My 2018 6.4L Hemi 66RFE P0871 code "limp mode" fix

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17_America_76

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2019
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Hey guys, new here. I just did a valve body and solenoid swap on my 2018 Ram 2500HD 6.4L with the 66RFE transmission at 88,*** miles. I will post links to the things I purchased at the very end. Last Sunday, 2/22/25, on the way back from the store my truck went into 4th gear "limp mode" while doing about a 45 to 55 speed up. I noticed the truck did a strange hard shift went I bought it (around 57,*** miles) once in a blue moon, but never thought much of it. I got the P0871 error code when it happened this last time, which I did a ton of research into and came up with a valve body and/or solenoid issue.

Without getting into the real nitty gritty stuff, I will give a rough timeline of my solution for anyone out there that has this problem and would like to take the route I did. What research I did led me to replace both the valve body and solenoid without pin pointing which of the two items was the actual cause. I figured just because if you are going to replace one, it's a safe bet to upgrade and replace the other too. I went with the RevMax Billet Aluminum valve body with a new solenoid included. Since the truck's transmission fluid and filters had never been changed, I did go to a dealership and get a new sump filter, transmission filter, two 5 quart jugs and some Mopar RTV for the pan. I did the work in about 3 hours total, I did not use any lifts as the truck is tall enough, I had enough room to wiggle around underneath even being 6'4 and 270lbs. After I let the RTV set and cure for around 4 hours to ease my mind (I was told by a dealership tech and others that I did not need to let it cure at all), I filled the fluid up and started into the relearn process. I used the AlphaOBD app on my phone, which was a $49.99 purchase. Along with an OBDLink MX+ to pair to, a $139.95 purchase. 2018+ chrysler/dodge/ram's need a security gate bypass cable too, which I found out after I was trying to relearn the transmission, I picked one up for $15.99 that worked just fine.

After installing the bypass and syncing my MX+ to the AlphaOBD app, the relearn was a piece of cake. The process is rather simple once Bluetooth is connected, you choose your Make and Model, select Engine and choose your engine from the list of 10 or so options. Once selected you make sure to connect, which the app will show "connection status: (your vehicle name or engine)". I read my fault code and cleared it because I had read that the relearn will not complete if you have codes active in the ECU, you do that in the CHECK engine tab on the bottom right side of the app. After reading and clearing the codes you then select the tab with the car with an open hood (Active Diagnostics) and scroll through a long list and search for "Quicklearn RFE". The Quicklearn RFE option asks that you set your parking brake and hold your brake pedal down the entire time. It will have you shift into OD (Drive) and select OK, then shift into Neutral and select OK. It will then cycle the transmission and prompt you go into OD one more time, and then into Park. The relearn is then done and you get a completed screen.

After the relearn I drove around 35+ miles (25-30 is recommended from what I had read online) on back roads and in town doing some errands, just doing normal driving for the computer to adjust to the relearn. Don't just jam it on the highway because you can damage the new parts you just replaced. So far I have had no issues over the last 2 days driving, I even took the interstate this morning coming home from work with no issues. My 5th and 6th gears worked just the way they should. I will come back in a few weeks to a month and give an update on how the truck is doing for reference. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions, I will answer to the best of my ability.

ITEMS PURCHASED:
 
Last edited:

24gearhead

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I'm relieved to hear everything worked out well for you. I'm currently facing a similar situation and could really use some advice. My scanner is showing P0734 and P0871 codes, and I'm concerned about investing $1,700 in a Rev Max valve body with solenoid pack, installing it myself, and then discovering that the transmission may still need to be rebuilt or replaced entirely.
I've stopped driving my truck to prevent further damage, but I'm feeling stuck and unsure of the best path forward. If anyone has experience with these codes or has dealt with similar issues, your insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions or guidance.
 

buckeyexx

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I'm relieved to hear everything worked out well for you. I'm currently facing a similar situation and could really use some advice. My scanner is showing P0734 and P0871 codes, and I'm concerned about investing $1,700 in a Rev Max valve body with solenoid pack, installing it myself, and then discovering that the transmission may still need to be rebuilt or replaced entirely.
I've stopped driving my truck to prevent further damage, but I'm feeling stuck and unsure of the best path forward. If anyone has experience with these codes or has dealt with similar issues, your insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions or guidance.
No need to get a revmax. Although revmax is good but if you can find a sonnax reman with solenoid pack already installed go with that. Last I checked rock auto had one for around 5 or 550. The sonnax has been upgraded with components that fail in the valvebody.
 

