Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

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BurtShaver

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Easier to get the initial weld build-up to stick to a washer,then you weld the nut to the washer.Usually the heat from welding is all you need,as once the studs broke there's no tension on the threads and they usually back out pretty easy.
If there's any part of the stud sticking out of the head you can try grabbing onto it with a set of vise grips, i've removed a few studs that broke off above the surface with just a pair of vise grips,if it's broke flush or below proud of the head,then you need to weld a washer/nut to it
There’s plenty of stud still sticking out, I was going to weld a bolt head to it as I figured I would never get it out with vice grips
 
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Well, lol. All the bolts came out of the exhaust manifold with the broken stud like butter, The other manifold that had no broken bolts, 3 bolts broke off on it, one of them under the surface of the head. That manifold is loose and swivels on one of the broken bolts that happens to be in the center of the manifold but it will not pull off, I’ve swivelled it back and forth, pulled in it, tapped in it with rubber mallet for over an hour, just refuses to come off. lol, I’m feeling pretty defeated with this job, lol.
 
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I can’t for the life of me figure out why this exhaust manifold won’t come off, it moves back and forth swiveling on the center broken bolt, I can rattle it up and down on each end about 1/8 but just won’t come off.
 

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I can’t for the life of me figure out why this exhaust manifold won’t come off, it moves back and forth swiveling on the center broken bolt, I can rattle it up and down on each end about 1/8 but just won’t come off.

Which side?

On 4x4 trucks, the drivers side is a pain in the ass because of the dipstick tube.

The dipstick tube is hard to remove because there's no access to the screw head without lifting the engine. Most of us just bend the dipstick tube a little, just enough to get the manifold out.


If the broken bolt is protruding and you can't pull the manifold away from the head far enough to clear the broken bolt, because the dipstick tube is in the way, you may have to lift the engine a couple inches and remove the dipstick tube.
 
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Which side. On 4x4 trucks, the drivers side is a pain in the ass because of the dipstick tube.

The dipstick tube is hard to remove because there's no access to the screw head without lifting the engine. Most of us just bend the dipstick tube a little, just enough to get the manifold out.
Hi Ken, Thanks for the reply, I have the heads out. I just finally got the exhaust manifold off a minute ago. Next step is to remove the 3 broken studs. One is below the surface of the head, was thinking of trying an easy out for the first time for it
 
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IMG_3137.jpeg
Ok, I’m baffled. I can turn this broken stud out with my baby finger, how in the He double hockey sticks did this stud break when trying to get the manifold off?
 
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IMG_3139.jpegBoth of the broken studs that were above head surface level turned out without even clamping the vice grips on, seems really odd that they broke while trying to take the manifold off with them turning out so easy. All that’s left now is to remove the one broken below deck height. I’m open to suggestions but I was going to order a good punch, some good drill bits and a set of easy outs? I seen a video of a guy who drilled the bolt, then hammered in a torx bit but…
 

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View attachment 559699Both of the broken studs that were above head surface level turned out without even clamping the vice grips on, seems really odd that they broke while trying to take the manifold off with them turning out so easy. All that’s left now is to remove the one broken below deck height. I’m open to suggestions but I was going to order a good punch, some good drill bits and a set of easy outs? I seen a video of a guy who drilled the bolt, then hammered in a torx bit but…
I've done it each of the methods you mentioned, and also buy filling the hole with mig weld untill full, the welding a nut to the welded up fill.

If you drill and ez-out, be careful. You wouldn't be the first whose missed and run the drill into a coolant passage.
 
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I've done it each of the methods you mentioned, and also buy filling the hole with mig weld untill full, the welding a nut to the welded up fill.

If you drill and ez-out, be careful. You wouldn't be the first whose missed and run the drill into a coolant passage.
Thanks for the heads up Ken, that would be the last thing I need to happen. I’ve never used an easy out and filling the hole with mug weld scares the hell out of me. I have been trying to learn to work on vehicles and small engines over the past 4 years but I don’t want to make a big mistake in this job as it’s an expensive truck for me anyways. Maybe I should wait to try my first easy out on some cheap project that I don’t have much into? Think I would be better off taking the head to the machine shop and letting them take it out? I have a feeling it’s going to turn out super easy, all the other ones have. I will watch some you tube video’s and see how comfortable I am trying it.
 

