First Start after Cam Swap. Help pls!

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CunningStunt

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The Good:

It started and ran, drove it up the rode and back after it warmed up. The lifters sound like "sewing machines" not loud but very light, uniform, clickity clackety.

The bad:

P0016
P0300
P000B

Radiator leaks from the inlet plenum/tube sheet area...

It doesn't run with a studder, but it sounds like a diesel and it's sluggish...

It idles as if it has an aggressive cam (Its an NSR NTR MDS Cam), but it is uniform.

My thoughts:

I tried to maintain timing by zip tying the chain to the side without dropping the chain of the oil pump sprocket. I personally think that I am off on timing by a chain link or two...

Thoughts????
 

rvance

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All I can say is to check the air filters. I bought a California 17 and the engine and cabin air filters were both clogged with dust. 3 years later dust is still coming out from under the bed liner.
 
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CunningStunt

CunningStunt

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Since im
I would check your VVT(VCT) Valve under intake first. Make sure connector is plugged up good and and sure no pins pushed out off to side if that checks out pull it and check it for damage like in video thats a starting point cause it will throw both of them codes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05OGucfsudI&t=173s
Since I have to remove a bunch anyways, I will check this first, but...I never had these codes before parking it to do the cam/lifters. I think I skipped a link or two when reinstalling the phaser...sucks...It looks like im gonna have to remove oil pump to time it if it's not the VVT Sol...and I have a 4wd. Definitely a letdown after weeks of work, after work lol
 

RamRod37

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Since im

Since I have to remove a bunch anyways, I will check this first, but...I never had these codes before parking it to do the cam/lifters. I think I skipped a link or two when reinstalling the phaser...sucks...It looks like im gonna have to remove oil pump to time it if it's not the VVT Sol...and I have a 4wd. Definitely a letdown after weeks of work, after work lol
very much possible that its off a few teeth always check the easier stuff first been there believe me I know it sucks. That's main reason I quit my last job because of a job done a Tahoe came in for a simple lifter replacement had one on cylinder 6 collapsed done many should have been in and out in a little more than one shift I tore that SOB down and put it back three times first time ticked like a ******* on all cylinders boss says well you did not soak your lifters break it down and soak them (by the way I never soaked my lifters before never had a Problem with oil pump building up after start up) so I did what was suppose to be over night turned into a week before he turned me loose off the small **** to put it back well guess what put it back still same thing so I am ticked off he is blaming me for something I done and I go ask where did them lifters come from he pulls up a amazon link and what do you know 2 stars out of 5 and 17 written reviews and all says same thing tick like hell do not buy . I was mad as heck but put it aside hoping he would at some point comp me for the extra time I spent because of his mistake but no 2 weeks later he jumped me for taking 5 min to clear my head on new current job and said hell with it still have not seen my money and the SOB withheld my last check. Anyway got off target there yeah check valve first then the pita of pulling timing cover
 

Old Dirty

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Man that sucks. I'm sure you already know to also make sure that all of your pushrod's are fully seated.
Keep us updated with your findings and how it ends. Good luck, I'll be digging into a 2013 soon. Would like to know what/who's hardware and perhaps tuner you went with.
 
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CunningStunt

CunningStunt

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Man that sucks. I'm sure you already know to also make sure that all of your pushrod's are fully seated.
Keep us updated with your findings and how it ends. Good luck, I'll be digging into a 2013 soon. Would like to know what/who's hardware and perhaps tuner you went with.
I rotated engine a hundred times to make sure pushrods were seated before putting valve covers on, as I know that's a common issue...and it was a PITA seating those rods in the lifter sockets lol.

When the engine is running, I can hear the lifters and they sound great, but theres this low, loud, and diesel like humm to the engine...
 

Old Dirty

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Yeah, that's gotta make you a little sick to your stomach I bet. Hopefully somebody's had this experience and rectified such issue. Hope you get it figured out before long. You've gotten this far, if you have to tear it back down and go the extra mile, as you've suspected, just remember that hard work pays off in the long run and this too will pass. Wish you the best on this endeavor.
 
