Factory ZF 8 speed transmission fill procedure after doing a tranny service

[Rod Knock]

@Burla @Wild one @Hemi395

I modded my grill shutters and removed 8 out of the 12. I installed LED bulbs everywhere and Xenon high beams. I thought I might do the grill shutters as well while I have everything apart. I'm about to flush my old coolant and replace it, and I will also replace the Thermostat with a 180F Mishimoto stat. Do you guys happen to know the size of the hex bit that goes into the draincock? Thank you, and I appreciate the help.

Low Beams



High Beams

 

[Burla]

@Burla @Wild one @Hemi395

I modded my grill shutters and removed 8 out of the 12. I installed LED bulbs everywhere and Xenon high beams. I thought I might do the grill shutters as well while I have everything apart. I'm about to flush my old coolant and replace it, and I will also replace the Thermostat with a 180F Mishimoto stat. Do you guys happen to know the size of the hex bit that goes into the draincock? Thank you, and I appreciate the help.

Low Beams

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High Beams

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I dont know hex size, I use my hand to remove petcock. How do you like lights, do you have a dyi thread on it? You just changed bulbs? have better light? of course you can just remove hose under rad and i think maybe that is the way to go.

 

[Hemi395]

@Burla @Wild one @Hemi395

I modded my grill shutters and removed 8 out of the 12. I installed LED bulbs everywhere and Xenon high beams. I thought I might do the grill shutters as well while I have everything apart. I'm about to flush my old coolant and replace it, and I will also replace the Thermostat with a 180F Mishimoto stat. Do you guys happen to know the size of the hex bit that goes into the draincock? Thank you, and I appreciate the help.

Low Beams

View attachment 241013

High Beams

View attachment 241014

Looks great! You're going to love the LEDs. I have Diode Dynamics SL1s in my lows/fogs and GTR CSP Minis in the highs. The CSP minis are about the only LED bulbs that comfortably fits in the high beams of the quad reflectors.

The allen key for the petcock is 3/8 I believe. But if you don't have that, a 18mm socket will fit over the outside of the pet **** and you can drain it using that.

 

[Rod Knock]

@Hemi395

I'll circle back around to the LEDs, but right now I'm doing the coolant flush thing and replacing the T-Stat with a Mishimoto 180F. How much 50/50 mix should there be in the overflow tank when the engine is cold? Thank you!

 

[Hemi395]

@Hemi395

I'll circle back around to the LEDs, but right now I'm doing the coolant flush thing and replacing the T-Stat with a Mishimoto 180F. How much 50/50 mix should there be in the overflow tank when the engine is cold? Thank you!

Just drove my truck so I can't just look at mine but I believe its about 1/3 to 1/2 up the reservoir

 

[Rod Knock]

Just drove my truck so I can't just look at mine but I believe its about 1/3 to 1/2 up the reservoir

I got one more question: the way I'm doing it is by draining the radiator and then filling it with distilled water. I've already been through 6 gallons, and the antifreeze concentration is almost gone. I'm planning on installing the new thermostat after that. Can I fill the radiator back up with straight concentrate after I reinstall the thermostat or is that a big no-no?

 

[Hemi395]

I got one more question: the way I'm doing it is by draining the radiator and then filling it with distilled water. I've already been through 6 gallons, and the antifreeze concentration is almost gone. I'm planning on installing the new thermostat after that. Can I fill the radiator back up with straight concentrate after I reinstall the thermostat or is that a big no-no?

That should work. However I would run it for 10 mins or so without the tstat installed so it mixes it well throughout the block. You definitely don't want pockets of pure water in the block....

Do you have a coolant tester?

 

[Rod Knock]

That should work. However I would run it for 10 mins or so without the tstat installed so it mixes it well throughout the block. You definitely don't want pockets of pure water in the block....

Dp you have a coolant tester?

Thank you for all the advice. Yes, I do have a coolant tester, it's a cheap Prestone from Walmart. Where do I need to be on that one? I'd like to be covered for cold weather as well because I might go to Canada this fall/winter to visit with friends.

Do you by any chance know how to remove the Radiator Petcock? I bought a new one that I'm going to install once I'm done, just for added safety.

By the way, the LEDs:

Fog Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L98C7DZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Low Beam - Hikari Ultra: https://www.amazon.com/HIKARI-Conve...ywords=hikari+ultra+h11&qid=1615694964&sr=8-5

High Beam Sylvania ZXE with Xenon: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-halogen-bulb-pack-of-2-9005szgpb2/11920750-P

The High Beam housing is tight, and I didn't have time to experiment with LEDs. I wish I would have asked you though. Maybe next time I have the headlights off I will replace the high beams with what you have.

