Did Lubegard Biotech kill your hemi tick??

Did Lubegard Biotech kill your hemi tick?

  • Yes, lubegard killed that tick

    Votes: 19 30.2%
  • No, lubegard didn't kill tick, yet

    Votes: 15 23.8%
  • Lubegard made hemi tick noticeably better not 100% though

    Votes: 29 46.0%

  • Total voters
    63

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Treburkulosis

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Mine is out for delivery. I will be adding it as soon it gets here.
 

QwikKota

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I don't think it had much effect on my engine but the sample size is only 2 oil changes with half a bottle each. It sounds like most are adding the whole bottle?
 

Treburkulosis

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I add a bottle every change. She's been real steady with just the usual startup tick for a few seconds, then smooth as butter.
As I have said many times before I had a really loud tick with Mobil 1 first oil change. 60k miles bought used. It was scary bad. This was back when the tick had just really become a problem. Lots of people voted Mobil 1 in the synthetic oil thread. I too voted at that time. Dig deeper into the issue and read about lubricant issues. I remembered back to the older days and building big blocks with my dad. He’d run pennzoil in everything and Castrol GTX in them. So I read it was spec so I switched. Moved on from a wix filter. Still awesome filter don’t get me wrong. I wasn’t going to fork out redline prices. Married and 5 boys. So I dumped a bottle of sea foam in the crankcase drove 100 miles so it was at like 600 miles at the time. Dumped it and went with edge and the boss filter. Did a lot of research and at the time it was part of oil change special. Went that route and I am currently at 139k and never had the tick again. Not saying that’s everyone’s solution, but that’s something to try that won’t hurt your motor. I’ll report back with if the lube guard helps my MPG. I pulled my PCV valve and I will be replacing that tomorrow.
 

tidefan1967

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As I have said many times before I had a really loud tick with Mobil 1 first oil change. 60k miles bought used. It was scary bad. This was back when the tick had just really become a problem. Lots of people voted Mobil 1 in the synthetic oil thread. I too voted at that time. Dig deeper into the issue and read about lubricant issues. I remembered back to the older days and building big blocks with my dad. He’d run pennzoil in everything and Castrol GTX in them. So I read it was spec so I switched. Moved on from a wix filter. Still awesome filter don’t get me wrong. I wasn’t going to fork out redline prices. Married and 5 boys. So I dumped a bottle of sea foam in the crankcase drove 100 miles so it was at like 600 miles at the time. Dumped it and went with edge and the boss filter. Did a lot of research and at the time it was part of oil change special. Went that route and I am currently at 139k and never had the tick again. Not saying that’s everyone’s solution, but that’s something to try that won’t hurt your motor. I’ll report back with if the lube guard helps my MPG. I pulled my PCV valve and I will be replacing that tomorrow.
The poll at the beginning of the Synthetic oil thread goes back to 2013 when that thread started so I bet if you reset those numbers they would look a lot different since probably 80% of those first few hundred pages worth of members haven't been here in years. Also after reading those 4000+ pages I guarantee your outlook on motor oil would be totally different.

I always just put in what the manual called for usually in a synthetic(or what I thought was a synthetic anyway)and changed it like every 5K miles. Now I think about putting Redline in my lawnmower, garden tractor, zero turn, etc. I also voted for PUP at the time I first read it because I didn't know any better. Now I wouldn't give a bucket of warm **** for anything Pennzoil(just my opinion)
 

Bob Macknight

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Sad to hear,lubegard`s reaction to amsoil ss oil.I purchased four bottles of lubegard a while back with the intent of using it on next oil change,only to find online ultimatesyntheticoil.com. It shows ,facts about oil addititves including slick50,prolong,zmax and others.At almost the very last section paragraph 14 it states when adding lubegard to amsoil`s ss oils it will degrade amsoils performance,ouch so now i sit on 4 bottles of lubegard as i will contnue to use amsoil ss 0w40 in my rami
 

HEMIMANN

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The poll at the beginning of the Synthetic oil thread goes back to 2013 when that thread started so I bet if you reset those numbers they would look a lot different since probably 80% of those first few hundred pages worth of members haven't been here in years. Also after reading those 4000+ pages I guarantee your outlook on motor oil would be totally different.