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CunningStunt

CunningStunt

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Yeah, that's gotta make you a little sick to your stomach I bet. Hopefully somebody's had this experience and rectified such issue. Hope you get it figured out before long. You've gotten this far, if you have to tear it back down and go the extra mile, as you've suspected, just remember that hard work pays off in the long run and this too will pass. Wish you the best on this endeavor.
Genuinely appreciate that!!! You hit the nail on the head...I am definitely a bit sick to my stomach...
 

OcallyRamFam

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Hey bud. Yea I’d support your reasoning that you weren’t at TDC when reinstalling the timing chain. IMO All of those codes support that as well.
Obviously check loose connections first as mentioned above but I’m pretty confident you’re crank and/or cam are not simpatico with TDC.
 
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CunningStunt

CunningStunt

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Hey bud. Yea I’d support your reasoning that you weren’t at TDC when reinstalling the timing chain. IMO All of those codes support that as well.
Obviously check loose connections first as mentioned above but I’m pretty confident you’re crank and/or cam are not simpatico with TDC.
Thank you kindly for the reply! I am definitely leaning towards timing, which sucks cus I tried to maintain timing by keeping chain on bottom sprocket but when installing phaser and releasing chain, I had a hell of a time getting phaser on the new cam key...

I have been looking up timing this motor and it looks like I may have to remove oil pump...and I am 4wd...any advice/tips?

This forum has been a blessing and I truly appreciate everyone's help!
 
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CunningStunt

CunningStunt

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very much possible that its off a few teeth always check the easier stuff first been there believe me I know it sucks. That's main reason I quit my last job because of a job done a Tahoe came in for a simple lifter replacement had one on cylinder 6 collapsed done many should have been in and out in a little more than one shift I tore that SOB down and put it back three times first time ticked like a ******* on all cylinders boss says well you did not soak your lifters break it down and soak them (by the way I never soaked my lifters before never had a Problem with oil pump building up after start up) so I did what was suppose to be over night turned into a week before he turned me loose off the small **** to put it back well guess what put it back still same thing so I am ticked off he is blaming me for something I done and I go ask where did them lifters come from he pulls up a amazon link and what do you know 2 stars out of 5 and 17 written reviews and all says same thing tick like hell do not buy . I was mad as heck but put it aside hoping he would at some point comp me for the extra time I spent because of his mistake but no 2 weeks later he jumped me for taking 5 min to clear my head on new current job and said hell with it still have not seen my money and the SOB withheld my last check. Anyway got off target there yeah check valve first then the pita of pulling timing cover
Yeah, I have heard those chinese lifters make a raucous, I appreciate you still following brother!
 

RamRod37

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crank mark at 6 O clock and Cam at 12 O clock timing chain should still be able to find the marks on it the double link sets one on each side of crank mark and the single link lines up with cam mark OIP.jpg
 

RamRod37

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0219210646_HDR.jpg
this was mine the double apparently can go each way the illustration I saw on mine was reverse as seen here this was mine so the double set on each side of mark and the other single link in line which ever they used factory lines up on top of it
 

Wild one

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So, do I have to remove the heads again, or is there a secret to finding TDC?
Long screwdriver in one of the plugs on #1 cylinder,rotate crank slowly by hand till the screwdriver quits moving up,if it starts moving down,rotate the crank back slightly.Old school way,but it still works,or else buy a crank stop for the plug hole,but the screwdriver trick is cheaper.
 

RamRod37

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Long screwdriver in one of the plugs on #1 cylinder,rotate crank slowly by hand till the screwdriver quits moving up,if it starts moving down,rotate the crank back slightly.Old school way,but it still works,or else buy a crank stop for the plug hole,but the screwdriver trick is cheaper.
dont need all that nonsense anyway turn crank mark to 6 O clock there its at top TDC
 

jws123

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Almost every time I see a cam thread I reply and say take the oil pump off for timing or it will bite you in the ass! and ppl almost never listen lol. But I hope it works out for you its most likely something stupid/simple there is always something we all do it.
 
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