Manifold bolts

[JB1]

You’ll need 16 M8-1.25x50 grade 8 bolts for the exhaust manifolds. Here is a link to some hardware and the gasket I used on mine.

Bolts:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KJBEQ3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UxpjCbQ7WMJTX

Gasket:
https://www.highhorseperformance.co...t_Exhaust_Manifold_Head_p/05038098aa-99aa.htm



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Thanks, did you machine your manifolds flat or check the flatness?

 

[Juvenator93]

Thanks, did you machine your manifolds flat or check the flatness?

Checked them and they were nice and flat. Just cleaned them up a bit with brake cleaner and a shop rag before installing with the new gaskets and hardware.


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[JB1]

Checked them and they were nice and flat. Just cleaned them up a bit with brake cleaner and a shop rag before installing with the new gaskets and hardware.


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One more question, do you think if we replaced the gasket and bolts before they leak and break it would prevent these issues in the future?.....preventative maintenance?

I dont weld and sure would like to prevent having broken bolts and a trip to the dealer

 

[Juvenator93]

One more question, do you think if we replaced the gasket and bolts before they leak and break it would prevent these issues in the future?.....preventative maintenance?

I dont weld and sure would like to prevent having broken bolts and a trip to the dealer

Definitely. I planned on doing mine at 50k but only made it to 46k before they broke lol. Better hardware and gaskets should hold up much better than what’s on there from the factory. Less than $100, and saves you a lot of headache! Extracting the broken bolts isn’t too fun!


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[GIJoe2010]

Any thoughts on if you could find Grade 8 (or 10) M8-1.25x50 serrated flange bolts?

One would think that it could “bite” into the manifold and create more grip/retention.

For reference:

 

[JB1]

Definitely. I planned on doing mine at 50k but only made it to 46k before they broke lol. Better hardware and gaskets should hold up much better than what’s on there from the factory. Less than $100, and saves you a lot of headache! Extracting the broken bolts isn’t too fun!


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Thanks, did you have any trouble getting the drivers side stock manifold off?
I read that with headers you have to cut the oil dipstick tube bracket and I really don’t want to do that if I don’t have too.

 

[Juvenator93]

Thanks, did you have any trouble getting the drivers side stock manifold off?
I read that with headers you have to cut the oil dipstick tube bracket and I really don’t want to do that if I don’t have too.

Getting the stocks off was pretty easy. Had plenty of room. The headers are more of a tight squeeze and the dipstick does need to be bend out of the way a bit, but not cut. Some have switch to braided dipstick tubes also. But for the stock manifolds it’s no problem


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[Fitz-0518]

Also, the other threads on this forum, this subject. Must torque the better replacement bolts carefully. Over torque and some have stripped out the threads in the aluminum head.

 

[JB1]

Also, the other threads on this forum, this subject. Must torque the better replacement bolts carefully. Over torque and some have stripped out the threads in the aluminum head.

Wonder what that appropriate torque is for a grade 8

 

[Fitz-0518]

JB I went back to the archives. So many to go through. Somewhere in there we have the torque specs from one of the tech members that specifically suggested the right torque for AMR or ATR bolts on the aluminum heads. Couldn't find it.

 

[GIJoe2010]

I think the Germans have the term you’re looking for in terms of torque values on manifold bolts:

“Gootentite”

 

[JB1]

JB I went back to the archives. So many to go through. Somewhere in there we have the torque specs from one of the tech members that specifically suggested the right torque for AMR or ATR bolts on the aluminum heads. Couldn't find it.

Thanks, if you find it please post it here, I sure would appreciate it

 

[Wild one]

Wonder what that appropriate torque is for a grade 8

Torque spec's usually doesn't change much when using a Grade 8 bolt in aluminiun.The bolt stretching to the breaking point isn't usually the problem when going into aluminium,pulling the threads is usually the limiting factor,which means if you're using a torque wrench,the factory torque specs should apply.

 

[huntergreen]

Torque spec's usually doesn't change much when using a Grade 8 bolt in aluminiun.The bolt stretching to the breaking point isn't usually the problem when going into aluminium,pulling the threads is usually the limiting factor,which means if you're using a torque wrench,the factory torque specs should apply.

Thanks for this, good info.

 

[Fitz-0518]

JB from the archives. Stock manifold is showing 17-18lb on the the manifold bolts and 11lb on the heat shield. For the Shorty's, I think Nick would be the answer.

 

[JB1]

JB from the archives. Stock manifold is showing 17-18lb on the the manifold bolts and 11lb on the heat shield. For the Shorty's, I think Nick would be the answer.

Thanks

 

[JB1]

You’ll need 16 M8-1.25x50 grade 8 bolts for the exhaust manifolds. Here is a link to some hardware and the gasket I used on mine.

Bolts:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KJBEQ3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UxpjCbQ7WMJTX

Gasket:
https://www.highhorseperformance.co...t_Exhaust_Manifold_Head_p/05038098aa-99aa.htm



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What about the studs for the heat shields?

 

[Juvenator93]

What about the studs for the heat shields?

I bent the [emoji90] outta them taking them off, so didn’t put them back on



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[JB1]

Lol ok, wonder if those can be had in grade 8

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

I used ARP grade 8 bolts when i did my headers. Also used the best gaskets made...copper. They create the best seal, and are reusable. Similar in price as to the 6.1 remflex gaskets but better.
I also used copper collector gaskets.