Dreaded lifter failure

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Burla

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Would adding zinc to the oil help with the hemi tick? I know you use it for some cam break-ins.
Zinc is a AW wear additive, it sticks to itself easily and helps against wear in a well running engine, along with aw additives in the same breath the industry adds ep additives, as in extreme pressure additives, in oils you usually see it labeled aw/ep additives. For cams they slab moly lube which is an EP additive, and with hemi tick you need extreme pressure additives over anti wear additives, if the forum has proven anything this is it. There is some discussion about base oils like esters and pao can also be extreme pressure additives by themselves. Anyhow, moly needs extreme pressure to "plate" and that plate lowers the coefficient of friction like nothing else. Lots of paper on the net, BITOG and here that puts any doubt about that to bed quickly.

in early testing we had plenty of guys try zinc additives and to my knowledge not one of them were successful at killing hemi tick, but we know EP lubrication strategy has been proven to be 50% - 80% effective at killing hemi tick, depending on what strategy you follow. The most aggressive and expensive strategy is the 80% success rate and has the whole shabam, super high moly with esters and pao and high zinc for that matter. Search hemi tick polls and you can see the work, redline or lubegard and hemi tick.
 

Playwelder

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The engine had 135K miles on when I switched out the cam. Now, the switch to redline/RP filter was around 90K miles I believe, may have been less, forget, but less then 100k miles for sure. She’s a 2011 5.7.
Hi, I switched to Amsoil 5w-20 at about 25,000 miles. On my 2019 Ram big horn 1500. I hope to get many miles. Iike Clint Eastwood said Do you feel lucky.....kid lol
 

Playwelder

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I switched to Amsoil 5w-20 at 25,000 miles on my 2019 Big horn Ram 1500 with 5.7 Hemi. After watching u-tube flow videos. Iam sold on Amsoil at this time. Was wondering if anyone else runs Amsoil? I was shocked to learn of Hemi cam lifter failures.
 

Walt2137

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Just wondering how much the auto start and warm up in the winter is adding to the cam wear problem .
 

Burla

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Zinc uses phos to stick or plate, moly uses sulfur to plate. All zinc in engine oil is zddp (zinc/phos) and all moly is either tri nuclear moly or mos2, both contain sulfur. These are weapons that might help you win the lifter war, assuming it is prior to the mis fire codes, once you get a misfire, your done.
 

TomB 1269

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To me it seems clear, that every one of these failures you will see varnish build up on the lifter body. High idle time cause hot spotting. Hot spot cook oil and varnish up lifters. Lifters hang in journal, particularly with the fact they run more horizontal then vertical in these engines, due to varnish build up.
Hung lifter cause roller to slam on the cam lobe. Impacts cause premature needle bearing failure. Needle bearing failure results in more skidding on the face of lobe and more slamming until arms in which the roller axle is carried by make contact and start grinding the cam lobes down.

The fact that at idle, particularly on higher mileage engines the oil pressure is lower as well, which does not help this issue any.

Good oil, regular oil changes (less then 10K miles unless a lot, and I mean a lot of highway rolling miles), and minimize hot idling so as not to produce as much hot spotting in the engine, should lead to long life....... Give me another 3 to 5 years and I will be able to tell you if my theory is correct or note.

I do a lot of local driving, as in start, stop, shutdown repeat. I use my truck for volunteer fire department service. I have a remote starter I use mostly in the winter. I shut the truck down on scene to minimize idling. I run her hard at times and I change the oil every 6 months regardless of mileage (usually its 4000-6000 mile range)

Not a certified mechanic, just a car guys with a very good understanding of motors, and having research the issue and seen a lot of the photos.

I am curious, if using Seafoam or other "cleaning" agent Marvel, etc. once a year would help in removing the vanish as the engine ages and natural collects some??
 
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jambbii

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Has anyone looked seen how may updates the lifters have gone through since 2011? It's a fair amount.

Did a cam swap on my 2012 and at 80k it started to show the slightest wear on one of the peaks of the lobes and the roller was starting to seize up. I used "updated" lifters were the 2018 versions and they had larger needle bearings.
 

Needyourhelp

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I have a 2012 ram with the same problem I just haven’t tackled it yet I’ve been driving around very carefully. I’m currently using liquid Molly oil With WIC filter it actually quiet it down a little sorry about the errors in spelling speech texting. What parts did you buy to fix your truck?
I haven’t bought any new parts or done the job yet because all I read in the forums is they put new lifters in and they’re noisy. I wish someone would recommend a good quality parts at a reasonable price. My last quote just for parts were $2500 that’s ridiculous in my opinion
 

Scatimo

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Hi new to this.. Searched for answers but no go,,, 5.7 failed at 105.5 K, Cam 9700 to replace it, the engine that is, Great trucks if you just keep buying new ones.
 

