Poll Oil Viscosity - Hemi 5.7l

[theclassic]

Add any negative or positive effects. MDS, ect.... If anyone is wondering, I know very little about oil.

 

[NOV87]

5w30 Quaker state Full synthetic every 5k miles. Engine runs a lot smoother vs 5w30.
No effect to MDS, as far as I can tell.

 

[kurek]

. If anyone is wondering, I know very little about oil.

Well the easiest way to know even less about it is to read a few thousand oil threads on forums.

 

[zogg]

I’m glad to see this poll because I’m a tad confused

My new-to-me 2019 hemi Classic is due for an oil change

I’ve been using Royal Purple for a few years and have a bunch of 5w20 and 5w30 in the garage. I’m not sure which way to go, though I’m leaning toward the 5w30. I’ll be using a Royal purple filter.

My son lost the cam and lifters in his 2016 Hemi at 124,000 miles. He always had the dealer change oil and they used 5w20 conventional bulk oil.

So, I’m thinking that synthetic 5w30 may be a better choice…am I wrong??

 

[Burla]

I’m glad to see this poll because I’m a tad confused

My new-to-me 2019 hemi Classic is due for an oil change

I’ve been using Royal Purple for a few years and have a bunch of 5w20 and 5w30 in the garage. I’m not sure which way to go, though I’m leaning toward the 5w30. I’ll be using a Royal purple filter.

My son lost the cam and lifters in his 2016 Hemi at 124,000 miles. He always had the dealer change oil and they used 5w20 conventional bulk oil.

So, I’m thinking that synthetic 5w30 may be a better choice…am I wrong??

There are two considerations on the protection of metal in the terms of coefficient of friction, viscosity or additives. Now, thanks to the API all over the counter oils have moves close to each other as they regulate oils in api starburst oils. So if you use an api oil, the only move to get more protection is to move up in viscosity. Now, you have an oil pump, which is an equalizer, as in either way the argument on either side of the 20 or 30 weight would be a small point.

There is a scientific way to prove it, you need to do uoa's and find out for yourself, see what wears more 20 or 30 weight oil, or see if they are close to the same. Every engine is different, looking at what happened in some other guys engine wont be helpful. If you know what to look for you can see if there are conditions in an engine that is being hard on oil, usually noted by the shedding of viscosity and/or heavier wear then normal. If you don't want to do all that, just run what you feel like running, what your gut tells you.

The other consideration is going outside the api and using a high additive oil to protect the metal, there are a couple threads that deals with this strategy thread 1 and thread 2.

At the risk of upsetting ram members who dislike facts, here is the consideration from an engineer who builds engines. I'll just have to risk more flogging from guys who hate oil threads in order to give this information to newer members, sorry about that. About 40%-45% of the forum uses 30 weight with no issue, seams like everyone else runs manu recommendation, a very few run 40 weight or higher. If you live in cold spot, it really pays to run 0w30 if your choice is 30 weights, but 0w20 is only marginally better in the cold then 5w20, and in many cases it is literally the same exact oil they just label differently. peace

 

[Treburkulosis]

5w20 Castrol edge in mine for 80k miles. Every engine is different so just because this one worked for one person doesnt mean yours is going to like it. I would really read into the pros and cons of weights and oils as well as filters. I found what worked for mine after coming out of mobil 1 and having the tick. Lubeguard is also a really good thing to add to any oil that you run. Best of luck!

 

[zogg]

I get the idea that Steve Walsh is recommending a 5w30 over the5w20. Am I correct???

 

[Burla]

Additives not viscosity is the crux of that article. Either you have a condition that causes excess wear or you don't. If you do have such a condition, those spots are going to benefit from aw/ep additives, not oil. Obviously the oil is the carrier and serves many other functions, but in those spots the sacrificial zinc plate and the moly plate are going to be what protects that metal. If you don't have an area that causes excess wear, then it really doesnt matter anyhow? If you want meaningful protection, go additives is what Steve is saying.

 

[1999 White C5 Coupe]

There are two considerations on the protection of metal in the terms of coefficient of friction, viscosity or additives. Now, thanks to the API all over the counter oils have moves close to each other as they regulate oils in api starburst oils. So if you use an api oil, the only move to get more protection is to move up in viscosity. Now, you have an oil pump, which is an equalizer, as in either way the argument on either side of the 20 or 30 weight would be a small point.