 

[Hemi395]

Thank you for all the advice. Yes, I do have a coolant tester, it's a cheap Prestone from Walmart. Where do I need to be on that one? I'd like to be covered for cold weather as well because I might go to Canada this fall/winter to visit with friends.

Do you by any chance know how to remove the Radiator Petcock? I bought a new one that I'm going to install once I'm done, just for added safety.

By the way, the LEDs:

Fog Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L98C7DZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Low Beam - Hikari Ultra: https://www.amazon.com/HIKARI-Conve...ywords=hikari+ultra+h11&qid=1615694964&sr=8-5

High Beam Sylvania ZXE with Xenon: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-halogen-bulb-pack-of-2-9005szgpb2/11920750-P

The High Beam housing is tight, and I didn't have time to experiment with LEDs. I wish I would have asked you though. Maybe next time I have the headlights off I will replace the high beams with what you have.

You want to have around -32F freeze protection, that should be about a 50/50 mix.

I'm not sure about how to remove the petcock, when its fully open theres a hard "stop"...

 

[Rod Knock]

You want to have around -32F freeze protection, that should be about a 50/50 mix.

I'm not sure about how to remove the petcock, when its fully open theres a hard "stop"...

I fished the job around 6 this evening and everything works great. I did about a 60+/40 mix, so it's a little over 60% antifreeze in there. The Mishimoto thermostat opens at around 177F. So much for good old Japanese precision that's probably made in China, lol. With 8 grill shutters removed, my truck never ever goes over 185F now. Fuel mileage has greatly improved. Putting the hammer down now I get between 18 to 19 MPG. Before I was getting 14 to 15 MPG. And it's no longer heat soaked. Oil temperature hovers now between 195F~197F. Before it was a healthy 212F~220F. I'm sure the AMSOIL in the diffs and transfer case also helped a bit with the MPG improvement.

 

[Rod Knock]

Has anyone upgraded their transmission cooling with this?

https://revmaxconverters.com/produc...-8hp75-transmission-cooler-thermostat-bypass/

 

[Travis8352]

Has anyone upgraded their transmission cooling with this?

https://revmaxconverters.com/produc...-8hp75-transmission-cooler-thermostat-bypass/

Theres a huge thread on this part on here. 500 plus posts but ive never read it much

 

[Wild one]

Has anyone upgraded their transmission cooling with this?

https://revmaxconverters.com/produc...-8hp75-transmission-cooler-thermostat-bypass/

You must of been under a rock lately,lol. Don't waste your money on the Revmax kit,get ahold of Caulk and get one of his block-off plugs,it's cheaper,and easier to install then the revmax kit.Or if you want to go whole hog you can delete the complete heat exchanger off the side of the transmission,for less then 2 bucks,by using two 5/16" N/C set screws.

RevMax 8 speed thermostat bypass | Page 27 | DODGE RAM FORUM - Dodge Truck Forums

8hp70 heater bypass | DODGE RAM FORUM - Dodge Truck Forums

 

[Wild one]

Has anyone upgraded their transmission cooling with this?

https://revmaxconverters.com/produc...-8hp75-transmission-cooler-thermostat-bypass/

These are the bypass holes you can plug for all of 2 bucks.

 

[Rod Knock]

Thank you guys so much for all the advice and tips. I just got my new PPE oil pan delivered, and 7 quarts of Mopar 8 & 9 speed fluid. I will pm @caulk04 and definitively go with his option for the transmission.

@Wild one I definitively lived under a rock lately. Between work and my kids, my available time is slimming down.

I'm down to the brakes now. My stock rotors are in great shape, I got ~32K miles now. The stock pads are squicking, and while there is still material left on them, I don't like them at all. I was wondering between Duralast Elite and Wagner OEX, what should I choose? They cost the same. I just put new pads on my wife's 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe XL, and while the stopping power is very good and there is no noise, some lines developed on the front rotors. First, the passenger side front rotor developed one line, then the driver side developed 3 lines. I can feel them with my finger, but they are not enough to catch my fingernail. If they get worse I will replace her rotors and pads altogether. I hope I won't have to. I put Carquest Platinum Professional on hers (Made in India).

@Hemi395 Are you still using PowerStop brakes? How long do your pads last?