NewBlackDak

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I'm not convinced the sonnax reman won't eventually have the same problem. The RevMax should be solid for the remainder of the truck's life.
 

buckeyexx

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I'm not convinced the sonnax reman won't eventually have the same problem. The RevMax should be solid for the remainder of the truck's life.
Why would it have the same problem if the parts that are an issue are addressed with upgraded components? The pistons are aluminum from sonnax vs plastic from oem. Also the accumulator plate is thicker with extra reinforcement screws plus some other things I can’t think of. To each their own but I wouldn’t and didn’t hesitate to use it.
 

NewBlackDak

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Why would it have the same problem if the parts that are an issue are addressed with upgraded components? The pistons are aluminum from sonnax vs plastic from oem. Also the accumulator plate is thicker with extra reinforcement screws plus some other things I can’t think of. To each their own but I wouldn’t and didn’t hesitate to use it.
Because it doesn’t address the problem of the channel plate being too thin and warping.
 

buckeyexx

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Not trying to sell sonnax here but just want to get the correct info out there for anybody looking. Also not saying the others aren’t great but much much more expensive.
According to the website it is a new thicker separator plate with seals

 

NewBlackDak

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Not trying to sell sonnax here but just want to get the correct info out there for anybody looking. Also not saying the others aren’t great but much much more expensive.
According to the website it is a new thicker separator plate with seals

I’m not brand loyal, and I’m all for saving money where it makes sense. I also think Sonnax is a quality company.
However, the below is an excerpt from that page. They take material from a plate that is already to thin, and prone to warping.
“The channel casting has been resurfaced to SAE recommended flatness and surface finish. The seasoned casting warpage is now eliminated, removing crossleaks and manufacturing burrs that resulted in clutch distress and shift complaints. A new separator plate is also installed, along with gaskets, to seal the critical surfaces between the valve body and channel casting.”
 

buckeyexx

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What is weird is that the one I put a link to doesn’t say “double thick plate” but another one from sonnax does say it. Go figure. Either way I understand what you’re saying with the plates. This link talks about the the thicker plate.

 

olyelr

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Hey guys, new here. I just did a valve body and solenoid swap on my 2018 Ram 2500HD 6.4L with the 66RFE transmission at 88,*** miles. I will post links to the things I purchased at the very end. Last Sunday, 2/22/25, on the way back from the store my truck went into 4th gear "limp mode" while doing about a 45 to 55 speed up. I noticed the truck did a strange hard shift went I bought it (around 57,*** miles) once in a blue moon, but never thought much of it. I got the P0871 error code when it happened this last time, which I did a ton of research into and came up with a valve body and/or solenoid issue.

Without getting into the real nitty gritty stuff, I will give a rough timeline of my solution for anyone out there that has this problem and would like to take the route I did. What research I did led me to replace both the valve body and solenoid without pin pointing which of the two items was the actual cause. I figured just because if you are going to replace one, it's a safe bet to upgrade and replace the other too. I went with the RevMax Billet Aluminum valve body with a new solenoid included. Since the truck's transmission fluid and filters had never been changed, I did go to a dealership and get a new sump filter, transmission filter, two 5 quart jugs and some Mopar RTV for the pan. I did the work in about 3 hours total, I did not use any lifts as the truck is tall enough, I had enough room to wiggle around underneath even being 6'4 and 270lbs. After I let the RTV set and cure for around 4 hours to ease my mind (I was told by a dealership tech and others that I did not need to let it cure at all), I filled the fluid up and started into the relearn process. I used the AlphaOBD app on my phone, which was a $49.99 purchase. Along with an OBDLink MX+ to pair to, a $139.95 purchase. 2018+ chrysler/dodge/ram's need a security gate bypass cable too, which I found out after I was trying to relearn the transmission, I picked one up for $15.99 that worked just fine.

After installing the bypass and syncing my MX+ to the AlphaOBD app, the relearn was a piece of cake. The process is rather simple once Bluetooth is connected, you choose your Make and Model, select Engine and choose your engine from the list of 10 or so options. Once selected you make sure to connect, which the app will show "connection status: (your vehicle name or engine)". I read my fault code and cleared it because I had read that the relearn will not complete if you have codes active in the ECU, you do that in the CHECK engine tab on the bottom right side of the app. After reading and clearing the codes you then select the tab with the car with an open hood (Active Diagnostics) and scroll through a long list and search for "Quicklearn RFE". The Quicklearn RFE option asks that you set your parking brake and hold your brake pedal down the entire time. It will have you shift into OD (Drive) and select OK, then shift into Neutral and select OK. It will then cycle the transmission and prompt you go into OD one more time, and then into Park. The relearn is then done and you get a completed screen.

After the relearn I drove around 35+ miles (25-30 is recommended from what I had read online) on back roads and in town doing some errands, just doing normal driving for the computer to adjust to the relearn. Don't just jam it on the highway because you can damage the new parts you just replaced. So far I have had no issues over the last 2 days driving, I even took the interstate this morning coming home from work with no issues. My 5th and 6th gears worked just the way they should. I will come back in a few weeks to a month and give an update on how the truck is doing for reference. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions, I will answer to the best of my ability.

