Payload help, Your thoughts?

[wrench78]

Ok, So 1500 has 1600 payload. With 789lbs for hitch/trailer tongue, 100lbs for tools, and 400lbs for wife and I, leaves me with about 311lbs left of payload. Everything else would be in the trailer minus maybe some snacks for the trip. Am I pushing too hard on the payload or should I be good?

 

[rzr6-4]

You're overthinking it, you'll be fine.

1500s are all we had on the farm for a long time, and they were consistently loaded to 2500 payloads and up.

 

[2003F350]

No, he's NOT overthinking it. Today's 1500's aren't built like the 1500s of years past - that way of thinking gets people in trouble. I wish people would stop with the 'oh I used to do it for years back in the day!' because we AREN'T 'back in the day' anymore. Oh and a 1500 on the farm isn't out on the road where a mis-step could take out several other people.

In years past, half-ton trucks were built basically the same as 3/4 or 1-ton trucks, just with softer springs and a little lighter axles. Today, EVERYTHING about them is lighter, chasing down mileage and safety requirements. The frames, axles, springs, EVERYTHING is built lighter. It is ALWAYS something to consider.

That said, OP, there are a LOT of threads discussing this, and one of the first things you're going to be told is that you don't give us NEARLY enough information to really help you. The best way to know where you're at? Go hit up a CAT scale and get your REAL weights, loaded like you're going to go for a trip.

What kind of trailer is it? You seem to know EXACTLY what the hitch weight is, is this an RV with an advertised hitch weight? If so I'll guarantee it's wrong, BEFORE you put any weight in it. Then you have to factor in that any weight added to the trailer, a portion of it typically affects the hitch weight (making it heavier). RV companies tend to advertise their hitch 'dry weight,' but it isn't even really a dry weight because they take that weight BEFORE any options are added to the trailer. The REAL dry weight of the hitch is likely to be considerably heavier - some guys have purchased trailers with a dry hitch weight advertised around 700 lbs and the real weight was over 800 - that's a big difference when it comes to hitch weights.

Now, all that said, is your truck going to detonate the minute you pull out on the road? No. Are you going to have issues? Probably not but I can't say. Are you probably going to have your hands full being close to your payload? Oh absolutely, and anyone who tells you otherwise either doesn't know what they're talking about, are flat-out lying, or have YEARS of experience and have learned to anticipate when things could go sideways.

 

[CamperMike]

2003f350 asks a great question on that hitch weight... it's it dry or loaded? If that's the brochure weight on an rv you may be 1000lbs or more with the trailer loaded to camp. Still may be able to be done within your payload but you would have less to work with than you think.

 

[nlambert182]

You seem to understand the basic concept of payload on the truck but unless we know the trailer weights, it's irrelevant.

If it's an RV, you need to plan for at least 15% of the gross weight of the trailer, not the dry. If it's a flatbed cargo trailer you can sometimes shift the weight enough to potentially keep the tongue weight to ~10%. Another consideration for an RV is the frontal area of the trailer and wind resistance. They are large boxes and wind can quickly impact how it tows.

You may be perfectly fine but you may not. If it's an RV, you are almost guaranteed (based on your available payload listed above) to be overloaded unless it's the smallest of pop-ups, etc... Using it overloaded on the farm is not even remotely the same as taking it out on the open road and the truck will perform differently in those two scenarios. What kind of trailer is it?

 

[Fake-Account27]

What trailer are you planning on towing?

 

[62Blazer]

Based on the numbers you state in the original post. In my opinion there is really no "pushing it too hard" level when you are talking about being below the published numbers. Manufacturers usually have a pretty large safety factor built into the numbers. Meaning if they say the truck has a 1,600 payload it should be able to easily handle that weight. They know that many people will overload the truck and not pay attention to the sticker. It's also not like the truck will be perfectly fine at 1,600 lbs. and then magically exploded and kill a bus full of nuns at 1,607 lbs. of payload.
Yes, you should pay attention to the numbers to get in the ballpark. Obviously don't want to get a trailer with 3,000 lbs. tongue load when you have a 1500 truck. And definitely yes, you need to see how the setup tows in the real world. Even if under the spec weight if the load and trailer is setup way wrong it won't tow nice.

 

[rzr6-4]

No, he's NOT overthinking it. Today's 1500's aren't built like the 1500s of years past - that way of thinking gets people in trouble. I wish people would stop with the 'oh I used to do it for years back in the day!' because we AREN'T 'back in the day' anymore. Oh and a 1500 on the farm isn't out on the road where a mis-step could take out several other people.

In years past, half-ton trucks were built basically the same as 3/4 or 1-ton trucks, just with softer springs and a little lighter axles. Today, EVERYTHING about them is lighter, chasing down mileage and safety requirements. The frames, axles, springs, EVERYTHING is built lighter. It is ALWAYS something to consider.

