Did Redline Oil work against your Hemi Tick?

Did redline kill your hemi tick?


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mradDiction

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One more quick question, how often should I change the oil with redline. Stick to 8000 Km's, and I'm assuming I should run the rp oil filter and redline 5w30 for the rest of it's life if this works to get rid of the tick. Thanks again.
 

ramffml

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Change it at least once a year, regardless of KM's. I personally would try to change by 10,000 KM's otherwise. I've gone 12K and used oil analysis showed life left in the oil but that's beyond my comfort zone.

If you tow or idle a lot, definitely do it more often than above.
 
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Burla

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One more quick question, how often should I change the oil with redline. Stick to 8000 Km's, and I'm assuming I should run the rp oil filter and redline 5w30 for the rest of it's life if this works to get rid of the tick. Thanks again.
if you want a for sure answer invest in a used oil analysis with tbn. Redline is a long interval oil, not the longest, but in theory it should be good to 10k miles. We have had ram forum members run low on tbn before then, but those are rare.
 

Travis8352

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if you want a for sure answer invest in a used oil analysis with tbn. Redline is a long interval oil, not the longest, but in theory it should be good to 10k miles. We have had ram forum members run low on tbn before then, but those are rare.
Whats the most miles weve seen on redline so far? I think i remember someone going 12k but im sure theres been longer
 
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Burla

Burla

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Bob's had at least one 18k interval, mine was 2 years with 10k miles and still had over 3tbn. Of course that info is really useless, even as a guide, because each engine is different.
 

HEMIMANN

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I still say 5,000 mile OCI. You still have byproducts of combustion carried into a sensitive lubrication system operating solenoid pilot valves for MDS, VVT, etc. Remember the discussions on this on various threads.

These modern engines are more like Rube Goldberg Kluge machines today than an engine. Adding hydraulics to an engine lubrication circuit has always been a really bad idea. CAT / Navistar HEUI was a case in point. All sorts of pump and injector failures.
 

mradDiction

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Alright I grabbed the extra quart of oil and I am going to change it out tomorow. I'm assuming if this works I'd have to run this oil for the rest of the trucks life to keep it running smoother. Is there a point where you would go to the 5W20 Redline if you get rid of the tick or would just always stick to running 5W30 year round and always the royal purple filter. That redline stuff is pricy but if it keeps a 5-6000 dollar cam job away there really isn't any other choice. Also with using the 7.5 quarts I'm assuming that the oil will be overfilled a bit in the motor, will this affect seals etc long term? or do you only run the 7.5 quarts until the tick either goes away completely or just subsides. Thanks for answering all of my questions you guys are fantastic!
 
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Burla

Burla

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Alright I grabbed the extra quart of oil and I am going to change it out tomorow. I'm assuming if this works I'd have to run this oil for the rest of the trucks life to keep it running smoother. Is there a point where you would go to the 5W20 Redline if you get rid of the tick or would just always stick to running 5W30 year round and always the royal purple filter. That redline stuff is pricy but if it keeps a 5-6000 dollar cam job away there really isn't any other choice. Also with using the 7.5 quarts I'm assuming that the oil will be overfilled a bit in the motor, will this affect seals etc long term? or do you only run the 7.5 quarts until the tick either goes away completely or just subsides. Thanks for answering all of my questions you guys are fantastic!
My take on it, 7.5 quarts pays for itself just like large sumps in diesels pay for itself. If you felt so motivated you can use that little extra to extend the interval a little more. Professionals set the interval by tbn, if you want to use a different metric have at it. If you have a good filter that doesn't degrade, enter the dragon RP filter, then in theory I don't see much reason to change the oil as far as facts go. The other reasons to consider are wear metal #'s as high wear acts somewhat as a sand paper effect, oil viscosity a non issue with redline 5w30, and insolubles or water content. All of which are measurable if you chose to pay for it.

If memory serves me, you were someone who was in particular need of getting the most of your money, without sacrificing your engine. I don't see anyway out of actually getting one single uoa to achieve this safely. I wouldn't do it this first run, but the second redline run I would consider it.

Redline doesn't eat seals, I have ran it over a decade at this point and several times over 6 years I was cutting open filters, my hemi runs flawlessly. Not one seal problem with redline on the forum since 2010/2011. Sadly or happily depending on how you look at it, once redline kills your tick, yup you are stuck on it, because rarely if ever does someone replace the quiet with another product. I hear one or two people who say another oil is better for their ram, and I do believe them, but I don't know of anyone who killed their tick with redline 5w30 and then found something better, maybe you will be the first, dunno. If you felt so motivated, we can discuss options in syn thread where some other guys will throw some "possible" options. Let's get that tick killed first, and then we can talk about all of the things you would rather do then run the oil that killed it :)

As engines get older, less of a reason to run 20 weight oil. Tolerances increase in every engine with use.
 
