Exhaust Manifolds | Warped

[Joe Lashley]

I'm well-aware that the 5.7L HEMI has a fairly common issue surrounding the exhaust manifold bolts, causing the "HEMI tick". About 10 days ago, I noticed my truck had a tapping noise when cold-started. I assumed that this was the infamous HEMI tick and honestly didn't give it much thought. It then started to get noticeably and progressively louder and more intense with each day. And where it would normally disappear after the engine warmed up, it's only getting softer, but not going away.

As of today, we are well beyond the "tick" stage. When started cold the noise sounds like a spoon being hammered around the inside of an empty coffee can. A very DEEP and very LOUD, TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP. There is no check engine or malfunction indicator lights, and operationally the truck appears to be driving perfectly fine. No discernible misfires, surging, loping or stalling. Power is always there. Oil level is fine, it runs Mobil1 Fully-Synethic 5W-20 and the oil doesn't appear out of sorts or discolored.

I took it into my local dealer to have them examine the truck and after about an hour and a half they came back with the news that both exhaust manifolds are "warped" and have got to be replaced. When I asked if the truck had a bad lifter, they said that upon initial inspection, their tests showed that all the lifters are operational and moving as they should but, they wouldn't know for sure until the vehicle is dismantled. They said that the exhaust manifold bolts would be replaced along with the manifolds themselves.

My question is, without being a knowledgeable mechanic, even I know that a lifter failure can cost you an engine with almost no effort. This is forcing me to put a huge amount of trust in the shop when they say nothing is wrong with the lifters and that it is merely the manifolds.

I would love to know what you all would do here. Unfortunately, my living situation and job do not afford me the ability to dismantle the truck myself and given the time of year and the fact that my only other vehicle is a Harley... having the truck down for a couple weeks torn apart isn't an option either.

Your input is appreciated. Thanks all!

I had the exact same thing happen on my 2017 right at a year ago now. Like you, it started off as a tick and faded as I went and progressed to being so loud that I could hear it with the radio on and it never stopped. I thought for sure that my truck was screwed. It wasn’t. It was all to do with the manifold. I had 3 broken bolts on the passenger side, 2 of which held the heat shield which left it flopping around. I also had 2 broken on the driver’s side. Since I knew I was going to have to pull the manifolds anyway, I went ahead and upgraded to a 1-3/4 BBK shorty header so I wouldn’t have to make any modifications. I’m glad I ordered those because when I pulled the stock one they were super warped. I popped the new ones in and it fixed everything. We were all kind of astonished that so much noise could have been caused by a few broken bolts but, that was it. I haven’t had a problem since.

 

[bigred90gt]

So I've been hearing a tick at start-up for the last month or so. It ticks for a minute or so, then stops. I've been searching trying to figure an easy way to determine if it is a broken bolt or the "hemi tick", and it seems the easiest way to find out is to tug on the heat shield. I just walked out and sure enough, the top bolt on the rear of the passenger side is broken. Lovely. Looks like I'll be buying a set of shorty headers and tearing into my truck soon.

My question is, is there any risk of damage to the heads/valves by not fixing it immediately? Headers arent exactly cheap, and I havent got them in the budget right now.

 

[El_Dude]

Another option to save money is to get the manifolds resurfaced so they're flat again. not sure how much they charge for that tho but I'm sure it's cheaper than buying new headers.

 

[ChevySlayer69]

So I've been hearing a tick at start-up for the last month or so. It ticks for a minute or so, then stops. I've been searching trying to figure an easy way to determine if it is a broken bolt or the "hemi tick", and it seems the easiest way to find out is to tug on the heat shield. I just walked out and sure enough, the top bolt on the rear of the passenger side is broken. Lovely. Looks like I'll be buying a set of shorty headers and tearing into my truck soon.

My question is, is there any risk of damage to the heads/valves by not fixing it immediately? Headers arent exactly cheap, and I havent got them in the budget right now.

not really, you'd pretty much have to run without a manifold to damage it. I'd highly recommend the resurfacing option. The shorties cost a lot more money, and the drivers side will be a PITA. the factory manifolds are lower profile.

 

[Octane]

I actually ran an inline 6 once with no manifold for a day or so,should have heard that noise and saw the flames shoot out of that head! It was awesome. Never run one like that as it'll screw it up. I've never hurt one with simple exhaust leaks. I'd resurface on a belt sander and reuse

 

[bigred90gt]

not really, you'd pretty much have to run without a manifold to damage it. I'd highly recommend the resurfacing option. The shorties cost a lot more money, and the drivers side will be a PITA. the factory manifolds are lower profile.

Unfortunately, I have to finish the job in one day, and it’s going to have to be a Saturday. My wife will be at work also, so I won’t have another vehicle to get to a machine shop, even if I could find one open and willing to do the work on a Saturday. I’ll manage with the shorties.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

I'm waiting to do this job also on my 2016. I got a "seasoned" pair of OEM manifolds off e-bay and will send them out to get sanded/planed. I have all new OEM nuts and bolts and have both OEM gaskets and Remflex gaskets. Will decide which gasket to use at the time of installation but am leaning towards the Remflex. They are thicker and build like an EGR gasket. They look like they will compress to take up any irregularities there may be. I will eventually sell whatever I don't use on e-bay and call it a day. I hope that this will be the permanent fix. Although I am still within warranty, this is not a costly fix and I look at it as preventative maintenance to a common problem. Doing it this way gives me control over what I believe others on this forum have done to much success....and I thank them all!!!

