Exhaust Manifolds | Warped

[Matthew A Kenning]

Hello Ram owners, my first post to this forum. I've been reading hear for a year since I bought my 2014 1500 4x4 with 107k. Dealing with the same broken manifold bolt issue. Gathering parts to repair myself. Based on what I have read on this forum it seems resurface with remflex gaskets and oem bolts is the way to go. My question is regarding the collector y pipe joint. Is there a gasket there that I should be replacing as well? I've seen a metal and rubber gasket listed for the truck. I've never done an exhaust manifold so trying to see it all the way through before I start.

Thanks

 

[El_Dude]

My question is regarding the collector y pipe joint. Is there a gasket there that I should be replacing as well? I've seen a metal and rubber gasket listed for the truck. I've never done an exhaust manifold so trying to see it all the way through before I start.

Thanks

Just need high temp gasket maker for the y-pipe side:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEOPA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Matthew A Kenning]

Thanks for the reply. Any idea what size of the 2 flange bolts that connect the y pipe to the collector?

 

[El_Dude]

Thanks for the reply. Any idea what size of the 2 flange bolts that connect the y pipe to the collector?

No sir. I'm not really sure.

Sent from my OnePlus 8 using Tapatalk

 

[18GSMRam]

So far your list looks good. Also, you do not need a tune to run shorty headers or long tubes. You can make more power with the headers and a tune but it is not necessary. Bolt them on and go and then do the tuning later.

Computer wont go into limp mode (or similar) or lose power with the ECU not reading the the O2 Sensors correctly (assuming long tubes with high flow cats)?

I mentioned this in another thread... the bolts on the flanges connecting the manifold and y-pipe on the passenger side are massive bent (yeah those thick ass flanges out toward the mounting holes are bent), even the flanges are bent, like someone massively over torqued them, is this common from the factory?

On closer inspection the top rear most manifold bolt does not look like the others... there is no rust or oxidation on it... all the others have some kind of oxidation... me thinks this one has been replaced,

Only had the truck for about a month so I know nothing of its history.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Computer wont go into limp mode (or similar) or lose power with the ECU not reading the the O2 Sensors correctly (assuming long tubes with high flow cats)?

I mentioned this in another thread... the bolts on the flanges connecting the manifold and y-pipe on the passenger side are massive bent (yeah those thick ass flanges out toward the mounting holes are bent), even the flanges are bent, like someone massively over torqued them, is this common from the factory?

On closer inspection the top rear most manifold bolt does not look like the others... there is no rust or oxidation on it... all the others have some kind of oxidation... me thinks this one has been replaced,

Only had the truck for about a month so I know nothing of its history.

Do you plan on installing long tubes and a
y-pipe with a single muffler or are you going with long tube headers with true duals and two mufflers. Just curious.

Now, for the oxygen sensors. Most long tube headers have the bungs installed for the upstream O2 sensors and it's up to the end user to decide on a y-pipe or true duals. No matter, if the downstream (after-catalyst) oxygen sensors are not installed the check engine light will be on. If you decide to go
cat-less you will need some custom tuning to turn off the downstream oxygen sensors and eliminate the MIL.

If you wanted to leave the downstream oxygen sensors installed while being cat-less at the same time you could try a pair of the 90° non-foulers.

Either way, the PCM will not go into limp-mode because the downstream oxygen sensors are not installed.

Also, the exhaust bolts you speak of are normally super tight from the factory.

 

[18GSMRam]

Do you plan on installing long tubes and a
y-pipe with a single muffler or are you going with long tube headers with true duals and two mufflers. Just curious.

Now, for the oxygen sensors. Most long tube headers have the bungs installed for the upstream O2 sensors and it's up to the end user to decide on a y-pipe or true duals. No matter, if the downstream (after-catalyst) oxygen sensors are not installed the check engine light will be on. If you decide to go
cat-less you will need some custom tuning to turn off the downstream oxygen sensors and eliminate the MIL.

If you wanted to leave the downstream oxygen sensors installed while being cat-less at the same time you could try a pair of the 90° non-foulers.

Either way, the PCM will not go into limp-mode because the downstream oxygen sensors are not installed.

Also, the exhaust bolts you speak of are normally super tight from the factory.

True duals, I'd go the stainless works route for the complete system, not a fan of piece mealing together a system, just my OCD.

I understand what will happen O2 wise and the CEL, I'm more interested in what the engine will do while CEL is on if there is not a custom tune. You mentioned make the upgrade but do the tune later in another post... No negative affects in the hemi? Just asking as I'm noob to the hemi world and just want to cross my T's and dot my I's should I find myself needing to fix the manifolds due to warping (fixing for me is getting ride of the manifolds and crappy factory Y and going aftermarket).

I'm absolutely surprised that so much torque needs to be used to tighten down those bolts that the flanges and bolts are bent on the y-pipe connection, never seen that before. Then again I'm used to GM where they use a more "standard" flange seal for connecting using band clamps or similar.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

True duals, I'd go the stainless works route for the complete system, not a fan of piece mealing together a system, just my OCD.

I understand what will happen O2 wise and the CEL, I'm more interested in what the engine will do while CEL is on if there is not a custom tune. You mentioned make the upgrade but do the tune later in another post... No negative affects in the hemi? Just asking as I'm noob to the hemi world and just want to cross my T's and dot my I's should I find myself needing to fix the manifolds due to warping (fixing for me is getting ride of the manifolds and crappy factory Y and going aftermarket).