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Burla

Burla

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I see your in Canada, so the other thing that may come into play is cold piston slap, not related to hemi tick, so do me a favor and do not change the oil before the coldest part of the year. If this happens, we need to either choose 0w30 redline or 5w20 redline, but let's not cross that bridge until/if we need to. If you get to your 10k miles or whatever interval you chose, hopefully it will be after the coldest part of winter. Did you have any cold piston slap at start up last winter? This would be the only reason I would see to run something else then 5w30 "if" this kills your tick. good luck with it.
 

mradDiction

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I see your in Canada, so the other thing that may come into play is cold piston slap, not related to hemi tick, so do me a favor and do not change the oil before the coldest part of the year. If this happens, we need to either choose 0w30 redline or 5w20 redline, but let's not cross that bridge until/if we need to. If you get to your 10k miles or whatever interval you chose, hopefully it will be after the coldest part of winter. Did you have any cold piston slap at start up last winter? This would be the only reason I would see to run something else then 5w30 "if" this kills your tick. good luck with it.
Yes I do live in Canada and it does get ****** cold here. I’m not entirely sure I’ve ever heard any other bad noises other than all this ticking business. I’m assuming if I’m not having issues I can just continue to run 5w30 happily. Anyways 1 step at a time hopefully this works. In regards to the 7.5 quarts again, I need layman’s terms here, I thought overfilling was a bad thing, but I understand the logic to loosen up this ****** lifter issue. Will I be a lot over the full line with the extra half quart?
 

tidefan1967

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Yes I do live in Canada and it does get ****** cold here. I’m not entirely sure I’ve ever heard any other bad noises other than all this ticking business. I’m assuming if I’m not having issues I can just continue to run 5w30 happily. Anyways 1 step at a time hopefully this works. In regards to the 7.5 quarts again, I need layman’s terms here, I thought overfilling was a bad thing, but I understand the logic to loosen up this ****** lifter issue. Will I be a lot over the full line with the extra half quart?
Yes more than likely you will, from what I recall even with just 7 quarts it showed over the line on my earlier Rams. I would just draw a line on there with a permanent marker or a scribe and not worry about it if it makes you feel better.
 
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Burla

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I have been putting 8 quarts in for 10 years.
 

HEMIMANN

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@mradDiction - RedLine uses polyol ester base oil (at least a large % of the base oil blend). This is different than a hydrocarbon chain molecule base oil....it is the reaction of an acid and an alcohol, producing a molecule that is much denser.

So, your viscosity index (change of oil flow rate with temperature) is much less sensitive to temperature. Technically, the polyol ester can have the same "pour point" temperature as the hydrocarbon, yet be much more difficult to pump to engine parts due to its higher density. The borderline pumpability test is useful here. Some oil marketers post it, some do not.

Anyway, starting with a less dense polyol ester for winter is very important to adequately flow the oil in cold ambient temperatures - it's not merely piston slap that is the only lubricated part that suffers from poor oil pumpability when it's cold out.
 

mradDiction

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So the redline is in, tick isn’t cured on first run but will report again after running it for 1500 miles or so. Here’s a couple videos


 
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Burla

Burla

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So the redline is in, tick isn’t cured on first run but will report again after running it for 1500 miles or so. Here’s a couple videos


Awesome job making a record of it, thanks. Yes, be patient, my guess you wont have to wait to 1500 miles. Thanks for the work.
 

mradDiction

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Best recordings are under engine, second best just inside tire. Anywhere else carries too many noises.
sorry I didn’t get under there but I think you guys get the just. I took a couple pictures of the old filter and new one before I put the rp one on. Any thoughts on the oil pressure gauge running high when the rev’s are high? At idle it’s dead Center. Hopefully this works but if it doesn’t part of me feels that maybe it’s a warped manifold and not an internal tick?
 

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Burla

Burla

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sorry I didn’t get under there but I think you guys get the just. I took a couple pictures of the old filter and new one before I put the rp one on. Any thoughts on the oil pressure gauge running high when the rev’s are high? At idle it’s dead Center. Hopefully this works but if it doesn’t part of me feels that maybe it’s a warped manifold and not an internal tick?
Did the noise in engine change at all? I really think it is lifter tick if it is the one I am thinking about. We will see in 500 miles partner, that is what it took for mine to go quiet. Oil pressure goes up with gas pedal, if you feel so motivated post your psi at 2k rpm, and 3k rpm, and when I get a chance I will do mine. 5w30 redline made my psi go up maybe one or two over 5w20, in other words next to nothing.
 

mradDiction

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Did the noise in engine change at all? I really think it is lifter tick if it is the one I am thinking about. We will see in 500 miles partner, that is what it took for mine to go quiet. Oil pressure goes up with gas pedal, if you feel so motivated post your psi at 2k rpm, and 3k rpm, and when I get a chance I will do mine. 5w30 redline made my psi go up maybe one or two over 5w20, in other words next to nothing.
I would say no, there is no change in the sound that I can hear as of right now but mostly city driving on it.
 

2012RAM1500RT

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I changed to redline 5W20 after 135,000 miles just giving it a try after using PUP and the next day I started it I heard a lifter for about 5 seconds at start up for the first time ever. I'll continue to watch and listen. Not dissing it, just surprised!
 

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