Are 1500s the working man's truck of yester-year? Perhaps not, but the world is full of more lawyers and people out to make a quick buck than ever before. OEM safety factors are huge, so if the numbers the OP is giving us are correct and he is under max payload as he stated, as long as the trailer is balanced correctly then there will be no problem.

The last 20-30 years of auto engineering has improved towing, a lot. The 15 year and one generation between my sierra and my brother in laws makes a noticeable difference even with small loads. 1500s of today pull better than the 1500s of the 90s, people just seem to think the opposite because 30 years ago people knew what they are doing and knew how to get by with what they had (low and slow). Nowadays people try to put 15k lb behind a 1500 at 75mph and then blame "poor engineering" when the brakes give out.

 

[nlambert182]

I missed a lot with the original post... too early in the morning. IF the trailer tongue weight is based on max gross weight of the trailer (if an RV) it sounds like you're below capacity. Looks like it's either a 5,260 lb gross weight (at 15% tongue weight) or 7,890 (at 10% tongue weight). If it's the latter and it's an RV, your tongue weight number is off. Assuming the gross weight is 7800 lbs your real tongue weight will be closer to 1,183 lbs and not 789. All just speculation until you can tell us what you're towing.

 

[chopperman1]

I'd start with double checking your payload on the door frame sticker, not off what a website says. 1600 seems high for a Laramie. My Rebel was only 980#'s.

 

[wrench78]

Thanks for everyone who has chimed in. Let's see if I can clear up some info. The tongue weight is the weight of my 26ft camper fully loaded with water and cargo. (usually don't travel with full water) My camper dry weight is around 5600lbs. Fully loaded around 6800lbs. My WDH weighs in about 89lbs. I've been looking at the 2025 Ram 1500 with a 1600lbs payload weight. Max tow is 10,100lbs. Here is a pic of my camper with my current 2017 Laramie. I'm doing fine with what I have right now, but we only tow 5 or 6 weekends a year with it within a 3hr drive. But in a few years, we will be looking at stretching our legs out and going on more longer trips. I've looked at the 2500's but don't know if I can swallow the 80k for a 2500 truck. But the extra 1k payload would be awesome. I'm just preplanning my future purchase and want to make sure I am crossing my T's and dotting my I's. The other huge issue is my truck is a daily driver to and from work 14miles each way.

 

[wrench78]

What trailer are you planning on towing?

it's a Grand Design Imagine XLS 22MLE. 26ft long

 

[Dan Topp]

Mine is a 19 1500 tradesman and the springs were a joke. I don’t have any negative experiences from upgrading the springs (1 ton or +70 general)and tires (e range Michelin) On the scale one trip had a passenger.

 

[mtofell]

Great info so far and I agree with the idea that you need to figure out what the actual tongue weight is when the trailer is loaded the way you'll use it.

One concept in RVs that gets thrown around a lot, that I disagree with, is to pair the truck to the trailer's GVWR. Just because the trailer could be loaded to a given weight doesn't mean you are going to use it that way. I once had a 6000# dry travel trailer with a 10,800# GVWR. There was absolutely no reason to have a truck capable of pulling/carrying that weight since with my usage teh trailer only weighed about 7500#.

To be fair, my trailer was a bit of an oddball that just had ridiculously oversized axles and most RVs have more real-world payloads... or, even bordering on the low end as the manufacturers are always trying to trim weight and money.

 

[Randy Grant]

Well, looks like you've heard everything from "YOUR GOING TO KILL A BUSLOAD OF NUNS", to "let'er rip, you'll be fine". Now to figure out where you are between the two ends.
IF, and I say again IF, all your number are on target, and, IF you are not a wet behind the ear newbee, the numbers look like you are within spec. But, like said before, with a proper setup on the hitch, and like seasoned travelers, keep the speeds down to within reason, and, drive well ahead of the hood, baring the red-light-runner, you "SHOULD" be good. But like others have said, run it over the scale just to be double sure.
Another thing to think about is something many of us have done, go to a stiffer sway bar. Many of us, me included, use the Hellwig bar, but others have come out no, so I think there are other options. All it does is get rid of the excess body roll, and helps plant the rear end a little more. It is not intended to add load capacity, so don't think it does.
So, happy travels, and be safe.

 

[mtofell]

It is not intended to add load capacity, so don't think it does.

This is an important concept with towing.... all the mods - springs, sway bars, air bags, hitches, etc., etc. don't ever increase payload or pulling but they do make the whole towing experience near the upper limits of a given vehicle better and arguably more safe.

 

[Burla]

I push my 2010 to exactly 2k pounds come pellet time, 50 bags x 40 pounds. I cant imagine going any heavier without some upgrades. I mean that gives me a serious Cali lean. And I don't have very good control of the truck, luckily it is about 10 miles city roads from tractor store to my home, but I wouldn't feel that comfortable on the freeway with that either. One time I went heavier by accident, a landscape co quoted some weight on some dirt, but was dry weight, but the dirt was wet. Do not know the weight, but after it was in the truck they had to take it back out. I could tell by the lean it was close, but I could not get out of the parking lot. For my taste 2k is it.

