Kicker Cs vs Ks 3.5 anyone running these in dash?

[Ecofx86]

I'm currently running the DS 3.5 in the dash. This weekend I'm installing 4 channel alpine amp. I know these Ds can only handle 20 watts so I'm taking them out.

Can anyone give me advice on the difference between the KS and the CS 3.5?

Anyone have these installed in dash hooked to an amp?

 

[Graygoose]

I run the KS3504. The 46CSC354's are a tad shallower, but both sound amazing.
And I did a 6x9 midbass in the front door, and a Kicker KEY1804 amp to them 4. Used the auto DSP

 

[kkreit01]

I wouldn't power the dash speakers (unless I had some real high-quality 3" midrange with cross-over/processing). Usually, the dash speakers are overbearing the way it is. It will only get more harsh.

I initially replaced my dash speakers with some Dayton full-range. I didn't like the result. Next, I replaced my front door speakers with Morel Tempo Ultra (already had). The dash speakers were still too harsh (even though they are 8 ohms). I removed the dash speakers, and now it's much better. Once I add my amp to power the front door speakers, I may try putting the dash speakers back in, and run off deck power.

 

[toejam]

Infinity Kappa Perfect 300m 3.5" Mids

 

[magician]

Tried both amped and running off the HU only, still too bright. Tried the resistor, same thing. Currently I’m running the Mopar replacement 77kick dash only speakers off the head unit with the amp powering only the front and rear door Kicker 6x9’s. This to me is the best sound out of all the choices so far. I still have the treble turned down on the EQ but not anywhere near as far as with the other speaker choices.

I’m running an Aline PDR F50 4 Channel amp in my truck with Kicker DS 6x9’ in both front and rear doors.

Good luck.

 

[Ecofx86]

Tried both amped and running off the HU only, still too bright. Tried the resistor, same thing. Currently I’m running the Mopar replacement 77kick dash only speakers off the head unit with the amp powering only the front and rear door Kicker 6x9’s. This to me is the best sound out of all the choices so far. I still have the treble turned down on the EQ but not anywhere near as far as with the other speaker choices.

I’m running an Aline PDR F50 4 Channel amp in my truck with Kicker DS 6x9’ in both front and rear doors.

Good luck.

how did u separate the front speaker from the dash speaker? do u run new wires to your doors? how u got signal to amp?

 

[bigred74]

I have the ks component speakers in my doors and placed the tweeters in the dash location. All hooked to my amp but that way the tweeters are ran off the crossover so you can select how loud you want them. I have mine on the middle selection

 

[magician]

how did u separate the front speaker from the dash speaker? do u run new wires to your doors? how u got signal to amp?

I ran speed wire from behind the dash under the carpet and drivers seat to where I mounted the amp. I spliced into the factory harness behind the HU for the runs to the amp and back to the door speakers. I split the fronts so I could pair off for dash speakers. I didn’t run new speaker wires since the factory wiring is plenty for the Alpine amp.

 

[Ecofx86]

did u have to put resistors on your input from hu to amp?

 

[magician]

did u have to put resistors on your input from hu to amp?

Tried that as well and even though it does make a difference the 3.5’s out of the Mopar Kicker Upgrade speakers to me, simply work and sound the best when compared with everything else I’ve tried. Most likely there is little difference between the Mopar Kicjers and DS Kickers once the resistor is in play. I say that because I’ve run one each at the same time to see if there was a difference and my ears couldn’t tell. The HU EQ settings are a little different to achieve the same approximate sound. I listen to loud music when I drive and good clean sound is what I have right now with this setup.

Just a heads up to you, once you start putting more into and getting more out of those door speakers, expect some rattles from switches and some of the loose plastic welds on the inside door panels. You’ll be wanting to add some sound deader material to quiet that down. I used strips as opposed to full or sectioned sheets since I didn’t want all the added weight.

Good luck, chasing a good sounding sound system is addictive.