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Thanks for the heads up Ken, that would be the last thing I need to happen. I’ve never used an easy out and filling the hole with mug weld scares the hell out of me. I have been trying to learn to work on vehicles and small engines over the past 4 years but I don’t want to make a big mistake in this job as it’s an expensive truck for me anyways. Maybe I should wait to try my first easy out on some cheap project that I don’t have much into? Think I would be better off taking the head to the machine shop and letting them take it out? I have a feeling it’s going to turn out super easy, all the other ones have. I will watch some you tube video’s and see how comfortable I am trying it.

If it's pretty deep, use a piece of copper tube to protect the threads.

Something like this

 
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If it's pretty deep, use a piece of copper tube to protect the threads.

Something like this

I will have a look at your link, no it’s not deep, maybe 1/8” below the surface
 
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I will have a look at your link, no it’s not deep, maybe 1/8” below the surface

If it's only 1/8" deep, you shouldn't have any trouble whichever method you use. If you drill, use a center punch to create a divot in the center. Spend as much time as you need to git a deep divot, so the drill cant slip off center. Drill strait.


If you weld, then its a snap. Hold a nut over and against the hole with needle nose pliers and shoot the wire strait down against the broken bolt until the nut is welded to the broken bolt.

Aluminum wicks away heat so quickly that the steel won't stick to the aluminum.
 

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Use the welder trick Burt,it's way to easy to screw up the head by using an easy-out,if you drill to deep or slightly off center,the water jackets are right there,and if you drill into the water jacket,the head is basically junk.I'd weld a flat washer in place first,then weld a nut to the washer.It's easier to get the migs wire into the hole with a washer.
The reason they spin out by hand after the bolt head is broke off,is because all the tension on the bolt threads is released as soon as the clamping force provided by the bolts head is removed.Same as using your fingers to wind a bolt into place until it makes contact with the surface you're tightening it to
 
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That’s a good video you sent me Ken, Thank you. This video I have linked is pretty good as well. On this video he says that the weld won’t stick to the aluminum. I’m starting to think that this welding method might be safer than the easy out method? But I want to be sure what I’m doing before I give it a go if I do. When he’s building the weld up, it looks like he is barely above the surface with the weld buildup when he sets the nut in place, then almost just continues to build it up with the nut in place, maybe once it’s up a bit on the nut try and hit more towards the inner part of the nut while tacking.
 

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That’s a good video you sent me Ken, Thank you. This video I have linked is pretty good as well. On this video he says that the weld won’t stick to the aluminum. I’m starting to think that this welding method might be safer than the easy out method? But I want to be sure what I’m doing before I give it a go if I do. When he’s building the weld up, it looks like he is barely above the surface with the weld buildup when he sets the nut in place, then almost just continues to build it up with the nut in place, maybe once it’s up a bit on the nut try and hit more towards the inner part of the nut while tacking.
He misses one step,always wire brush and clean up the built up weld,before proceeding to weld a nut on top of the built up weld
 

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That’s a good video you sent me Ken, Thank you. This video I have linked is pretty good as well. On this video he says that the weld won’t stick to the aluminum. I’m starting to think that this welding method might be safer than the easy out method? But I want to be sure what I’m doing before I give it a go if I do. When he’s building the weld up, it looks like he is barely above the surface with the weld buildup when he sets the nut in place, then almost just continues to build it up with the nut in place, maybe once it’s up a bit on the nut try and hit more towards the inner part of the nut while tacking.

Yea, it's pretty much that easy. On a head that has been removed.



When you do it on a head that is still installed, it's more fun.


And if you really want some challenging fun, do it on a Durango 5.7 Hemi! I did the manifold bolts on my wifes Durango Citadel, and if they break again im going to tolerate it as long as I can, then remove the engine to fix them. Doing the studs on a Ram is like a wet dream compared to the Durango.
 

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Yea, it's pretty much that easy. On a head that has been removed.



When you do it on a head that is still installed, it's more fun.


And if you really want some challenging fun, do it on a Durango 5.7 Hemi! I did the manifold bolts on my wifes Durango Citadel, and if they break again im going to tolerate it as long as I can, then remove the engine to fix them. Doing the studs on a Ram is like a wet dream compared to the Durango.
The cars make a Durango look easy,lol. You have to remove the heads to even get a mig gun at the manifold bolts :rolleyes:
 
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Thanks guys for all the help. I may call the machine shop to see what they would charge to take this stud out but I also may try and take it out by welding, just depends on how comfortable I feel after asking these questions. Sorry for beating this to death. If the puddle reaches the threads will it melt the threads, first of all I should mention that I’m using flux core, I don’t have gas. Can I do this with flux core? Do I basically build it up with tack welds? Trying not to let the puddle reach the sides? Clean up the tack before tacking again? Or just keep a puddle and keep adding to it.
 
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