 

[Dan Topp]

I push my 2010 to exactly 2k pounds come pellet time, 50 bags x 40 pounds. I cant imagine going any heavier without some upgrades. I mean that gives me a serious Cali lean. And I don't have very good control of the truck, luckily it is about 10 miles city roads from tractor store to my home, but I wouldn't feel that comfortable on the freeway with that either. One time I went heavier by accident, a landscape co quoted some weight on some dirt, but was dry weight, but the dirt was wet. Do not know the weight, but after it was in the truck they had to take it back out. I could tell by the lean it was close, but I could not get out of the parking lot. For my taste 2k is it.

And up go the headlights

 

[2003F350]

Thanks for everyone who has chimed in. Let's see if I can clear up some info. The tongue weight is the weight of my 26ft camper fully loaded with water and cargo. (usually don't travel with full water) My camper dry weight is around 5600lbs. Fully loaded around 6800lbs. My WDH weighs in about 89lbs. I've been looking at the 2025 Ram 1500 with a 1600lbs payload weight. Max tow is 10,100lbs. Here is a pic of my camper with my current 2017 Laramie. I'm doing fine with what I have right now, but we only tow 5 or 6 weekends a year with it within a 3hr drive. But in a few years, we will be looking at stretching our legs out and going on more longer trips. I've looked at the 2500's but don't know if I can swallow the 80k for a 2500 truck. But the extra 1k payload would be awesome. I'm just preplanning my future purchase and want to make sure I am crossing my T's and dotting my I's. The other huge issue is my truck is a daily driver to and from work 14miles each way.View attachment 562034

Good to know you're not a newbie at this! And always great to pre-plan what you're going to do in the future and get yourself ready for it now.

And I do understand having a tough time swallowing the price tag of a 2500 - BUT on the flip side it opens you up to the Cummins if you decide you want something a bit bigger/heavier in the future, which also gets you engine braking. And like you said, if you stay gasser you get a LOT more payload. And it's ultimately up to you - if you don't get a bigger trailer, you likely wouldn't need it. My ex-neighbor has pulled a trailer about that size all over the country with a V6 2wd Chevy and had very few issues that he's told me about. I have a friend who, on the flip side, has a trailer about that size and didn't like how his Z71 pulled it, so went and bought an F250 with the 7.3 gasser. He's got more truck than he'll ever need.

If you stay where you're at, I'd say you're going to be just fine. If you do decide to get a bigger trailer, you're going to have to keep an eye on your numbers, but I think it would still be doable.

 

[nlambert182]

Thanks for everyone who has chimed in. Let's see if I can clear up some info. The tongue weight is the weight of my 26ft camper fully loaded with water and cargo. (usually don't travel with full water) My camper dry weight is around 5600lbs. Fully loaded around 6800lbs. My WDH weighs in about 89lbs. I've been looking at the 2025 Ram 1500 with a 1600lbs payload weight. Max tow is 10,100lbs. Here is a pic of my camper with my current 2017 Laramie. I'm doing fine with what I have right now, but we only tow 5 or 6 weekends a year with it within a 3hr drive. But in a few years, we will be looking at stretching our legs out and going on more longer trips. I've looked at the 2500's but don't know if I can swallow the 80k for a 2500 truck. But the extra 1k payload would be awesome. I'm just preplanning my future purchase and want to make sure I am crossing my T's and dotting my I's. The other huge issue is my truck is a daily driver to and from work 14miles each way.View attachment 562034

If the 1600 lb payload is truly what the one you're eyeballing has, and If you don't plan on going to a larger trailer, based on the numbers you provided, it looks like you're just fine. A 2500 (gasser or diesel) does make for a much easier tow and gives you some room to grow in the future, but I don't think you need it at all for your current setup.

If you're eyeballing a 2500 because you want one and your only concern is daily driver duty, don't worry about it. I've been daily driving 2500/3500s for 2 decades. You get used to it really quickly and it's no more difficult to park and maneuver once you've done it for a short time.

Ignore max tow ratings... you'll never reach it with an RV before you go over payload and/or rear axle ratings. Focus on payload and axle. You can slightly exceed payload if you had to, but try not to ever exceed rear axle ratings.

I will disagree with the statement about not using the gross weight of the trailer to determine tongue weight. This has been discussed ad nauseum for decades. My take on it is that IF the trailer is capable of being loaded to that weight, PLAN to load it to that weight. Because stuff adds up quickly and before you know it, you've hit that max target and are now overloaded on the truck. It may just be enough to slightly break payload or it could be enough to exceed the rear axle rating. If you don't need the buffer you don't have to use it but it's there if you do. If you don't have it, well....