ITEMS PURCHASED:
Thanks for posting this !
 

NewBlackDak

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What is weird is that the one I put a link to doesn’t say “double thick plate” but another one from sonnax does say it. Go figure. Either way I understand what you’re saying with the plates. This link talks about the the thicker plate.

I do see that about the separator plates now. I just don’t think it address the main issue of heat warping that too thin cast channel plate. My thought is if I’m getting in there, and there is no metal in the pan then I want to beef that thing up.
 

buckeyexx

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I do see that about the separator plates now. I just don’t think it address the main issue of heat warping that too thin cast channel plate. My thought is if I’m getting in there, and there is no metal in the pan then I want to beef that thing up.
I get what you’re saying. Good point.
 
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17_America_76

17_America_76

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Hey guys, I am back. Took me awhile to actually remember to post, but I also wanted a good amount of time of driving before I gave any sort of update. That update being.. my solution above solved my problem 100%. I have put about 4,000 more miles down in the truck on a mix of backroads, highways and interstates. I pretty much word for word wrote my procedure down, but I would be glad to help out if anyone has any questions.
 

ginokaan

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Hey guys, new here. I just did a valve body and solenoid swap on my 2018 Ram 2500HD 6.4L with the 66RFE transmission at 88,*** miles. I will post links to the things I purchased at the very end. Last Sunday, 2/22/25, on the way back from the store my truck went into 4th gear "limp mode" while doing about a 45 to 55 speed up. I noticed the truck did a strange hard shift went I bought it (around 57,*** miles) once in a blue moon, but never thought much of it. I got the P0871 error code when it happened this last time, which I did a ton of research into and came up with a valve body and/or solenoid issue.

Without getting into the real nitty gritty stuff, I will give a rough timeline of my solution for anyone out there that has this problem and would like to take the route I did. What research I did led me to replace both the valve body and solenoid without pin pointing which of the two items was the actual cause. I figured just because if you are going to replace one, it's a safe bet to upgrade and replace the other too. I went with the RevMax Billet Aluminum valve body with a new solenoid included. Since the truck's transmission fluid and filters had never been changed, I did go to a dealership and get a new sump filter, transmission filter, two 5 quart jugs and some Mopar RTV for the pan. I did the work in about 3 hours total, I did not use any lifts as the truck is tall enough, I had enough room to wiggle around underneath even being 6'4 and 270lbs. After I let the RTV set and cure for around 4 hours to ease my mind (I was told by a dealership tech and others that I did not need to let it cure at all), I filled the fluid up and started into the relearn process. I used the AlphaOBD app on my phone, which was a $49.99 purchase. Along with an OBDLink MX+ to pair to, a $139.95 purchase. 2018+ chrysler/dodge/ram's need a security gate bypass cable too, which I found out after I was trying to relearn the transmission, I picked one up for $15.99 that worked just fine.

After installing the bypass and syncing my MX+ to the AlphaOBD app, the relearn was a piece of cake. The process is rather simple once Bluetooth is connected, you choose your Make and Model, select Engine and choose your engine from the list of 10 or so options. Once selected you make sure to connect, which the app will show "connection status: (your vehicle name or engine)". I read my fault code and cleared it because I had read that the relearn will not complete if you have codes active in the ECU, you do that in the CHECK engine tab on the bottom right side of the app. After reading and clearing the codes you then select the tab with the car with an open hood (Active Diagnostics) and scroll through a long list and search for "Quicklearn RFE". The Quicklearn RFE option asks that you set your parking brake and hold your brake pedal down the entire time. It will have you shift into OD (Drive) and select OK, then shift into Neutral and select OK. It will then cycle the transmission and prompt you go into OD one more time, and then into Park. The relearn is then done and you get a completed screen.

After the relearn I drove around 35+ miles (25-30 is recommended from what I had read online) on back roads and in town doing some errands, just doing normal driving for the computer to adjust to the relearn. Don't just jam it on the highway because you can damage the new parts you just replaced. So far I have had no issues over the last 2 days driving, I even took the interstate this morning coming home from work with no issues. My 5th and 6th gears worked just the way they should. I will come back in a few weeks to a month and give an update on how the truck is doing for reference. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions, I will answer to the best of my ability.

ITEMS PURCHASED:
Alfa OBD not working with Ram completely when you replaced tranny engine electrical or electronic parts and if you’re car in limp mode only will release Witech 2.0 and flushing and reinstall again after relearning for part or parts
I learned this one %100 because I went many times to dealership and paid always minimum $1000 I never leave from dealerships.
 
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