I'm absolutely surprised that so much torque needs to be used to tighten down those bolts that the flanges and bolts are bent on the y-pipe connection, never seen that before. Then again I'm used to GM where they use a more "standard" flange seal for connecting using band clamps or similar.

You can run a pair of long tube headers on a 5.7 without a tune. If you are running true duals with cats and the downstream oxygen sensors installed then there won't be any issues with a check engine light.

If you are running long tubes without cats and you have the downstream oxygen sensors installed without a tune you will have to use something like the 90° non-foulers to try and keep the check engine light off. Even if the light is on you still won't experience any adverse effects. I have found that a if a pair of the 90° non-foulers does not do the trick to eliminate the MIL then I install a short set of straight non-foulers into the 90° non-foulers. I have been able to eliminate the MIL on several trucks with long tube headers and no cats by doing this.

 

[18GSMRam]

You can run a pair of long tube headers on a 5.7 without a tune. If you are running true duals with cats and the downstream oxygen sensors installed then there won't be any issues with a check engine light.

If you are running long tubes without cats and you have the downstream oxygen sensors installed without a tune you will have to use something like the 90° non-foulers to try and keep the check engine light off. Even if the light is on you still won't experience any adverse effects. I have found that a if a pair of the 90° non-foulers does not do the trick to eliminate the MIL then I install a short set of straight non-foulers into the 90° non-foulers. I have been able to eliminate the MIL on several trucks with long tube headers and no cats by doing this.

Plan is to have cats and the downstream O2 sensors installed. I'm surprised that the ecu wouldn't detect a fault, my assumption is the race cats aren't going to do a good enough job to "fool" the sensor..... but that's fantastic news if they are, makes the pill much easier to swallow not having to pony up money for exhaust and tune all at once, if it turns out to be my manifolds.

 

[GRN69CHV]

Manifold repair Thursday - under warranty | DODGE RAM FORUM - Dodge Truck Forums

Link to repair job on my truck.

 

[Richard3030]

Yeah, I have the same rattling noise which happens at random times. I thought it was the exhaust pipe banging on the frame or possibly rattling manifold shields. It is usually loud when first started on a cold morning and goes away when the truck warms up.

Yesterday, I took it to my mechanic and their inspection points to broken exhaust bolts and they recommend replacing both manifolds (an $800 repair). Hopefully, that will solve the problem. They say I'll have better fuel mileage after the repair.

 

[MartyZ]

Yeah, I have the same rattling noise which happens at random times. I thought it was the exhaust pipe banging on the frame or possibly rattling manifold shields. It is usually loud when first started on a cold morning and goes away when the truck warms up.

Yesterday, I took it to my mechanic and their inspection points to broken exhaust bolts and they recommend replacing both manifolds (an $800 repair). Hopefully, that will solve the problem. They say I'll have better fuel mileage after the repair.

Just be careful putting new OEM headers on, they too will "season" and flex causing broken bolts again down the road.

 

[Richard3030]

Just be careful putting new OEM headers on, they too will "season" and flex causing broken bolts again down the road.

Ouch! These will be cheaper aftermarket parts with warranty. Hopefully, they will last.

 

[MartyZ]

Ouch! These will be cheaper aftermarket parts with warranty. Hopefully, they will last.

From what I've read and researched it seems to be affected quicker if you live in colder climates and the truck is kept outside or in a non heated garage during winter. When you start it up it heats the manifold from really cold to hot and causes the flex quicker.

I ended up going with ARH Long Tube headers from Moe's (Vendor) Remflex gaskets, and ARP Bolts. Ill be doing a write-up on the install and broken bolt removal process when the headers get here.
Ill also be giving updates over time as I live in Winters ********, Michigan. I'm curious how well they will hold up to our random Polar Vortexes and Winter Storms.

 

[bigred90gt]

Ouch! These will be cheaper aftermarket parts with warranty. Hopefully, they will last.

You could have them pull the OeM manifolds, plane the mating surface to true it up, then reinstall. Once heat cycled and warped, they won’t warp again. If you replace them with new OeM manifolds, they will eventually do the same thing.

or go with headers, as they won’t warp either.

 

[AkNoad2]

My truck is going in for the 3rd time (2nd time for the passengers side) to have the upper rear manifold bolt replaced, after reading this thread I'm going to make sure they mill the manifold so this doesn't happen again. Drivers side seems to be holding up after having the bolts swapped out about 4-5 years ago. OEM bolts work best or are there others I should be using?

 

[MartyZ]

My truck is going in for the 3rd time (2nd time for the passengers side) to have the upper rear manifold bolt replaced, after reading this thread I'm going to make sure they mill the manifold so this doesn't happen again. Drivers side seems to be holding up after having the bolts swapped out about 4-5 years ago. OEM bolts work best or are there others I should be using?

ARP and Remflex Gaskets

 

[AkNoad2]

I don't believe ARP makes bolts for this truck.

 

[MartyZ]

I don't believe ARP makes bolts for this truck.

These part numbers will fit the 5.7l Hemi. Got the part numbers from someone else who already did them.

Hardware

• MartyZ
• Apr 14, 2021
• 1

Reflex and ARP bolts

 

[racerx909]

How is everyone removing their driver's side manifolds on 4WDs? Everything is loose and ready to come out, but I cannot figure out how to remove the dipstick tube. Any advice would be appreciated.