First Oil Change- WTF!

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mdc1990zr1

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yeah ive looked into the filter relocation. I heard mixed reviews and dont want to risk leaks. I think I'll just tough it out twice a year. maybe look into one of those udder things or a flexible funnel.
If you use a funnel or tin foil or something to cover the steering unit, I loosen the filter and let it drain all night. In the morning most of the oil is out of the filter and certainly colder at that point. Disposable plastic gloves to take the filter off and the mess is minimal. If you want to hasten the process, you can always poke a hole in the bottom of the filter with an awl, then loosen the filter a bit. Oil filter relocation kits introduce more points for potential leaks with the added fittings and hoses.
 

Jeepwalker

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I'm not sure what the dealer uses for this issue...
After doing the math it's only saving me about $25 to buy the stuff and do it myself vs what my dealer charges me...
Plus I get my heavy 35" 10plys rotated every oil change and I'm too old to shlep those things around...

What's your dealer charge? I buy PUP oil when it's on sale at Amazon...and good filters too when it's on sale. Plus I have a lot of vehicles. Last I checked it was a LOT cheaper for me to do than having the dealer ...around here ..using premium oil and filter. Unless they're running a good promotion and you don't like the mess..then yeah, best to let the dealer (or other) do it. Nothing wrong with farming it out.

The way I look at it, it would take me time to drop my tk off at a dealer, and go back and pick it up. Or wait. Time I can use to do the Tk. Plus, I like to rotate my own tires. For one, I hand-undo the lug nuts by breaker bar (so I don't pre-destroy them with an impact gun). Secondly it lets me look at brake pad wear, suspension issues ..and I usually clean the backside of the rims at the same time. So it's more than a simple rotation. Of course your dealer is probably looking things over too ("Hey...you'll never guess what we found...").

Then of course there was the time my wife (before we were married) ...the oil change place backed her car out with a big trail of oil under it. She called me. I told her to have them "push" it back in and put on the rack and check the filter. They assured her for 10 minutes everything was fine and she was being too worried. Sure enough the old filter gasket didn't come off and ...well they put on a new filter.

But yeah, oil changing isn't right for everyone. For sure. Esp people who have no idea what they're doing ...with changing oil/mechanics, etc, or really unhealthy (or old) ...and just want to 'drive' a truck.
 
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turkeybird56

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At bare minimum I buy PUP and I have 1 10-48 ro filter left and have local garage I trust do it.

I also have a Mobil 1 somewhere and have to source Fram FE filters and already bought lubeguard.
 

turkeybird56

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Use good quality hoses and you shouldn't have any leaks,it's the guys that cheap out on hoses that have leaks. Pretty well every piece of farm implement uses hoses to run cylinders etc.,and they generally operate in the 2,000+ psi range.
Over the road semi trucks with diesals have been using remote filters pretty well since they came on the scene.
City people that have never worked with hyd hoses worry more about leaks then any farm kid does,that grew up with high pressure hoses.City kids listen to the internet to much :Big Laugh:The hemi's oiling system operates at roughly 70 psi,and even if you have a high volumn pump you might see 90 psi at most,decent hoses will handle that all day long and never leak.If you want good hoses,go to your local farm implement dealer and they can make up anything you want.
Wat relocation kit U using? Have seen mixed reviews on PAC relocation kit.
 

PaleFlyer

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Try one of these:
Used it, it sucks on a 4x4 2018. But I've also reached the stage of "Screw it, I'll wipe it up later." when I do the filter. (Plus the big boy 20-*** filters with the 4x4 and the stupid coolant oil thingy... Just... Screw it.)
 