 

[Ecofx86]

I mean the resistors so the headunit would send a signal to the amp? if u juts cut the factory wires n run the high level to the amp, don't u need some resistors for the headunit to send signal?

 

[ThunderMug95]

i have the CS Kickers all around and even with a 4ohm resistor on the 4ohm dash CS354’s it is loud off of my RA2. Weird feeling to feel air pushed out of the doors from 6x9’s though...no amp.
I cant imagine adding any power to the dash speakers, even with windows down, highway speeds, all the highs I could ever need

 

[magician]

I mean the resistors so the headunit would send a signal to the amp? if u juts cut the factory wires n run the high level to the amp, don't u need some resistors for the headunit to send signal?

Never heard of doing that for an amp? The Alpine as well as most other amps should easily handle the output of the head unit.

 

[Ecofx86]

Never heard of doing that for an amp? The Alpine as well as most other amps should easily handle the output of the head unit.[/QU

If you are installing a 4-channel or 5-channel amplifier, or a multi-channel processor, then this is what you need. If the radio doesn’t see a speaker, or a load, then it will turn off the output of that channel. Meaning, you can do the best and prettiest install, but if the radio doesn’t see a “speaker”, then there won’t be any sound. This harness comes with the load resistors pre-installed on the harness, so your signal will be taken care of. We also add a foot of speaker wire to make adding your own wiring a bit easier.

thats the reason I bought the T harness from net audio instead of cutting my factory wires behind the head unit.

So you have no resistors on your input from radio to amp?

radio still puts out signal?

 

[magician]

If you are installing a 4-channel or 5-channel amplifier, or a multi-channel processor, then this is what you need. If the radio doesn’t see a speaker, or a load, then it will turn off the output of that channel. Meaning, you can do the best and prettiest install, but if the radio doesn’t see a “speaker”, then there won’t be any sound. This harness comes with the load resistors pre-installed on the harness, so your signal will be taken care of. We also add a foot of speaker wire to make adding your own wiring a bit easier.

thats the reason I bought the T harness from net audio instead of cutting my factory wires behind the head unit.

So you have no resistors on your input from radio to amp?

radio still puts out signal?

Still puts out the same signal even after splitting the front channel to power the dash speakers from the HU. My amp is Alpine PDR F50 4 Channel amp.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Infinity kappa perfect 3.5" midrange next to alpine 3.5" full range. Infinity is the way to go if you plan on amplifying them, which eliminates the need for messing with resistors.

 

[likes2build]

I ran the Kicker 43CSC354 in the dash and even though the box from Crutchfield lists them as being 4 ohm, the Kicker site lists them as 3.2 ohm so I added 4.7 ohm resistors I had. Perfect sound!!

Here's the best thread ever for the resistor theory and install, courtesy of @PowrRam. It's really great no matter what speakers you run in the dash.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-4-ohm-resistor-upgrade-for-aftermarket-dash-speakers.125742/

 

[Ecofx86]

Infinity kappa perfect 3.5" midrange next to alpine 3.5" full range. Infinity is the way to go if you plan on amplifying them, which eliminates the need for messing with resistors.

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it says 3.5 ohm, so running that with the front door speaker which mine is 4 ohms...that's going to drop it under 2 ohm. My amp is only 2 ohm stable.

 

[WilliamS]

I mean the resistors so the headunit would send a signal to the amp? if u juts cut the factory wires n run the high level to the amp, don't u need some resistors for the headunit to send signal?

On my 8.4N non alpine this wasnt needed for the radio to amp signal. Ran multiple amps and never had a signal issue.

The only resistors I needed is when adding a dash speaker and not amplifying them. This changes the ohm load to the 3.5 to keep it from drawing more power and sucking it from the 6x9 that is in the door. Once you amplify speakers its a different game.

 

[magician]

it says 3.5 ohm, so running that with the front door speaker which mine is 4 ohms...that's going to drop it under 2 ohm. My amp is only 2 ohm stable.

What size are the load resistors in the T-Harness you got from Netaudio?