There is a scientific way to prove it, you need to do uoa's and find out for yourself, see what wears more 20 or 30 weight oil, or see if they are close to the same. Every engine is different, looking at what happened in some other guys engine wont be helpful. If you know what to look for you can see if there are conditions in an engine that is being hard on oil, usually noted by the shedding of viscosity and/or heavier wear then normal. If you don't want to do all that, just run what you feel like running, what your gut tells you.

The other consideration is going outside the api and using a high additive oil to protect the metal, there are a couple threads that deals with this strategy thread 1 and thread 2.

At the risk of upsetting ram members who dislike facts, here is the consideration from an engineer who builds engines. I'll just have to risk more flogging from guys who hate oil threads in order to give this information to newer members, sorry about that. About 40%-45% of the forum uses 30 weight with no issue, seams like everyone else runs manu recommendation, a very few run 40 weight or higher. If you live in cold spot, it really pays to run 0w30 if your choice is 30 weights, but 0w20 is only marginally better in the cold then 5w20, and in many cases it is literally the same exact oil they just label differently. peace

View attachment 477325

View attachment 477326

Could you provide proof regarding your statement that in many cases, 0W20 and 5W20 oil is “literally the exact same oil” that is just labeled differently?

 

[Burla]

0w20 pennzoil 5w20 pennzoil

same pour point - same operating viscosity- as you can see the two are so close there is literally minute difference in cold performance, even less difference in warm performance. if I can I will find one that is literally just relabeled, it is 100% legal and can happen if the 5w20 has base oils that allows it to get the cold performance range of 0w20.

The bottom line is actually two lines, 0w20 and 5w20.

 

[HEMIMANN]

@Burla - you want only 5.7L Hemi responses, correct?

 

[theclassic]

@Burla - you want only 5.7L Hemi responses, correct?

I would say so, Does the 6.4l take a different oil thats recommended by the manufacture? The oil recommended for the 5.7l is 5w20

 

[HEMIMANN]

I would say so, Does the 6.4l take a different oil thats recommended by the manufacture? The oil recommended for the 5.7l is 5w20

Yes. 0W-40

 

[MontanaHandyman]

0w20 pennzoil 5w20 pennzoil

same pour point - same operating viscosity- as you can see the two are so close there is literally minute difference in cold performance, even less difference in warm performance. if I can I will find one that is literally just relabeled, it is 100% legal and can happen if the 5w20 has base oils that allows it to get the cold performance range of 0w20.

The bottom line is actually two lines, 0w20 and 5w20.

View attachment 477353

So the viscosidad decreases as the temperatura increases...I think I got it!

 

[theclassic]

Yes. 0W-40

Yeah I don't know the differences between the motors. So lets keep just for the 5.7l. thanks though

 

[Wahrsuul]

I used 5w20 when I first got the truck with 118K on it. I was advised that with that mileage, I "might" want to try a heavier oil. Several suggestions of mixing 5w20 and 5w30. So, for the last few years, I've been using PUP 5w30 and RP filters. I have an exhaust tick I haven't gotten fixed yet, but I don't think I hear any other tick. Truck runs fine and seems to get "decent" mileage - 15-16 avarage hand calculated.

 

[pastorjeep]

My 2011 had always had synthetic 5w-30 every 5k or so and at 143k miles two lifter ate through the cam lobes. When I got past 120k I thought all the talk of Hemi failure was because people were not maintaining their vehicles...wrong! I have built engines for 30 years and found what the machinist found. The surface of every ramp on the cam showed a lifting of the polish/plating with two lifter eating through. I thought the exact thing the engine builder did, namely stiction in the oil. The film strength of the oil needs to be higher in my engine. So after rebuilding the top end I now run 15w-40 synthetic in summer and 5w-30 in winter.

 

[Guy lIPSKY]

I am coming up on 5K miles and want to get the oil changed the Ram Garage says wait till 10 K can i get it done at my Garage or will they gave me warranty problems , on my 2016 I always used 5 w 30

 

[Daw14]

Change it ,it is your truck . Dealer can’t fault you for changing early .

 

[Burla]

My 2011 had always had synthetic 5w-30 every 5k or so and at 143k miles two lifter ate through the cam lobes. When I got past 120k I thought all the talk of Hemi failure was because people were not maintaining their vehicles...wrong! I have built engines for 30 years and found what the machinist found. The surface of every ramp on the cam showed a lifting of the polish/plating with two lifter eating through. I thought the exact thing the engine builder did, namely stiction in the oil. The film strength of the oil needs to be higher in my engine. So after rebuilding the top end I now run 15w-40 synthetic in summer and 5w-30 in winter.

Thanks for the post and presenting your experience.