 

[caulk04]

Last few sets of brakes I've done (none on the Ram), I've used Wagner ThermoQuiet. I have no reason to use something else, I like them. YMMV.

All four corners of my Ram needed attention when I bought it at 30K. Pads all jammed up in the carriers. Cleaned and greased, operating nicely now.

 

[tfeni52355]

Thank you guys so much for all the advice and tips. I just got my new PPE oil pan delivered, and 7 quarts of Mopar 8 & 9 speed fluid. I will pm @caulk04 and definitively go with his option for the transmission.

@Wild one I definitively lived under a rock lately. Between work and my kids, my available time is slimming down.

I'm down to the brakes now. My stock rotors are in great shape, I got ~32K miles now. The stock pads are squicking, and while there is still material left on them, I don't like them at all. I was wondering between Duralast Elite and Wagner OEX, what should I choose? They cost the same. I just put new pads on my wife's 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe XL, and while the stopping power is very good and there is no noise, some lines developed on the front rotors. First, the passenger side front rotor developed one line, then the driver side developed 3 lines. I can feel them with my finger, but they are not enough to catch my fingernail. If they get worse I will replace her rotors and pads altogether. I hope I won't have to. I put Carquest Platinum Professional on hers (Made in India).

@Hemi395 Are you still using PowerStop brakes? How long do your pads last?

I just put PowerStop brakes and rotors on my 16 Longhorn, 70 K miles last Friday. Found right rear caliper had frozen. Good timing.

The OE brakes were working OK but I bought the PowerStops two years ago and had them sitting in my garage. I checked pads at 40K miles and had plenty of pad left. So didn’t change them then. I had no idea how long OE Brakes can last on these trucks.

Truck stops so much nicer now!


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[Hemi395]

Thank you guys so much for all the advice and tips. I just got my new PPE oil pan delivered, and 7 quarts of Mopar 8 & 9 speed fluid. I will pm @caulk04 and definitively go with his option for the transmission.

@Wild one I definitively lived under a rock lately. Between work and my kids, my available time is slimming down.

I'm down to the brakes now. My stock rotors are in great shape, I got ~32K miles now. The stock pads are squicking, and while there is still material left on them, I don't like them at all. I was wondering between Duralast Elite and Wagner OEX, what should I choose? They cost the same. I just put new pads on my wife's 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe XL, and while the stopping power is very good and there is no noise, some lines developed on the front rotors. First, the passenger side front rotor developed one line, then the driver side developed 3 lines. I can feel them with my finger, but they are not enough to catch my fingernail. If they get worse I will replace her rotors and pads altogether. I hope I won't have to. I put Carquest Platinum Professional on hers (Made in India).

@Hemi395 Are you still using PowerStop brakes? How long do your pads last?

I've only had the powerstop z36 for about a year and 7000 miles on them but so far they're amazing. I just replaced the UCAs and the front pads look basically new. They stop way better than the factory brakes, they're holding up very well to the New England salt, and they seem to be wearing really well. Probably 1000 miles of that is towing my camper too.

Highly recommend the Powerstops.

 

[chrisbh17]

I made a list of maintenance items for all of our vehicles to do this spring...very high on the list is removing and re-lubricating the caliper slider pins.

IME calipers should last a lot longer than they have (for me), because the pins (especially the lowers that are exposed the most) will eventually freeze up, taking the caliper out with them. Spending some time taking them out and adding fresh lubricant is probably as important as checking the pads.

As an aside - I just did it on my G37 last weekend and yet another stupid Nissan design: one of the rear caliper slider pins cannot come out without using a jack to jack up the lower control arm, because the radius rod is dead center in the way. So dumb.

 

[PoMansRam]

As an aside - I just did it on my G37 last weekend and yet another stupid Nissan design: one of the rear caliper slider pins cannot come out without using a jack to jack up the lower control arm, because the radius rod is dead center in the way. So dumb.

I hear ya on the Nissans. Every later model one I've owned and currently own a 2015 Versa sedan and 2019 Pathfinder are like this. You have to remove the caliper bracket to get that lower caliper pin out.

In regards to the Ram 1500 brake maintenance, to me the most important thing on these trucks is cleaning and re-lubing the rear parking brake cams that run through the rear dust plates. If all that rusts solid on you.. and it will disturbingly quickly in the rust belt, you're looking at a $1200+ shop job to get it fixed.

My 2017 took some doing to get them freed back up as they had stuck even though I used the P-brake a few times a month and I've already cleaned and lubed my 2019 once.