I always just put in what the manual called for usually in a synthetic(or what I thought was a synthetic anyway)and changed it like every 5K miles. Now I think about putting Redline in my lawnmower, garden tractor, zero turn, etc. I also voted for PUP at the time I first read it because I didn't know any better. Now I wouldn't give a bucket of warm **** for anything Pennzoil(just my opinion)

I changed from Mobil 1 to PUP in 2015 following issues with 2012 Ram 5.7 developing the tick @ around 40k miles. PUP stopped it. Both base stocks are API Group III, with perhaps PUP being a more saturated III+, so the difference was the amount of moly and the lesser volatility of PUP. The engine stopped using oil as it did with Mobil 1.

This scant, direct, user evidence told me PUP was a superior lubricant to Mobil 1. But Red Line is superior to PUP. I still use PUP in my other engines, but Red Line as the band aid for the Hemi valve train.
 

RAMTRPR

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The question is always what brand of oil. Is there any benefit based on mods or miles in running different weights, 5w20 vs. 5w30 vs. 0w40 etc.?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Travis8352

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The question is always what brand of oil. Is there any benefit based on mods or miles in running different weights, 5w20 vs. 5w30 vs. 0w40 etc.?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I run 0w40 mobil 1 with my 5.7. Mds operates the same and the engine sounds buttery smooth
 

Smokey613

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I am a firm believer in Lubeguard. The last oil change my wife put in Mobile 1 and of course I added the 15oz LG once she got home. The Hemi is still quiet so I will just let it run until the next oil change. The thing is, you can find Mobile 1 everywhere and some other oils can be hard to find. I figure if it is a good synth/blend I can throw in LG and all is good. I do need to start using a better filter though. I put Amsoil in my 2011 300C and after 600 miles the change oil indicator tripped. I reset it and about 500 miles later it tripped again. This repeated for 2000 miles and I finally changed oil and put in M1 and the oil life indicator went back to normal. I have no idea why it behaved that way, but that cured me from using Amsoil again. I know it is not the best but M1 has been real consistant for me in various makes of vehicles we have owned from 1980 until today. Since we have the Max Care 7/100K warranty I will keep the oil at 5w-20 just to keep down any questions if an engine issue arises.
 

RamHemi18

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Just got my 18 ram 1500 5.7 used a few months ago. got it with 41000 miles with an extended 7yr/100K powertrain warranty. They did an oil change when I bought it (I'm assuming PYB conventional). Oil indicator says 75% life left but I'm at about 2800 miles on the current oil. I think I will be changing soon. I don't have ticks unless I ran the truck for a few minutes, shut off, then start again (goes away after a few seconds). I did notice a tick at start up the other day in 90 degree heat after the truck was sitting at work but it went away after a few seconds. I think I will try either PP synthetic or QSUD 5w20 with a bit of this lubegard and see how it goes. Will most likely use a mobil 1 filter, fram ultra, or purolator boss as these are readily available near me. I don't really have the tick as often as some so what would it hurt?
 

Treburkulosis

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A little two day update. Truck always start a little rough when it sat over night. Yesterday I put about 70 miles on it and started it up this morning. It started very smoothly. Its never started that smooth in the 5 years its been with me.
 

Treburkulosis

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Just got my 18 ram 1500 5.7 used a few months ago. got it with 41000 miles with an extended 7yr/100K powertrain warranty. They did an oil change when I bought it (I'm assuming PYB conventional). Oil indicator says 75% life left but I'm at about 2800 miles on the current oil. I think I will be changing soon. I don't have ticks unless I ran the truck for a few minutes, shut off, then start again (goes away after a few seconds). I did notice a tick at start up the other day in 90 degree heat after the truck was sitting at work but it went away after a few seconds. I think I will try either PP synthetic or QSUD 5w20 with a bit of this lubegard and see how it goes. Will most likely use a mobil 1 filter, fram ultra, or purolator boss as these are readily available near me. I don't really have the tick as often as some so what would it hurt?
Mine did the slight tick once. As I have said many times before, I ran Mobil 1 the first oil change with a wix filter. It did the tick for a few minutes then went away. I was not going to have it, so I did seafoam in my crank case and drove 100 miles on the freeway at 60 mph. I immediately changed the oil and switched to Castrol EDGE and the Puraltor Boss Filter. Never again has the tick happened. I just updated my 2 day experience in the post above. Its good insurance and my truck is starting like a new engine again.
 
