Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[Wild one]

Ok, here's the Amazon facility going in, it sits about 1/4 mile off SR-82:
View attachment 574925View attachment 574927View attachment 574928View attachment 574929View attachment 574926

Seen on our news this morning where Amazon is laying off 14,000 people,and assumed that was for Canada,but maybe it's for both their Canada and US operations

 

[EdGs]

Those are holes you want to tap,you could just as easily tap them for a NPT plug if you feel more comfortable using a pipe plug Ed. It's your call,i just used a 5/16's set screw as i have a bunch of them in various sizes,i also have a bunch of NPT plugs to,i never even really thought about using a pipe plug though,as when i was grabbing taps to thread the holes and found a 5/16's tap was just about the perfect size,i quit looking for other plugs,lol

Ok, at least I'm in the right area.

I don't really know if a pipe plug is best on these, was just a thought. I was trying to not have to get JB Weld. I knew the 1/16 npt was real close in size to 5/16.

So I just unbolt and remove the heat exchanger, tap those 2 holes, install @caulk04's bypass, and I'm done?

I got the hose clamp pliers, pretty neat they are.

 

[Wild one]

Ok, at least I'm in the right area.

I don't really know if a pipe plug is best on these, was just a thought. I was trying to not have to get JB Weld. I knew the 1/16 npt was real close in size to 5/16.

So I just unbolt and remove the heat exchanger, tap those 2 holes, install @caulk04's bypass, and I'm done?

I got the hose clamp pliers, pretty neat they are.

You're on the right track Ed,lol
You could get away without JB'ing the 5/16's plug especially if you use a bolt with thread sealant or loctite instead of a set screw like i used.A short 5/16's bolt will tighten up and with either pipe dope or loctite on it,it won't ever back out.
The first time you use the pliars on a hose clamp,you'll kick your rear for not buying them years ago

 

[EdGs]

You're on the right track Ed,lol
You could get away without JB'ing the 5/16's plug especially if you use a bolt with thread sealant or loctite instead of a set screw like i used.A short 5/16's bolt will tighten up and with either pipe dope or loctite on it,it won't ever back out.
The first time you use the pliars on a hose clamp,you'll kick your rear for not buying them years ago

Yeah, the pliers are pretty neat, except the 60mm clamp I had taken off the hose completely, they wouldn't open up enough to seat. I had to use channel locks to put the clamp on the hose, then they fit.

So, the heat exchanger just unbolts and there's only those 2 holes to plug, and then the exchanger and hoses can go bye-bye?

And on top of it, I've misplaced a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 10mm deep socket, and I cannot seem to find it anywhere, last I used it, it was on the plastic valve bracket on the intake.

Ed luck.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah, the pliers are pretty neat, except the 60mm clamp I had taken off the hose completely, they wouldn't open up enough to seat. I had to use channel locks to put the clamp on the hose, then they fit.

So, the heat exchanger just unbolts and there's only those 2 holes to plug, and then the exchanger and hoses can go bye-bye?

Yup. What's the trucks usage like Ed,does it make more short trips around town,then it does long highway trips.If the majority of it's trips are unloaded and 10 miles or less,you could even leave the factory thermostat in place,but if the truck makes more longer trips then short trips,and does do some towing then stick Jesse's bypass in it

 

[EdGs]

5 days a week, back and forth to work, 25 miles one way. No towing. Occaisional longer trips, etc.

 

[Adamcr68]

Yeah, the pliers are pretty neat, except the 60mm clamp I had taken off the hose completely, they wouldn't open up enough to seat. I had to use channel locks to put the clamp on the hose, then they fit.

So, the heat exchanger just unbolts and there's only those 2 holes to plug, and then the exchanger and hoses can go bye-bye?

And on top of it, I've misplaced a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 10mm deep socket, and I cannot seem to find it anywhere, last I used it, it was on the plastic valve bracket on the intake.

Ed luck.

The infamous 10mm curse, it will turn up after you replace it, at least that’s how it be for me.
I know any day now, I’m going to click on this thread & read about your successful completion of the rebuild!

 

[EdGs]

The infamous 10mm curse, it will turn up after you replace it, at least that’s how it be for me.
I know any day now, I’m going to click on this thread & read about your successful completion of the rebuild!

I sure hope so, but I lost the ratchet, too.....lol.

