Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

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Wild one

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Ok, just spent $320 more....lol

Mopar valve stem seals and spark plugs

Exhaust manifold gaskets are all that's left (I hope....lol).

Running totals on purchases are:

$3885.00 Parts, tools, and supplies
$430.00 taxes and shipping

Still need trans fluid, and remflex gaskets, .
It's always a mistake to add up the bills or keep them in plain sight, if the wife finds the total,then you're in big trouble :Big Laugh:
 

JHoward

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Ok, just spent $320 more....lol

Mopar valve stem seals and spark plugs

Exhaust manifold gaskets are all that's left (I hope....lol).

Running totals on purchases are:

$3885.00 Parts, tools, and supplies
$430.00 taxes and shipping

Still need trans fluid, and remflex gaskets, .

Well, I guess borrowing $20 dollars is out now ... looks like I might have to get an job at Wal-"mark"...
 
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EdGs

EdGs

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Well, I guess borrowing $20 dollars is out now ... looks like I might have to get an job at Wal-"mark"...
I'll gladly send it to ya, J. I owe you, big time.

I just hope I get to the point where she's running again, so I can do the trans service. I'm going as fast as a turtle, it seems.

It's always a mistake to add up the bills or keep them in plain sight, if the wife finds the total,then you're in big trouble :Big Laugh:
Too late.

Actually, she handles alot of what goes where. I'd be lost without her....lol.
 
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QwikKota

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Be careful clamping down on a valve stem with a drill chuck. Most recommend doing it by hand as a radial motion can actually cut grooves. The preferred method is an oscillating style tool, not using the valve. The lapping compound is real bad for engine internals as well. It may be best to leave them alone aside from cleaning with solvent and scotch brite.
 

Yardbird

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I would go with leaving the exhaust valves alone also if the valve face didn't look rough.

I'm either seeing things that aren't there, or it's not as rough as it looks on my big screen laptop. They look rough enough to have some leakage to me.

I can't believe the price of parts and labor.

Back in 1990, I built a guys 302 in his F-100. I pulled the engine, had it bored 30 over, installed new pistons, rings, crank polished with new rod and mains, heads rebuilt, new timing components including the cam, everything.

I installed it back, test drove and stood behind it, all for $1350.00 out the door, and made some money.

These weren't necessairly all name brand parts, but most were, and he drove the truck for over 20 more years and 200k plus miles before his son-in-law getting it.

The reason for the rebuild was his wife was driving it when a radiator hose blew. She drove it until it quit and wouldn't start back.
 
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EdGs

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Be careful clamping down on a valve stem with a drill chuck. Most recommend doing it by hand as a radial motion can actually cut grooves. The preferred method is an oscillating style tool, not using the valve. The lapping compound is real bad for engine internals as well. It may be best to leave them alone aside from cleaning with solvent and scotch brite.
Yeah, if I was using the drill, I'd slip a piece of tubing over the stem, then chuck on that.

I do have some lapping compound, 220 and 400 grit, And oh yeah, silicon carbide, so it has to be cleaned out well.

I would go with leaving the exhaust valves alone also if the valve face didn't look rough.

I'm either seeing things that aren't there, or it's not as rough as it looks on my big screen laptop. They look rough enough to have some leakage to me.

I can't believe the price of parts and labor.

Back in 1990, I built a guys 302 in his F-100. I pulled the engine, had it bored 30 over, installed new pistons, rings, crank polished with new rod and mains, heads rebuilt, new timing components including the cam, everything.

I installed it back, test drove and stood behind it, all for $1350.00 out the door, and made some money.

These weren't necessairly all name brand parts, but most were, and he drove the truck for over 20 more years and 200k plus miles before his son-in-law getting it.

The reason for the rebuild was his wife was driving it when a radiator hose blew. She drove it until it quit and wouldn't start back.

Really, the only things left in the engine are the piston rings and the cam, crank, and rod bearings.

The parts were expensive, I could've saved a bit on shipping, maybe. I went OE for all critical stuff. I did have to get a couple tools, too....lol.

I think there is roughness, but from carbon buildup. I'm trying to go slow and steady, so my labor hours I'll never recoup. It is what it is.

I'm gonna fix her or die trying.
 
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Yardbird

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Yeah, if I was using the drill, I'd slip a piece of tubing over the stem, then chuck on that.

I do have some lapping compound, 220 and 400 grit, And oh yeah, silicon carbide, so it has to be cleaned out well.



Really, the only thing left in the engine are the piston rings and the cam, crank, and rod bearings.

The parts were expensive, I could've saved a bit on shipping, maybe. I went OE for all critical stuff. I did have to get a couple tools, too....lol.

I think there is roughness, but from carbon buildup. I'm trying to go slow and steady, so my labor hours I'll never recoup. It is what it is.

I'm gonna fix it or die trying.


Believe me, I have been in the situation where the need to do something the way I wanted to, and the way I had to was determined by finances.

Many a time I have had to hack job something until I could do better. In life, there are times we have to do the best we can at the time.

I do try to do my hack jobs the best I can until I can do better, which is usually when the hack job finally fails....lol
 
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EdGs

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I also bought a couple 6" x 48" 400 grit sanding belts, was debating on cutting them open, and laying them flat on my metal table, and running the heads over them lightly on the diagonal to clean up the bottom side. Once all the other parts of the heads are clean, of course.

Still pondering that.
 

Burla

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Ok, just spent $320 more....lol

Mopar valve stem seals and spark plugs

Exhaust manifold gaskets are all that's left (I hope....lol).

Running totals on purchases are:

$3885.00 Parts, tools, and supplies
$430.00 taxes and shipping

Still need trans fluid, and remflex gaskets, .
Dont go redline for zf8. maxlife or zf8.
 

Wild one

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I also bought a couple 6" x 48" 400 grit sanding belts, was debating on cutting them open, and laying them flat on my metal table, and running the heads over them lightly on the diagonal to clean up the bottom side. Once all the other parts of the heads are clean, of course.

Still pondering that.
There's lots of YT video's on DIY head surfacing,lol.I watched one the other day where a guy was using a used brake rotor,lol
 

QwikKota

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If I were out of warranty I range I definitely would have used MaxLife. Waaay cheaper.
 
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EdGs

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So regarding those valve stem seals, how do they come out? It looks like they pry out.

Don't want to make more work (or expense) for myself.

My Red Line 5w-30 and the valve lapping tool came yesterday. Gonna have an interesting weekend, it looks like.
 
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QwikKota

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Might damage the machined surface of the area under the seal prying them out. One video I watched, the guy used some channellocks on the OD of the seal's metal body to grab and twist/pry off.
 
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EdGs

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I got this tool, worked great.


My heads have alot of carbon buildup, so much that its a very slow process with brakleen and wire brushes, etc.

I was reading about using LA's Totally Awesome cleaner and it looked pretty good. Anybody use it before?
 

Wild one

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I got this tool, worked great.


My heads have alot of carbon buildup, so much that its a very slow process with brakleen and wire brushes, etc.

I was reading about using LA's Totally Awesome cleaner and it looked pretty good. Anybody use it before?
Get some cheap oven cleaner Ed.Laquer Thinner also works as a substitute for Brake Clean and is usually cheaper if you buy it in the gallon sizes.
 
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EdGs

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There is some slight pitting on the valve for #1 exhaust. However, after some hand lapping, I held the valve closed by pulling it by the stem and sprayed some brakleen in the exhaust port.

No leaking past the seat. As soon as I released pressure, the brakleen ran past the valve, as it should.

That valve was the worst looking one, so I'm gonna check the others the same way, after cleaning but without lapping, just to see what's what.
 
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