Wild one

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Wat relocation kit U using? Have seen mixed reviews on PAC relocation kit.
Mines a Transdapt kit,i had the same basic kit on my old 68Z 40+ years ago,and i never had any issues with it either. I did a minor port job on it,by rounding off all the sharp edges,and used high quality high flow -10 fittings and hoses.I kind of laugh about the guys claiming there's more chances for oil leaks,as they apparently have never been around farm equipment that uses hoses and psi's in excess of 2,000 psi,hell i think John Deere's hyd system is upwards of 3,000 psi,and the hoses on farm implements live a horrible life,so the idea of a 70 psi system blowing a good quality hyd hose is a bit laughable.My truck hot idles at 50/51 psi at roughly 750 rpm,with a stock pump,and not many guys beat on their trucks as much as my trucks been beat on,with over 700 nitrous fed dragstrip passes under it's belt and 60,000 miles of spirited street driving.I've yet to see even the high volumn pumps idle as high as my truck does with the dual remote filters,and they don't make a hell'va lot more oil pressure either at 6600 rpm,as my truck is between 75 to 78 psi at it's 6600 rpm shift points.I can also run huge 3/4-16 thread pitch filters with my set-up,and sure doing an oil change is a bit pricey,but it's also a pleasure to do :waytogo: :Big Laugh:
 

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Jeepwalker

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Why bother with a relocation kit? Hoses with screw clamps on them??? Obviously enough people here can get at the filter ok. A guy is just adding expense & failure points.
 

ppine

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I could say the same thing about the engine fuel filter placement. It is easy to get the idea that they make it hard on purpose so people will take their vehicles to the dealer. The good news is that the change intervals are much longer. We used to change oil every 3000 miles.
 

Jeepwalker

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There is no replaceable fuel filter on most 1500 trucks (except diesel). Or is that your point (in the tank)?
 

turkeybird56

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Mines a Transdapt kit,i had the same basic kit on my old 68Z 40+ years ago,and i never had any issues with it either. I did a minor port job on it,by rounding off all the sharp edges,and used high quality high flow -10 fittings and hoses.I kind of laugh about the guys claiming there's more chances for oil leaks,as they apparently have never been around farm equipment that uses hoses and psi's in excess of 2,000 psi,hell i think John Deere's hyd system is upwards of 3,000 psi,and the hoses on farm implements live a horrible life,so the idea of a 70 psi system blowing a good quality hyd hose is a bit laughable.My truck hot idles at 50/51 psi at roughly 750 rpm,with a stock pump,and not many guys beat on their trucks as much as my trucks been beat on,with over 700 nitrous fed dragstrip passes under it's belt and 60,000 miles of spirited street driving.I've yet to see even the high volumn pumps idle as high as my truck does with the dual remote filters,and they don't make a hell'va lot more oil pressure either at 6600 rpm,as my truck is between 75 to 78 psi at it's 6600 rpm shift points.I can also run huge 3/4-16 thread pitch filters with my set-up,and sure doing an oil change is a bit pricey,but it's also a pleasure to do :waytogo: :Big Laugh:
On my stock early build 5th gen I get 51/55 psi till warms up than falls to 35. Once warm I run 49:50 psi under load . Just 5W20 Pup with 15 oz lubeguard. Next change gonna change out 2 qts from 5w20 to 5w 30.

@Burla

Since I change basically once a year am I good on lubeguard or should I do every change? Proud owner driveway princess.
 

Wild one

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Why bother with a relocation kit? Hoses with screw clamps on them??? Obviously enough people here can get at the filter ok. A guy is just adding expense & failure points.
Push lock hoses,it doesn't need extra clamps,but i added them for more piece of mind.You're jumping to conculisions there lad :Big Laugh: I'll lay odds my truck makes more oil pressure with my set-up then your truck ever will with a stock set-up,also holds more oil and has better oil cooling with the dual filters.So my question to you is why not do a filter relocation kit.Little tidbit for you,the Hellcats use 2 stand alone oil coolers with hoses and fittings feeding oil to them,do you see many Hellcat owners worrying about oil leaks to the point they remove the coolers,because they might leak.What about your transmissions cooler,are you removing it,because it might leak,it has hardlines and hoses feeding it. You're making a mountain out of a molehill .Engine oil coolers have used hoses since the dawn of time to feed them, a relocated filter is no differant
 

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yum

 

Wild one

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yum

I told you about our old neighbour who used to save all his used oil and mix it with diesal,and then spray it on all his vehicles,and alot of his farm machinery in the fall,and his stuff never rusted
 

Jeepwalker

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Push lock hoses,it doesn't need extra clamps,but i added them for more piece of mind.You're jumping to conculisions there lad..

