Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

[BurtShaver]

I took the coil off what I believe to be cylinder 2? Does the left bank (drivers side) Include cylinders 1,3,5,7? It was a little tough getting the resistor out of this coil 2 and when I did a fairly large amount of this green crude sifted out, the end of the resistor that was inside the coil is gone, maybe it’s logged in the coil or maybe it disintegrated? But it’s not part of the resistor anymore. Is there anything to clean in the coil once the resistor is removed? Am I correct in thinking this coil is done just based on the corrosion in it? I mean I believe it could possibly still work but the corrosion in it, is crazy? Oddly I think this is cylinder 2 and it was cylinders 3,7,8 that threw the misfire code ( not my scanner or me scanning it)

 

[Wild one]

View attachment 555207View attachment 555208View attachment 555209
I took the coil off what I believe to be cylinder 2? Does the left bank (drivers side) Include cylinders 1,3,5,7? It was a little tough getting the resistor out of this coil 2 and when I did a fairly large amount of this green crude sifted out, the end of the resistor that was inside the coil is gone, maybe it’s logged in the coil or maybe it disintegrated? But it’s not part of the resistor anymore. Is there anything to clean in the coil once the resistor is removed? Am I correct in thinking this coil is done just based on the corrosion in it? I mean I believe it could possibly still work but the corrosion in it, is crazy? Oddly I think this is cylinder 2 and it was cylinders 3,7,8 that threw the misfire code ( not my scanner or me scanning it)

Take a small pick and you should be able to get the rest of the resistor out,then use the dremel brush i posted the link to.Between some scratching with a sharp pick and wire wheeling you should be able to get the screw head cleaned up and the coil will be back to almost new again,you might want to order all new boots from rock auto as they come with new resistors and springs. With a bit of work your coils are rebuildable. I've upgraded a few sets of coils using the older coil boots that don't employ the resistor,which from my digging around is only there for am radio reception.The coil boots for a 2013 Chyrsler 300 with the 5.7 use longer springs and don't employ the resistors,i don't think the resistors came into use until 2014,before that the coils used longer springs and no resistors.Once they started using the resistors is when corrosion became a bigger factor,before that the coils would still corrode,but not to the extent they do with the resistors in place.
By no stretch would i write those coils off,an hour of scratching and wire wheeling will bring them back,and is far cheaper then buying new OEM coils.Whatever you do,don't buy any ignition/electrical parts from Amazon or Ebay,it might say Mopar on the box,and seem to come from a legit seller,but there's a good chance it'll be a chinese knock-off look a like.Stick with either the dealer or a legit place like Rock Auto to buy your ignition or electrical components from.

 

[BurtShaver]

Take a small pick and you should be able to get the rest of the resistor out,then use the dremel brush i posted the link to.Between some scratching with a sharp pick and wire wheeling you should be able to get the screw head cleaned up and the coil will be back to almost new again,you might want to order all new boots from rock auto as they come with new resistors and springs. With a bit of work your coils are rebuildable. I've upgraded a few sets of coils using the older coil boots that don't employ the resistor,which from my digging around is only there for am radio reception.The coil boots for a 2013 Chyrsler 300 with the 5.7 use longer springs and don't employ the resistors,i don't think the resistors came into use until 2014,before that the coils used longer springs and no resistors.Once they started using the resistors is when corrosion became a bigger factor,before that the coils would still corrode,but not to the extent they do with the resistors in place.
By no stretch would i write those coils off,an hour of scratching and wire wheeling will bring them back,and is far cheaper then buying new OEM coils.Whatever you do,don't buy any ignition/electrical parts from Amazon or Ebay,it might say Mopar on the box,and seem to come from a legit seller,but there's a good chance it'll be a chinese knock-off look a like.Stick with either the dealer or a legit place like Rock Auto to buy your ignition or electrical components from.

Thank you, thank you, I will scratch away tomorrow, I won’t be able to do a full cleaning until I order that dremel attachment, I will have a look tomorrow and see what i have for my cheap rotary tool, what’s your take on this coil from cylinder 2 being so badly corroded and not showing up as a misfire on the fellow’s reader? His scanner showed misfire on 3,7,8

 

[Wild one]

View attachment 555207View attachment 555208View attachment 555209
I took the coil off what I believe to be cylinder 2? Does the left bank (drivers side) Include cylinders 1,3,5,7? It was a little tough getting the resistor out of this coil 2 and when I did a fairly large amount of this green crude sifted out, the end of the resistor that was inside the coil is gone, maybe it’s logged in the coil or maybe it disintegrated? But it’s not part of the resistor anymore. Is there anything to clean in the coil once the resistor is removed? Am I correct in thinking this coil is done just based on the corrosion in it? I mean I believe it could possibly still work but the corrosion in it, is crazy? Oddly I think this is cylinder 2 and it was cylinders 3,7,8 that threw the misfire code ( not my scanner or me scanning it)

I'd stick with either the NGK or Denso boots.Ignore the GM thing,as they also fit the Hemi's to.

