Price Quote for 4.56’s...

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popcenator

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I just realized this wasn't for a 1500. My apologies. Disregard what I said lol.

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COAinPaso

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Im also gathering parts for this and maybe someone can clarify this for me-I read somewhere that the gas trucks had different pinion bearing sizes than the diesel? Don't know whether it's true or not. Either way, can I assume that the correct size bearing is included in the above listed master kits?
 

reloaderguy

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Im also gathering parts for this and maybe someone can clarify this for me-I read somewhere that the gas trucks had different pinion bearing sizes than the diesel? Don't know whether it's true or not. Either way, can I assume that the correct size bearing is included in the above listed master kits?

'14+ Hemi trucks have the same axles as the diesels. In 2015 AAM started using larger pinion bearings but it's in gas and diesel trucks.
 
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RAM_Designs

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'14+ Hemi trucks have the same axles as the diesels. In 2015 AAM started using larger pinion bearings but it's in gas and diesel trucks.
We have basically the same truck, did you need a new carrier with the 5.13's?
 

reloaderguy

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We have basically the same truck, did you need a new carrier with the 5.13's?

No. I have AAM E-Lockers and started with OE 4.10's. I'm fairly certain 3.73 trucks don't need a new carrier either. Keep in mind 5.13 for the front require a ring gear spacer.
 

U&A

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Then i an so ******* confused as to why some people say you NEED to have the carrier changed and other dont. I am suspecting the the mechanic shop doing the installs are telling fibs to some of us for the extra money or if they don’t want to venture away from their only parts brand that doesn’t have it when they could simply use a different brand gear that has the ratio you want.

Im seriously done trying to figure this out and am going to have a heart to heart with my installer.

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reloaderguy

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Then i an so ******* confused as to why some people say you NEED to have the carrier changed and other dont. I am suspecting the the mechanic shop doing the installs are telling fibs to some of us for the extra money or if they don’t want to venture away from their only parts brand that doesn’t have it when they could simply use a different brand gear that has the ratio you want.

Im seriously done trying to figure this out and am going to have a heart to heart with my installer.

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There is someone on CF that swears he's done a dozen installs and there are multiple carrier sizes. However, he refused to provide part numbers and then disappeared. I changed the diff fluid in my truck last weekend, I know what is in it and what came out. There are no part numbers that I can find to support multiple carrier sizes and AAM lists the breakoff for the 9.25 as 3.42. Call Just Differentials and ask them.
 

bobbo7915

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people also keep posting information that has to do with the 1500 series trucks, not the 2500/3500.
 

14RAM4X4

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I emailed Just Diffs about their Nitro-Gear GPRAM2500-5.13 kit. I gave them my VIN and they said for my truck, I would NOT need a new carrier or ring gear spacer (unless I was going with an ARB or other aftermarket locker/carrier).

Now, they could be wrong... but that was the response I got just yesterday.

Currently getting quotes from local shops.
 

COAinPaso

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What year is your truck? A local shop told me they changed something in the front end on 18 and i will need a new carrier. But the rear would work .

More info on this- I just had my truck geared, it's an '18 6.4 4x4 and the shop used the oem carrier, but the ring and pinion for the front was actually a GM r&p. Sierra gear part number gm9.25-456.


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U&A

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Just got a price for 4.56’s front and rear, new front carrier and “necessary bearings and seals” with a 1 year warranty

$2100


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busterbrown

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Just got a price for 4.56’s front and rear, new front carrier and “necessary bearings and seals” with a 1 year warranty

$2100


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Which part of Michigan are you in? If in SE Michigan, I'd be interested finding out where your quote came from. Im interested in regearing too as I tow quite often.
 

U&A

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Which part of Michigan are you in? If in SE Michigan, I'd be interested finding out where your quote came from. Im interested in regearing too as I tow quite often.

Regarding my last post, I was going to use advantage driveline in jackson MI.

But after he gave me a price quote it ended up being he cannot find the gears made by AAM for my truck. He recommended motive gear. He said he uses them almost exclusively. .......and im not ok with motive..

