

Oh almost forgot, with lifters out, check the side oil port on the lifter, mds only, on mine. But each mds has a port positioned in the hole on the side of lifter mine are almost all rotated out of position in the hole, see pic. I dont know exactly but I'm pretty sure thats how MDS is turning selected cylinders 'off' using the port to manipulate hydraulic pressure in the lifter. Im pretty sure also that little port needs to be lined up properly for it all to work correctly.

I'm gonna throw mine out. I had 15 lifters hard as a rock, again 6 weeks of shut off 4 weeks of being drained, 15 held hydraulic pressure, 2 were soft (mds) and 1 sponge (mds), all my roller and roller bearings look and feel very fast, and very round.

Thats whole lotta noise from me, and if you're not burned out on it yet, outstanding and good luck. 9957dbcfa148bfb75b316bd72dc06e64.jpgfbb5a610bbf253ace27b32f43ee423f1.jpg

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 z36, EBC Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass .................
 
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