2015 RAM 2500 6.4L V8 Spark Plug / Ignition Coil Boot | Shop Now at RockAuto

Ignition Parts and More for Your 2015 RAM 2500 at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

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These boots come with longer springs and don't use the resistors,if you wanted to get rid of the resistors

2013 CHRYSLER 300 5.7L V8 Spark Plug / Ignition Coil Boot | Shop Now at RockAuto

Ignition Parts and More for Your 2013 CHRYSLER 300 at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[Wild one]

Thank you, thank you, I will scratch away tomorrow, I won’t be able to do a full cleaning until I order that dremel attachment, I will have a look tomorrow and see what i have for my cheap rotary tool, what’s your take on this coil from cylinder 2 being so badly corroded and not showing up as a misfire on the fellow’s reader? His scanner showed misfire on 3,7,8

Makes me think all your coils need a touch of cleaning,and if it's still firing through that corrosion,there's nothing wrong with the coil itself,that a bit of cleaning and new boots won't fix. I just did my buddies 2016 Scat Pack Challenger a few weeks ago,the car only has 18,000 kms/roughly 12,000 miles on it,and his coils were showing a fair bit of corrosion,even at that low of milege,enough he was surprised as hell,and now he says he'll be taking the coils off every winter while the cars parked and cleaning them the way i showed him how to clean them.The resistors in his were crudded right up and the car has no miles to speak of,which is making me think the resistors are an issue and are a factor in creating the corrosion.

 

[HEMIMANN]

I just checked since it was bothering me I couldn't remember where it was. It's under the foam in the front under the engine cover. Undo the sensor that goes in the cutout of the foam, undo the one hose and remove the foam. I only lifted the foam up on the picture I just took but you can kind of see the top of it. The part where you grab and give it the quarter twist to remove it.

Well, Ill be damned - I assumed "buried" meant "inaccessible". By "front" of the engine do you mean radiator end or firewall end?

Did you notice any performance differences? Probably not. How dirty was it? Clogged? I'm @ 60k, might as well change it now. Looks like a remote plumb job to add a catch can.

 

[BurtShaver]

Probably a good idea to change the spark plugs? I don’t think they have ever been changed and I’m at roughly 100500 miles. Took a look in the owners manual to see what plugs it takes and it say verbatim “We recommend you use Mopar Spark Plugs” Is there a plug you would recommend? Or should I buy them from Mopar? Would you happen to know what I should gap them at? because I don’t think it’s going to tell me I’m this owners manual.I FEEL BAD, I ASK A LOT OF YOU GUYS. If I had a shop/service manual it would tell me, where is a safe place e to get a shop manual?

 

[White six four]

Well, Ill be damned - I assumed "buried" meant "inaccessible". By "front" of the engine do you mean radiator end or firewall end?

Did you notice any performance differences? Probably not. How dirty was it? Clogged? I'm @ 60k, might as well change it now. Looks like a remote plumb job to add a catch can.

Radiator side of the engine. Not really as far as noticeable difference in anything. The old one still "rattled" but I already had the oem one on hand from rock auto.

This thread really makes me really want to take apart my coils and see how bad they are. Thanks for the great cleaning tips @Wild one looks like I have another project to do soon. Interested to see how much better your truck runs after the coils are clean.

If your plugs haven't been changed I would. Supposed to be a 100k maintenance item. I'd have to check my notes when I did mine but I think I went with the ngk iridium. They come pre gapped but aways check them just to be safe. Rockauto.com might be cheaper then the dealership.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Yep - I never waited until 100,000 miles to change platinum-coated spark plugs....the electrodes already looked worn north of 50,000 miles.

Iridium-coated spark plugs I'd change south of 100,000 miles, same reason. Plus the longer they're left in the aluminum cylinder heads, the harder they'll be to loosen after that many more thermal cycles between the aluminum head threads and the steel plug threads.

 

[BurtShaver]

Yep - I never waited until 100,000 miles to change platinum-coated spark plugs....the electrodes already looked worn north of 50,000 miles.

Iridium-coated spark plugs I'd change south of 100,000 miles, same reason. Plus the longer they're left in the aluminum cylinder heads, the harder they'll be to loosen after that many more thermal cycles between the aluminum head threads and the steel plug threads.

Oh, how I wish you hadn’t mentioned how hard the plugs would be to loosen, that’s how this all started, went to look at an ATV, guy asked how the Ram treated me, I said good. Left there to grab a tire off marketplace, that guy asked me about my truck as well, I said good. Left there and brake down 50 feet up the road.

