Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[Wild one]

You're welcome!!! LOL

Glad I could help you out.

Took you alot less time than me, and I think your block surfaces and pistons look cleaner than mine.

Looks good!!!

The cars 10 years old,but it's a very low milege car,so it wasn't that hard to get everything cleaned up. I used a razor blade to get the majority of the carbon off them,then hit them with a brass wire brush,,followed up by a red scotchbrite pad and carb cleaner,which is alot more then i normally do,all because of you I finally got him talked into long tubes for it,as he was being a bit of a tightwad,after dropping about $6,000 Canuck on the cam and all the goodies to go with a fairly big cam,so consequently i'll have alot more time to do the job,as the headers are probably close to 2 weeks away.He was planning on doing long tubes next year,and i told him,if he wanted to put long tubes on it next year,he was on his own,as the time to put headers on the cars,is when you have the heads off. After i gave him a heads up,on how hard the cars are to put long tubes on with the heads on,he finally seen the light

 

[EdGs]

My fingers hurt for a couple days after holding those single-edge razor blades over a few hours working on those pistons.

I didn't have a wire cup brush then, I since got a fine steel one and lightly hit the block surface today.

Two things that happened were the little white cap on the inside of the VVT solenoid plug terminals fell out and the wire tie clip that pushes over the stud for #4 MDS solenoid fell apart. I did not see them until I noticed the wire tie clip had broken apart.

I checked inside my shop vac and found 2 pieces of the clip and the little white cap.

I hope theres nothing more that broke and fell where I didn't see it. I'm trying to be careful and I keep finding stuff that makes me second-guess myself.

 

[Wild one]

My fingers hurt for a couple days after holding those single-edge razor blades over a few hours working on those pistons.

I didn't have a wire cup brush then, I since got a fine steel one and lightly hit the block surface today.

Two things that happened were the little white cap on the inside of the VVT solenoid plug terminals fell out and the wire tie clip that pushes over the stud for #4 MDS solenoid fell apart. I did not see them until I noticed the wire tie clip had broken apart.

I checked inside my shop vac and found 2 pieces of the clip and the little white cap.

I hope theres nothing more that broke and fell where I didn't see it. I'm trying to be careful and I keep finding stuff that makes me second-guess myself.

Engine heat kills alot of the under manifold clips,they get brittle,and will crack/break if you look at them wrong,lol.Glad you found the broken pieces ,alot of the plastic clips can be jury rigged back together using small zipties

 

[EdGs]

Engine heat kills alot of the under manifold clips,they get brittle,and will crack/break if you look at them wrong,lol.Glad you found the broken pieces ,alot of the plastic clips can be jury rigged back together using small zipties

Guess what? A bunch aren't going back, especially on the back of the heads, I had so much fun trying to get the intake off....lol.

It's taken me so long on this project, I hope there wasn't another clip under there I missed that broke and fell in somewhere. I did remove (maybe broke...lol) a few clips here and there.

I blew crud out beforehand, but there was still dirt left that I saw after I got the MDS solenoids out.

Now you see why I'm a chronic worrier and second-guess myself......lol.

After seeing your pics, I'm wishing I had removed my AGS and radiator. I barely had enough room to get the cam out, gonna be fun putting the new one in...lol.

 

[Wild one]

Guess what? A bunch aren't going back, especially on the back of the heads, I had so much fun trying to get the intake off....lol.

It's taken me so long on this project, I hope there wasn't another clip under there I missed that broke and fell in somewhere. I did remove (maybe broke...lol) a few clips here and there.

I blew crud out beforehand, but there was still dirt left that I saw after I got the MDS solenoids out.

Now you see why I'm a chronic worrier and second-guess myself......lol.

After seeing your pics, I'm wishing I had removed my AGS and radiator. I barely had enough room to get the cam out, gonna be fun putting the new one in...lol.

The cars have to have the rad pulled to get the cam out,and i find it easier to also pull the nose/bumper off them,as you can reach in and get at the balancer/timing cover easier. You could still pull the rad and shutters out Ed,as there's less chance of damaging the front cam bearing,that'll be the one that will get damaged if things don't go in smoothly

 

[EdGs]

The cars have to have the rad pulled to get the cam out,and i find it easier to also pull the nose/bumper off them,as you can reach in and get at the balancer/timing cover easier. You could still pull the rad and shutters out Ed,as there's less chance of damaging the front cam bearing,that'll be the one that will get damaged if things don't go in smoothly

Maybe that's where my scratch on the front cam bearing came from. It took me a few attempts to get the cam out, and it had to be turned just so to get it out.

So, its more work, Rick. Thanks alot. J/K

Paying me back for the piston top cleaning, I see.....lol

Looks like I will need more grille clips

Amazon.com

 

[Sherman Bird]

Took a closer look at that rocker, the pic makes it look worse than it is. I can feel a teeny-tiny catch with my nail right where the arrow points. I didn't have my phone to take a better pic.