You're very thorough... :waytogo:
 

06 Dodge

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I told you about our old neighbour who used to save all his used oil and mix it with diesal,and then spray it on all his vehicles,and alot of his farm machinery in the fall,and his stuff never rusted
That type of mix is also good to use to soak fence post ends before you put them in the ground then spray after wire fence is installed to help repel insects from eating the wood :33:
 

Fatbob Frank

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What's your dealer charge? I buy PUP oil when it's on sale at Amazon...and good filters too when it's on sale. Plus I have a lot of vehicles. Last I checked it was a LOT cheaper for me to do than having the dealer ...around here ..using premium oil and filter. Unless they're running a good promotion and you don't like the mess..then yeah, best to let the dealer (or other) do it. Nothing wrong with farming it out.

The way I look at it, it would take me time to drop my tk off at a dealer, and go back and pick it up. Or wait. Time I can use to do the Tk. Plus, I like to rotate my own tires. For one, I hand-undo the lug nuts by breaker bar (so I don't pre-destroy them with an impact gun). Secondly it lets me look at brake pad wear, suspension issues ..and I usually clean the backside of the rims at the same time. So it's more than a simple rotation. Of course your dealer is probably looking things over too ("Hey...you'll never guess what we found...").

Then of course there was the time my wife (before we were married) ...the oil change place backed her car out with a big trail of oil under it. She called me. I told her to have them "push" it back in and put on the rack and check the filter. They assured her for 10 minutes everything was fine and she was being too worried. Sure enough the old filter gasket didn't come off and ...well they put on a new filter.

But yeah, oil changing isn't right for everyone. For sure. Esp people who have no idea what they're doing ...with changing oil/mechanics, etc, or really unhealthy (or old) ...and just want to 'drive' a truck.
I change my own oil on 2 Harleys , my Polaris General and my wife's Jeep Wrangler already...
As to my PW - 7qts of Mobile 1 and a Fram filter costs me over $85 (at Wal-mart prices)
Dealer Charges me $110 with a Mopar filter and another $15 for the tire rotation...
The hour I wait in the lounge is probably less than I would spend in my garage doing it myself...
I suppose I could save a little $$$ going to Rotella oil but Mobile 1 is what it's had in it since it was new and I see no reason to switch.
 
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David James

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Just did my first oil change and all I have to say is what in the sam hell were they thinking with that oil filter placement! Even using a big zip lock bag over the filter it was a mess. By far the worst oil filter placement I've ever seen on a vehicle and I've owned over 20 vehicles! Rant over.
My solution has been to purchase OEM spec motor oil along with an OEM compatible oil filter, take them to the dealer, and let them do it. Originally they charged me about $14 and several years later it has gone up to about $25. They put it on the lift, they perform the labor, they check and add washer fluid and the rest, they give the rest of the vehicle a full check to include brake lining and tire depth. I take the truck to the tire store where I bought replacement tires for a n/c rotation right afterwards. It’s cheap insurance every 5 k miles. Not all dealers do this, but mine, Chrysler of Culpeper, is an honest and thorough shop.
 

jimmyfjk

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i can answer which works best the big bendable funnel or the oil udder. The udder is by far the best. I have tried everything including first the ziplock. it worked ok until the second time i let the thing slip and took a face bath in hot oil. got the funnel and it was ok but still lots of oil splash. i ordered the OiL Udder, i got the larger one. i put a drain pipe on it and a catch can under that. i went the larger Udder because i wanted to pull the lip down and punch a hole in the filter with a punch and let it drain before ever even removing the filter. it works great. i do not spill a drop now. got it off amazon. just checked and they still offer the xl for 29.00. well worth it. i use a long punch and with one edge pulled down punch a hole and let it drain.
 

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3 Ram Jake

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Just did my first oil change and all I have to say is what in the sam hell were they thinking with that oil filter placement! Even using a big zip lock bag over the filter it was a mess. By far the worst oil filter placement I've ever seen on a vehicle and I've owned over 20 vehicles! Rant over.
After the first oil and filter change and since I change oil twice as frequently as factory recommends I went to changing the premium oil filter at every other oil change, mostly because it is a P.I.A.!
 

weldguy

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That's probably why Valvoline oil change places SUCK the oil out from the top of the engine. I was shocked to see that on a cruiser recently. The guy there said they do it that way on most everything now.
Not a fan. How does anything on the very bottom of the pan get removed?
 
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