 

[BurtShaver]

I see on Rock Auto under the Iridium section plugs starting at 3.97 for Auto Lite up to 11.81 for NGK 96779, and then 7 options in between with 3 of those being Denso and another NGK 4469 at 8.24 each? You guys think middle of the road NGK 4469 Iridium in the 8.24 price or go for the NGK 96779 Iridium for 11.81 which are the most expensive in RA?

 

[White six four]

I believe I went with the 4469's.

For the reasons @HEMIMANN said I changed mine around 70k, I got the truck with 64k. Just rolled over 137k so when I get to cleaning my coils and changing the boots I might as well do the plugs at the same time.

 

[BurtShaver]

That’s what I will go with too, just have to figure out what boots I’m going to order and I think I’m going to order new plugs for both the kids cars while I’m at it. Make sure to let us know how much corrosion on your coils if any, I’m interested to know. Thanks @White six four

 

[BurtShaver]

I see NGK and AC Delco boots at Rock Auto, pretty much the same price. Is one better than the other? Should I order 16 of them? The boots I have taken off so far feel soft and in good shape, I will need at least 1 and could order 8 in case I run into a few more badly corroded resistors or just order 16 and be done?

 

[HEMIMANN]

I go with NGK stuff. They haven't sold out to the lowest bidder unlike USA companies.

Yet.

 

[Wild one]

I see NGK and AC Delco boots at Rock Auto, pretty much the same price. Is one better than the other? Should I order 16 of them? The boots I have taken off so far feel soft and in good shape, I will need at least 1 and could order 8 in case I run into a few more badly corroded resistors or just order 16 and be done?

Order all 16,if ones that bad,good chance the rest are also a bit sketchy.Either boot will be okay,for all we know,they might be the same boot,just with a differant name.
Pull one plug and order the same plug off rock auto.
Lots of guys seem to be promoting NGK's Ruthenium plugs,i'm not really a fan of them,the only advantage to them is NGK makes more money off each plug,as ruthenium is cheaper to produce then iridium,there is no life expectancy advantage or performance advantage to ruthenium compared to iridium plugs,and the jury is still out on how stable they are under a high load situation,when the ignition system and plugs are working harder to make a consistent spark
Personally i'd stick with OEM iridium plugs.
Don't forget your 6.4 uses a differant plug then the 5.7 does.The 5.7 uses a flat seat plug with a washer,the 6.4 uses a tapered seat plug with no washer

​

 

[BurtShaver]

I’ve ordered NGK plugs 4469 and NGK boots 58969 from RA, also ordered the dremel brushes from amazon to clean coil towers. I’m going to need to re fill the oil, my question is, do I need to be using the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil? Only place I can find the Pennzoil is amazon and Napa for 17.98 a quart x 7 quarts 125.86. I see Castrol edge 0w40 advertised on sale now at Canadian tire 39.89 for 5 quarts, 39.89/5= 7.98 per quart x 7 = 55.85 for an oil change versus 125.86 for a Pennzoil oil change. I see the Pennzoil is API rated SN and the Castrol Edge European formula is rated API SN plus? Whatever the plus means, not sure. What do you guys think?

 

[White six four]

https://a.co/d/9ZBWRw1

Before I switched to redline 5w30 I would always get the 6 pack linked above. I believe others on here have used Castrol edge and mobile 1 0w40s without any problems.

 

[Wild one]

I’ve ordered NGK plugs 4469 and NGK boots 58969 from RA, also ordered the dremel brushes from amazon to clean coil towers. I’m going to need to re fill the oil, my question is, do I need to be using the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil? Only place I can find the Pennzoil is amazon and Napa for 17.98 a quart x 7 quarts 125.86. I see Castrol edge 0w40 advertised on sale now at Canadian tire 39.89 for 5 quarts, 39.89/5= 7.98 per quart x 7 = 55.85 for an oil change versus 125.86 for a Pennzoil oil change. I see the Pennzoil is API rated SN and the Castrol Edge European formula is rated API SN plus? Whatever the plus means, not sure. What do you guys think?

Order a dozen bottles of Lubegards engine oil protectant from these guys,as i've never found anybody else in Canada that carries it. Blue bottle 4th one down. I'd phone them,instead of online ordering.

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[cmcelroy]

@BurtShaver
I had a similar issue on my 2017 Power Wagon. I was getting a misfire on the #8 cylinder and thought I had a lifter failure. Mine turned out to be a cut power wire for the #8 cylinder coil that shorted to another wire that got cut. There was a heater hose clamp rubbing the wire bundle and it finely cut through. A local shop doing the diagnosis repaired it and moved the clamp into a different orientation. Knock on wood its been running good since. Just something else to check.

This short also took out the diodes in the computer for cylinder 8. Had to have the computer replaced as well.