 

[bigred90gt]

Question - it’s been a long time since I’ve installed a set of headers on a vehicle (last time was around 03, on a 90 mustang). I’m planning to buy Feo Pro gaskets and just trash the ones that come with the headers. Do I need any kind of high temp sealant for the gasket, or just the gasket itself sufficient? I can’t remember what I did back then, and these gaskets are a very different design than what I used.

 

[El_Dude]

BigRed. I'm no expert, but I've been advised on this forum to use the Remflex gasket over the Felpro one. Supposedly with the Felpro's heat shield it makes it a much more bigger PITA than it already is to install the whole thing. I bought Remflex 6022 from Amazon for about $39.

You will also need gasket maker for the y-pipe side
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEOPA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some people say get arp bolts, but im going to use the bolts that came with my kooks shorties.

 

[bigred90gt]

BigRed. I'm no expert, but I've been advised on this forum to use the Remflex gasket over the Felpro one. Supposedly with the Felpro's heat shield it makes it a much more bigger PITA than it already is to install the whole thing. I bought Remflex 6022 from Amazon for about $39.

You will also need gasket maker for the y-pipe side
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEOPA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some people say get arp bolts, but im going to use the bolts that came with my kooks shorties.

I already ordered the felpro, so I’ll just make due with them. I think I can manipulate the heat shield if need be. I think I have some of the high temp exhaust gasket maker (used on my muffler when I installed it). If not, I’ll get another tube.

so none is needed for the gasket to head and gasket to header?

 

[El_Dude]

so none is needed for the gasket to head and gasket to header?

No.


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[bigred90gt]

Perfect, thank you.

 

[EdGs]

Thanks, If I ever get to the point of having it happen, I can check how deep the holes are threaded as well.

Definately dont want to bottom out the bolts for sure.

Looks like I spoke too soon, I have a broken bolt (top rear pass side). Hopefully it is the only one.

New gaskets/bolts arrive today. Also set to do brakes all around, but might let that go if parts get here early enough.

 

[EdGs]

Turns out, I had 2 broken studs, the top rear on both sides.

Both studs snapped under the head of the stud. So they were easy to get out. The hard part was getting the manifold out on the driver side, had to remove the oil dipstick tube from the block.

Both manifolds were warped at the rear cylinder about .030. I could not get all of the warpage out with the belt sander (there seemed to be a little twist to the warpage as well), but did the best I could.

No tick now, just the smell of burnt penetrating oil.....lol.

Hopefully it lasts, took me from Saturday late afternoon until 7am Sunday morning to finish the job (along with changing oil and front and rear brake pads).

 

[BlownGP]

I have had a leak in my 09 for a long time now but it always goes away around 1 minute or two.

I'm about to get another ram and I want to prevent it this time. Other than long tubes which is what I really want but just to much for a daily work truck.
Can I just get some ARP bolts and swap them out with the stock ones?

 

[El_Dude]

The problem isn't the bolts, it's the manifolds. From what I've read on this forum, if you try to remedy with stronger bolts, when the manifold starts pulling on the bolt, it can pull through the aluminum threads and then your have much bigger problem.

The two solutions I've seen is either get new aftermarket headers, or have a machine shop sand down your current manifold so that it's flat, provided it's warped.

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[BlownGP]

The problem isn't the bolts, it's the manifolds. From what I've read on this forum, if you try to remedy with stronger bolts, when the manifold starts pulling on the bolt, it can pull through the aluminum threads and then your have much bigger problem.

The two solutions I've seen is either get new aftermarket headers, or have a machine shop sand down your current manifold so that it's flat, provided it's warped.

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ooo. Yeah, that wouldn't be good. That's what I heard over the years too was the manifolds expanding and contracting breaking the weak bolts. But never heard of stronger bolts pulling the threads out of the head. BUT that makes very good sense though.

Well if that's the only options I'd rather get some long tubes or at worse shortys.
I would ever put those POS manifolds back on. lol

 

[El_Dude]

ooo. Yeah, that wouldn't be good. That's what I heard over the years too was the manifolds expanding and contracting breaking the weak bolts. But never heard of stronger bolts pulling the threads out of the head. BUT that makes very good sense though.

Well if that's the only options I'd rather get some long tubes or at worse shortys.
I would ever put those POS manifolds back on. lol

I ordered the Kooks shorties. Just waiting for better weather in Houston to get to put them in.

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[BlownGP]

I ordered the Kooks shorties. Just waiting for better weather in Houston to get to put them in.

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Kooks makes shorties? I will have to look into that..

 

[HEMIMANN]

I'd get 'em in a heartbeat if they made 'em for the 6.4. But they don't, and they won't. The HD truck frame comes up higher on the engine and is harder to retrofit.