Scatimo

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I installed new coil packs and plugs.. but it couldnt possibly help. Had a friend tell me a cam phazer failed long before the cam was fobared, whatever that means. Always 5/20 full synthetic with Mopar filters and 3 to 5k change...junk
 

ramffml

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I have a 2012 ram with the same problem I just haven’t tackled it yet I’ve been driving around very carefully. I’m currently using liquid Molly oil With WIC filter it actually quiet it down a little sorry about the errors in spelling speech texting. What parts did you buy to fix your truck?
I haven’t bought any new parts or done the job yet because all I read in the forums is they put new lifters in and they’re noisy. I wish someone would recommend a good quality parts at a reasonable price. My last quote just for parts were $2500 that’s ridiculous in my opinion

 

Venezial

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2012 1500 5.7Hemi
Bought this truck 2 years ago with 37,000 mi. Now I know why, light tapping, engine ran fine until under load when misfires and engine light came on. Had the the top of the engine redone, new cam, new lifters, gaskets etc. Ran great for a while but now the truck now has 46,000 mi exhibiting similar issues. Crazy! I want to put a remanufactured engine in this. Some companies claim to have resolved all the issues with newly drilled oil ports, aftermarket oil pump and much more... Not sure if I should find a local mechanic and try this, or should I go to Dodge Ram and have a dealer put in a Mopar crated engine. Thoughts? Recommendations?
 

ramffml

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2012 1500 5.7Hemi
Bought this truck 2 years ago with 37,000 mi. Now I know why, light tapping, engine ran fine until under load when misfires and engine light came on. Had the the top of the engine redone, new cam, new lifters, gaskets etc. Ran great for a while but now the truck now has 46,000 mi exhibiting similar issues. Crazy! I want to put a remanufactured engine in this. Some companies claim to have resolved all the issues with newly drilled oil ports, aftermarket oil pump and much more... Not sure if I should find a local mechanic and try this, or should I go to Dodge Ram and have a dealer put in a Mopar crated engine. Thoughts? Recommendations?

Thanks to @FalconHemi for posting this video in the synth thread, but definitely watch this video below in addition to the one I posted right above you. The short of it is, only run OEM lifters and make sure they actually are OEM because some overseas are selling lifters with the same part # but are not OEM and have the drilled oil ports. The other alternative is comp cam, this guys below shows you how terrible some of the aftermarket options are. The comp cams have oiled ports but the port is in the correct spot so it doesn't bleed down oil/pressure like the other ported ones do.

 

demonram

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Bought this truck 2 years ago with 37,000 mi. Now I know why, light tapping, engine ran fine until under load when misfires and engine light came on. Had the the top of the engine redone, new cam, new lifters, gaskets etc. Ran great for a while but now the truck now has 46,000 mi exhibiting similar issues. Crazy! I want to put a remanufactured engine in this. Some companies claim to have resolved all the issues with newly drilled oil ports, aftermarket oil pump and much more... Not sure if I should find a local mechanic and try this, or should I go to Dodge Ram and have a dealer put in a Mopar crated engine. Thoughts? Recommendations?
I had the lifter failure with my 2011 Sport at around 92,000 miles. RamCares worked with me and I paid a 10% co-pay for the work. Like all who have had this issue, I wonder if I could possibly have this issue again down the road. At nearly 150,000 miles now, I have not had any issues, but out of curiosity I checked Jasper Engines just to see what an engine from them would run. They have a tech article on their process for these engines that sounds like they have really done a deep dive on what the problems may be and came up with several improvements. Has anyone out there had any dealings with Jasper Engines? If so, what do you think?
 

dkelly3103

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What aftermarket warranty do you have? I believe I’m having a lifter issue as well, and I have a CarShield policy on it but I’m worried they will try to get out of it as I haven’t heard the best things about them.
 

Venezial

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What aftermarket warranty do you have? I believe I’m having a lifter issue as well, and I have a CarShield policy on it but I’m worried they will try to get out of it as I haven’t heard the best things about them.
yes I have Car Shield as well, American Auto Shield is the underwriter and the first time around my truck was laid up for two months before I finally settled with them. The cost of lifters and cam was $4700, on advice from the Ram service manager I tried to get AAS to put in a remanufactured engine, I offered to pay the difference but they refused. So now, 6000 mi later, I have to try to get them to do this all over again.
 

Venezial

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I had the lifter failure with my 2011 Sport at around 92,000 miles. RamCares worked with me and I paid a 10% co-pay for the work. Like all who have had this issue, I wonder if I could possibly have this issue again down the road. At nearly 150,000 miles now, I have not had any issues, but out of curiosity I checked Jasper Engines just to see what an engine from them would run. They have a tech article on their process for these engines that sounds like they have really done a deep dive on what the problems may be and came up with several improvements. Has anyone out there had any dealings with Jasper Engines? If so, what do you think?
I'd love to hear advice from anyone that has purchased a remanufacture, what's been your experience?
 
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Jr82murray

Jr82murray

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Ok so new engine installed,my question for everyone is would a new intake have a bunch of carbon and oil residue after 100 miles,
I was supposed to get a new intake with the install.i was charged for it but the part they ordered and was charged for was a kit with new gaskets and bolts along with the intake,
Looking at the bolts they don't look new,the intake has a sticker on top that's highly worn and residue in the intake.
FYI I have a catch can
 

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