Will update the pic tomorrow.
View attachment 571823

The damage to the valve stem tip forces the replacement of the rocker. How many times do you want to repeat the repair? "Don't jump over a dollar to pick up a dime!".

 

[EdGs]

The damage to the valve stem tip forces the replacement of the rocker. How many times do you want to repeat the repair? "Don't jump over a dollar to pick up a dime!".

I haven't looked that rocker over super-close yet, will do that hopefully later today. I have a bunch of other stuff yet to do before I get to the rocker reinstall.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I haven't looked that rocker over super-close yet, will do that hopefully later today. I have a bunch of other stuff yet to do before I get to the rocker reinstall.

It's a no-brainer! 2 mating/moving surfaces which require oil (lubrication) are mated by a wear-in pattern. Therefor, that scurvy look to the valve stem is mirrored by the rocker tip. Replace it. In the big context, it is a "penny ante" part/cost. Not worth the so-called savings.

 

[EdGs]

If I replace 1 rocker, should I replace all?

Another $600 I will get b itched out for.

Have to run it by the Boss first. God help me.

 

[Sherman Bird]

If I replace 1 rocker, should I replace all?

Another $600 I will get b itched out for.

Have to run it by the Boss first. God help me.

What? You want marital advice, too!

 

[EdGs]

What? You want marital advice, too!

It's not looking good, atm. I may have to take a shot at the repair as-is. I've got plenty to do first.

Stay tuned. Putting the cam and lifters in shortly.

 

[EdGs]

Cam is in.


So glad I had a harmonic balancer install kit, it had a stud with 12 x 1.75 threads to put in place of the cam bolt.

Was kind of a pain in the balls to get it lined up just so, but the longer stud from the balancer kit was long enough to get leverage on the cam to line it up.

The Red Line assembly lube was thinner than I expected, was expecting a grease consistency. Didn't take very much, glad I didn't get the pint container.....lol.

Assembly lube on the cam surface for the thrust plate install.

 

[Sherman Bird]

GM has an assembly lube the consistency of Molasses. It's been around for a LONG tine. I have used it across the board for decades.
The builders of that 2002 4.7L engine I replaced in the 2002 Ram 1500 last year used a greasy assembly lube. When I did the mandatory 500 mile and 2000 mile oil changes, the grease had migrated to the underneath of the oil filler cap, making my customer question the integrity of the head gaskets!
Inasmuch as the color and consistency WASN'T that of "milkshake" goo, I allayed his worry when I told him about the differences.

 

[EdGs]

Cam thrust plate in and torqued.

Removed stock oil pump relief spring:
Next to Hellcat relief spring, Hellcat relief spring is larger wire and longer:

 

[EdGs]

I did get the cam phaser torqued. @Ken226, that ebay tool is the shi-znit!

Well, gotta stop here, broke a bolt on timing chain guide, the first post sticky thread says 21 ft-lbs.

I was thinking that was alot for a 6mm bolt, and it was.

UPDATE: ACCORDING TO THE FSM, TORQUE ON TIMING SET BOLTS IS 8 FT-LBS. (96 IN-LBS.)

Lucky it broke away from the block and not inside or flush.

Gotta get a couple bolts from dealer now.

 

[EdGs]

Here's where I left it:

Gonna give the chain a dose of assembly lube once the guide and tensioner are set.

Picked up a pack of Dorman grade 10.9 bolts in 6 x 1.0mm x 30mm long. I will have to transfer over the coned washers.

 

[EdGs]

Does anyone have the torque values for the timing chain tensioner and guide bolts?

As near as I can tell the 9.8 bolts have a maximum tightening torque of 9.82 ft-lbs. (117 in-lbs.) The 10 9 bolts have a max of 12.5 ft-lbs. (150 in-lbs.).

I'm thinking I should be good at 9 - 9.5 ft-lbs. (108 - 114 in-lbs.). Thoughts?

The difference between the originals (aside from head height) is they have an unthreaded part under the head where the cone washer sits.

I can transfer the cone washer to the new bolts, might have to open up the ID of the washer a little.

Do you think I will be ok, or am I better off with OE bolts here?

They are not expensive, 2 OE bolts probably cost a little more than the pack of 6 Dorman bolts I bought.

By all rights, it should be ok, but once I close it up, I am comitted (and I just might be committed by the time I get done.....lol)

 

[Sherman Bird]

Nit picker!

 

[EdGs]

Nit picker!

Yep, I'm gonna need that rubber room with no corners.....lol.

I will call the local dealer tomorrow about the OE bolts. I went this far with all OE parts, makes me nervous to use something else here, especially now.

I'm looking for the factory torque specs now.