I know some people like them (motive) and some people don’t, but what sealed the deal for me on saying NO to motive is calling a few different installers and all of them said they would not use motive.

I don’t really want to say too many bad things ( about advantage driveline) but I will say I am very disappointed in there customer service. and don’t trust them anymore. I will say they are VERY busy and that made it very hard to communicate and get solid answers. Like they had more work than time.

I contacted just differentials.com and they hooked me up with a guy just south of “the thumb” in midland Michigan.

He looked high and low for AAM gears for me. He said AAM Has not made them in quite a while but had a very short run and they were very expensive. He did find a set for the front of my truck ( i cloud find rear gears by AAM but not fronts for a 2016) but they were GM gears and they were a LOT more money. He also informed me that AAM is having ring and pinion gears made outside the U.S. now so that puts a dent in my “buy American parts” idea.

I have a scheduled install date in 3 weeks using nitro gears.

Ill PM you the installer.


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S0CAL

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Seemed like a pretty straight forward deal, price seems about right to me...I’m going to ask to provide my own gear oil since I want to use Redline oils everywhere.

Does anything seem off to you guys?


View attachment 137587
Yeah that labor looks right. $500/axle is what I paid, albeit Ram 1500. LSD install was included with gear swap charges (since they already had ring and pinion out).
 

reloaderguy

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Regarding my last post, I was going to use advantage driveline in jackson MI.

But after he gave me a price quote it ended up being he cannot find the gears made by AAM for my truck. He recommended motive gear. He said he uses them almost exclusively. .......and im not ok with motive..

I know some people like them (motive) and some people don’t, but what sealed the deal for me on saying NO to motive is calling a few different installers and all of them said they would not use motive.

I don’t really want to say too many bad things ( about advantage driveline) but I will say I am very disappointed in there customer service. and don’t trust them anymore. I will say they are VERY busy and that made it very hard to communicate and get solid answers. Like they had more work than time.

I contacted just differentials.com and they hooked me up with a guy just south of “the thumb” in midland Michigan.

He looked high and low for AAM gears for me. He said AAM Has not made them in quite a while but had a very short run and they were very expensive. He did find a set for the front of my truck ( i cloud find rear gears by AAM but not fronts for a 2016) but they were GM gears and they were a LOT more money. He also informed me that AAM is having ring and pinion gears made outside the U.S. now so that puts a dent in my “buy American parts” idea.

I have a scheduled install date in 3 weeks using nitro gears.

Ill PM you the installer.


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They're doing you a favor by not selling you 4.56s. I have AAM rears and Yukon fronts. Your front diff barely spins in 2wd so sound is not an issue. I'd run Yukons if you're having trouble finding AAM.
 

U&A

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They're doing you a favor by not selling you 4.56s. I have AAM rears and Yukon fronts. Your front diff barely spins in 2wd so sound is not an issue. I'd run Yukons if you're having trouble finding AAM.

What is wrong with 4.56’s and 35” tires?


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reloaderguy

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They're too high. You'd be happier with 4.88. The 6.4L should have come with 4.56 stock with the 34" tires. You couldn't possibly gear the truck too low because of the transmission gearing. I think most of the recommendations I've seen are incorrect about gearing selection. If you only ever plan on running 35" tires then 4.88 will be perfect.
 
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S0CAL

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here’s a graphic that has proven useful in the past.E3473090-687E-4046-B17B-FB913EFD1990.jpeg
 

U&A

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From my calculations in 5 th gear I will be running at 2600 rpm almost exactly, with 4.88’s and 35’s.

That is good In your opinion?

You have 5.13’s and 37’s right? What are your RPMs at 70 mph in 5th?

I question 5th because 6th is a lost cause. Way to high geared. And 5th and 4th is what i tow in mostly[emoji16]


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reloaderguy

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6th is usable, 2k RPM at 70mph. I never bothered to look at 5th at 70mph.
 
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