Still have to install heater hoses, dipstick tube, exhaust manifolds, a couple egr lines, alternator, starter, radiator, fan clutch, ags, grille, and shroud.

My wiring harness is all connected except ECM, body connector, alternator and starter.

Charge the battery, fill with coolant, check the oil.

A turtle is like a roadrunner compared to me.

 

[Wild one]

I sure hope so, but I lost the ratchet, too.....lol.

Still have to install heater hoses, dipstick tube, exhaust manifolds, a couple egr lines, alternator, starter, radiator, fan clutch, ags, grille, and shroud.

My wiring harness is all connected except ECM, body connector, alternator and starter.

Charge the battery, fill with coolant, check the oil.

A turtle is like a roadrunner compared to me.

Your truck doesn't have EGR Ed,that went by the wayside on the 5.7 1500's back in 09 when they went to VVT

 

[EdGs]

Your truck doesn't have EGR Ed,that went by the wayside on the 5.7 1500's back in 09 when they went to VVT

My bad, the doohickey on top of the intake manifold. Purge valve?

 

[EdGs]

My heater hoses 55056906AH arrived today

 

[Wild one]

My heater hoses 55056906AA arrived today
View attachment 574954

Now you'll be glad you have the proper hose clamp pliars to install them

 

[EdGs]

Now you'll be glad you have the proper hose clamp pliars to install them

They're actually very easy to install without the pliers, there's a little yellow clip holding the clamps loose.

The clamps are held to the hose by a little bit of overmolded rubber. You slip the hose over the nipple (he said nipple....lol) and push the yellow clip sideways, and it pops off, the clamp springs onto the hose.

Easy-peasy

I will still need those pliers for the rad and water pump/tstat clamps.

 

[Wild one]

They're actually very easy to install without the pliers, there's a little yellow clip holding the clamps loose.

The clamps are held to the hose by a little bit of overmolded rubber. You slip the hose over the nipple (he said nipple....lol) and push the yellow clip sideways, and it pops off, the clamp springs onto the hose.

Easy-peasy

I will still need those pliers for the rad and water pump/tstat clamps.

I seen the yellow clips,that must be new as when i swapped to the earlier 2012 hoses on mine several years ago,they didn't have no clips holding the clamps open,that's a definite step in the right direction for Ma Mopar
Makes me wonder if they swapped hose suppliers when Stellentis took over

 

[EdGs]

Plus, the hoses are marked:

Heater core hose marked, HTR TOP 5.7L 55056906AH

Passenger side wiring connected, coils attached. I have the Pulsar module (thank you, @JHoward), that will get installed after she's up and running.

She'll look even better once I remove those transmission heat exchanger lines.

Driver side coils installed, all vapor and vacuum lines connected.

 

[Wild one]

Plus, the hoses are marked:
View attachment 574955
Heater core hose marked, HTR TOP 5.7L 55056906AH
View attachment 574956
Passenger side wiring connected, coils attached. I have the Pulsar module (thank you, @JHoward), that will get installed after she's up and running.
View attachment 574957
She'll look even better once I remove those transmission heat exchanger lines.

Looking good Ed.If you had anything electrical bolted to the back of the heads,make sure you don't forget to reconnect it,alot of guys forget to reconnect the stuff that attaches to the back of the heads

 

[EdGs]

Looking good Ed.If you had anything electrical bolted to the back of the heads,make sure you don't forget to reconnect it,alot of guys forget to reconnect the stuff that attaches to the back of the heads

Thank you.

The only electrical on the back of the heads was a ground on the driver side head and the SRV actuator and MAP sensor. Those got reconnected first.

There is a routing clip attached to the rear driver side head, I dont think I slipped it's counterpart back onto it.

 

[EdGs]

 

[Wild one]

View attachment 574961

Throw the alternator back on,and the belt before you put the fan and shroud on Ed,easier to properly route the belt when it's out in the open like it is,and make sure the rad petcock is closed

 

[EdGs]

Throw the alternator back on,and the belt before you put the fan and shroud on Ed,easier to properly route the belt when it's out in the open like it is,and make sure the rad petcock is closed

Yeah, looks like it'd be alot easier. Radiator is still out of the truck, starter, and exhaust manifolds, too.

I'm gonna stick a battery charger on it tomorrow, and I'll be back on it Sat.

Still haven't found that 1/4" drive rachet with the 10mm deep socket.