PPE pan and zf Fluid change last question.

[stenerson]

Okay. Got my PPE pan, new screws, bought a new gasket, fits nicely. Bought a chemical sprayer as transfer pump. tools ready. Plan to do this tomorrow. From videos I've seen I notice the stock gaskets seem to have a metal sleeve. Do I transfer those over to new gasket/pan?

 

[Wild one]

Okay. Got my PPE pan, new screws, bought a new gasket, fits nicely. Bought a chemical sprayer as transfer pump. tools ready. Plan to do this tomorrow. From videos I've seen I notice the stock gaskets seem to have a metal sleeve. Do I transfer those over to new gasket/pan?

Most guys do. Have you got some tall jackstands as you need the rear of the truck in the air a fair height to level the transmission. 3 ton stands usually aren't tall enough.

 

[EdGs]

If you're talking about the metal sleeves for the screws in the old pan, I would transfer those to the PPE. They will keep the gasket positioned.

Remember to crack the fill plug loose BEFORE draining the trans. Those fill plugs were all tightened by Hercules, afaik.....lol.

Good luck, may your service go smoothly.

 

[stenerson]

Most guys do. Have you got some tall jackstands as you need the rear of the truck in the air a fair height to level the transmission. 3 ton stands usually aren't tall enough.

Yep, I bought new 6 ton jack stands a couple weeks ago.

 

[stenerson]

If you're talking about the metal sleeves for the screws in the old pan, I would transfer those to the PPE. They will keep the gasket positioned.

Remember to ctack the fill plug loose BEFORE draining the trans. Those fill plugs were all tightened by Hercules, afaik.....lol.

Good luck, may your service go smoothly.

Thank you sir! Gasket seems pretty thin in certain spots. It's fel-pro brand. Not sure if the mopar is the same. Will see.

 

[Wild one]

Yep, I bought new 6 ton jack stands a couple weeks ago.

Just to add to Ed's advice keep a bucket of water handy so you can soak some rags in it,and lay them over the exhaust,helps keep the cursing and swearing down when you're doing the final check
The 122F is the max checking temp,ideally you'd like to do the final check with the transmission between 100F and 105F,so the colder the transmission is when you start,the better off you'll be.

 

[stenerson]

Just to add to Ed's advice keep a bucket of water handy so you can soak some rags in it,and lay them over the exhaust,helps keep the cursing and swearing down when you're doing the final check
The 122F is the max checking temp,ideally you'd like to do the final check with the transmission between 100F and 105F,so the colder the transmission is when you start,the better off you'll be.

I got the 3.6 vvt so the exhaust not as much of a problem. I waited a few weeks to do this in cooler weather, (days starting off with a hard frost), figured that would make it easier. I printed out the instructions to have them handy.

 

[EdGs]

Some have said that the sleeves are a lttle tight in the holes of the PPE pan, might wanth to have a small round file if needed.

A little snug is good for the sleeves, that way they wont fall out, as long as they do not get misshapen transferring them.

 

[Wild one]

I got the 3.6 vvt so the exhaust not as much of a problem. I waited a few weeks to do this in cooler weather, (days starting off with a hard frost), figured that would make it easier. I printed out the instructions to have them handy.

Good idea,it doesn't hurt to start the drain process the night before,and let it drain overnight,then do the pan/filter swap in the morning when it's cool.

 

[Atcer2018]

I installed a PPE pan on my 3.6 and transferred the metal sleeves from the OEM pan. They are a tight fit but very doable with a small block of wood and mallet for the stubborn ones. Follow WildOnes directions and it’s a fairly straightforward procedure. One more tip you may consider is chasing the threads on the pan rail. I live in the southern US and still had some corrosion that would impede the bolts when installing. You’ll see when you remove the old pan that the threads do not bottom out inside the pan rail, they go through it and are open to the atmosphere on the back side. Hope it all goes well for you.

 

[Wild one]

I installed a PPE pan on my 3.6 and transferred the metal sleeves from the OEM pan. They are a tight fit but very doable with a small block of wood and mallet for the stubborn ones. Follow WildOnes directions and it’s a fairly straightforward procedure. One more tip you may consider is chasing the threads on the pan rail. I live in the southern US and still had some corrosion that would impede the bolts when installing. You’ll see when you remove the old pan that the threads do not bottom out inside the pan rail, they go through it and are open to the atmosphere on the back side. Hope it all goes well for you.

That's a good idea about chasing the threads Atcer.

 

[MRFREEZE57]

Okay. Got my PPE pan, new screws, bought a new gasket, fits nicely. Bought a chemical sprayer as transfer pump. tools ready. Plan to do this tomorrow. From videos I've seen I notice the stock gaskets seem to have a metal sleeve. Do I transfer those over to new gasket/pan?

I used the metal sleeves, just had to ream a few of the holes in the PPE as they were very tight.

 

[Burla]

Good idea,it doesn't hurt to start the drain process the night before,and let it drain overnight,then do the pan/filter swap in the morning when it's cool.

So if you use gasket maker then two days with no truck? As they want you to wait overnight to fill. So use traditional gasket? I must admit, I do prefer the gasket maker, never had a leak with it but I have had gaskets leak.

 

[Wild one]

So if you use gasket maker then two days with no truck? As they want you to wait overnight to fill. So use traditional gasket? I must admit, I do prefer the gasket maker, never had a leak with it but I have had gaskets leak.

The pan uses an rubber style gasket,so they don't really need any help in the sealing department

 

[lAWROSA]

I had ram do mine. I bought them the pan and all. Cost me about $400 bucks... When I installed the bypass in the trans I saw and smelled the small bit of fluid that came out and it was awful.. Hence why I changed the pan with PPE, replicable filter, and fluid.

 

[SpaceRanger1]

I have a 2017 Rebel 302K on it.. Around 205K i replaced with a PPE pan. Used a new OEM gasket and have had leaks ever since..
Also, Where do I get the Thermostat Bypass from.. Getting ready to replace the Pan filter, Plugs as well.
Thank you for the help.??

 

[Wild one]

I have a 2017 Rebel 302K on it.. Around 205K i replaced with a PPE pan. Used a new OEM gasket and have had leaks ever since..
Also, Where do I get the Thermostat Bypass from.. Getting ready to replace the Pan filter, Plugs as well.
Thank you for the help.??

Unless you got a bad pan,the leaks are probably something you've done,as my PPE pan has been off/on about a 1/2 dozen times and i've never had any leak issues.Did you replace the o-ring gasket with a legit OEM gasket from your local dealer.Take a machinsts ruler and use it to check the pans flange for straightness
Hunt up @caulk04 as he'll give you a link to where you can buy his bypass

 

[caulk04]

Hola fellas!

Head on over to www.yourautohuckleberry.com to find the bypass and optional aluminum cap for your 8spd

 

[stenerson]

I have a 2017 Rebel 302K on it.. Around 205K i replaced with a PPE pan. Used a new OEM gasket and have had leaks ever since..
Also, Where do I get the Thermostat Bypass from.. Getting ready to replace the Pan filter, Plugs as well.
Thank you for the help.

I ordered a new aftermarket (fel-pro) gasket to use with my PPE. It's been several months, no leakage issues yet. Though to be honest the original gasket was in great shape, I'm confident it would have worked fine. I tightened by feel, was very gentle. Almost 4 months, so far so good.
I bought the thermostat bypass. Haven't installed yet, plan to do in spring.
Wow! You got 302K on your truck? Nice!