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Burla

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A little two day update. Truck always start a little rough when it sat over night. Yesterday I put about 70 miles on it and started it up this morning. It started very smoothly. Its never started that smooth in the 5 years its been with me.

welcome to the club, keep us posted.
 

QwikKota

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I am a firm believer in Lubeguard. The last oil change my wife put in Mobile 1 and of course I added the 15oz LG once she got home. The Hemi is still quiet so I will just let it run until the next oil change. The thing is, you can find Mobile 1 everywhere and some other oils can be hard to find. I figure if it is a good synth/blend I can throw in LG and all is good. I do need to start using a better filter though. I put Amsoil in my 2011 300C and after 600 miles the change oil indicator tripped. I reset it and about 500 miles later it tripped again. This repeated for 2000 miles and I finally changed oil and put in M1 and the oil life indicator went back to normal. I have no idea why it behaved that way, but that cured me from using Amsoil again. I know it is not the best but M1 has been real consistant for me in various makes of vehicles we have owned from 1980 until today. Since we have the Max Care 7/100K warranty I will keep the oil at 5w-20 just to keep down any questions if an engine issue arises.

If you have MaxCare you should be using an oil that is approved. Mobil 1 does not meet the Chrysler spec. I just run PUP because it meets the spec and is good oil. I have MaxCare as well and keep a spreadsheet of when I changed my oil along with the receipts.
 

macrolinux

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I know I'm late to this thread but reporting anyway. I just changed my oil to Redline 5w30 and the RP 20-820 filter 2 days ago. My truck is a 2010 Ram (5.7L) I bought new and have had for over 11 years. It just turned 75k miles on the odometer. It's been a great truck with not much maintenance required other than brakes, rotors, and oil changes. I also had to replace a couple of broke exhaust bolts and exhaust gasket a few years ago on one side. I think it's had the startup ticking for 3 or so years now. It just ticks for 20 or 30 seconds and then goes away. I ran acroos the Redline page on here and then these posts about the Lubegard 30901 Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant. So I've been running the Redline for a couple of days and it hasn't stopped the ticking so I went ahead and just ordered the Lubegard 30901 Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant, 15 oz. I realize I should probably give it up to about 1500 miles with the Redline to give it time to do it's thing. So I may hold off on adding the Lubegard.

Thanks,
Steve

Update: It's been two months and 1800 miles since I changed to the Redline oil and RP filter. About 500 miles after changing to Redline I also added the Lubegard. It still ticks for about 30 seconds on the first startup of the day and any subsequent startups after it's sit for an hour or so.
 
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Burla

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Update: It's been two months and 1800 miles since I changed to the Redline oil and RP filter. About 500 miles after changing to Redline I also added the Lubegard. It still ticks for about 30 seconds on the first startup of the day and any subsequent startups after it's sit for an hour or so.

Thanks for the update. The one thing that is a feature of hemi lifter tick is warm idle tick, does it tick at warm idle like when you come back from any trip you took even to the store? If it does can you possibly vid capture it? If, it never ticks at warm idle, I would look hard at exhaust bolts. Especially if the noise never changed especially at oil changes.
 

macrolinux

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Thanks for the update. The one thing that is a feature of hemi lifter tick is warm idle tick, does it tick at warm idle like when you come back from any trip you took even to the store? If it does can you possibly vid capture it? If, it never ticks at warm idle, I would look hard at exhaust bolts. Especially if the noise never changed especially at oil changes.
It does do the warm idle tick after a short trip to the store, just not as pronounced. One odd thing I've noticed that helps eliminate it sometimes is if I back in my driveway which is uphill from the road, it doesn't havee any tick when I crank it even after sitting over night. My driveway is very steep, so all of the oil i guess is at the front on the engine when I back in the driveway. Just thought I would mention that.
 
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Burla

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It does do the warm idle tick after a short trip to the store, just not as pronounced. One odd thing I've noticed that helps eliminate it sometimes is if I back in my driveway which is uphill from the road, it doesn't havee any tick when I crank it even after sitting over night. My driveway is very steep, so all of the oil i guess is at the front on the engine when I back in the driveway. Just thought I would mention that.

There have been some guys that help start this deal that found out a full sump helps stop tick. I go 8 quarts in mine, they go 7 and a half. But, since you are on a tilt, I'm not sure if that would be good or bad.
 
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